Arriving in Rome
Dora Jokkel
Arriving to Rome
Arriving in Rome Rome has two airports: Fiumicino/Leonardo da Vinci Airport, the bigger one and Ciampino, where Ryanair flies to. Both are located outside of Rome so you have to take a bus or a taxi to get to the center. Buses usually cost around 10 euros and they go to Termini. The taxi is quite expensive, it costs around €50-60 from Fiumicino to the center and €35-40 from Ciampino. Rome’s most important train station is Termini which is located close to the center and the airport bus stops are also located here. Hint: in case you are sitting next to the window on the plane, check out the Italian Alps that look very impressive from above the clouds.
Ottobrata Romana = Roman October Sunshine, warm days with 20 degrees but the leaves are getting their autumn colors and there are some rainy days that make you appreciate the sunshine even more. It is considered the most beautiful month in Rome.
2017
What is the best time for visiting Rome? Right now! Okay, if I have to be more practical: Rome has a Mediterranean climate which means pleasant weather most of the time. I visited Rome 3 times so far: In April when the nights were a bit chilly but during the day it felt like summer. In July, when it was extremely hot and the sun was very strong. Summer months are usually hot and humidity can be quite high. And then I arrived again at the end of August which was almost too hot, already at 9 am. August is officially the holiday month in Italy, meaning that many shops and restaurants are closed. The only advantage is that the city is emptier than usually. You won’t find many things open so just don’t visit Rome in August. The beginning of September can be very rainy. I experienced unexpectedly heavy rainfalls and got soaking wet many times. Otherwise it still feels like summer. Experts say that the best time to visit Rome is from April to May, and from October to mid-November. Experts don’t mention that ALL the tourists come during these months, so it is rather crowded. As I experienced, even November and December can be very sunny, the temperature is around 10-18 Celsius during the day but you need your lighter winter jacket for the evenings. Sun goes down around 4.30 pm in December. Rome is nice before Christmas with all the decoration and lights that are switched on from the 8th of December, after the Feast of Immaculate Conception, a religious holiday in Italy. 6
Dora Jokkel
Rome short visit
2017
Rome essentials for a 2-3 day visit I’ll be honest: 2-3 days are definitely not enough for Rome, especially if it is your very first time there. Even though the sights are quite close to each other, if you want to go inside buildings (e.g: Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museum, Villa Borghese, Forum Romanum, etc) you will need at least 4-5, intensely packed days. First, I will suggest you what not to miss when visiting Rome and than I will share a detailed 2-day program with you that I actually did with my visitors who have already been to Rome before. The program somewhat depends on the area where you are staying but these are the must-see sights for your first visit in the Eternal City.
Free entrance in Rome
Every first Sunday of the month you can enter the state museums for free. This includes the Colosseum, Castel Sant’Angelo and the Forum Romanum too. Sometimes you need to book in advance and pay 2 euros booking free (e.g.Museo Borghese). The last Sunday of the month means free entrance to the Vatican Museum too, but you cannot book in advance so you have to be very early. Otherwise the queueing up will take forever. Here you can find the official website of the free Sundays:
http://www.turismoroma.it/cosafare/domenica-al-museo-ingresso-gratuito-laprima-domenica-del-mese
1. Colosseum. Fortunately, it is more impressive from the outside, in case you are short in time, you can skip entering it. 2. Forum Romanum. That’s a hard one because you can check out the forum also from the outside but it is worth it to go inside and you need at least 2-3 hours for that. You can spare time with not attending a guided tour and reading the signs for yourself but it is still huge and you don’t want to miss the view from the Palatine Hill. To be honest, I only managed to visit this sight on my third trip to Rome and the city still amazed me even when I missed out the Forum. 3. Altare della Patria/Vittorio Emanuele Monument This huge white monument is one of my favorite sights in Rome. You can go to the top (it’s around 8 euros) or just to the middle, and the view is amazing from there. Next to the monument, there is the Church of Santa Maria d’Aracoeli with many steps leading up to it. Both the view and the church are worth climbing up.
Also, on certain holidays and on the International Day of Tourism (27th of September), most of the museums offer free entry.
4. Pantheon. From Piazza Venezia, where the Altare della Patria is located, you can continue your sightseeing tour on Via del Corso, the famous shopping street. At Via del Caravita you must turn left to reach the Pantheon. You don’t need to buy tickets for going inside and it is a rather quick visit.
Hint: on the 27th of September, the Vatican Museum is free AND you can book in advance, meaning that you skip the line and enter for free. This is what I did!
5. Piazza Navona. If you continue your walk from the Pantheon towards the river, you will quickly reach Piazza Navona with its famous fountains, Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers being the most famous one among them. 2
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Dora Jokkel
Rome short visit
What and where to eat: Short visit version
2017
Addresses Bar del Fico: Piazza del Fico 26
It’s really difficult to recommend places for eating around the famous sights because first, there are many tourist-traps, second, I don’t know your schedule and route plan, third, I don’t even know you and your meal preferences. But I will try to suggest a few places or areas that fit my sightseeing list. Near Colosseum: if you are near the Colosseum and have a few hours, go to Monti neighbourhood which is full of great restaurants and street-food options. On Via Urbana or Via del Boschetto you will find many places. For specific names, go to the Monti section (page 39) of this book. There are lot of panini and sandwich shops on Via del Corso and some of them are not that bad... There are many good places behind Piazza Navona, on Via di Tor Millina and Piazza del Fico. I tried Serafini alla Pace, besides typical Italian meals they also have nice salad options. There is a great bar for drinks, called Bar del Fico (7 euros for an Aperol spritz, 8-10 for other cocktails). Da Francesco* is said to be a great but expensive typical Roman restaurant.
Da Francesco: Piazza del Fico 29 Giolitti: Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40 Serafini alla Pace: Via Della Pace 25-26 Sant’ Eustachio: Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82 Osteria Margherita: Via delle Coppelle 34 Ciao Checca: Piazza di Firenze 25/26 Açaí & Friends: Via di Campo Marzio 69 Daruma Sushi: Piazza del Parlamento 37 La Prosciutteria: Via della Panetteria 34A Pane e Salame: Via Santa Maria in Via, 19
There are several nice places near the Pantheon. There is Giolitti, one of the best ice cream parlors in Rome. One of the most famous cafés of Rome is Sant’ Eustachio where many local politicians and famous stars drink their espresso. Try the Il gran caffé, their special, foamy espresso with thick crema. There is a trendy slow-food place called Ciao Checca, offering healthy but also typical dishes. Osteria Margherita offers great pasta, pizza, Roman dishes and wide range of big and tasty salad bowls. In case you crave healthy smoothies, salads or an acai bowl, try Açaí & Friends. If you want to have sushi near the Pantheon (God knows why you would have this idea but I’m happy to help), go to Daruma sushi. Around Trevi fountain, there is a place called La Prosciutteria where you can either have a sandwich or a plate of salami, prosciutto ham, cheese and some bread with a glass of wine for a really fair price. The plates are arriving on a big wooden board and can be shared among many people. Nearby there is a place with similar concept, called Pane e Salame, selling freshly made and huuuuge paninis for 5-6 euros and also offering the ham and cheese plates. 3
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Dora Jokkel
Foodie guide
2017
Foodie guide: What and where to eat in Rome? Italian cuisine is familiar to everyone and popular all over the world. You don’t have to deny that one of your main goals during visiting the Eternal City is to have several foodgasms (food orgasm) while eating the best and most authentic pizza, pasta and gelato. The city center and the areas around the main sights are full of restaurants, bars and cafés but to make sure you avoid the tourist trap places where only bad and expensive food is served, here is my guide for you! Pizza You think you know pizza well. You are educated enough to be aware that the real Italian pizza is thin and that Italians consider it as a sin to put pineapple or chicken on pizza. You also know that the most famous pizza is called Margherita and is made from three main ingredients which reflect the colors of the Italian flag: tomato, mozzarella and basil. You know that putting ketchup on your pizza is equal to punching someone in the face. With a chair. But there are some facts about pizza that you can only discover if you live in Italy for a while. First of all, there are typical versions of pizza, depending on the region you are visiting. In Rome you will encounter two types of pizza: the Roman style with very thin and crunchy crust or the Neapolitan which is thin and chewy and heavenly soft. Fortunately, you can choose, people don’t judge you. What can be surprising that Italians put olive oil on the top of the pizza, especially in the case of the Roman style. That would be fine but if you have cheese as topping, the dough can be too oily and it is not very beneficial for the taste. Not all places do this but expect that your pizza comes with some extra oil. Moreover, pizza is generally considered as street food, an ideal snack for take away and sold in square slices (al taglio) at many places. In most of the bakeries (forno), you will find pizza in the offer. There are certain chains specialized in selling pizza al taglio and their shops can be found all over the city, often close to main sights. Probably the most famous place for squared pizza is Bonci Pizzarium*, located close to the Vatican City. They also have a stand at Mercato Centrale, a very cool market-like food court at Termini. 4
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Dora Jokkel
Foodie guide
2017
Coffee Italian coffee is the best. No matter where you drink it, it will be a good one! An espresso costs around € 0,5 but there are more expensive, fancy places of course. When you want an espresso, say “un caffè, per favore!” as the world ‘espresso’ is not the name of the coffee in Italy but the way it is made (express). In bars and cafés, it is very common that you pay at the cashier desk first, get the receipt and then you can go to the counter to order, waving with your bill in your hand. Coffee costs double if you sit down at a table, the majority of Italians are standing at the bar. Italy is not the place where you are sipping your double-moccha-soycappuccino-caramel-toffee beverage while sitting in a cosy armchair for hours. Coffee is drank quickly, accompanied only by a cornetto (Italian croissant) or a small snack. Italians drink coffee several times a day: with their small breakfast (caffèlatte), in the morning (with cornetto), after lunch, for merenda (afternoon snack) and often after big dinners for better digestion. Many times you will see caffè d’orzo on the menu which is a caffeine-free version, made from barley. Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè One of the most famous cafés of Rome, located close to the Pantheon and frequented by politicians and celebrities. Truly Italian, as most of the people are standing at the bar. Their signature espresso (Il Gran Caffè) has a surprisingly thick and foamy cream (see on the picture on the left). Legends say it is due to the baking soda put into the water. The coffee machine is in the corner and the making process is hidden so we will never find out their secret. When you order at the bar, state in advance if you want sugar as they will put it into the cup before making the coffee. Their other famous beverages are: Il Gran Cappuccino, Il Moretto (espresso with milk foam and cocoa powder) and La Granitina (coffee with sugar, mush ice and whipped cream).
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Dora Jokkel
Foodie guide
2017
Roman dishes to try Roman cuisine –similarly to every other region in Italy- has its own traditional and characteristic dishes and snacks that can be found only here. Many of them are seasonal (e.g: figs or artichokes) so it’s worth it to check what is available during the time of your visit. Most of the following culinary highlights can be found in restaurants as starters or main courses and honestly, if the place has good reviews, these dishes should be made well, so I won’t recommend many specific restaurants. Moreover, if you manage to have aperitivo (which is usually offered between 5 pm and 8 pm), you will find these typical dishes in the selection. Artichokes On the menu look for the word ‘carciofi’, usually in the side dishes (contorni) or appetizers (antipasti) section. There are two ways to cook them: alla Romana (Roman style) when artichokes are stuffed with a mix of oil, garlic, lemon, parsley and mint and then they are braised until getting soft enough. Alla giudia (Jewish style) is when the artichoke is beaten until it opens up and looks like a flower, then seasoned with lemon juice, salt and pepper and deep fried in oil. They are crunchy and warm when eaten. The season is from February to May but you can find artichokes on the menu all year round. Fried zucchini flowers (Fiori di zucca) I highly recommend you to check out how they look like before preparation at a market place. And then try them in a restaurant. If you’re like me, you will be astonished how delicious food can be created from, well, from basically flowers. I have no idea how it is made but it contains cheese, anchovies and it is battered and deep fried. Sooooo delicious! Fried cod fillet (Filetti di baccalà fritti) A bit similar to fish & chips, it’s deep fried cod fillet. Enough said. Dar Filettaro* (Largo dei Librari, 88). Supplì By now, you probably realized how much Romans love fried food. Here comes another one! Supplì are small but very filling: fried risotto balls, stuffed with cheese or meat ragu or both. The name comes from the French word “surprise” and it refers to the feeling you get when you open up the warm risotto ball and discover the melted, soft cheese inside… Also, they are often called “supplì al telefono” because after opening, the warm cheese becomes long and stringy and it looks like the cord connecting a telephone to the hook (obviously, a bit old-school name, you will never understand if you were born into the smartphone era). Supplì can be found at many places as appetizer and there are also places specialized in making this Roman snack. Supplizio* (Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143), Il Suppli*(Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 137)
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Dora Jokkel
Parks
2017
Parks Parks play essential role in the daily life of Rome. There is no better place to enjoy the Mediterranean weather than in the green areas located in the urban environment: parks are great choices both for sitting in the sun or escaping from the heat when it gets unbearable in the city. Similar to many things in Rome, parks are also magical: they are peaceful oases with evergreen plants, palm trees and full of green parrots. Yes, parrots! Just like in the paradise you only dreamt about! Also, parks are full of Rome’s iconic stone pine trees (called pino) which look like lace umbrellas spreading over you in the blue sky. Wait, it still gets more magical! Most of the parks used to be the gardens of rich families’ houses, this is why they are called Villa something (villa is the building). This means that most of the time one or more fancy buildings can be found in the parks. Moreover, Romans had this thing with water and not only the city but also the parks are full of fountains. It is truly amazing how these green areas are used in Rome. They are always alive: locals come here for relaxing, reading, doing workout, running, having a picnic, go for a walk, have a break from the city life, meet friends or dates, study or just think about life. Or talk to girls who look like they are not from Rome. Seriously, this is not to be bragging, but every single time I sat down in a park for reading or studying, I ended up talking with people. Sometimes in Italian, even if my level was below conversational. Sometimes tourists started to talk to me and I always had the feeling this is because they are also under the magical effects of the park. The simple but indescribable beauty cannot be explained here, it has to be experienced!
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Dora Jokkel
Sunsets in Rome
2017
Spots for sunset watching Sunsets in Rome are amazing and fortunately there are several spots where you can enjoy a breathtaking view while watching the sun going down in the Eternal City. 1. Terrazza del Pincio My favorite spot in Rome, nothing can be compared to this view. Terrazza del Pincio is part of Villa Borghese and located just above Piazza del Popolo. You can reach the terrace from three different ways: taking the steps from the piazza; coming from the direction of the Spanish Steps or arriving from the northern parts of the park. It’s a perfect spot for sunset as you have a panoramic view over Rome and the sun goes down exactly next to Saint Peter’s Basilica. Very romantic, very kitchy!
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Dora Jokkel
Neighbourhoods
2017
Neighbourhoods Besides the must-see monuments and the historic center, there are other areas in Rome that are worth visiting and I will introduce you a few of them. 1.Trastevere Trastevere and Monti are the two neighbourhoods in Rome that look like postcards or movie scenes: narrow cobblestone streets; ivy-coated, charming buildings, flowers in the windows, Vespa scooters and old-school cars in every corner. I already wrote about Monti (see the Hidden gems of Rome section), now it’s time to discover Trastevere. It is located on the west side of the River Tiber and famous among locals and tourists. If you ask me, it’s a bit too touristy now and gets very crowded in the evenings. But Trastevere is definitely an area to visit in Rome! There are many good and typical restaurants, foodie places, pubs and cafés as well as vintage or handmade designer shops that are perfect for souvenir hunting. Trastevere is also a great place for photography lovers as it has a special, undeniably Italian atmosphere with the clothes hanging outside or people sitting in the sunshine, smoking there cigarette and drinking their coffee or Aperol Spritz. Trastevere is the hotspot not only for tourists but also for expats living in Rome. Plus, the American University of Rome and the John Cabot University (also from the U.S) are located here, so you will bump into many US students. And of course, students want to go out and party which is the reason of the several international pubs and party places in Trastevere.
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Arriving to Rome
Arriving in Rome Rome has two airports: Fiumicino/Leonardo da Vinci Airport, the bigger one and Ciampino, where Ryanair flies to. Both are located outside of Rome so you have to take a bus or a taxi to get to the center. Buses usually cost around 10 euros and they go to Termini. The taxi is quite expensive, it costs around €50-60 from Fiumicino to the center and €35-40 from Ciampino. Rome’s most important train station is Termini which is located close to the center and the airport bus stops are also located here. Hint: in case you are sitting next to the window on the plane, check out the Italian Alps that look very impressive from above the clouds.
Ottobrata Romana = Roman October Sunshine, warm days with 20 degrees but the leaves are getting their autumn colors and there are some rainy days that make you appreciate the sunshine even more. It is considered the most beautiful month in Rome.
2017
What is the best time for visiting Rome? Right now! Okay, if I have to be more practical: Rome has a Mediterranean climate which means pleasant weather most of the time. I visited Rome 3 times so far: In April when the nights were a bit chilly but during the day it felt like summer. In July, when it was extremely hot and the sun was very strong. Summer months are usually hot and humidity can be quite high. And then I arrived again at the end of August which was almost too hot, already at 9 am. August is officially the holiday month in Italy, meaning that many shops and restaurants are closed. The only advantage is that the city is emptier than usually. You won’t find many things open so just don’t visit Rome in August. The beginning of September can be very rainy. I experienced unexpectedly heavy rainfalls and got soaking wet many times. Otherwise it still feels like summer. Experts say that the best time to visit Rome is from April to May, and from October to mid-November. Experts don’t mention that ALL the tourists come during these months, so it is rather crowded. As I experienced, even November and December can be very sunny, the temperature is around 10-18 Celsius during the day but you need your lighter winter jacket for the evenings. Sun goes down around 4.30 pm in December. Rome is nice before Christmas with all the decoration and lights that are switched on from the 8th of December, after the Feast of Immaculate Conception, a religious holiday in Italy. 6
Dora Jokkel
Rome short visit
2017
Rome essentials for a 2-3 day visit I’ll be honest: 2-3 days are definitely not enough for Rome, especially if it is your very first time there. Even though the sights are quite close to each other, if you want to go inside buildings (e.g: Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museum, Villa Borghese, Forum Romanum, etc) you will need at least 4-5, intensely packed days. First, I will suggest you what not to miss when visiting Rome and than I will share a detailed 2-day program with you that I actually did with my visitors who have already been to Rome before. The program somewhat depends on the area where you are staying but these are the must-see sights for your first visit in the Eternal City.
Free entrance in Rome
Every first Sunday of the month you can enter the state museums for free. This includes the Colosseum, Castel Sant’Angelo and the Forum Romanum too. Sometimes you need to book in advance and pay 2 euros booking free (e.g.Museo Borghese). The last Sunday of the month means free entrance to the Vatican Museum too, but you cannot book in advance so you have to be very early. Otherwise the queueing up will take forever. Here you can find the official website of the free Sundays:
http://www.turismoroma.it/cosafare/domenica-al-museo-ingresso-gratuito-laprima-domenica-del-mese
1. Colosseum. Fortunately, it is more impressive from the outside, in case you are short in time, you can skip entering it. 2. Forum Romanum. That’s a hard one because you can check out the forum also from the outside but it is worth it to go inside and you need at least 2-3 hours for that. You can spare time with not attending a guided tour and reading the signs for yourself but it is still huge and you don’t want to miss the view from the Palatine Hill. To be honest, I only managed to visit this sight on my third trip to Rome and the city still amazed me even when I missed out the Forum. 3. Altare della Patria/Vittorio Emanuele Monument This huge white monument is one of my favorite sights in Rome. You can go to the top (it’s around 8 euros) or just to the middle, and the view is amazing from there. Next to the monument, there is the Church of Santa Maria d’Aracoeli with many steps leading up to it. Both the view and the church are worth climbing up.
Also, on certain holidays and on the International Day of Tourism (27th of September), most of the museums offer free entry.
4. Pantheon. From Piazza Venezia, where the Altare della Patria is located, you can continue your sightseeing tour on Via del Corso, the famous shopping street. At Via del Caravita you must turn left to reach the Pantheon. You don’t need to buy tickets for going inside and it is a rather quick visit.
Hint: on the 27th of September, the Vatican Museum is free AND you can book in advance, meaning that you skip the line and enter for free. This is what I did!
5. Piazza Navona. If you continue your walk from the Pantheon towards the river, you will quickly reach Piazza Navona with its famous fountains, Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers being the most famous one among them. 2
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Dora Jokkel
Rome short visit
What and where to eat: Short visit version
2017
Addresses Bar del Fico: Piazza del Fico 26
It’s really difficult to recommend places for eating around the famous sights because first, there are many tourist-traps, second, I don’t know your schedule and route plan, third, I don’t even know you and your meal preferences. But I will try to suggest a few places or areas that fit my sightseeing list. Near Colosseum: if you are near the Colosseum and have a few hours, go to Monti neighbourhood which is full of great restaurants and street-food options. On Via Urbana or Via del Boschetto you will find many places. For specific names, go to the Monti section (page 39) of this book. There are lot of panini and sandwich shops on Via del Corso and some of them are not that bad... There are many good places behind Piazza Navona, on Via di Tor Millina and Piazza del Fico. I tried Serafini alla Pace, besides typical Italian meals they also have nice salad options. There is a great bar for drinks, called Bar del Fico (7 euros for an Aperol spritz, 8-10 for other cocktails). Da Francesco* is said to be a great but expensive typical Roman restaurant.
Da Francesco: Piazza del Fico 29 Giolitti: Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40 Serafini alla Pace: Via Della Pace 25-26 Sant’ Eustachio: Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82 Osteria Margherita: Via delle Coppelle 34 Ciao Checca: Piazza di Firenze 25/26 Açaí & Friends: Via di Campo Marzio 69 Daruma Sushi: Piazza del Parlamento 37 La Prosciutteria: Via della Panetteria 34A Pane e Salame: Via Santa Maria in Via, 19
There are several nice places near the Pantheon. There is Giolitti, one of the best ice cream parlors in Rome. One of the most famous cafés of Rome is Sant’ Eustachio where many local politicians and famous stars drink their espresso. Try the Il gran caffé, their special, foamy espresso with thick crema. There is a trendy slow-food place called Ciao Checca, offering healthy but also typical dishes. Osteria Margherita offers great pasta, pizza, Roman dishes and wide range of big and tasty salad bowls. In case you crave healthy smoothies, salads or an acai bowl, try Açaí & Friends. If you want to have sushi near the Pantheon (God knows why you would have this idea but I’m happy to help), go to Daruma sushi. Around Trevi fountain, there is a place called La Prosciutteria where you can either have a sandwich or a plate of salami, prosciutto ham, cheese and some bread with a glass of wine for a really fair price. The plates are arriving on a big wooden board and can be shared among many people. Nearby there is a place with similar concept, called Pane e Salame, selling freshly made and huuuuge paninis for 5-6 euros and also offering the ham and cheese plates. 3
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Dora Jokkel
Foodie guide
2017
Foodie guide: What and where to eat in Rome? Italian cuisine is familiar to everyone and popular all over the world. You don’t have to deny that one of your main goals during visiting the Eternal City is to have several foodgasms (food orgasm) while eating the best and most authentic pizza, pasta and gelato. The city center and the areas around the main sights are full of restaurants, bars and cafés but to make sure you avoid the tourist trap places where only bad and expensive food is served, here is my guide for you! Pizza You think you know pizza well. You are educated enough to be aware that the real Italian pizza is thin and that Italians consider it as a sin to put pineapple or chicken on pizza. You also know that the most famous pizza is called Margherita and is made from three main ingredients which reflect the colors of the Italian flag: tomato, mozzarella and basil. You know that putting ketchup on your pizza is equal to punching someone in the face. With a chair. But there are some facts about pizza that you can only discover if you live in Italy for a while. First of all, there are typical versions of pizza, depending on the region you are visiting. In Rome you will encounter two types of pizza: the Roman style with very thin and crunchy crust or the Neapolitan which is thin and chewy and heavenly soft. Fortunately, you can choose, people don’t judge you. What can be surprising that Italians put olive oil on the top of the pizza, especially in the case of the Roman style. That would be fine but if you have cheese as topping, the dough can be too oily and it is not very beneficial for the taste. Not all places do this but expect that your pizza comes with some extra oil. Moreover, pizza is generally considered as street food, an ideal snack for take away and sold in square slices (al taglio) at many places. In most of the bakeries (forno), you will find pizza in the offer. There are certain chains specialized in selling pizza al taglio and their shops can be found all over the city, often close to main sights. Probably the most famous place for squared pizza is Bonci Pizzarium*, located close to the Vatican City. They also have a stand at Mercato Centrale, a very cool market-like food court at Termini. 4
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Dora Jokkel
Foodie guide
2017
Coffee Italian coffee is the best. No matter where you drink it, it will be a good one! An espresso costs around € 0,5 but there are more expensive, fancy places of course. When you want an espresso, say “un caffè, per favore!” as the world ‘espresso’ is not the name of the coffee in Italy but the way it is made (express). In bars and cafés, it is very common that you pay at the cashier desk first, get the receipt and then you can go to the counter to order, waving with your bill in your hand. Coffee costs double if you sit down at a table, the majority of Italians are standing at the bar. Italy is not the place where you are sipping your double-moccha-soycappuccino-caramel-toffee beverage while sitting in a cosy armchair for hours. Coffee is drank quickly, accompanied only by a cornetto (Italian croissant) or a small snack. Italians drink coffee several times a day: with their small breakfast (caffèlatte), in the morning (with cornetto), after lunch, for merenda (afternoon snack) and often after big dinners for better digestion. Many times you will see caffè d’orzo on the menu which is a caffeine-free version, made from barley. Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè One of the most famous cafés of Rome, located close to the Pantheon and frequented by politicians and celebrities. Truly Italian, as most of the people are standing at the bar. Their signature espresso (Il Gran Caffè) has a surprisingly thick and foamy cream (see on the picture on the left). Legends say it is due to the baking soda put into the water. The coffee machine is in the corner and the making process is hidden so we will never find out their secret. When you order at the bar, state in advance if you want sugar as they will put it into the cup before making the coffee. Their other famous beverages are: Il Gran Cappuccino, Il Moretto (espresso with milk foam and cocoa powder) and La Granitina (coffee with sugar, mush ice and whipped cream).
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Dora Jokkel
Foodie guide
2017
Roman dishes to try Roman cuisine –similarly to every other region in Italy- has its own traditional and characteristic dishes and snacks that can be found only here. Many of them are seasonal (e.g: figs or artichokes) so it’s worth it to check what is available during the time of your visit. Most of the following culinary highlights can be found in restaurants as starters or main courses and honestly, if the place has good reviews, these dishes should be made well, so I won’t recommend many specific restaurants. Moreover, if you manage to have aperitivo (which is usually offered between 5 pm and 8 pm), you will find these typical dishes in the selection. Artichokes On the menu look for the word ‘carciofi’, usually in the side dishes (contorni) or appetizers (antipasti) section. There are two ways to cook them: alla Romana (Roman style) when artichokes are stuffed with a mix of oil, garlic, lemon, parsley and mint and then they are braised until getting soft enough. Alla giudia (Jewish style) is when the artichoke is beaten until it opens up and looks like a flower, then seasoned with lemon juice, salt and pepper and deep fried in oil. They are crunchy and warm when eaten. The season is from February to May but you can find artichokes on the menu all year round. Fried zucchini flowers (Fiori di zucca) I highly recommend you to check out how they look like before preparation at a market place. And then try them in a restaurant. If you’re like me, you will be astonished how delicious food can be created from, well, from basically flowers. I have no idea how it is made but it contains cheese, anchovies and it is battered and deep fried. Sooooo delicious! Fried cod fillet (Filetti di baccalà fritti) A bit similar to fish & chips, it’s deep fried cod fillet. Enough said. Dar Filettaro* (Largo dei Librari, 88). Supplì By now, you probably realized how much Romans love fried food. Here comes another one! Supplì are small but very filling: fried risotto balls, stuffed with cheese or meat ragu or both. The name comes from the French word “surprise” and it refers to the feeling you get when you open up the warm risotto ball and discover the melted, soft cheese inside… Also, they are often called “supplì al telefono” because after opening, the warm cheese becomes long and stringy and it looks like the cord connecting a telephone to the hook (obviously, a bit old-school name, you will never understand if you were born into the smartphone era). Supplì can be found at many places as appetizer and there are also places specialized in making this Roman snack. Supplizio* (Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143), Il Suppli*(Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 137)
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Dora Jokkel
Parks
2017
Parks Parks play essential role in the daily life of Rome. There is no better place to enjoy the Mediterranean weather than in the green areas located in the urban environment: parks are great choices both for sitting in the sun or escaping from the heat when it gets unbearable in the city. Similar to many things in Rome, parks are also magical: they are peaceful oases with evergreen plants, palm trees and full of green parrots. Yes, parrots! Just like in the paradise you only dreamt about! Also, parks are full of Rome’s iconic stone pine trees (called pino) which look like lace umbrellas spreading over you in the blue sky. Wait, it still gets more magical! Most of the parks used to be the gardens of rich families’ houses, this is why they are called Villa something (villa is the building). This means that most of the time one or more fancy buildings can be found in the parks. Moreover, Romans had this thing with water and not only the city but also the parks are full of fountains. It is truly amazing how these green areas are used in Rome. They are always alive: locals come here for relaxing, reading, doing workout, running, having a picnic, go for a walk, have a break from the city life, meet friends or dates, study or just think about life. Or talk to girls who look like they are not from Rome. Seriously, this is not to be bragging, but every single time I sat down in a park for reading or studying, I ended up talking with people. Sometimes in Italian, even if my level was below conversational. Sometimes tourists started to talk to me and I always had the feeling this is because they are also under the magical effects of the park. The simple but indescribable beauty cannot be explained here, it has to be experienced!
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Dora Jokkel
Sunsets in Rome
2017
Spots for sunset watching Sunsets in Rome are amazing and fortunately there are several spots where you can enjoy a breathtaking view while watching the sun going down in the Eternal City. 1. Terrazza del Pincio My favorite spot in Rome, nothing can be compared to this view. Terrazza del Pincio is part of Villa Borghese and located just above Piazza del Popolo. You can reach the terrace from three different ways: taking the steps from the piazza; coming from the direction of the Spanish Steps or arriving from the northern parts of the park. It’s a perfect spot for sunset as you have a panoramic view over Rome and the sun goes down exactly next to Saint Peter’s Basilica. Very romantic, very kitchy!
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Dora Jokkel
Neighbourhoods
2017
Neighbourhoods Besides the must-see monuments and the historic center, there are other areas in Rome that are worth visiting and I will introduce you a few of them. 1.Trastevere Trastevere and Monti are the two neighbourhoods in Rome that look like postcards or movie scenes: narrow cobblestone streets; ivy-coated, charming buildings, flowers in the windows, Vespa scooters and old-school cars in every corner. I already wrote about Monti (see the Hidden gems of Rome section), now it’s time to discover Trastevere. It is located on the west side of the River Tiber and famous among locals and tourists. If you ask me, it’s a bit too touristy now and gets very crowded in the evenings. But Trastevere is definitely an area to visit in Rome! There are many good and typical restaurants, foodie places, pubs and cafés as well as vintage or handmade designer shops that are perfect for souvenir hunting. Trastevere is also a great place for photography lovers as it has a special, undeniably Italian atmosphere with the clothes hanging outside or people sitting in the sunshine, smoking there cigarette and drinking their coffee or Aperol Spritz. Trastevere is the hotspot not only for tourists but also for expats living in Rome. Plus, the American University of Rome and the John Cabot University (also from the U.S) are located here, so you will bump into many US students. And of course, students want to go out and party which is the reason of the several international pubs and party places in Trastevere.
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