SLIP ON ROCK, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE, IMPROPER

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SLIP ON ROCK, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE, IMPROPER INSTRUCTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Table Rock (On Septem ber 20,1986, Elizabeth Crosscope [35] was climbing with two friends [35 and 32] in an area known as “T he Devil’s C ourthouse.” Her accident report contained the following narrative.) After successfully making a 20 m eter climb rated 5.6 by the members of my party, I attem pted to rappel down. This was my first experience with rappelling, and I was given no instruction other than to trust the rope. Scott had rigged me for the rappel in such a fashion that the belaying line was in my hand with the safety line. T here was too much friction. W hen it was necessary for me to traverse left to get around an overhang, I slipped on a lichen patch because there was still too m uch tension on the lines in my hand. I pivoted and crashed the rock with my jaw. Tim belayed me immediately and I cam e to with no safety line in my hand. I was stunned and bleeding from a deep cut in my jaw and I was very confused. I reduced the dislocation while hanging there, and after resting for a while, recovered the lines and started over. Again I pivoted and crashed, this time abrading my right shoulder. Tim ’s quick belay had pulled both lines out of my right hand. A fter a rest I recovered and m ade it down the third time. (Source: Elizabeth Crosscope) Analysis I was very glad not to have died on this climb. I had never m ade a climb requiring a top rope before, but am okay at scrambling and friction climbing. I think my friends assumed

that I was com petent to attem pt this climb because I am com petent at other strenuous physical activities. A fter a few weeks of healing, I w ent out on a practice session with Dr. Stephen Perry, a climber who is on the faculty of the University of South Carolina. He taught me basic balance techniques while rappelling, a much safer belaying rigging, had me wear a helm et, taught me to traverse left and right, talked me through my absolute dread of rappelling, and had me rappel first a m eter, then two m eters, then six m eters over and over again. H ere is w hat I learned: (1) I now know my limits as a rank beginner; (2) I know w hat the right friction feels like on the safety line; (3) I will never climb with people who are drinking again; (4) I understand about being responsible for my own safety; (5) I bought a helmet. (Source: Elizabeth Crosscope)

(Editor’s Note: From the mouths o f babes—and rank beginning climbers—came the most succinct words o f wisdom. Thanks, Ms. Crosscope.)