ספרים/Israel Birds in the Holy Land english complete lowres

Princess Takamado of Japan, Honorary President of BirdLife International

Israel – for many it is a metaphor for the conflict in the Middle East that has been smoldering for decades. Others cherish the country on the eastern shores of the Mediterranean Sea as the birthplace of three world religions. But there is more than meets the eye in Israel beyond religion or the elusive struggle for peace. The small nation nestled between the Mediterranean to the west, the Dead Sea to the east and the Red Sea to the south is one of the most important hubs of bird migration between continents anywhere in the world. Nature’s miracle of bird migration can be witnessed here in the Holy Land every autumn and spring like nowhere else on the planet. The skies are filled with a rich variety of birds from storks to pelicans and even eagles that fly over the land bridge that Israel represents connecting Asia, Europe and Africa. There are more than 500 million feathered travelers crossing the beaches, deserts and cities of Israel on their way towards the wintering grounds in Africa before returning north in the spring. For many Israel is the last stopover before crossing the Sahara desert. In Israel the birds roost for a last time and refuel before embarking on their treacherous and grueling journey across the 2,000 kilometer-wide desert belt. Storks from Germany often roost with Cranes from Scandinavia and Russia while both often stand harmoniously alongside White Pelicans originating from the Danube Delta in Romania and the Mideast’s indigenous Spur-winged Plovers. Step back and allow yourself to be touched by the breathtaking variety of nature that is unlike anything else anywhere in the world.

NATURBLICK Peter Scherbuk Verlag

Thomas Krumenacker

"It is, for me, the breath-taking mixture of bird and landscape, portait and place, that makes this book such a vibrant gift to the world."

Birds in the Holy Land

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Thomas Krumenacker

Birds in the Holy Land A Photographic Journey Through Israel

NATURBLICK

Berlin-based journalist and photographer Thomas Krumenacker visited Israel for the first time in 2005 to report on politics in the Middle East. Fascinated by its natural beauty, he returned soon as a nature photographer. The spontaneous first brief visit was followed by more than 30 extended photo expeditions. Krumenacker’s photographs have been exhibited widely – including, among other places, at the Israeli Knesset, or parliament building.

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Birds In The Holy Land

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Thomas Krumenacker

Birds In The Holy Land A Photographic Journey Through Israel

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Dedicated to the birds whose tremendous and grandiose accomplishments we ought to be more appreciative of and treasure more.

A party of Lesser Spotted Eagles is leaving its night roost to continue migration

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Contents

Preface

10

Foreword

13

Introduction

17

The many facets of bird migration

21

Where to watch birds in Israel

29

The Hula Valley

33

The Golan Heights

63

The migration of the Lesser Spotted Eagles

73

The Bet-Shean Valley

87

The Judean and Negev Deserts

Little Green Bee-eaters are among the most colorful birds of southern Israel

109

The Arava Valley and Eilat

151

Acknowledgements

175

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White Storks cross the Galilee region during their migration and pass one of the numerous Arab villages

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Preface

radiate a resoluteness, a confidence, even

tedness of all things. We must treasure their

a fierceness to survive, to stake their claim

security as we treasure our own.

to life. In these photographs the birds Those of us who love birds and watch them

themselves inspire us to take their side!

So I wish the birds of the Holy Land well.

every day will welcome this marvellous

But if nature is a struggle for existence,

If they live there all the year I wish them

book, for obvious reasons. But it is a book

the struggle has resulted in a grand

prosperity in numbers. If they visit between

for many more people than us birdwatchers.

harmony and this too the book reveals,

their summer and winter quarters, I wish

Here in these pages is something very

in the way it fits the birds to their

them safe passage. I hope this book will

special for everyone, for people who may

environment, and to each other. It is a

inspire all who read it to support BirdLife

never have thought about birds before,

harmony that we, the peoples of the

International and its partners around

never have had the chance to see the

earth and the custodians of nature, must

the world in our work to ensure that bird

wonderful places they live in. It is, for me,

not fail to keep.

species and populations survive and flourish

the breath-taking mixture of bird and

everywhere.

landscape, portrait and place, that makes

Every country should have a book like this,

this book such a vibrant gift to the world.

about its birds and about its wild places.

So vivid are the images, so strong their

Every bird, every wild place should find a

impression, that they make me feel I have

page in a book like this. It commands us

just paid my first visit to the Holy Land!

to give nature the respect, the honour and

To birds! To life!

the love that it deserves. In the Rift Valley What I especially find rivetting about this

perhaps more than anywhere on earth we

album (and as an aspiring bird photographer

see how birds know no frontiers. In their

myself I am in awe of this achievement)

travels around the eastern Mediterranean

Her Imperial Highness

is how it reveals the character of birds.

from Europe to Africa and back again, they

Princess Takamado

Underneath their beauty and grace, they

are the living embodiment of the connec-

Honorary President of BirdLife International

10

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Foreword “There are three things that are too amazing for me, four that I do not understand: the way of a vulture in the sky, the way of a serpent on a rock, the way of a ship on the high seas, and the way of a man with a young woman." Proverbs 30, 18-19

The author of this unique photographic album

the uniqueness of the biodiversity and the

about the birds in Israel, Thomas Krumenacker,

enormous numbers of birds migrating above

is a "rare bird" in his own right. During his first

Israel. This was accomplished during hundreds

visit to the country, accompanying the German

of days spent in hides, walking the hot deserts

President as journalist, Thomas was captivated

and flying in a motorized glider, all with

by its charms and the uniqueness of the Holy

persistence and endless affinity for the birds

Land with the passion of a first love and within

and their very varied habitats, ranging from

just a few years he visited dozens of times

the snowy peaks of Mount Hermon, via the

with his cameras and lenses. He documented

Mediterranean forest in the north, the desert

the country's scenery, focusing on the wonder-

areas and to the southern coast of the Gulf

ful and exceptionally rich biodiversity of the

of Eilat.

tiny country, located at the junction of three

The artistic photography and the incredible

Blackstarts are self-confident

continents.

scenery documented by this exceptional artist

gardens but also remote

With his exceptional talents, the photographer

combined with the sharpness and fluidity of

Thomas Krumenacker has succeeded in

movement of the birds over Israel on their way

immortalizing in the album lying before you

from Europe and Western Asia to Africa has

small birds that inhabit deserts

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resulted in a magnificent record of the birds

Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel

of Israel.

(SPNI) established for the conservation of birds

Thomas also developed close ties with the

and their habitats, the education of the public

many birdwatchers in Israel, who are committed

and school children, and increasing the public's

to learning about all the species and protecting

affinity to birds. We are certain that this book

them, and educating the next generation of

will constitute an additional stepping stone

youngsters to follow in their footsteps. His love

towards achieving our goals and protecting this

for the country, its birds and people became

unique and special corner of the earth, the Holy

a two-way path when many of the birdwatchers

Land, for generations to come.

in Israel understood that Israel had almost

We would like to take this opportunity to extend

become Thomas' first home and Germany his

our special thanks to Moshe and Raheli Yanai,

second.

the principle donors of the Hoopoe Foundation,

This book presents the professional results

and others without whose assistance over many

of a decade of work, which in our opinion will

years the Foundation would never have taken

Prof. Yossi Leshem

attract many more birdwatchers to Israel to

off and accomplished all it has done.

Secretary of the Hoopoe Foundation Tel Aviv University

see the "Eighth Wonder of the World". The publishing of this book has been funded partially by the Hoopoe Foundation of the

We hope you enjoy the book!

The Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel

Dan Alon Director, Israel Ornithological Center The Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel

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Introduction

different major climate zones gives the country a unique position compared to other regions in the world.

Great White Pelicans pass over Israel in big numbers in spring and autumn 16

Israel is unique! Everybody will agree with that

Without exaggeration, it can be said that

– but most people will likely think first and

the spectacular and mystic phenomenon of

foremost about the political situation and the

bird migration that has stirred the imagination

Israeli-Palestinian conflict that has lingered for

of people for thousands of years can be

decades.

studied in Israel better than almost at any

Israel is unique – others may agree with that –

other location in the world.

and many will probably think then of its

But it is not only the migration that makes

unparalleled role as the center for three major

Israel a top destination for nature lovers:

religions and its unrivaled cultural heritage.

Israel’s geography and climate make the

Yet Israel is really unique for another reason

country a favorable winter destination for

and this book will attempt to illustrate what

many birds from the Northern Hemisphere,

makes the country so special because of

especially its well-developed agriculture in

another treasure – its immense natural wealth

the middle of otherwise arid areas being a

and especially its birds. This tiny country is only

magnet for vast numbers of birds from Europe.

about the size of New Jersey and half as big

The variety of habitats with spectacular land-

as Switzerland, not much bigger than a

scapes ranging from high-altitude mountains to

medium-sized German state but it is never-

lush Mediterranean coastal areas, to vast arid

theless one of the best places on the planet

steppes and the impressive Judean and Negev

to watch birds. Its location at the gateway of

Deserts are also home for many resident bird

three continents as well as its great diversity

species. Visitors can enjoy a mix of species

of habitats and - despite its small size – three

seldom found elsewhere. For some of them

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Israel forms the northern limit of their distribu-

birds - to the benefit of human and creatures

tion , for others the country is the southern- or

alike. Palestinians and Israelis protect Barn

westernmost place to be seen regularly. Among

Owls across state borders as allies in biological

them are some threatened or near-endemic

pest-control in agriculture - and come closer to

species like Macqueen’s Bustard, Arabian Warb-

each other at the same time. In a joint effort,

ler and Syrian Serin. Equally as impressive as

Jordanians and Israelis furbish disused military

the species diversity are the contrasts in the

bunkers and as breeding sites for birds and

landscapes where the birds can be observed:

bats. Children from Palestine and Israel follow,

The often snow-covered tops of Israel‘s highest

enthralled, the migration of "their" White

mountain, Mount Hermon, reach over 2,200

Storks that have been equipped with satellite

meters but Israel also takes pride in having the

transmitters. Jordanian teenagers are greeted

lowest point on earth within its borders, the

frantically as participants at the annual

Dead Sea that is 417 meters below sea level.

"Crane race", a marathon event in the Hula

More than 500 bird species have been recorded

Valley to celebrate bird migration and promote

so far, with new species found almost annually.

their protection. I could list many more

The protection of our environment - including

examples of this ‘coming together’ of people

our birds - can, in times of climate change and

to achieve a common goal.

water deficiency, play an important role in

This book is not a political book. Nonetheless

promoting cross-border cooperation and under-

I hope that it may encourage those who see

standing. I came across many such projects

Israel solely as a country of conflict and crisis

during numerous visits in recent years:

to take a fresh look from a new perspective

Ornithologists and authorities from Israel,

on the Holy Land.

Jordan and other countries cooperate to avoid collisions between airplanes and migrating

18

Thomas Krumenacker, Berlin, July 2016

The Hoopoe is Israel’s National Bird. Tens of

thousands of Israelis chose the Hoopoe from a

selection of candidates in

a major campaign initiated by the Society for the

Protection of Birds in Israel. Voting took place in kinder-

gartens, schools, universities, army barracks and on the Internet.

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The many facets of bird migration

20

Bird migration has always inspired people in all

Europe and western Siberia through the Middle

parts of the world. Any bird lover who has ever

East into southern Africa.

seen one of the seemingly endless streams of

For much of its route this flyway follows the

raptors gliding effortlessly along the ridges of

Great Rift Valley and Israel is a part of the Rift

mountains - or storks, eagles and buzzards

valley along its entire North-South expansion.

soaring together on the same thermal to gain

From the existing six major bottlenecks for

altitude to continue their journey over thou-

Palearctic birds migrating between Eurasia and

sands of kilometers -- will want to see more of

Africa the Rift-Valley-Route is the most impor-

this natural wonder. And Israel is among the

tant. No one knows for sure exactly how many

best places in the world to observe the miracle

birds migrate across Israel each year but ex-

of bird migration.

perts estimate the number to be about some

Due to its geographical location at the gateway

500 million in each of the migration seasons.

of three continents and, given its function as a

For several species a safe passage over Israel

land bridge at the eastern end of the Mediterra-

is vital for their survival as nearly all or a sub-

nean Sea, the sheer number of migrating birds

stantial part of their global population migrates

over Israel is staggering. Most importantly the

in a small corridor over the country. This is the

entire length of this small country is part of the

case, for example, for the Lesser Spotted Eagle

Hundreds of migrating

Eurasian-East African Flyway, the second most

and the Levant Sparrowhawk with almost all of

White Storks descend

from the sky in front of

important flyway for birds in the world. More

the global population passing over Israel.

an almost full moon

than 1.5 million raptors and other soaring birds

Also, most of the estimated 500,000 Eurasian

travel along this corridor from northeastern

White Storks migrate through Israel and Jordan,

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mainly birds that breed in Central and Eastern

during the night, making it impossible for us to

Europe. The same goes for the bulk of the

watch them. But the careful observer will still

European population of the Honey Buzzard.

recognize that a clandestine journey of

And the vast majority of Great White Pelicans

thousands of birds is taking place even under

breeding in the Western Palearctic pass through

the cover of darkness. The continuous coming

Israel and depend on places to roost and feed.

and going can be seen when a completely

What has especially fascinated and astonished

different set of bird species suddenly drops in

people over the centuries is the phenomenon

on the lawn of a city park or appears at a lake

that masses of birds can arrive back at exactly

nearby from one day to the next.

the same place at exactly the same time of subsequent years. Even in the Old Testament

But the pilgrimage of birds can be relatively

there were surprisingly knowledgeable and

inconspicuous at times: A lonely Osprey

accurate descriptions of bird migration: „Yea,

roosting in the midst of a desert, for example.

the stork in the heavens knoweth her appointed

It is only by knowing that this species feeds

times; and the turtle-dove and the swallow

exclusively on fish that it becomes apparent

and the crane observe the time of their coming“

that the single bird we see is in a hostile envi-

(Jeremia 8,7)

ronment – far away from the next lake or

To the present day, the reliable timing and vast

shore – and is not in its usual breeding territory

quantities of birds involved are the most impres-

but in the midst of its long and hazardous

sive and obvious aspects of the migration.

journey towards the wintering grounds or back

But here are many other fascinating but less

home to the breeding site.

obvious facets of the million-fold journey of birds over continents, deserts, seas, and

But what is the home of “our“ birds? This simple

mountain peaks. Many small birds migrate

question is hard to answer. The Lesser White-

22

Great White Pelicans arrive at their night roost at Hula Lake just before sunset

throat, the Red-backed Shrike and the Great

trotters in every sense of the term, at home in

Reed Warbler – to name just a few species –

many places of our earth. Bird migration is in

arrive from their wintering quarters to their

one sense a metaphor for freedom and bound-

breeding grounds at the end of April. Most of

lessness. But it is also an illustration of a lonely,

them start flying south again in July. Within

dangerous struggle of an individual against

only a few weeks they find a partner, build a

the forces of nature and the ecological changes

nest, raise their chicks – and embark again

in an environment that is constantly being

on a long journey over thousands of kilometers.

shaped by mankind’s influence. This struggle

Like them, many other bird species spend three

can and often does end up with the migrating

quarters of the year away from their breeding

bird perishing along its perilous route.

territories “at home“. Birds are the real globe-

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For European Black Storks Israel is one of the most important stopover sites on their migration to and from Africa in the autumn and spring. In recent years the numbers of storks staying in Israel for the winter has increased, especially in the northern valleys and along the Jordan River.

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The southern deserts of Israel are home to some true survivors such as the Temminck's Horned Lark. 26

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Where to watch birds in Israel Birdwatching can be easily enjoyed anywhere

to the east and the Hermon Mountain range on

and in all seasons of the year in Israel. The bird

the Israeli-Syrian-Lebanese border to the north.

species that are at home in the steppe and de-

It is here, where after extensive renaturalisa-

sert regions are mostly non-migratory and thus

tion, the Jordan river meanders again in parts

can be observed all year round. On top of that

of its earlier riverbed, and the entire region is

bird migration periods stretch over many

thus a feasting ground for many wetland spe-

months because the bird populations of various

cies as well as birds of prey, storks and pelicans.

regions of Europe and parts of Asia fly across

A visitor center provides information and the

Israel twice a year. That is why Israel is, from

famous "Mobile Hides" – trailers equipped with

the north to the south, a perfect destination to

seat benches drawn behind a tractor – bring

find a great variety and also a rather unique

visitors to a distance of only a few meters to get

composition of bird species.

a close glimpse of thousands of utterly un-

In general terms it can be stated that most of

impressed cranes. A completely different picture

the autumn migration takes place from mid-

– rocks, sand and heat - can be seen in the

August to November and during the spring

south of the country in the Negev and Judean

migration most birds pass over Israel from late

Deserts and along the Dead Sea and the Arava

Febuary to May.

Valley. All these deserts are among the driest

There are easily accessible and rewarding bird-

on earth. But, even in this extremely hostile

watching places in all parts of the country. In

environment, a rich birdlife can be found, and

the North, a visit to the Hula Valley is a must.

one that is often surprisingly colourful. One or

The fertile plain is framed by the Golan Heights

two heavy rainfalls a winter are sufficient to

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turn the barren desert into a blossoming

The Western Negev region is also an important

landscape. In the stony and dry environment

stopover site for migrating birds from Europe.

there, the acacia trees and other plants blos-

After a long and exhausting journey from Africa

Hundreds of thousands of European songbirds

Even without preparation and little time, it is

som, providing a source of food for birds and

and after crossing the Sahara Desert they

spend a mild winter here.

possible for the casual visitor to thoroughly

other animals.

finally reach fertile areas once again that are

Even for visitors who come to Israel for the first

savor and enjoy the rich variety of birdlife in

Particularly rich in bird species is the western

rich with sources of food. On some days thou-

time, it is not a problem at all to find some of

Israel. A walk, for example, through one of the

part of the Negev region along the Sinai border

sands of fatigued storks virtually drop from the

the best places for birdwatching. The Israeli

city parks in Eilat on the Red Sea in March or

with Egypt. Here the pure sand and stone desert

sky to roost and feed.

ornithologists maintain Birdwatching Centers

April, can lead to delightful encounters with

regions meet with the Mediterranean-influenced

The north-western part of the Negev is again

in all regions of the country. They have prepared

coveted species such as Red-throated Pipits,

semi-deserts and steppes. There are birds in

very different. Here the dream of Israel’s first

a set of premium maps and other publications

Wrynecks, Hoopoes, Masked Shrikes, Ortolan

this region that were already all-but eradicated

Prime Minister, David Ben-Gurion, to "make the

and also offer highly recommended guided

and Cretzschmar’s Buntings,– in short: with

elsewhere in the Arabian Peninsula, often

desert bloom" has partly come true. Thanks to

tours led by the country’s best wildlife experts

species each of which would justify a trip on

through hunting and poaching, among them the

extensive irrigation efforts agricultural areas

(www.birds.org.il).

its own. All this, while at the same time the sky

Macqueen’s Bustard, one of the true jewels of

have been established which are also of course

above can be packed with raptors migrating

Israel’s rich bird life.

sources of nourishment for migratory birds.

over in groups of thousands.

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The Hula Valley

lake and surrounding swamp of about 6,000 hectares in the 1950s was, aside from the plague of malaria, the need for arable agriculture

The history of the Hula Valley in the north of

land for the growing population of people sur-

Israel close to its borders with Syria and

ging into the newly established Jewish state.

Lebanon is the story of an ecological disaster –

Only a small realm of 320 hectares was spared

and of the successful attempt to repair at

and declared as the first Israeli Nature Reserve -

least parts of the damage that was done in the

the still existing Hula Nature Reserve. The drai-

early days of Israel’s statehood.

nage led to the extinction of many rare, some even endemic, plant, fish, invertebrate, amphi-

Daybreak in the Hula Valley. Cranes flying over the "Pelican Lookout" Observation tower. 32

Before it was drained, the Hula Valley was one

bian and bird species. Among them the small

of the biggest swamps in the entire Middle

Israeli population of the White-tailed Eagle

East – and thus a wonderful wintering and

became extinct and was the most obvious

breeding ground for many extremely rare birds

victim.

in this part of the world like the White-tailed

All in all 119 animal species vanished from the

and Greater Spotted Eagles and the Spoonbill.

area including 37 species that were lost from

Different bioregions overlap in the region at

Israel.

the crossroads of the continents resulting in

Despite the immense efforts, the drainage of

the occurence of anmial and plant species

the swamps did not have the desired results

from Eurasian as well as tropic origin. One of

for Israel's agriculture. Soil deterioration and

the most characteristic plants of the tropical

erosion were caused by the unprecedented

marshes, the Cyperus Papyrus, has its northern-

intervention into the natural eco-system and as

most limit of distribution in the Hula Valley.

a result the water quality of the Sea of Galilee

The main reason why Israel drained the vast

south of the Hula Valley - the country’s most

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important single freshwater reservoir – was

nourishing on crops and seeds in the agri-

seriously threatened by the washout of nitrates

cultural fields or on fish from the fish-farms.

from the Hula Valley. In a move to try to contain

As a part of management efforts, a feeding

the negative repercussions from the drainage,

area for the cranes was established to prevent

a major renaturalization project was launched

the birds from feeding on the crops. Additio-

in the 1990s. The most important measures

nally, thousands of people come to visit the

were the partial reconstruction of the Jordan

crane migration and thus create income for

river and the reflooding of a part of the valley.

the local communities and help build broader

A shallow lake of 110 hectares, the Lake Hula

acceptance for the birds.

(Agmon in Hebrew) was created.

Today, the Hula Valley is for the most part no

Today the lakes, together with the agricultural

longer an untouched nature preserve but

fields in the vicinity of the Agmon and the

rather a heavily transformed landscape by

fishpond-complexes of the neighboring

and large – it is nevertheless of tremendous

Kibbutzim offer some of the best – in winter

importance for migratory and resident birds.

probably the best – birdwatching opportunities

The most recent example is the first successful

in the country.

breeding of the reintroduced White-tailed

But the area situated along the Great Rift Valley

Eagle in the valley – more than half a decade

with a tradition of bird migration

after it was made extinct from the area by the

stretching over tens of thousands of years is

drainage of the valley.

also a battlefield of several conflicts between those who champion bird protection and those who argue on behalf of agricultural utilization: Up to 80,000 cranes and several thousand White Pelicans rest during migration in the area,

34

A group of Cranes in first morning light. The Hula Valley is one of the most important staging points for cranes from Europe and Russia during spring and autumn migration.

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A flock of Great White Pelicans migrates over the Hula Valley. Along with the Bet Shean Valley, the Hula Valley is one of the most important staging areas for this species in the entire Middle East region.

Left | The "Agmon" - the "small lake" at the foothills of the Golan Hights. It was created as part of the renaturalization of sections of the Valley and now constitutes one of the most important sites in the Eastern Mediterranean for waders and shorebirds.

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During peak days in the migration periods in spring and autumn, flocks of several thousands of Great White Pelicans are a not-uncommon sight in the Hula Valley.

Right | The restored Jordan River today again meanders along its ancient course in parts of the Hula Valley. From a bird's eye view the

area resembles the swamps and floodplains in the remote parts of Eastern Europe and is thus the preferred wintering areas to bird species from these regions such as the Greater Spotted Eagle and the Imperial Eagle. 38

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Immediately after daybreak the first cranes sally out from their night roosts to the adjacent fields to start feeding Left | Cranes and Great White Pelicans have spent the night jointly in the shallow waters of the Hula Lake 40

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The female Crane lays down on her clutch,

carefully, after a short break in brooding. Only a

few month later parents and offspring will leave

Thousands and thousands of cranes gather at

embark on a long journey to their wintering

the beginning of November onwards. The birds

the remote forests of Eastern Europe jointly to quarters in Africa. The Hula Valley will be most likely one of the stages.

the foothill of the Hermon Mountains from originate mainly from the populations in Scandinavia, Eastern Europe and Russia.

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The cranes spend the night in large groups in the shallow water of the Lake Hula to be protected from enemies such as the Jungle cat. In the background the Golan Heights.

Right | A foggy morning in the Hula Valley. The "Pelican Lookout" is one of many obersvation points in the Agmon Park. 44

45

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Cranes migrate at daytime but also at night, a very uncommon behaviour for large birds

Right | With first morning light the cranes start flying towards the fields and a many-voiced choir of thousands of birds fills the valley 46

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In spring and autumn tens of thousands of White Storks (left) and White Pelicans visit the Hula Valley. Against the backdrop of the

snow-covered peaks of the Hermon mountain range the birds circle to find thermals to lift them up in order to overcome the mountain massif on their northbound journey.

Accompanied by the plane carrying the photographer Great White Pelicans cross the Hula Nature Reserve, a remnant of the erstwhile Hula swamp 48

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New to Israel: 2011 saw the historic first brood of Black-shouldered Kites in Israel. The pioneer couple settled on an island in the Agmon Lake. Six pairs of these charismatic small birds of prey now breed in the region. Also many other regions of the country have been colonized in the past few years. 50

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Three species of Kingfishers can be observed in

Israel, reflecting its situation at the crossroads of

three continents. White-breasted Kingfisher (left),

Pied Kingfisher (top) and the European Kingfisher. The latter is a common passage migrant and

occasional summer visitor but does not breed in the country.

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The Greater Spotted Eagle is one of the rarest raptors in the world. Birds that breed in Eastern Europe and Russia spend the winter in the northern and central parts of Israel. In the Hula Valley Greater Spotted Eagles can be observed from November to March.

55

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Saddened farewell to a dead friend? Not at all: An Imperial Eagle

inspects the corpse of a young crane that was not up to the rigors

of his first migration and died of exhaustion. The Eagle lifts the head of the dead bird and lets him fall down again. Imperial and Greater

Spotted Eagles feed mainly on carrion in winter, rarely they also attack a weakened young crane. 56

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"Summit" of two of the rarest European birds. A young Imperial Eagle and an adult Greater Spotted Eagle compete for the best perch in a treetop. Despite its smaller size, the experienced adult eagle carries off the victory.

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The Hula Valley is home to a wide variety of passerine species. Cetti's Warbler (left) and Graceful Prinia are common throughout. 60

The Moustached Warbler is a rather uncommon breeding bird from the Mediterranean to Central Asia. The species is a regular migrant and winter visitor around the reedbeds of the Agmon.

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The Golan Heights

The famous Gamla National Park is home to bird species such as Griffon Vultures and Bonelli's

Eagles. The watery Golan plateau also feeds Israel's

Captured by Israel from Syria in the Six-Days

The Golan plateau is also an important

War in 1967 and annexed in 1981, the Golan

wintering area for European songbirds. From

Heights is a 1,200 square kilometer piece of land

October to April the area swarms with

that remains in political dispute. Much less

thousands upon thousands of European larks

known than its turbulent past is the importance

and finches. From the permanently windswept

of the area as an important refugium for many

plains of the Golan the Hermon massif rises

animal species. Sparsely populated but with

up to more than 2,200 meters above sea level.

an abundance of water, the volcanic plateau pro-

It is here, near the border with Syria, that the

vides ideal living conditions for many mammal

only breeding sites of some alpine bird species

species such as the Wolf, the Striped Hyena, the

such as the Shore Lark and the Crimson-winged

Wild Cat and the Rock Hyrax. But also many

Finch can be found in the country.

species of birds inhabit the vast stony plains and

To the west, the Golan Heights fall off to the Sea

steep gorges of the Golan Heights. The Gamla

of Galilee and the dominant lush green pastures,

Nature Reserve in the center of the Golan

olive groves and orchards are hunting and

Heights, for example, is - despite dramatic

breeding grounds for a considerable number of

losses in recent years - still an important bree-

Short-toed Eagles, Long-legged Buzzards,

ding area for many species of birds of prey,

Bee-Eaters and many other species. In recent

among them the Egyptian and Griffon Vultures

years, the Golan has also acquired an inter-

and the Bonelli's and Short-toed Eagles.

national reputation as a wine-growing region.

highest waterfall.

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The Golan Heights host one of the last breeding colonies of the Griffon Vulture in the region. Vultures easily cover distances of several hundreds of kilometers a day. In many cultures Vultures are a symbol of royalty and power.

This unfortunately does not protect them from human persecution. 65

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The Rufous Bush Robin is a bird typically found in dry open country with bushes and shrubs. In Israel it nests in most parts of the country except the open deserts.

Left | The Golan Heights are home to many species of raptors, such as the Long-legged Buzzard, that are rare elsewhere 66

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Bonelli's Eagles are among the great treasures of the Israeli wildlife. In Israel the Bonelli's Eagle can be found on the Golan Heights

as well as in the Judean and the Negev Deserts where it hunts mainly Rock Doves at an awe-inspiring pace.

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A rare but regular visitor to the Golan Heights

is the Black Vulture. The gigantic bird even dwarfs the Griffon Vulture in size.

The Golan Heights rise in gentle hills from the banks of the Sea of Gallilee 71

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The migration of the Lesser Spotted Eagles The Lesser Spotted Eagle is one of the most

birds take a break here to roost in forests before

enigmatic birds breeding in Europe. Confined

continuing their journey early next day. Nearly

to remote, old, large and untouched forests

100 percent of the entire global population of

surrounded by vast meadows, this bird is

the Lesser Spotted Eagle passes through Israel

struggling to cope with the ongoing intensifica-

within a very short period of time. Around 90

tion of land use throughout its breeding range.

percent of the passage takes place during a two-

Watching these eagles in one of their remaining

week period guaranteeing large concentrations

breeding areas is a real experience as it takes

of birds. In most years one quarter of all Lesser

the observer to those few beautiful places that

Spotted Eagles – about 25.000 birds – pass

remain unspoiled and where nature has been

within a single day in endless streams – a truly

preserved intact. The presence of an eagle is

breathtaking sight.

like an ecological seal of quality for the area.

The fact that the entire population of the Lesser

After completing their breeding these shy and

Spotted Eagle passes over Israel provides an

solitary birds unite with conspecifics from all

excellent opportunity to monitor population

over the breeding range and embark on a long

trends of an endangered species that is difficult

journey from Europe to spend the winter in

to track in many of its remote breeding areas.

the southern parts of Africa. And this is where

Annual counts of Lesser Spotted Eagles have

Israel comes into the game: Towards the end of

been conducted in Israel since the 1980s and

September and during the first week of October

thus far it seems that the global population of

large groups of Lesser Spotted Eagles fill the

this fascinating bird is quite stable at around

skies over the country on their way to Africa.

100,000 birds, equivalent to a global breeding

Hundreds, sometimes thousands of these rare

population of about 30,000 pairs.

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The Eagles arrive late in the afternoons at the forests they choose for the night roost and select a tree to sleep in. Often the Lesser Spotted Eagles share their roosting places with other raptors such as Short-toed Eagles.

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Hundreds of Lesser Spotted Eagles take to the air about an hour after sunrise

when the sun is strong enough to warm up the surface of the ground. Together they search for thermals that lift them up to higher altitudes and enable them to continue their migration.

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On their way over Israel Lesser Spotted Eagles pass villages and towns.

Near this Arab village in Northern Israel a small group of eagles settles for the night. 78

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Lesser Spotted Eagles are true globetrotters. They spend only about five months of the year in their breeding grounds. During this period they generally raise a single chick. 80

A juvenile Lesser Spotted Eagle roosts in a fig tree during its first migration from Europe to Africa. To save energy the birds migrate by soaring, their wings fanned out wide.

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Alone in the outland. A juvenile Lesser Spotted

Eagle is roosting in a tree far apart from the rest of its conspecifics.

Right | Lesser Spotted Eagles rarely hunt on

migration. But if there is an opportunity to feed it is usually not passed up.

83

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Lesser Spotted Eagles migrate at high altitudes during the daytime Right | A group of Lesser Spotted Eagles is approaching a forest that the birds choose to roost in for the night.

On angled wings, they descend from high altitude. 84

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The Bet-Shean Valley

During the migration seasons the Bet-Shean Valley is among the places with the most birds anywhere along the entire Rift Valley flyway. In

“If the Garden of Eden is in the land of Israel,

addition to thousands of White Pelicans, Great

then its gate is Bet Shean” are the immoral

White, Cattle and Little Egrets, the area is also

words written in the Talmud. Located near the

one of the most important stopover sites in the

3000 year-old town of Bet Shean, the valley is

world for White and Black Storks. In September

not a natural paradise in the original sense any-

and in April many tens of thousands of White

more. The abundance of water has made the

Storks can be encountered. Also the much rarer

region along the Jordan river a bustling center

Black Storks utilize the valley to roost and to

of modern agriculture and fisheries. Never-

forage before embarking on their perilious flight

theless, the region was given the sonorous

over the Sahara desert to their wintering

nickname "Eilat of the North“ by bird lovers –

quarters in southern Africa. A growing number

and for good reason.

of Black Storks spends the winter in the mild

While the skies over Eilat are filled with raptors,

climate of the Valley. The ornithologist Carsten

they are crowded with storks, pelicans and he-

Rohde counted no fewer than 8,700 migrating

rons in the Bet-Shean Valley. The Jordan River

Black Storks within one and a half hours here

served as a guiding line for migratory birds for

in 2008 - the largest flock of this species ever

thousands of years and the vast numbers of

recorded.

birds that pass here twice a year have become

The hot and humid climate of the Valley fits well

sometimes thousands

accustomed to the changing environment.

with the exotic birdlife that can be enjoyed here.

along the Bet-Shean Valley. In the background is the

They now look for food in the numerous fish

Three species of Bee-eaters nest and the mono-

Moab Mountains in Jordan.

ponds and agricultural fields instead of foraging

tonous call of the Black Francolin can be heard

in the extensive marshes that have vanished.

in spring from any of the numerous date groves.

White Storks roost in

groups of many hundreds,

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A flock of Great White Pelicans glide along the Jordan river that is shrouded by mist in the early morning 88

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Are the people in the buses aware of the White Storks migrating overhead? Storks cross mountains, villages, towns and roads on their way south.

A short break is used for preening. An intact plumage is essential for survival on migration.

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Migrating birds do not care about national boundaries. Their freedom to pay no attention to borders is part of the fascination that bird migration has on humans. The group of White Storks (left) is roosting in a dead tree on the Israeli site of the border with Jordan while the Black Storks choose to roost just behind the border fence on Jordanian soil. 92

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On migration birds from all over Europe and Asia meet in the Bet-Shean Valley. Little Egrets, Black Storks and Black-winged Stilts all look harmoniously for food and shelter in the shallow waters of the fish pools.

Right | A Black-winged Stilt foraging completely unimpressed by the presence of the Osprey that has interrupted its migration to drink

in a pool in the Bet-Shean Valley. 94

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Previous double page | Little Erget or Black Kite: The Bet-Shean Valley that is so rich with fish is of critical importance as a stepping stone for many migratory bird species.

Elegant beauties

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Face to face with the photographer: Intimate

close-up portraits of shy birds like this Black Stork

are only possible with extremely good camouflage. Left | Unmistakable: Black Storks migrating in a typical flight formation 100

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A group of Black Storks takes a break during its migration to drink and refresh in a fish pond in the Jordan Valley Left | Black Storks on migration along the Jordan Valley. The course of the Jordan river serves as a traditional guide line for bird migration over the Middle East. 102

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Young Black Storks shortly before they leave their nest in a remote forest in western Germany. Just weeks later they embark on a long

journey toward the south. In the Jordan Valley they meet conspecifics not older than themselves from other countries (above).

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Waders from many countries roost in the Bet-Shean Valley to refuel for the rest of their route. Black-winged Stilts (left), Marsh Sandpiper (above left) and Redshank. 106

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The Judean and Negev Deserts It is late afternoon in the desert and it is still

These storks are just about to finish their long

oppressively hot. But the changing color tones

journey, a draining flight over the hot Sinai

of the cliffs off at a distance are a harbinger of

Peninsula in which they covered several

the cooler evening hours on the way: the white

hundred kilometers per day. Here in the north-

cliffs are starting to give way to a softer cream

western part of the Negev Desert they have

color. The heat is also on the retreat, although

once again reached a region, for the first time

that is barely perceptible at this point. There is

after having crossed the Sahara, that is

nevertheless change in the air and this is the

influenced by the Mediterranean climate. The

time to look for newcomers.

area holds promise of more vegetation and thus food for the migrating birds. The flock has

Suddenly, high in the sky, a strange cloud

chosen a dry river bed, a wadi, to roost for

approaches. It is a cloud that is losing altitude

the night.

quickly. The "cloud" turns out to be a flock of

The masses of birds land on a small sand

White Storks -- there are probably several

dune just beyond the Egyptian border to Israel.

The Ramon Crater ist he

thousand of them circling around their own axis,

Dusk has started already by now. The birds

losing altitude with each downturn. The descent

decide to change the location and then resettle

was created by erosion.

from their "cruising altitude“ takes nearly half

somewhere safer – and an amazing spectacle

Located at the peak of Mount

an hour. As they gradually descend, thousands

starts. In low flight, against a sky colored

Negev it is 40 kilometers long, up to 10 kilometers wide and

of storks are scanning the area below, searching

in deep orange by the disappearing sun, thou-

500 meters deep.

for a safe place to spend the night after a day

sands of storks take off almost at once and fly

of energy-sapping migration.

towards a small water reservoir in the dry

world’s largest crater that

108

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desert. Here they gather shoulder to shoulder

become extinct elsewhere in the Middle East.

in the shallow water. The birds spend some time

During migration seasons, several hundreds

preening while the stream of laggards slowly

of thousands of White Storks, White Pelicans,

thins out in the final twilight of an unforgettable

Honey and Steppe Buzzards and many other

day. Early the next morning the storks continue

bird species cross the region. Additionally the

their journey towards Europe, leaving the desert

Judean Desert and the Negev Highland harbor

empty as if the stopover of thousands of birds

many rare raptor species such as the Sooty

in the middle of the desert were nothing but a

and Lanner Falcons, the Golden and Bonelli’s

mirage.

Eagles and the Griffon and Egyptian Vultures.

The Deserts of Israel are unique places. For scores of kilometers, for as far as the eye can see, there is nothing but rocks and sand that merge in the distant horizon. It is a region of still pure, pristine beauty of nature. It is impossible not to be impressed, even deeply moved, by the endless expanse, the heat in the summer, the cold in the winter. The terrific starry sky is a worthy substitute for the city lights. Although deserts account for about two-thirds of the entire Israeli territory, only about ten percent of its inhabitants live here. Thus, the sparsely populated region also is a haven for many resident bird species that have

110

An adult Eastern Imperial Eagle has chosen an

enormous Eucalyptus tree

with a panorama view close to border with the Gaza

strip in the Western Negev as its night roost

111

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Previous double page | Grand Rock Desert: Wadi Zin near Sde Boker Three symbols of the Negev desert: A Nubian Ibex glances off into the distance

in front of the characteristic top of the Hod Akev. The population of the Arabian Wolf in the remote deserts of southern Israel has remained stable.

115

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A displaying male Macqueen's Bustard. Poaching and falconry has taken this crown jewel of Middle Eastern wildlife to the brink of extinction in large parts of the Arabian Peninsula. In Israel a small population inhabits the border region with the Sinai Peninsula. 116

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Cream-colored Cursors (above) and Scrub Warblers are typical inhabitants of the southern deserts of Israel 118

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Sooty Falcons inhabit the most remote canyons of the deserts where they feed mainly on birds. They are long-distance migrants, wintering in east Africa and south to Madagascar.

121

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Two chicks of the Sooty Falcon on the day of their fledging. A third sibling has already left the nest. 122

During the breeding season Sooty Falcons hunt tirelessly to find food to feed the chicks.

Their slim and long wings enable Sooty Falcons to chase and even capture other flight artists like Swifts and Swallows. 123

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Wadi Kelt near Jerusalem in the Palestinian autonomous territories is one of the

most beautiful places in the Judean Desert. The Egyptian Vulture, a bird that faces global extinction, manages to maintain a stable population here. 124

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A number of clouds over the desert offer an enchanting view, casting some shadow over the landscape. Left | Threatened beauty: The water level of the Dead Sea is shrinking at an alarming pace that can create dangerous sinkholes. 126

127

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Blackstarts (above) are bold and curious small birds of the desert regions, fanning their tail and wings each time they move. Tristram's Starlings have expanded their range in Israel considerably within the last years. 128

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An encounter with the mystical Desert Tawny

Owl in a starry night in the Judean Desert is surely one of Israel’s most exciting adverntures on offer 130

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Masters of the sky: Bonelli's Eagles hunt doves and other birds at a tearing pace.

Only a handful pairs of this bird species that is facing a global decline in numbers breed in Israel.

132

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A party of White Storks land in the desert, ending a day's journey of several hundred kilometers 134

135

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In a shallow water reservoir, a group of densely packed White Storks goes to

roost. Here they meet other globetrotters such as these Little Stints. These tiny waders breed in Siberia and winter in Africa.

137

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Sociable Plovers rank among the rarest of bird species in the world. Only in a handful of places in winter can you observe more than a single individual. The Western Negev is one of these wintering territories. 138

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Weeks after heavy rainfalls the desert comes alive. Plants start to flower and insects appear

from seemingly nowhere, providing a welcome source of precious food for birds and other

animals. The Thick-billed Larks roam the deserts of the Middle East to find places where rain

turned the desert into a blossoming landscape. Here they mate and raise chicks within only a

handful of days to take advantage of the elusive food supply. 140

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Also migratory birds profit from the extra food supply a blossoming desert

offers. Birds on migration need to adapt to environments unknown to them and very different from their typical habitats. The Rock Trush usually lives in lush high altitude habitats and needs to cope with the desert on its journey home.

Cretzschmar's Buntings (above) also enjoy the additional food during their stopover on migration to their breeding territories. 142

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Always on guard: A family of Sand Partridges. Right | Crown jewel of the Israeli deserts: A Hoopoe Lark performs its melancholic song in flight. 144

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Four different species of Sandgrouses occur in

Israel. Like the Crowned Sandgrouses (left) they all come to drink every day at specific times at

traditional spots. Rarely seen during the daytime

are Lichtenstein's Sandgrouses. Their range in Israel is restricted to a few wadis in the southern Arava Valley and they are thus among the rarest birds in the country. Despite their colorful plumage,

the males of the Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse (top) are also genuine camouflage artists, and this is especially the case for the females (right).

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Water means life in the desert. Migratory birds, like the female Blackcap (left) and the male

Ruppell's Warbler, are dependent on any source of water they can find.

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The Arava Valley and Eilat From the Negev plateau, the road to Eilat, the

due north through the Arava Valley towards

southernmost city of Israel, winds down through

their final destinations.

seemingly endless stone deserts and then finally,

Just a few kilometers away from the hustle and

after yet one more sharp bend, the Arava Valley

bustle of the tourist metropolis of Eilat, a

opens in all its breathtaking beauty. A small strip

morning spent up in the nearby Eilat Mountains

of desert, bordered by the Negev mountains to

can be tantamount to the experience of a a life-

the west and the Jordanian Edom Mountains

time for nature lovers. Thousands of raptors –

to the east, the Arava Valley stretches from the

Steppe and Honey Buzzards, Booted and Steppe

Dead Sea to the Gulf of Eilat. Along some

Eagles and many others – can be observed mi-

sections in the southernmost part of Israel the

grating low overhead or searching for wind ther-

Rift Valley is just a few kilometers wide and

mals in order to continue their migration along

it’s here that its function as a guiding line for

the peaks and slopes of the mountains just up-

migrating birds becomes really apparent.

stream of Eilat. The eagles are often accompa-

Concentrations of birds utilizing the Rift Valley

nied by Black and White Storks, Sparrowhawks,

can be absolutely staggering. On some days

Levant Sparrowhawks, Swifts and Swallows and

during the peak of spring migration an

many other species. Many migrating birds roost

interminable stream of birds poors out over the

in the wadis of the Arava Valley, some for only a

An Osprey is roosting in an Acacia tree in the

valley. Avoiding the open water, birds of prey,

few hours or even minutes, others for perhaps

middle of the Arava desert - far away from its

usual habitat on lakesides. Ospreys feed exclusively

storks and also many smaller birds cross the Red

a day or two. The date plantations and reservoirs

on fish that are not available here.

Sea at its northwestern tip at the Gulf of Eilat

in the valley can be a real treasure chest for

on their way from Africa to Europe and continue

birdwatchers.

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View into the Arava Valley from the Negev Plateau. The fields and gardens of the few agricultural settlements provide welcome sources of food for many

migratory birds. The entire length of the Arava Valley forms parts of the globally important Rift Valley Flyway. In the background the Edom Mountains in Jordan shine in the evening sun. 152

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A Wadi in the Arava Valley. The smallest streamlets can turn into a band of life

after some rain. Acacia trees are particularly important food sources for animals. Migrating songbirds like the Subalpine Warbler take advantage of even the sparsest desert vegetation to search for food.

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Curious and bold: Two Sinai Rosefinches approach the (hidden) camera. Previous double page | Some amazingly colourful birds inhabit the deserts. A pair of Sinai Rosefinches is inspecting its territory. 158

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An Isabelline Wheatear has chosen a dead tree stump to use as its lookout 160

Prefers it a bit more remote. A juvenile White-crowned Wheatear is hovering over a small source of water. 161

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More than 100 Greater Flamingos spend the winter in the salt ponds just north of Eilat. In the background is the airport of Akaba in Jordan. 162

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The popular tourist destination of Eilat borders the Red Sea and the Eilat Mountains. In spring this is the place to be to witness the mass migration of many thousands of raptors. 164

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The small city parks of Eilat are favorite hunting grounds for a rich variety of migrating birds. The Cyprus Warbler (right) is an endemic

breeding bird to Cyprus but a regular visitor to

Israel on passage. The Lesser Whitethroat (above) is one of the most common passage migrants in Israel and also the Ruppell's Warbler (left) can

be observed while having a coffee in one of the park's cafes. 166

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Slender-billed Gulls flying on the Red Sea with Eilat in the background Right | Triple-digit numbers of Greater Flamingos winter in the lagoon's of Eilat 168

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Western Reef Herons breed in the southern part of the Sinai Peninsula. They are regular vistors to the Red Sea shore of Eilat.

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During migration periods some of the rarest and most beautiful birds of the western hemisphere can appear virtually out of nowhere. They often stay

only for a few hours before continuing their long way back home to the Asian

steppes or the remote forests in Eastern Europe. Among the most spectacular is the Caspian Plover (left) that breeds around the Caspian Sea and in Central Asia. More regular the Collared Pratincole is encountered.

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Acknowledgements

Cranes are flying in front of the Hermon Mountains which mark the Israeli-Syrian border . Only a few kilometers away from this idyll the

Syrian civil war has been raging for years. 174

This book would never have been produced

Together with Asaf Mayrose, Yoav Perlman,

without the support of countless people. From

Meidad Goren, Nadav Israeli, Itai Shanni, Dotan

the first moment of my new life as “bird tou-

Yosha, Lior Kislev, Frank Moffatt, Barak Granit,

rist“, the Israeli Ornithological Committee (IOC)

Daniel Blumenfeld and Shachar Alterman,

within the Society of the Protection of Nature

I spent countless memorable days in the field.

in Israel adopted me as one of their own. The

Ze’ev Labinger, Noam Weiss, David Schoenfeld,

most skillful experts of Israeli birdlife altruisti-

Benny Shalmon, Yoram Yom-Tov, Eli Haviv and

cally shared the knowledge and expertise with

Yosef Kiat supported me with their expertise.

me that they have acquired over many long

Israel's leading nature photographers Yoram

years of hard and determined work.

Shpirer, Rony Livne and Amir Ben-Dov

Jonathan Meyrav, with whom the idea of a book

unselfishly shared their knowledge of the best

was first hatched, introduced me to the secrets

places and the presence of the rarest birds

of the Israeli birdlife during our unforgettable

with me and became good friends as we sat

tours across the country. Dan Alon, head of the

together for many hours in desert wadis, forests

IOC and once called a „Hero of the Planet“ by

and sometimes also smelly sewage pools.

Time magazine and Yossi Leshem, the tireless

The same goes for Klaus Bjerre, to whom I wish

“Mr. Bird“ of Israel, opened the flood-gates for

success for his own book on birds in Israel.

me and made everything I asked for possible.

I thank the Israeli Nature and Parks Authority

Among many other things they helped me to

and the responsible persons in the various

turn a lifelong dream into reality – to accompany

National Parks for the trustful cooperation and

flocks of migrating birds in an airplane.

the grant of permits: Ohad Hatzofe, Yifat Artzi,

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Assaf Tzoar, Amiram Cohen and Yvgeni Kaminsk. I am also grateful to the managers and the staff of the Agmon-Hula-Park Zvika Aylon, Inbar Rubin, Kobi Samarano, Eli Galili along with many others who helped with this project. I would also like to thank the members of Kibbuz Lotan and David Glasner of Kibbuz Kfar Ruppin for their support as well as Erik Kirschbaum and Frank Moffatt, who helped edit the manuscript. Without the generous financial support of the Hoopoe Foundation within the Society of the Protection for Nature in Israel, this book could not have been published: Toda raba!

And last but not least I am especially grateful to my partner Bertille Grivet, who quite literally lets me migrate with the birds whenever the urge to fly south grips me and ’Zugunruhe’ takes hold of me.

176

The White-tailed Eagle that has become extinct after the drainage of the Hula Valley has been reintroduced succesfully in 2015.

Right | Newest member of the Israeli breeding avifauna: Several pairs of the Black Bush Robin were found breeding in the Arava Valley in spring 2015.

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English Edition Birds In The Holy Land – A Photographic Journey Through Israel / Thomas Krumenacker NATURBLICK Peter Scherbuk Verlag, Duesseldorf 2016 1st edition Summer 2016

Copyright ® 2016 by

NATURBLICK Peter Scherbuk Verlag Haubachweg 16 · D-40625 Duesseldorf/Germany e-mail: [email protected] · www.naturblick.com Photos and text: Thomas Krumenacker Layout: Peter Scherbuk und Thomas Krumenacker Graphic design and type setting: NATURBLICK Peter Scherbuk Verlag & Agentur für visuelle Kommunikation, Duesseldorf/Germany Produced in Germany

All parts of this book are prodected by copyright. The permission of the publisher must be sought for any copyright-protected utilization of this book; failure to do so is inadmissible an subject to prosecution. This applies in particular to duplications, microfilming and editing in electronic systems.