24 Hours in Montreal
Around the Globe
24 HOURS IN...
MONTREAL By Amanda Lee
You could spend days exploring Montreal, Quebec and still not absorb all of its culture. So, what should you do if you’ve only got one day? To make the most of a short visit, here’s a suggested itinerary designed to take in just some of the art, history and food this cosmopolitan French Canadian city has to offer.
6a.m.
7a.m.
9a.m.
10 a.m.
10:30a.m.
Get an early start to your day with Montreal bagels so fresh, steam is still rising off of them. St-Viateur isn’t the oldest bagel shop in Montreal (it’s only been around since 1957) but they’ve perfected their craft. Montreal bagels are boiled in honey-flavoured water, then baked over hardwood embers and pulled from the oven on a long wooden paddle. These types of bagels are sweeter and chewier than their New York counterparts, and smaller too – which justifies smearing not one, but two, with cream cheese.
Pack up your bagels and head to Mount Royal where you can catch the sunrise over a panoramic view of Montreal from Kondiaronk lookout. Known colloquially as “the mountain,” Mount Royal Park was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted (also famous for New York’s Central Park). The sprawling park and mountain is utilized year-round by Montrealers, whether jogging, picnicking or cross-country skiing. If it’s cold out, warm up by the fire in the Chalet du Mont-Royal by the lookout (opens at 8 a.m.).
Even if Gothic Revival architecture isn’t your thing, take the first tour of the day at Notre-Dame Basilica, in the heart of Vieux Port (“Old Port”). Originally founded in 1642, the present day Basilica was rebuilt in the 1820s on the site of the original church. Stained glass windows were added some 100 years later, depicting the history of Montreal, and a Casavant Frères organ, comprised of 7,000 pipes, now presides over the Basilica. Notre-Dame is also the church where Quebec celebrity Celine Dion was married. Tours are offered in French and English.
While you’re in Old Montreal, pop into Olive + Gourmando for a cappuccino, along with a maple and pecan brioche if you’re feeling peckish. The eclectic café has had a loyal following among Montrealers for over a decade.
There’s no shortage of art galleries and museums in Montreal. Hop on the Metro subway and head to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. A vibrant Chihuly sculpture hangs in the front entrance and the galleries include ancient and contemporary European art (by artists including Rembrandt, Picasso and Monet), as well as a robust collection of Canadian art. The museum showcases several major exhibitions a year, including the current Peter Doig exhibit (until May 4, 2014). Access to the permanent collection is free. Lovers of contemporary art should head to Musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal (MAC) in Place des Arts complex. The small-but-impressive gallery houses a collection of temporary exhibits, including Lives in Transit by Albanian artist, Adrian Paci — examining historical and political upheavals in Eastern Europe, through the lens of his own experience. There’s also a lovely restaurant, The Contemporary, on the first floor of the museum.
1p.m.
2:30p.m.
5p.m.
8p.m.
11p.m.
2a.m.
Table of Contents
Where else should you go for lunch but Schwartz’s, the oldest deli in Canada? You’ll recognize this hole-in-the-wall deli by the long line that snakes along Boulevard Saint-Laurent. Schwartz’s Deli has been making smoked meat sandwiches for more than 80 years. On a busy day, the restaurant says they’ll go through one tonne of brisket, which has been marinated for days in herbs and spices before it’s smoked. Schwartz’s menu may be small, but people go there for the smoked meat on rye with a combination of fries, homemade pickles and coleslaw. The deli walls displays the many celebrities who’ve visited this famous diner.
Head back to Old Montreal to learn about the birthplace of this city at Pointe-àCallière Museum of Archaeology and History. Pointe-à-Callière —largely below ground—is the actual archeological site where Montreal began and houses the city’s first Catholic cemetery, sewer system, and market place. The museum is a fascinating journey through six centuries of the city’s history, from the early days, through to the first European settlers, up to the present day. Interactive exhibits let you see what life was like in Montreal in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Walk across the road and unwind at the Scandinave Les Bains Vieux-Montreal. An “oasis urbain,” the spa is compact and contemporary in design. Between circuits of hot therapy (like eucalyptus steam room, hot bath and Finnish sauna) and cold, don your robe and recline on a beanbag. The health bar can whip you up a delicious smoothie, or you can sip complimentary herbal tea. Word of warning: enter the serenity of the Zero Stress Room and you’ll likely find yourself in the land of nod.
There is no shortage of excellent food in this city. One restaurant that gets it right without pretence is Lawrence, in Montreal’s Mile End. The small restaurant seats just 40 at wooden tables and has a British pub feel. London-born chef Marc Cohen serves up a menu that includes a nod to Britain, like roast lamb leg, carrots, vermouth, and tarragon, followed by steamed marmalade pudding.
If you’re looking to make a night of it, the stylish Baldwin Barmacie bar is where Montreal’s beautiful people flock. The apothecary-themed bar pays homage to the tiny nearby pharmacy the owner’s grandmother once ran (her portrait hangs on the wall). Drinks include old fashioned cocktails and a killer bourbon punch served in vintage milk jugs and syrup bottles. DJs spin vinyl tracks until 3 a.m.
Could there be a better time to indulge in Quebec’s contribution to global cuisine than when Montreal’s bars and clubs wind down? For the uninitiated, poutine (an Acadian slang word for “gooey mess”) was invented in northwest Quebec in the 1950s and consists of french fries dressed with gravy and cheese curds. The tightly packed hipster hangout, La Banquise, is open 24 hours and serves 30 types of poutine, including The Kamikaze (sausage, peppers and Tabasco). Wash it down with a local craft beer.
NEXT Forget Paris
24 HOURS IN...
MONTREAL By Amanda Lee
You could spend days exploring Montreal, Quebec and still not absorb all of its culture. So, what should you do if you’ve only got one day? To make the most of a short visit, here’s a suggested itinerary designed to take in just some of the art, history and food this cosmopolitan French Canadian city has to offer.
6a.m.
7a.m.
9a.m.
10 a.m.
10:30a.m.
Get an early start to your day with Montreal bagels so fresh, steam is still rising off of them. St-Viateur isn’t the oldest bagel shop in Montreal (it’s only been around since 1957) but they’ve perfected their craft. Montreal bagels are boiled in honey-flavoured water, then baked over hardwood embers and pulled from the oven on a long wooden paddle. These types of bagels are sweeter and chewier than their New York counterparts, and smaller too – which justifies smearing not one, but two, with cream cheese.
Pack up your bagels and head to Mount Royal where you can catch the sunrise over a panoramic view of Montreal from Kondiaronk lookout. Known colloquially as “the mountain,” Mount Royal Park was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted (also famous for New York’s Central Park). The sprawling park and mountain is utilized year-round by Montrealers, whether jogging, picnicking or cross-country skiing. If it’s cold out, warm up by the fire in the Chalet du Mont-Royal by the lookout (opens at 8 a.m.).
Even if Gothic Revival architecture isn’t your thing, take the first tour of the day at Notre-Dame Basilica, in the heart of Vieux Port (“Old Port”). Originally founded in 1642, the present day Basilica was rebuilt in the 1820s on the site of the original church. Stained glass windows were added some 100 years later, depicting the history of Montreal, and a Casavant Frères organ, comprised of 7,000 pipes, now presides over the Basilica. Notre-Dame is also the church where Quebec celebrity Celine Dion was married. Tours are offered in French and English.
While you’re in Old Montreal, pop into Olive + Gourmando for a cappuccino, along with a maple and pecan brioche if you’re feeling peckish. The eclectic café has had a loyal following among Montrealers for over a decade.
There’s no shortage of art galleries and museums in Montreal. Hop on the Metro subway and head to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. A vibrant Chihuly sculpture hangs in the front entrance and the galleries include ancient and contemporary European art (by artists including Rembrandt, Picasso and Monet), as well as a robust collection of Canadian art. The museum showcases several major exhibitions a year, including the current Peter Doig exhibit (until May 4, 2014). Access to the permanent collection is free. Lovers of contemporary art should head to Musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal (MAC) in Place des Arts complex. The small-but-impressive gallery houses a collection of temporary exhibits, including Lives in Transit by Albanian artist, Adrian Paci — examining historical and political upheavals in Eastern Europe, through the lens of his own experience. There’s also a lovely restaurant, The Contemporary, on the first floor of the museum.
1p.m.
2:30p.m.
5p.m.
8p.m.
11p.m.
2a.m.
Table of Contents
Where else should you go for lunch but Schwartz’s, the oldest deli in Canada? You’ll recognize this hole-in-the-wall deli by the long line that snakes along Boulevard Saint-Laurent. Schwartz’s Deli has been making smoked meat sandwiches for more than 80 years. On a busy day, the restaurant says they’ll go through one tonne of brisket, which has been marinated for days in herbs and spices before it’s smoked. Schwartz’s menu may be small, but people go there for the smoked meat on rye with a combination of fries, homemade pickles and coleslaw. The deli walls displays the many celebrities who’ve visited this famous diner.
Head back to Old Montreal to learn about the birthplace of this city at Pointe-àCallière Museum of Archaeology and History. Pointe-à-Callière —largely below ground—is the actual archeological site where Montreal began and houses the city’s first Catholic cemetery, sewer system, and market place. The museum is a fascinating journey through six centuries of the city’s history, from the early days, through to the first European settlers, up to the present day. Interactive exhibits let you see what life was like in Montreal in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Walk across the road and unwind at the Scandinave Les Bains Vieux-Montreal. An “oasis urbain,” the spa is compact and contemporary in design. Between circuits of hot therapy (like eucalyptus steam room, hot bath and Finnish sauna) and cold, don your robe and recline on a beanbag. The health bar can whip you up a delicious smoothie, or you can sip complimentary herbal tea. Word of warning: enter the serenity of the Zero Stress Room and you’ll likely find yourself in the land of nod.
There is no shortage of excellent food in this city. One restaurant that gets it right without pretence is Lawrence, in Montreal’s Mile End. The small restaurant seats just 40 at wooden tables and has a British pub feel. London-born chef Marc Cohen serves up a menu that includes a nod to Britain, like roast lamb leg, carrots, vermouth, and tarragon, followed by steamed marmalade pudding.
If you’re looking to make a night of it, the stylish Baldwin Barmacie bar is where Montreal’s beautiful people flock. The apothecary-themed bar pays homage to the tiny nearby pharmacy the owner’s grandmother once ran (her portrait hangs on the wall). Drinks include old fashioned cocktails and a killer bourbon punch served in vintage milk jugs and syrup bottles. DJs spin vinyl tracks until 3 a.m.
Could there be a better time to indulge in Quebec’s contribution to global cuisine than when Montreal’s bars and clubs wind down? For the uninitiated, poutine (an Acadian slang word for “gooey mess”) was invented in northwest Quebec in the 1950s and consists of french fries dressed with gravy and cheese curds. The tightly packed hipster hangout, La Banquise, is open 24 hours and serves 30 types of poutine, including The Kamikaze (sausage, peppers and Tabasco). Wash it down with a local craft beer.
NEXT Forget Paris
