5 departures-international.com 5 departures-international.com
Head chef Huynh Thanh Phuc at his Japanese eatery Tama River; opposite: fresh prosciutto pizza at the Mediterranean-inspired Mekong Merchant
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departures-international.com
Contact platinum card service for bookings
H C M C’s
AN PHU
G
D
U R O I V N E
Secluded from the bustle of Vietnam’s largest city, the leafy, riverside enclave is quietly upping its culinary credentials, as Gemma Price reports photographs by Frederik Wissink
Contact platinum card service for bookings
departures-international.com
6
t
he sprawling, 7m-strong metropolis formally known as Saigon is nothing if not a dizzying, electric answer to the fast-paced challenge posed by its accelerating, upwardly mobile neighbours. Which means tucking into An Phu feels like stepping into an oasis. While expansive gated villas and guarded compounds, formerly rented out to high-flying execs on beefy expat packages, might still be the heart of the area, the last few years have seen design boutiques, day spas, cosy bars and casual eateries with public pools proliferate alongside more cosmopolitan fine dining restaurants to make this – part of Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2 suburb – a destination in its own right. The French lost their political clout across Vietnam in 1954 but the influence of the country’s colons can be seen everywhere in the centre of the city. Here, across the river it’s no different. French chatter can be heard in every café, and local eateries run the gamut from charcoal-toasted bánh mì baguette sandwiches served on the street (try the hole-in-the-wall at 27 Quoc Huong that bakes its own bread) to cuisine bourgeoise. At the aptly named French colonial-inspired La Villa, a former family residence located in the An Phu Superior Compound, patrons can enjoy chef Thierry Mounon’s fine Gallic imports and the best of the local markets by the pool or in air-conditioned comfort. Meanwhile at Trois tucking into Gourmands, or 3G, the pages of AN PHU FEELs LIKE chef, sommelier and host Gils Brault’s extensive menu groan STEPPING into beneath the weight of home-spun dishes guaranteed to delight traditionalists and worry the weight conscious: foie gras is fashioned into everything from nem, fried spring rolls, to the crowns for tender joues de boeuf; lobster is reimagined with anything from artichoke to homemade ravioli; and locust wood-smoked salmon is served with truffled cheese, both home-made. His seven-course prix fixe taster menu with wine pairings from a selection of 180-or-so bottles – many hand-carried into the country by his impassioned following – is an absolute must. Vietnam’s fast-developing economy is a cauldron of possibilities for entrepreneurs to get ideas off the ground, and many businesspeople living within the An Phu community have diversified their interests to indulge their passion for good food. Lawson Johnson originally came to Vietnam to craft encaustic tiles, ceramics and furnishings (available to purchase at District 1 concept store Gaya), but 15 years on he is also involved in a handful of bars and restaurants. One is Mekong Merchant, a homely indoor-outdoor all-day thatched dining mecca famed for its Mediterranean platters and tapenades, barbecue peppered squid and prawns from southern island Phu Quoc, gourmet pizzas, sumptuous sandwiches and gargantuan salads packed with ingredients like Serrano ham, chilli coriander chicken, chargrilled swordfish, sticky fig, hot sour vegetables and lemongrass. Another is The Deck, an airy, open-plan restaurant with the most jawdropping view in town. “There [were] really no nice restaurants on the river in Saigon,” says Johnson, who designed the project as he was building it. “I really wanted to make use of the Saigon River [but] you’re not allowed within 40 metres of it unless there’s an existing building, so
1
an oasis
7
departures-international.com
3
RODNEY SMITH
1 Delectably simple vegetarian fare at Banian Tree 2 Curated selection of vintages at 3G 3 Owner Jim Cawood at his restaurant, Lu Bu 4 Immaculate set-up at Banian Tree 5 The Happy Hour menu, and a peek inside Mekong Merchant 6 Inviting outside area at 3G 7 La Villa chef and owner Thierry Mounon 8 Prawn dish at Tama River
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RODNEY SMITH
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departures-international.com
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UR
ES-inter
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r
Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien; +84 8 744 4713 The Deck Nguyen U Di; +84 8 3744 6632; thedecksaigon.com
CHIISANA HASHI
170 Nguyen Van Huong; +84 8 6683 5309; khaisilkcorp.com Banian Tree 170 Nguyen Van Huong; +84 8 6683 5309; khaisilkcorp.com Lu Bu 97 B Thao Dien; +84 8 62818371; luburestaurant.com Tama River 14E1 Thao Dien; +84 8 37 44 67 82
Contact platinum card service for bookings
see mo
Trois Gourmands (3g) 39 Tran Ngoc Dien; +84 8 3744 4585; 3gourmandsaigon.com
m
departures-international.com
La Villa 14 Ngo Quang Huy; +84 8 3898 2082; lavilla-restaurant.com.vn
co
9
Address Book
nal.
Check out Ho Chi Minh City’s hottest new hostelries online
io at
I built a solid structure under the roof of a large shed.” The deck overlooking the weedknotted waters is, of course, the main draw. To one side, bartenders craft peach and cardamom Bellinis and dragonfruit margaritas – devised by renowned New York mixologist Joseph Barowski – atop a marble and granite bar. On the other, waiters ferry Executive Chef Cao Lam Gia’s contemporary Asian-fusion dishes like galangal-infused caramelised salmon, chargrilled lamb fillet kushiyaki and chargrilled Phu Quoc prawns from kitchen to table. Such geographic eclecticism is the norm in An Phu. Witness home-grown luxury brand Khai Silk, whose namesake, Hoang Khai, operates two distinctive dining concepts, each paying homage to flamboyant interiors and impeccable cuisine in equal measure. Japanese restaurant Chiisana Hashi serves typical Nippon-centric fare while Banian Tree purveys traditional Vietnamese dishes in a setting evoking the spirit of Vietnam’s former feudal capital. Elaborately carved screen doors reflect the architectural style of the time and walls painted a deep purple – the former colour of the Emperor – recall the shade of traditional ao dai dress favoured by Hue women. At newly opened Lu Bu, or “hectic” in Vietnamese, the setting is a bit more roughly hewn – whitewashed walls perfectly
n
D E PA RT at
Clockwise from left: Japanese art at Tama River; al fresco dining on the Saigon River at The Deck; eclectic decor at Banian Tree; opposite: La Villa appetizer
complement signature dishes from the panMediterranean menu, which counts Balkan, Turkish, Middle-Eastern and North African influences. Among the highlights are seared swordfish with steamed potatoes, squash, tomato frito and bacon jam and harissa beetroot-cured salmon with pine nuts, pink grapefruit and beetroot chips – and, like many of their culinary counterparts in An Phu, everything at Lu Bu is made from scratch. “All breads, yoghurts, cheeses, pastas and pickles are made on-site,” says Jim Cawood, who along with Kylie Michelle owns not only the restaurant but also longestablished wine shop-cum-eatery Vino, with locations in both District 1 and An Phu. The former is home to most of the city’s Japanese eateries – the contingent make up the lion’s share of HCMC’s expat community – but An Phu’s newly opened Tama River is garnering rave reviews. Owner Seck Yee Chung ensured that the menu leans heavily on classics – sashimi, sushi, hot pots – but gives the kitchen space to “explore and roll out different ingredients and combinations to keep the offerings lively, which have ranged from uni (sea urchin) wrapped in white fish and grilled salmon fin, to soups poured out of a mini teapot”. Just further evidence that An Phu’s community spirit, market-fresh fare and relaxed ambience are combining to create a dining scene that’s truly world-class. ♦
An Phu’s community
RODNEY SMITH
spirit is truly world class
departures-international.com
10
5
departures-international.com
Contact platinum card service for bookings
H C M C’s
AN PHU
G
D
U R O I V N E
Secluded from the bustle of Vietnam’s largest city, the leafy, riverside enclave is quietly upping its culinary credentials, as Gemma Price reports photographs by Frederik Wissink
Contact platinum card service for bookings
departures-international.com
6
t
he sprawling, 7m-strong metropolis formally known as Saigon is nothing if not a dizzying, electric answer to the fast-paced challenge posed by its accelerating, upwardly mobile neighbours. Which means tucking into An Phu feels like stepping into an oasis. While expansive gated villas and guarded compounds, formerly rented out to high-flying execs on beefy expat packages, might still be the heart of the area, the last few years have seen design boutiques, day spas, cosy bars and casual eateries with public pools proliferate alongside more cosmopolitan fine dining restaurants to make this – part of Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2 suburb – a destination in its own right. The French lost their political clout across Vietnam in 1954 but the influence of the country’s colons can be seen everywhere in the centre of the city. Here, across the river it’s no different. French chatter can be heard in every café, and local eateries run the gamut from charcoal-toasted bánh mì baguette sandwiches served on the street (try the hole-in-the-wall at 27 Quoc Huong that bakes its own bread) to cuisine bourgeoise. At the aptly named French colonial-inspired La Villa, a former family residence located in the An Phu Superior Compound, patrons can enjoy chef Thierry Mounon’s fine Gallic imports and the best of the local markets by the pool or in air-conditioned comfort. Meanwhile at Trois tucking into Gourmands, or 3G, the pages of AN PHU FEELs LIKE chef, sommelier and host Gils Brault’s extensive menu groan STEPPING into beneath the weight of home-spun dishes guaranteed to delight traditionalists and worry the weight conscious: foie gras is fashioned into everything from nem, fried spring rolls, to the crowns for tender joues de boeuf; lobster is reimagined with anything from artichoke to homemade ravioli; and locust wood-smoked salmon is served with truffled cheese, both home-made. His seven-course prix fixe taster menu with wine pairings from a selection of 180-or-so bottles – many hand-carried into the country by his impassioned following – is an absolute must. Vietnam’s fast-developing economy is a cauldron of possibilities for entrepreneurs to get ideas off the ground, and many businesspeople living within the An Phu community have diversified their interests to indulge their passion for good food. Lawson Johnson originally came to Vietnam to craft encaustic tiles, ceramics and furnishings (available to purchase at District 1 concept store Gaya), but 15 years on he is also involved in a handful of bars and restaurants. One is Mekong Merchant, a homely indoor-outdoor all-day thatched dining mecca famed for its Mediterranean platters and tapenades, barbecue peppered squid and prawns from southern island Phu Quoc, gourmet pizzas, sumptuous sandwiches and gargantuan salads packed with ingredients like Serrano ham, chilli coriander chicken, chargrilled swordfish, sticky fig, hot sour vegetables and lemongrass. Another is The Deck, an airy, open-plan restaurant with the most jawdropping view in town. “There [were] really no nice restaurants on the river in Saigon,” says Johnson, who designed the project as he was building it. “I really wanted to make use of the Saigon River [but] you’re not allowed within 40 metres of it unless there’s an existing building, so
1
an oasis
7
departures-international.com
3
RODNEY SMITH
1 Delectably simple vegetarian fare at Banian Tree 2 Curated selection of vintages at 3G 3 Owner Jim Cawood at his restaurant, Lu Bu 4 Immaculate set-up at Banian Tree 5 The Happy Hour menu, and a peek inside Mekong Merchant 6 Inviting outside area at 3G 7 La Villa chef and owner Thierry Mounon 8 Prawn dish at Tama River
2
6
4 5
7
RODNEY SMITH
8
departures-international.com
8
UR
ES-inter
e
r
Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien; +84 8 744 4713 The Deck Nguyen U Di; +84 8 3744 6632; thedecksaigon.com
CHIISANA HASHI
170 Nguyen Van Huong; +84 8 6683 5309; khaisilkcorp.com Banian Tree 170 Nguyen Van Huong; +84 8 6683 5309; khaisilkcorp.com Lu Bu 97 B Thao Dien; +84 8 62818371; luburestaurant.com Tama River 14E1 Thao Dien; +84 8 37 44 67 82
Contact platinum card service for bookings
see mo
Trois Gourmands (3g) 39 Tran Ngoc Dien; +84 8 3744 4585; 3gourmandsaigon.com
m
departures-international.com
La Villa 14 Ngo Quang Huy; +84 8 3898 2082; lavilla-restaurant.com.vn
co
9
Address Book
nal.
Check out Ho Chi Minh City’s hottest new hostelries online
io at
I built a solid structure under the roof of a large shed.” The deck overlooking the weedknotted waters is, of course, the main draw. To one side, bartenders craft peach and cardamom Bellinis and dragonfruit margaritas – devised by renowned New York mixologist Joseph Barowski – atop a marble and granite bar. On the other, waiters ferry Executive Chef Cao Lam Gia’s contemporary Asian-fusion dishes like galangal-infused caramelised salmon, chargrilled lamb fillet kushiyaki and chargrilled Phu Quoc prawns from kitchen to table. Such geographic eclecticism is the norm in An Phu. Witness home-grown luxury brand Khai Silk, whose namesake, Hoang Khai, operates two distinctive dining concepts, each paying homage to flamboyant interiors and impeccable cuisine in equal measure. Japanese restaurant Chiisana Hashi serves typical Nippon-centric fare while Banian Tree purveys traditional Vietnamese dishes in a setting evoking the spirit of Vietnam’s former feudal capital. Elaborately carved screen doors reflect the architectural style of the time and walls painted a deep purple – the former colour of the Emperor – recall the shade of traditional ao dai dress favoured by Hue women. At newly opened Lu Bu, or “hectic” in Vietnamese, the setting is a bit more roughly hewn – whitewashed walls perfectly
n
D E PA RT at
Clockwise from left: Japanese art at Tama River; al fresco dining on the Saigon River at The Deck; eclectic decor at Banian Tree; opposite: La Villa appetizer
complement signature dishes from the panMediterranean menu, which counts Balkan, Turkish, Middle-Eastern and North African influences. Among the highlights are seared swordfish with steamed potatoes, squash, tomato frito and bacon jam and harissa beetroot-cured salmon with pine nuts, pink grapefruit and beetroot chips – and, like many of their culinary counterparts in An Phu, everything at Lu Bu is made from scratch. “All breads, yoghurts, cheeses, pastas and pickles are made on-site,” says Jim Cawood, who along with Kylie Michelle owns not only the restaurant but also longestablished wine shop-cum-eatery Vino, with locations in both District 1 and An Phu. The former is home to most of the city’s Japanese eateries – the contingent make up the lion’s share of HCMC’s expat community – but An Phu’s newly opened Tama River is garnering rave reviews. Owner Seck Yee Chung ensured that the menu leans heavily on classics – sashimi, sushi, hot pots – but gives the kitchen space to “explore and roll out different ingredients and combinations to keep the offerings lively, which have ranged from uni (sea urchin) wrapped in white fish and grilled salmon fin, to soups poured out of a mini teapot”. Just further evidence that An Phu’s community spirit, market-fresh fare and relaxed ambience are combining to create a dining scene that’s truly world-class. ♦
An Phu’s community
RODNEY SMITH
spirit is truly world class
departures-international.com
10
