A Pictorial Guide to Lining Applique Patches

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A Pictorial Guide to Lining Applique Patches This pictorial guide shows how to line appliqué patches using the back basting method.

Lining Large Pieces Download PDF File

Occasionally it is necessary to line an appliqué patch so that the seams will not show through. The wall hanging to the right is an example. In two of the blocks, a light pink appliqué frame is placed over a deep purple background. The light pink area needs to be lined.

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It isn't always easy to know if a patch needs to be lined. The simplest way to determine this is to place a piece of white paper or a piece of white cotton fabric underneath a portion of the design. In our example, it is the dark background fabric that is showing through. It is not always the background that is dark. You may be building a flower with many petals. Those petals may become lighter as you build layer upon layer. You may reach a point that a darker petal shows through a lighter petal. If so, test your fabric with the white paper or white cotton to determine if lining the patch will improve the appearance of your appliqué and hide the seams.

Step 1: Draw your design on the back side of your fabric. Be sure to draw it in reverse. (See Pictorial Guide to Back Basting)

Step 2: Cut a piece of 100% white cotton fabric that has been pre-shrunk slightly larger than the patch that will be lined. Place it on the right side of your applique block over the patch area which is to be lined.

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A Pictorial Guide to Lining Applique Patches - continued Download PDF File

Step 3: Turn your work to the back side. Using white thread, baste the lining patch in place. Baste approximately 1/4" inside the drawn line.

Turn your wok over. It will look similar to the photo at the left. Note: I have mixed white thread and black thread depending on which color showed the best in the photos. In actual practice, I always tack the lining in place with white thread so that the thread will not show through the light fabric.

Step 4: On the front side, trim away the excess white lining fabric, cutting approximately 1/8" outside your basting thread.

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Note: As you have basted 1/4" inside the seam line and you have cut 1/8" outside the basted line, you have actually cut 1/8" inside the seam line. This will allow you to needle turn the seam allowance under the lining. As your seam allowance will be between 1/8" and 3/16", the entire area will be lined either with the lining fabric or the seam allowance which you have turned under. I don't like cutting any closer to the seam line as the lining may occasionally prevent me from turning the seam allowance as I choose.

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A Pictorial Guide to Lining Applique Patches - continued Download PDF File

Alternate basting method: After pinning the white cotton fabric in place on the right side of the fabric, turn your work to the back side. Baste directly on the drawn pattern line. Then place a second line of stitches 1/4" inside the drawn line. Be sure to use white thread for this second basting. as it will remain in your work to secure the lining. Turn your work to the right side. Remove the outer most basting thread. It will be the one that is directly on the drawn line of the pattern. The holes will remain. Trim between the inner basting thread and the holes. This will be approximately 1/8" outside the inner most basting thread and 1/8" inside the holes.

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Step 5: On the right side of your work, place the applique fabric over the lining for that patch.

Step 6: Turn your work to the back side. Back baste following your drawn pattern. See Pictorial Guide to Back Basting.

Step 7: Turn your work to the front side. Applique the patch in place using the needle turn method.

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A Pictorial Guide to Lining Applique Patches - continued Download PDF File

Lining Small Pieces Steps 1-2: These steps are the same as steps 1 and 2 in "Lining Large Pieces" . In this next example, I have a light colored leaf that I need to line.

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The pattern has been drawn in reverse A piece of white paper was placed on the back side of the fabric. between the brown background fabric

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and the light green leaf material. As the brown shows through, it will be necessary to line the green fabric.

Step 3:Using the pin method of placement, pin the white lining fabric to the right side of the background fabric. Step 4: Turn your work to the back side. Run a basting thread directly on the pattern line that you have drawn. Step 5: With white thread, tack the lining fabric in place. If the piece is very small, it will only take a couple of stitches. If the piece is a little larger (as in our leaf to the right), then you can actually stitch 1/4" inside the outside edge of the leaf.

Step 6: Turn your work to the right side. Trim approximately 1/8" inside the basting thread. (See figure above) Be sure to cut only the lining fabric. When trimmed, remove the outer basting thread leaving the inner thread to hold the lining secure. Depending on your lining fabric you may be able to remove the basting thread before you trim the lining. Then use the holes made by that basting thread as a guide to trim the lining to size.

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A Pictorial Guide to Lining Applique Patches - continued Download PDF File

This photo shows the leaf fabric after it has been basted in place using the back basting method. The lining patch can be seen inside the basting thread and approximately 1/8" away from that thread.

The leaf on the left was not lined. As The green leaf fabric has been trimmed. It's time to needle turn the you can see, the uneven seam allowance is showing through. No leaf into place. seams show on the leaf at the right

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which was lined. 12345

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