A secret foodie paradise
30
LIFE&STYLE
TRAVEL The Seychelles gives Angelina Villa-Clarke food for thought
T
CITYAM.COM
MONDAY 13 MARCH 2017
waves alongside huge humphead parrotfish, some of which grow to over one metre in length. It’s an ecologist’s dream. While the Seychelles has long promoted its idyllic beaches and sophisticated hotels to tourists, its nature tourism has not been put in the spotlight until recently. But with two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, endemic species and enough giant tortoises to give the Galapagos a run (well, a very slow crawl) for its money, it has much to shout about. Back at Raffles, the architecture makes the most of the idyllic setting, with its 86 villas built terrace-style into the hillside overlooking the bay. The aesthetic may be simple and pared-back but its design details still gives a nod to the abundance of nature outside. You’ll find coral motifs sewn into pillows and woven into plush sea-green rugs, there are mother-of-pearl lightshades and a rough-hewn wall made of rock behind the bed. The outside is not for shutting out here – so each room has floor to ceiling windows, opening up
There’s no better way to experience Creole culture than with the taste buds
to an expansive deck, outdoor pavilion, al fresco shower and cool plunge pool. A white granite bathroom, with a tub specially positioned for star-gazing, the biggest bed I’ve ever slept in and treats from the in-house patisserie ramp up the luxury factor. While all of this is wonderfully cocooning, Raffles really want you to experience the island’s Creole culture and what better way to do that than with the taste buds. From the rum-tasting sessions in the rooftop Takamaka Terrace to cookery lessons with a local ‘mamma’, culinary exploration is a real focus. At the helm is British executive chef Chris Meredith, who’s been making use of the region’s wealth of produce across the resort’s bars and restaurants. “Most mornings, I choose the fish straight off the fishing boat,” he says. “Red snapper, sail fish, grouper, yellowfin tuna – it varies according to how the fishermen have done the night before. Sustainability and locality are buzzwords in many restaurants at the moment, but here, because we’re so remote, it’s key.
“While we do have to import some ingredients, we’ve cut this down as much as possible. People want to experience new things that are unique to the destination when they travel,” he continues. “So we strive to use as much local produce as we can. Authenticity is what we are all about.” Talking of which, at Losean Restaurant, many dishes are based on traditional Creole recipes, albeit with a sophisticated twist. There’s ceviche of local reef fish, local fruit bat curry, breadfruit chips, and saffron and mango semi-freddo. For those wanting to further understand the cuisine, book a lesson with the charming Chef Robin Sandiren, a past winner of the region’s version of Masterchef. You’ll get to grips with making palm heart salad, local blue shrimps with water gourd, grouper baked with spicy coconut chutney and creole rice with curry leaves. Afterwards you’ll eat it together, ‘family style’. With most vegetables and meat sourced from local farms and smallholdings, guests can also go on a
Iragna, Ticino, © Per Kasch
he Seychelles – an archipelago of 115 islands strewn across the Indian Ocean – remains one of the most remote places in the world. With no direct routes from the UK, visitors fly to a Middle Eastern or African hub, such as Dubai or Nairobi, take another flight to the largest Seychellois island of Mahé, and then a smaller sea-plane to their chosen island. It’s no surprise then that this region – some 900 miles east of Kenya – has largely been the domain of honeymooners looking for somewhere romantic and far-flung. But, while there are still plenty of doors open to those in love, things are currently astir in the islands. The tourism industry wants to also attract those in love with life. Putting the region’s natural resources and rich foodie heritage at the top of its agenda is Raffles Seychelles, a sleek, contemporary resort found on the island of Praslin. The forest-covered island is also home to the Vallée de Mai National Park, as well as unfeasibly beautiful beaches. Anse Lazio, for instance, a short drive from the hotel, regularly tops ‘most stunning beaches in the world’ lists. The hotel encourages its guests to immerse themselves in local culture and the spectacular landscape found on its doorstep. Close to the northcoast of Praslin is one such spot: Curieuse Island, which was until 1965 a leper colony. The untouched atoll has since been turned into a marine national park and is now home to around 500 Aldabra giant tortoises. It is also one of only two places in the world where the lofty Coco de Mer palm grows, producing the largest – and rudest-looking – seed on earth. Curieue is heaving with life. Rare black parrots squawk in the creaking palms, golden geckos scuttle past and impossibly tall takamaka trees make you feel like you’ve entered a prehistoric age. When you disembark at Baie Laraie, you’ll splash through the
A secret foodie paradise
To find inspiration, call 00800 100 200 30 or visit MySwitzerland.com
CITYAM.COM
MONDAY 13 MARCH 2017 LIFE&STYLE 31
: @city_am
: @cityamlife
THE LONG WEEKEND Rumour has it that one of the giant tortoises on the island can speak, and has been alive for one thousand years.
NEED TO KNOW A stay at Raffles Praslin Seychelles starts from €650 (including 26 per cent service and taxes) per villa per night, based on a single or double occupancy in a Garden View Pool Villa on a bed and breakfast basis. To book call +248 429 6780; or visit raffles.com/praslin Rates at Raffles Dubai start from 1,314 AED per room per night based on two sharing. To book call +800 1723 3537; or visit raffles.com/dubai
CHAMONIX FRENCH ALPS The perfect resort for a snow-filled weekend getaway THE WEEKEND: Hitting the mountain is often an annual affair - the same week, the same place, the same friends. While this might give you something to look forward to it’s worth remembering how easy it is to simply grab your gear and treat yourself to a weekend adventure. If you worked on Thursday and will be back in the office on Monday, then spending Friday and Saturday on the slopes takes on a particularly indulgent quality - especially if you get the accommodation right.
‘food journey’ with Raffles’ chefs – visiting Seychellois producers and markets to understand the provenance of the ingredients. “We’re not about enclosing our guests behind the hotel walls,” says Robin, who comes from Mahé. “Seychellois people are naturally welcoming and friendly. We want to share our culture with the world.” For those still hungry for more, a stop-over at Raffles outpost in Dubai, is the only way to travel home. The man-made nature of Dubai is, of course, about as far as you can get from the unchecked wildness of the Seychelles. But they do have one thing in common – the passion for achieving foodie prowess. Raffles Dubai is one of the city’s best foodie hotels, and its many restaurants are overseen by Greek chef Doxis Bekris. From the Manolo Blahnik Collection Afternoon Tea in the Salon – which includes peach-praline chocolate stilettos and a pannacotta and sour cherry hat stand – to its 17th-floor Japanese Tomo restaurant, it’s perfectly wild at heart.
WHERE? Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is just an hour’s flight from London to Geneva with a quick transfer from the airport. This is the domain of Mont Blanc, challenging runs, off-piste adventures and epic glaciers. The town itself - Frances’s oldest ski resort boasts an impressive range of restaurants, bars and boutiques - all of which appeal to the well-heeled crowd. With 150km of pistes and 15,000 acres off piste, there’s something on offer for all abilities. However, Chamonix has a deserved reputation for challenging and exciting opportunities for skiers and borders alike.
catering options. They boast a range of properties from serviced apartments in the heart of the town to cosy, tucked-away cottages and larger, luxury chalets. For a weekend break, the Val d’Arve apartments are convenient, comfortable, wellappointed and beautifully positioned with views of Mont Blanc.
TOP TIP
Book a mountain guide to help make the most of a weekend break
THE STAY: The ease with which one can get to Chamonix from London makes it the perfect resort for a mini-break. Collineige is a specialist chalet company that has been welcoming guests for over 30 years. They offer some of the most beautiful properties in the valley, including catered and self-
CARIBBEAN
was
2489
£
now
now
1295 1294
£
£
OUR BEST AIRFARE DEALS Auckland Bangkok Barbados Brisbane Dubai Johannesburg
Premium Economy was now from £ fr
fr
fr
fr
2143 £ 949 £ fr 989 £ fr 1989 £ fr 1035 £ fr 1379 fr
£
fr
1893 £ 848 £ fr 849 £ fr 1887 £ fr 614 £ fr 1007
Various travel dates apply. Prices are for travel with various airlines.*
Business Class was now from £ fr
2285 1827 £ fr 2489 £ fr 2879 £ fr 1818 £ fr 2115 £
£
The premium airfare and luxury holiday experts
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW Chamonix’s season runs long into the spring, and you should take advantage of last minute availability and special offers with Collineige. So go ahead and treat yourself to a weekend on the slopes. www.collineige.com
USA & CANADA
was
2179
£
ASK ABOUT: Private guides and off-piste experiences. Your chalet hosts can arrange for experienced local guides who will help you make the most of the glacier and miles of off-piste adventures. If you’re on a quick break, a guide can really help you see the best of Chamonix in a short space of time.
BY K O AY BO FRID
BUSINESS CLASS SALE
THE FOOD: No weekend away is complete without some memorable dining experiences and Chamonix will not disappoint. Collineige can arrange an excellent private dining treat in your apartment, where a skilled chef comes and prepares a four course meal as you lounge by the fire. This is well worth taking them up on, but you should also book a table at the magnificent Maison Carrier - a traditional savoie restaurant with wooden beams, roaring fires and high-end local cuisine. For the real foodie, Chamonix
boasts a range of Michelin-starred restaurants, including Le Bistrot - which wouldn’t be out of place in Mayfair. On the mountain you can find gorgeous restaurants for lunch, the best of which can be booked by Collineige.
2065 1399 £ fr 1679 £ fr 2427 £ fr 1279 £ fr 1786 fr
£
Kuala Lumpur Las Vegas Los Angeles Melbourne Miami New York
Premium Economy was now from £ fr
1399 1258 £ fr 1349 £ fr 1249 £ fr 1164 £ fr 1124 fr
fr
£
£
939 933 £ fr 939 £ fr 985 £ fr 689 £ fr 707 fr
£
Business Class was now from £ fr
1828 3066 £ fr 2679 £ fr 2249 £ fr 2806 £ fr 2893 fr
fr
£
£
1578 2195 £ fr 2199 £ fr 1709 £ fr 1795 £ fr 1495 fr
£
Perth Rio de Janeiro Singapore Sydney Toronto Vietnam
flightcentre.co.uk/firstandbusiness
Premium Economy was now from £ fr
2129 1295 £ fr 1095 £ fr 1193 £ fr 1035 £ fr 1219 fr
fr
£
£
1759 £ 988 £ fr 979 £ fr 989 £ fr 804 £ fr 938 fr
Business Class was now from £ fr
3599 2015 £ fr 1929 £ fr 2313 £ fr 2489 £ fr 1967 fr
fr
£
£
2167 1895 £ fr 1554 £ fr 1719 £ fr 1294 £ fr 1399 fr
£
0800 082 5922
LIFE&STYLE
TRAVEL The Seychelles gives Angelina Villa-Clarke food for thought
T
CITYAM.COM
MONDAY 13 MARCH 2017
waves alongside huge humphead parrotfish, some of which grow to over one metre in length. It’s an ecologist’s dream. While the Seychelles has long promoted its idyllic beaches and sophisticated hotels to tourists, its nature tourism has not been put in the spotlight until recently. But with two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, endemic species and enough giant tortoises to give the Galapagos a run (well, a very slow crawl) for its money, it has much to shout about. Back at Raffles, the architecture makes the most of the idyllic setting, with its 86 villas built terrace-style into the hillside overlooking the bay. The aesthetic may be simple and pared-back but its design details still gives a nod to the abundance of nature outside. You’ll find coral motifs sewn into pillows and woven into plush sea-green rugs, there are mother-of-pearl lightshades and a rough-hewn wall made of rock behind the bed. The outside is not for shutting out here – so each room has floor to ceiling windows, opening up
There’s no better way to experience Creole culture than with the taste buds
to an expansive deck, outdoor pavilion, al fresco shower and cool plunge pool. A white granite bathroom, with a tub specially positioned for star-gazing, the biggest bed I’ve ever slept in and treats from the in-house patisserie ramp up the luxury factor. While all of this is wonderfully cocooning, Raffles really want you to experience the island’s Creole culture and what better way to do that than with the taste buds. From the rum-tasting sessions in the rooftop Takamaka Terrace to cookery lessons with a local ‘mamma’, culinary exploration is a real focus. At the helm is British executive chef Chris Meredith, who’s been making use of the region’s wealth of produce across the resort’s bars and restaurants. “Most mornings, I choose the fish straight off the fishing boat,” he says. “Red snapper, sail fish, grouper, yellowfin tuna – it varies according to how the fishermen have done the night before. Sustainability and locality are buzzwords in many restaurants at the moment, but here, because we’re so remote, it’s key.
“While we do have to import some ingredients, we’ve cut this down as much as possible. People want to experience new things that are unique to the destination when they travel,” he continues. “So we strive to use as much local produce as we can. Authenticity is what we are all about.” Talking of which, at Losean Restaurant, many dishes are based on traditional Creole recipes, albeit with a sophisticated twist. There’s ceviche of local reef fish, local fruit bat curry, breadfruit chips, and saffron and mango semi-freddo. For those wanting to further understand the cuisine, book a lesson with the charming Chef Robin Sandiren, a past winner of the region’s version of Masterchef. You’ll get to grips with making palm heart salad, local blue shrimps with water gourd, grouper baked with spicy coconut chutney and creole rice with curry leaves. Afterwards you’ll eat it together, ‘family style’. With most vegetables and meat sourced from local farms and smallholdings, guests can also go on a
Iragna, Ticino, © Per Kasch
he Seychelles – an archipelago of 115 islands strewn across the Indian Ocean – remains one of the most remote places in the world. With no direct routes from the UK, visitors fly to a Middle Eastern or African hub, such as Dubai or Nairobi, take another flight to the largest Seychellois island of Mahé, and then a smaller sea-plane to their chosen island. It’s no surprise then that this region – some 900 miles east of Kenya – has largely been the domain of honeymooners looking for somewhere romantic and far-flung. But, while there are still plenty of doors open to those in love, things are currently astir in the islands. The tourism industry wants to also attract those in love with life. Putting the region’s natural resources and rich foodie heritage at the top of its agenda is Raffles Seychelles, a sleek, contemporary resort found on the island of Praslin. The forest-covered island is also home to the Vallée de Mai National Park, as well as unfeasibly beautiful beaches. Anse Lazio, for instance, a short drive from the hotel, regularly tops ‘most stunning beaches in the world’ lists. The hotel encourages its guests to immerse themselves in local culture and the spectacular landscape found on its doorstep. Close to the northcoast of Praslin is one such spot: Curieuse Island, which was until 1965 a leper colony. The untouched atoll has since been turned into a marine national park and is now home to around 500 Aldabra giant tortoises. It is also one of only two places in the world where the lofty Coco de Mer palm grows, producing the largest – and rudest-looking – seed on earth. Curieue is heaving with life. Rare black parrots squawk in the creaking palms, golden geckos scuttle past and impossibly tall takamaka trees make you feel like you’ve entered a prehistoric age. When you disembark at Baie Laraie, you’ll splash through the
A secret foodie paradise
To find inspiration, call 00800 100 200 30 or visit MySwitzerland.com
CITYAM.COM
MONDAY 13 MARCH 2017 LIFE&STYLE 31
: @city_am
: @cityamlife
THE LONG WEEKEND Rumour has it that one of the giant tortoises on the island can speak, and has been alive for one thousand years.
NEED TO KNOW A stay at Raffles Praslin Seychelles starts from €650 (including 26 per cent service and taxes) per villa per night, based on a single or double occupancy in a Garden View Pool Villa on a bed and breakfast basis. To book call +248 429 6780; or visit raffles.com/praslin Rates at Raffles Dubai start from 1,314 AED per room per night based on two sharing. To book call +800 1723 3537; or visit raffles.com/dubai
CHAMONIX FRENCH ALPS The perfect resort for a snow-filled weekend getaway THE WEEKEND: Hitting the mountain is often an annual affair - the same week, the same place, the same friends. While this might give you something to look forward to it’s worth remembering how easy it is to simply grab your gear and treat yourself to a weekend adventure. If you worked on Thursday and will be back in the office on Monday, then spending Friday and Saturday on the slopes takes on a particularly indulgent quality - especially if you get the accommodation right.
‘food journey’ with Raffles’ chefs – visiting Seychellois producers and markets to understand the provenance of the ingredients. “We’re not about enclosing our guests behind the hotel walls,” says Robin, who comes from Mahé. “Seychellois people are naturally welcoming and friendly. We want to share our culture with the world.” For those still hungry for more, a stop-over at Raffles outpost in Dubai, is the only way to travel home. The man-made nature of Dubai is, of course, about as far as you can get from the unchecked wildness of the Seychelles. But they do have one thing in common – the passion for achieving foodie prowess. Raffles Dubai is one of the city’s best foodie hotels, and its many restaurants are overseen by Greek chef Doxis Bekris. From the Manolo Blahnik Collection Afternoon Tea in the Salon – which includes peach-praline chocolate stilettos and a pannacotta and sour cherry hat stand – to its 17th-floor Japanese Tomo restaurant, it’s perfectly wild at heart.
WHERE? Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is just an hour’s flight from London to Geneva with a quick transfer from the airport. This is the domain of Mont Blanc, challenging runs, off-piste adventures and epic glaciers. The town itself - Frances’s oldest ski resort boasts an impressive range of restaurants, bars and boutiques - all of which appeal to the well-heeled crowd. With 150km of pistes and 15,000 acres off piste, there’s something on offer for all abilities. However, Chamonix has a deserved reputation for challenging and exciting opportunities for skiers and borders alike.
catering options. They boast a range of properties from serviced apartments in the heart of the town to cosy, tucked-away cottages and larger, luxury chalets. For a weekend break, the Val d’Arve apartments are convenient, comfortable, wellappointed and beautifully positioned with views of Mont Blanc.
TOP TIP
Book a mountain guide to help make the most of a weekend break
THE STAY: The ease with which one can get to Chamonix from London makes it the perfect resort for a mini-break. Collineige is a specialist chalet company that has been welcoming guests for over 30 years. They offer some of the most beautiful properties in the valley, including catered and self-
CARIBBEAN
was
2489
£
now
now
1295 1294
£
£
OUR BEST AIRFARE DEALS Auckland Bangkok Barbados Brisbane Dubai Johannesburg
Premium Economy was now from £ fr
fr
fr
fr
2143 £ 949 £ fr 989 £ fr 1989 £ fr 1035 £ fr 1379 fr
£
fr
1893 £ 848 £ fr 849 £ fr 1887 £ fr 614 £ fr 1007
Various travel dates apply. Prices are for travel with various airlines.*
Business Class was now from £ fr
2285 1827 £ fr 2489 £ fr 2879 £ fr 1818 £ fr 2115 £
£
The premium airfare and luxury holiday experts
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW Chamonix’s season runs long into the spring, and you should take advantage of last minute availability and special offers with Collineige. So go ahead and treat yourself to a weekend on the slopes. www.collineige.com
USA & CANADA
was
2179
£
ASK ABOUT: Private guides and off-piste experiences. Your chalet hosts can arrange for experienced local guides who will help you make the most of the glacier and miles of off-piste adventures. If you’re on a quick break, a guide can really help you see the best of Chamonix in a short space of time.
BY K O AY BO FRID
BUSINESS CLASS SALE
THE FOOD: No weekend away is complete without some memorable dining experiences and Chamonix will not disappoint. Collineige can arrange an excellent private dining treat in your apartment, where a skilled chef comes and prepares a four course meal as you lounge by the fire. This is well worth taking them up on, but you should also book a table at the magnificent Maison Carrier - a traditional savoie restaurant with wooden beams, roaring fires and high-end local cuisine. For the real foodie, Chamonix
boasts a range of Michelin-starred restaurants, including Le Bistrot - which wouldn’t be out of place in Mayfair. On the mountain you can find gorgeous restaurants for lunch, the best of which can be booked by Collineige.
2065 1399 £ fr 1679 £ fr 2427 £ fr 1279 £ fr 1786 fr
£
Kuala Lumpur Las Vegas Los Angeles Melbourne Miami New York
Premium Economy was now from £ fr
1399 1258 £ fr 1349 £ fr 1249 £ fr 1164 £ fr 1124 fr
fr
£
£
939 933 £ fr 939 £ fr 985 £ fr 689 £ fr 707 fr
£
Business Class was now from £ fr
1828 3066 £ fr 2679 £ fr 2249 £ fr 2806 £ fr 2893 fr
fr
£
£
1578 2195 £ fr 2199 £ fr 1709 £ fr 1795 £ fr 1495 fr
£
Perth Rio de Janeiro Singapore Sydney Toronto Vietnam
flightcentre.co.uk/firstandbusiness
Premium Economy was now from £ fr
2129 1295 £ fr 1095 £ fr 1193 £ fr 1035 £ fr 1219 fr
fr
£
£
1759 £ 988 £ fr 979 £ fr 989 £ fr 804 £ fr 938 fr
Business Class was now from £ fr
3599 2015 £ fr 1929 £ fr 2313 £ fr 2489 £ fr 1967 fr
fr
£
£
2167 1895 £ fr 1554 £ fr 1719 £ fr 1294 £ fr 1399 fr
£
0800 082 5922
