absolutely athens
ABSOLUTELY ATHENS A must-visit city, no matter what the state of the European Union. BY MERRYN JOHNS
The rooftop of the New Hotel
I
n April, I was invited to TravelTrade Athens (traveltradeathens. com) where top tour operators and travel agents gather for a travel industry workshop and networking event; only a few journalists were invited to peek in on a city planning its big revival. At the press conference, I listened to a speech by Yorgos Kaminis, the mayor of Athens, in which he described the city as “the cradle of democracy” and a “beautiful destination with a lot of advantages over other established capital cities.” He’s right: Athens—and the wider area of Attica—has so much visible history and culture. Ancient ruins can be found right by the side of the road, along with the hippest contemporary restaurants and tavernas. Most people speak English and, unlike the way you’re often treated in other European capitals, you won’t be insulted or snubbed if you don’t speak the local lingo. Having suffered through the global financial crisis of 2008 and onwards, Kaminis was honest in his view of his city: He wished to project a positive view of Athens while acknowledging that there is a negative perception of it. He intends to reverse that opinion through hard work and optimism, and especially by targeting developing niche markets such as youth, wellness, and LGBT tourism. Maria Logotheti, chair of the Athens Development and Destination Management Agency, agreed, acknowledging that LGBT tourists comprise an important market, attracted by the “vibrant culture, stunning coastline, exciting food scene, and legendary nightlife.” Not long after my visit, Greece’s debt crisis and conflict with the rest of the EU was all over the news. Is Greece stable enough to travel to? At the time of publication (late August), Greece had reached a deal with its international creditors for a bailout of nearly $100 billion, in exchange for harsh austerity terms and repayments. In other words, it’s still a little touch-and-go if you’re a local businessperson, but it’s safe if you’re a tourist: Bank withdrawals (including ATMs) have no lim68
CURVE
S E P/O C T
2015
its for visitors withdrawing money from foreign accounts. In fact, the bad press Greece has received about being dropped from the EU has translated into price drops across the board. I feel confident about recommending Athens to Curve readers. It has so much to recommend it, and when a country’s economy is struggling, the last thing to do is to scare away tourists! WHERE TO STAY
The Electra Athens Hotel (electrahotels.gr) is situated in the center of Athens’ shopping district and right off the stately Syntagma Square. This is the central plaza in modern Athens, a transportation hub for trains and buses, and it also houses the Old Royal Palace and the Greek Parliament. To spend a few minutes there watching the colorful Changing of the Guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier will provide you with some enviable travel photos. The Electra is a friendly and efficient place to stay. The suites are classically elegant and offer free Wi-Fi, but the best thing about this property is the location. Everything you’ll want to get to is just a walk away. For something very contemporary and over-the-top stylish, New Hotel Athens (designhotels.com) is the hottest place in town. It is a living work of art—the brainchild of a Cypriot art collector and two interior designers from Brazil, and does it show! If your idea of home away from home is a big-brand chain hotel, this may be too ‘out there’ for you. But if you like modernist art, aesthetics, and adventure, you’ll love the crazy Constructivist designs, which have been executed with finesse and humor. There are 79 idiosyncratic rooms to choose from, including a rock star penthouse with knockout views of the historic metropolis. You can also enjoy those views, which really come alive at night when the ruins of the Acropolis are lit, from the top-floor terrace.
The rooftop of the New Hotel
I
n April, I was invited to TravelTrade Athens (traveltradeathens. com) where top tour operators and travel agents gather for a travel industry workshop and networking event; only a few journalists were invited to peek in on a city planning its big revival. At the press conference, I listened to a speech by Yorgos Kaminis, the mayor of Athens, in which he described the city as “the cradle of democracy” and a “beautiful destination with a lot of advantages over other established capital cities.” He’s right: Athens—and the wider area of Attica—has so much visible history and culture. Ancient ruins can be found right by the side of the road, along with the hippest contemporary restaurants and tavernas. Most people speak English and, unlike the way you’re often treated in other European capitals, you won’t be insulted or snubbed if you don’t speak the local lingo. Having suffered through the global financial crisis of 2008 and onwards, Kaminis was honest in his view of his city: He wished to project a positive view of Athens while acknowledging that there is a negative perception of it. He intends to reverse that opinion through hard work and optimism, and especially by targeting developing niche markets such as youth, wellness, and LGBT tourism. Maria Logotheti, chair of the Athens Development and Destination Management Agency, agreed, acknowledging that LGBT tourists comprise an important market, attracted by the “vibrant culture, stunning coastline, exciting food scene, and legendary nightlife.” Not long after my visit, Greece’s debt crisis and conflict with the rest of the EU was all over the news. Is Greece stable enough to travel to? At the time of publication (late August), Greece had reached a deal with its international creditors for a bailout of nearly $100 billion, in exchange for harsh austerity terms and repayments. In other words, it’s still a little touch-and-go if you’re a local businessperson, but it’s safe if you’re a tourist: Bank withdrawals (including ATMs) have no lim68
CURVE
S E P/O C T
2015
its for visitors withdrawing money from foreign accounts. In fact, the bad press Greece has received about being dropped from the EU has translated into price drops across the board. I feel confident about recommending Athens to Curve readers. It has so much to recommend it, and when a country’s economy is struggling, the last thing to do is to scare away tourists! WHERE TO STAY
The Electra Athens Hotel (electrahotels.gr) is situated in the center of Athens’ shopping district and right off the stately Syntagma Square. This is the central plaza in modern Athens, a transportation hub for trains and buses, and it also houses the Old Royal Palace and the Greek Parliament. To spend a few minutes there watching the colorful Changing of the Guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier will provide you with some enviable travel photos. The Electra is a friendly and efficient place to stay. The suites are classically elegant and offer free Wi-Fi, but the best thing about this property is the location. Everything you’ll want to get to is just a walk away. For something very contemporary and over-the-top stylish, New Hotel Athens (designhotels.com) is the hottest place in town. It is a living work of art—the brainchild of a Cypriot art collector and two interior designers from Brazil, and does it show! If your idea of home away from home is a big-brand chain hotel, this may be too ‘out there’ for you. But if you like modernist art, aesthetics, and adventure, you’ll love the crazy Constructivist designs, which have been executed with finesse and humor. There are 79 idiosyncratic rooms to choose from, including a rock star penthouse with knockout views of the historic metropolis. You can also enjoy those views, which really come alive at night when the ruins of the Acropolis are lit, from the top-floor terrace.
