Alpamayo; Artesonraju, East Face; Artesonraju; Aguja Nevada
A lp a m a y o ; A rteso n ra ju , E a st F ace; A rteso n ra ju ; A g u ja N eva d a , N o r th Face; C araz E ste, N o r th F ace; Q uitaraju. T h e D a rtm o u th M o u n tain eerin g C lub A n d e a n E x p ed itio n w as com posed o f Jo h n a n d Spaff A ckerly, T im A m m o n s, C h ris C o p elan d , B.A. D oyle, B lake K e rr, Jim M cK u sick an d m e as leader. W e h a d a successful m on th , clim bing o u t o f Base C am p n e a r th e m o u th o f th e Q u e b ra d a A rh u ey co ch a. T h e A ck erly b ro th ers, C o p elan d and A m m o n s re ac h ed th e su m m it o f A lp am ay o N o rte on Ju n e 29. T h ey clim bed across th e col betw een A lp am ay o a n d Q u itara ju , crossed th e w estern rib o f A lp am a y o an d clim b ed a sh o rt p a rt o f th e n o rth w est face before jo in in g th e sta n d a rd n o rth ridge ro u te. T h e ro u n d trip fro m Base C am p to o k 4 ½ days. F ro m Ju ly 7 to 11 A m m o n s a n d I m ad e a v a ria n t on th e w ide east face o f A rte so n ra ju . W e crossed th e
glacier below th e face to gain th e left (s o u th ) side o f a larg e snow field. A scending the snow field alm o st to its to p , we crossed a ro c k b an d via a b eau tifu l ice gully a n d g ain ed a sm aller, steeper snow slope w h ich angles rig ht to w ard th e sum m it. A fte r a sitting b ivouac, on Ju ly 10 w e gained th e so u th east rid g e a b o u t 4 0 0 feet below th e su m m it a n d m ad e o u r w ay to the to p in p o o r w eath er. W e h a d in ten d ed to d escend th e n o rth ridge, b u t lack o f visibility an d cornices sent us dow n th e east face, this tim e on the n o rth side. W e do w n -clim b ed an d rap p elled to a n o th e r cram p ed b ivouac an d finished w ith a sp ecta c u lar rap p el th e n ex t d ay to th e lo w er glacier. K e rr a n d M cK u sick clim bed th e n o rth ridge o f A rte so n ra ju . Briefly stym ied by a h uge crevasse, w hich c u t across th e ridge, they e ventually com p leted th e clim b on Ju ly 12. T h e y w ere 4 ½ days on the m o u n tain . T he A ck erly b ro th e rs m ad e a long a p p ro a c h th ro u g h a h o rrib le m o rain e to th e n o rth face o f th e A g u ja N ev ad a. T h ey m ad e th e first ascent o f the face in a d ay on Ju ly 15. T h e m a jo r tec h n ic al difficulties w ere on th e last m ixed p itc h up to th e n eedle-like su m m it w h ich gives the p eak its nam e. T h ey re tu rn e d to Base C am p fo r a d ay (ro u n d -trip o f fo u r days) an d th e n slogged th e ir w ay b a c k u p to m ak e th e first ascent o f th e n o rth face o f C a ra z E ste on Ju ly 19. Jo h n c o n tra c te d snow -blindness on the descent and h ad to be led off th e glacier. M cK u sick , A m m o n s, C o p e lan d and I m ad e a q u ick ascen t o f th e n o rth face o f Q u ita ra ju o n Ju ly 23 and at daw n the n ext day w alk ed o v er to th e little p eak o f L o y acjirca fo r a b eau tifu l view. P e t e r K e l e m e n , D a rtm o u th M o u n ta in e e rin g C lub
glacier below th e face to gain th e left (s o u th ) side o f a larg e snow field. A scending the snow field alm o st to its to p , we crossed a ro c k b an d via a b eau tifu l ice gully a n d g ain ed a sm aller, steeper snow slope w h ich angles rig ht to w ard th e sum m it. A fte r a sitting b ivouac, on Ju ly 10 w e gained th e so u th east rid g e a b o u t 4 0 0 feet below th e su m m it a n d m ad e o u r w ay to the to p in p o o r w eath er. W e h a d in ten d ed to d escend th e n o rth ridge, b u t lack o f visibility an d cornices sent us dow n th e east face, this tim e on the n o rth side. W e do w n -clim b ed an d rap p elled to a n o th e r cram p ed b ivouac an d finished w ith a sp ecta c u lar rap p el th e n ex t d ay to th e lo w er glacier. K e rr a n d M cK u sick clim bed th e n o rth ridge o f A rte so n ra ju . Briefly stym ied by a h uge crevasse, w hich c u t across th e ridge, they e ventually com p leted th e clim b on Ju ly 12. T h e y w ere 4 ½ days on the m o u n tain . T he A ck erly b ro th e rs m ad e a long a p p ro a c h th ro u g h a h o rrib le m o rain e to th e n o rth face o f th e A g u ja N ev ad a. T h ey m ad e th e first ascent o f the face in a d ay on Ju ly 15. T h e m a jo r tec h n ic al difficulties w ere on th e last m ixed p itc h up to th e n eedle-like su m m it w h ich gives the p eak its nam e. T h ey re tu rn e d to Base C am p fo r a d ay (ro u n d -trip o f fo u r days) an d th e n slogged th e ir w ay b a c k u p to m ak e th e first ascent o f th e n o rth face o f C a ra z E ste on Ju ly 19. Jo h n c o n tra c te d snow -blindness on the descent and h ad to be led off th e glacier. M cK u sick , A m m o n s, C o p e lan d and I m ad e a q u ick ascen t o f th e n o rth face o f Q u ita ra ju o n Ju ly 23 and at daw n the n ext day w alk ed o v er to th e little p eak o f L o y acjirca fo r a b eau tifu l view. P e t e r K e l e m e n , D a rtm o u th M o u n ta in e e rin g C lub
