An outstanding dining experience
along the way
by Victoria Scavo
An outstanding dining experience Møsefund Farm & Outstanding in the Field reconnect people with the source of their food
Guests at Outstanding in the Field events are treated to a tour of the farm with the last stop being one magnificent table set for the 150 attendees.
photo by Elaine Skinner
A special breed Raising pigs started out as somewhat of a hobby for Clampffer and his boss, G.C. Andersen, a New York City investment banker and owner of Møsefund Farm. Clampffer has worked as a private chef for Anderson for more than three years, not only at the farm, but also at Andersen’s home in New York City. “He’s a big food guy,” Clampffer says. Andersen originally said to him, let’s get some pigs and learn how to make bacon, pancetta and hams. So they bought a basic breed of pigs, not knowing any better, according to Clampffer, and then the following year upgraded to a better pig, before finding the superior breed, Mangalitsa.
“After doing my homework on them, I said, this is different. This is what (Andersen’s) business is in New York, his investment firm is different. They don’t do what everyone else does, and that is the way his farm is too,” Clampffer says. They started out by buying 85 Mangalitsa pigs last March. The pigs are of boar descent, but look like a cross between a pig and a sheep with long, curly hair. They have their own 15 acres at the farm to roam freely. “They have food, water and shelter 247,” Clampffer says. The pigs, which can max out at 300 pounds, are fed a diet of acorns collected from a local golf course, along with wheat and barley. They produce monounsaturated fat, which is a good fat like olive oil, rather than polyunsaturated fat, which is yellow and greasy and comes from being fed corn, like most pigs in the country. Clampffer says Mangalitsa is ideal for cured products such as salted lardo, ham or boiled ham, bacon or salami. “(The lardo) is cleaner tasting and it’s lighter on the palette,” Clampffer says. He prepares it with salt and spices, then slices it and serves it with bread, the same way salami or ham would be eaten. In order to learn the best methods to prepare and care for the pigs, Clampffer went to Vienna for a Mangalitsa crash course, visiting five farms in six days. “Part of my job in Vienna was to learn how to utilize the pigs. Utilization is the key,” Clampffer says. The reason it is so important is because these pigs cost more to produce than a basic breed, and they have a lower meat yield — a loin is 75 percent
Mangalitsa pigs are of boar descent, but look like a cross between a pig and a sheep with long, curly hair.
photo by Michael Clampffer
A SMALL PIG FARM NESTLED IN THE HILLS OF Sussex County does not seem like it would drum up a lot of buzz, but Møsefund Farm in Branchville has done just that. Not only has it caught the attention of the press, local and regional chefs and even a visit from Lee Anne Wong from Bravo’s hit show Top Chef — this fall, it will be the site of one of the largest farm-to-table events in the nation, Outstanding in the Field. So why the craze? Møsefund Farm is the exclusive producer in the Northeast of Mangalitsa, a rare breed of pigs that produce dark, deeply flavorful meat and delicious, clean-tasting lard. “We call it the other red meat,” says Michael Clampffer, a private chef at the farm. “It is so full flavored that you don’t have to cover it up with tons of herbs and spices.”
41
along the way fat and only 25 percent meat. This is also the reason the breed, native to Hungary, fell out of favor after World War II — they don’t produce enough meat to feed mass amounts of people, and the fat was no longer needed for lubrication. The pigs also have small litters of 4 to 5, where many other breeds have litters of around 15. In the ’90s, there were only 200 Mangalitsa pigs left, but Eastern European farmers revived the breed to the approximately 50,000 that exist today. “It’s amazing that people stopped producing something so delicious because it wasn’t cost effective,” Clampffer says. “They are the best-tasting pigs you can buy.” Clampffer, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and who has worked in many well-known NJ restaurants, put his Mangalitsa knowledge to the test when he competed in last year’s Cochon 555 in New York City, a competition featuring five chefs, five pigs and five winemakers. Taking his inspiration from his trip to Vienna and his culinary background, he created eight dishes around the Mangalitsa, including a Dirty Pig Martini. Now Clampffer takes pride in helping chefs understand how to prepare Mangalitsa, and also how to make lardo, since the majority of the pig is fat. “I try to help them understand how to use the pigs, and how to think a little differently — think outside the box,” he says. “I teach them why it’s special and how it’s special.” Møsefund Farm also offers some classes at the farm including Pig
Stock, a hands-on three-day class on how to prepare a Mangalitsa from start to finish, as well as other one-day lessons. Clampffer says people come from all over to attend and not all are chefs. “They want to know where their food comes from, and they want to get back to the way food was produced. And that’s what we’re doing.” Clampffer says visitors are always welcome at the farm (please call first so he can ensure he is there to give a tour), or visit him and the Mangalitsa pigs at the New Jersey State Fair/Sussex County Farm and Horse Show in Augusta the first week of August. Cuts of meat can be purchased through the farm by calling (201) 289-0210 or e-mailing [email protected].
A special dinner The 300-acre Møsefund Farm is not only home to the Mangalitsa pigs, but also houses a private equestrian facility. The property borders Stokes State Forest and the Appalachian Trail, and has 40 miles of trails. “It’s a beautiful spot right on the edge of the mountain,” Clampffer says. On September 4, the picturesque scenery will serve as the backdrop to this year’s Outstanding in the Field Dinner (OITF), an event that travels across the country celebrating local farmers and connecting people to the source of their food. Guests will be treated to a tour of the farm with the last stop being one magnificent table set for the 150 attendees.
Food is served up family style on one long community table at OITF events. photo by Elaine Skinner
42
New Jersey
countryside
• JULY/AUGUST 2010
On September 4, the picturesque scenery of Møsefund Farm will serve as a backdrop for a dinner featuring New Jersey’s crops.
“I’m really excited about (OITF) being at a Mangalitsa pig farm. We’ve never done an event like this before,” says Leah Scafe, director for Outstanding in the Field. “It’s great what they are doing at the farm. They have a great philosophy and produce a high-end product.” She says this event will allow people to see where their meat is coming from, and they are able to try something that is mostly offered at restaurants in New York City. “They are so lucky they can experience it at the farm.” OITF started in 1998 with Chef Jim Denevan, who invited local farmers for dinners at his restaurant in Santa Cruz, Calif. Denevan cooked the dinner the first few years before starting to invite guest chefs. Denevan eventually came up with the idea to move the dinner to the source — the farm — and in 2005, the event started to travel nationally. The OITF organization facilitates the event, such as the dates, tickets and guests, however, each dinner features a local guest chef who creates the menu and incorporates local farmers. “It will be all Jersey crops, which at that time are unbelievable,” Clampffer says. “It’s a cool event and tons of big time chefs have done it. It’s going to be fun.” The food is served family style on one long community table made up of 8-foot banquet tables all strung together. The OITF organization travels across the country from farm to farm in their 1950s tour bus, trailing
barbecue grills, candles, chairs, platters and more for the event. They arrive at the farm that morning to set up the table. “Each event is really dependant on so many things that happen throughout the day,” Scafe says. “All the elements come into the day and make it an experience.” This year’s guest chef is no stranger to OITF or Mangalitsa. Chef Scott Anderson of Elements in Princeton was the guest chef last year when the event came to New Jersey for the first time. He also designed a multi-course dinner dedicated to Mangalitsa at his restaurant last August. This year with Møsefund Farm, he is ready to do more “pig work.” Anderson says the event is a great way for people to interact with the chefs and farmers, and dining at the farm creates such a different experience than dining at a restaurant. “I always enjoy farm-to-table because it showcases what the Garden State is all about,” Anderson says. “We are proud to have (OITF) come here. It’s good camaraderie and it is a fun time.” For more information about OITF or for a reservation at this year’s table, visit the Web site at www.outstandinginthefield.com. For more information on Møsefund Farm, visit www.Mosefund.com. NJC Victoria Scavo is New Jersey Countryside’s managing editor. 43
by Victoria Scavo
An outstanding dining experience Møsefund Farm & Outstanding in the Field reconnect people with the source of their food
Guests at Outstanding in the Field events are treated to a tour of the farm with the last stop being one magnificent table set for the 150 attendees.
photo by Elaine Skinner
A special breed Raising pigs started out as somewhat of a hobby for Clampffer and his boss, G.C. Andersen, a New York City investment banker and owner of Møsefund Farm. Clampffer has worked as a private chef for Anderson for more than three years, not only at the farm, but also at Andersen’s home in New York City. “He’s a big food guy,” Clampffer says. Andersen originally said to him, let’s get some pigs and learn how to make bacon, pancetta and hams. So they bought a basic breed of pigs, not knowing any better, according to Clampffer, and then the following year upgraded to a better pig, before finding the superior breed, Mangalitsa.
“After doing my homework on them, I said, this is different. This is what (Andersen’s) business is in New York, his investment firm is different. They don’t do what everyone else does, and that is the way his farm is too,” Clampffer says. They started out by buying 85 Mangalitsa pigs last March. The pigs are of boar descent, but look like a cross between a pig and a sheep with long, curly hair. They have their own 15 acres at the farm to roam freely. “They have food, water and shelter 247,” Clampffer says. The pigs, which can max out at 300 pounds, are fed a diet of acorns collected from a local golf course, along with wheat and barley. They produce monounsaturated fat, which is a good fat like olive oil, rather than polyunsaturated fat, which is yellow and greasy and comes from being fed corn, like most pigs in the country. Clampffer says Mangalitsa is ideal for cured products such as salted lardo, ham or boiled ham, bacon or salami. “(The lardo) is cleaner tasting and it’s lighter on the palette,” Clampffer says. He prepares it with salt and spices, then slices it and serves it with bread, the same way salami or ham would be eaten. In order to learn the best methods to prepare and care for the pigs, Clampffer went to Vienna for a Mangalitsa crash course, visiting five farms in six days. “Part of my job in Vienna was to learn how to utilize the pigs. Utilization is the key,” Clampffer says. The reason it is so important is because these pigs cost more to produce than a basic breed, and they have a lower meat yield — a loin is 75 percent
Mangalitsa pigs are of boar descent, but look like a cross between a pig and a sheep with long, curly hair.
photo by Michael Clampffer
A SMALL PIG FARM NESTLED IN THE HILLS OF Sussex County does not seem like it would drum up a lot of buzz, but Møsefund Farm in Branchville has done just that. Not only has it caught the attention of the press, local and regional chefs and even a visit from Lee Anne Wong from Bravo’s hit show Top Chef — this fall, it will be the site of one of the largest farm-to-table events in the nation, Outstanding in the Field. So why the craze? Møsefund Farm is the exclusive producer in the Northeast of Mangalitsa, a rare breed of pigs that produce dark, deeply flavorful meat and delicious, clean-tasting lard. “We call it the other red meat,” says Michael Clampffer, a private chef at the farm. “It is so full flavored that you don’t have to cover it up with tons of herbs and spices.”
41
along the way fat and only 25 percent meat. This is also the reason the breed, native to Hungary, fell out of favor after World War II — they don’t produce enough meat to feed mass amounts of people, and the fat was no longer needed for lubrication. The pigs also have small litters of 4 to 5, where many other breeds have litters of around 15. In the ’90s, there were only 200 Mangalitsa pigs left, but Eastern European farmers revived the breed to the approximately 50,000 that exist today. “It’s amazing that people stopped producing something so delicious because it wasn’t cost effective,” Clampffer says. “They are the best-tasting pigs you can buy.” Clampffer, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and who has worked in many well-known NJ restaurants, put his Mangalitsa knowledge to the test when he competed in last year’s Cochon 555 in New York City, a competition featuring five chefs, five pigs and five winemakers. Taking his inspiration from his trip to Vienna and his culinary background, he created eight dishes around the Mangalitsa, including a Dirty Pig Martini. Now Clampffer takes pride in helping chefs understand how to prepare Mangalitsa, and also how to make lardo, since the majority of the pig is fat. “I try to help them understand how to use the pigs, and how to think a little differently — think outside the box,” he says. “I teach them why it’s special and how it’s special.” Møsefund Farm also offers some classes at the farm including Pig
Stock, a hands-on three-day class on how to prepare a Mangalitsa from start to finish, as well as other one-day lessons. Clampffer says people come from all over to attend and not all are chefs. “They want to know where their food comes from, and they want to get back to the way food was produced. And that’s what we’re doing.” Clampffer says visitors are always welcome at the farm (please call first so he can ensure he is there to give a tour), or visit him and the Mangalitsa pigs at the New Jersey State Fair/Sussex County Farm and Horse Show in Augusta the first week of August. Cuts of meat can be purchased through the farm by calling (201) 289-0210 or e-mailing [email protected].
A special dinner The 300-acre Møsefund Farm is not only home to the Mangalitsa pigs, but also houses a private equestrian facility. The property borders Stokes State Forest and the Appalachian Trail, and has 40 miles of trails. “It’s a beautiful spot right on the edge of the mountain,” Clampffer says. On September 4, the picturesque scenery will serve as the backdrop to this year’s Outstanding in the Field Dinner (OITF), an event that travels across the country celebrating local farmers and connecting people to the source of their food. Guests will be treated to a tour of the farm with the last stop being one magnificent table set for the 150 attendees.
Food is served up family style on one long community table at OITF events. photo by Elaine Skinner
42
New Jersey
countryside
• JULY/AUGUST 2010
On September 4, the picturesque scenery of Møsefund Farm will serve as a backdrop for a dinner featuring New Jersey’s crops.
“I’m really excited about (OITF) being at a Mangalitsa pig farm. We’ve never done an event like this before,” says Leah Scafe, director for Outstanding in the Field. “It’s great what they are doing at the farm. They have a great philosophy and produce a high-end product.” She says this event will allow people to see where their meat is coming from, and they are able to try something that is mostly offered at restaurants in New York City. “They are so lucky they can experience it at the farm.” OITF started in 1998 with Chef Jim Denevan, who invited local farmers for dinners at his restaurant in Santa Cruz, Calif. Denevan cooked the dinner the first few years before starting to invite guest chefs. Denevan eventually came up with the idea to move the dinner to the source — the farm — and in 2005, the event started to travel nationally. The OITF organization facilitates the event, such as the dates, tickets and guests, however, each dinner features a local guest chef who creates the menu and incorporates local farmers. “It will be all Jersey crops, which at that time are unbelievable,” Clampffer says. “It’s a cool event and tons of big time chefs have done it. It’s going to be fun.” The food is served family style on one long community table made up of 8-foot banquet tables all strung together. The OITF organization travels across the country from farm to farm in their 1950s tour bus, trailing
barbecue grills, candles, chairs, platters and more for the event. They arrive at the farm that morning to set up the table. “Each event is really dependant on so many things that happen throughout the day,” Scafe says. “All the elements come into the day and make it an experience.” This year’s guest chef is no stranger to OITF or Mangalitsa. Chef Scott Anderson of Elements in Princeton was the guest chef last year when the event came to New Jersey for the first time. He also designed a multi-course dinner dedicated to Mangalitsa at his restaurant last August. This year with Møsefund Farm, he is ready to do more “pig work.” Anderson says the event is a great way for people to interact with the chefs and farmers, and dining at the farm creates such a different experience than dining at a restaurant. “I always enjoy farm-to-table because it showcases what the Garden State is all about,” Anderson says. “We are proud to have (OITF) come here. It’s good camaraderie and it is a fun time.” For more information about OITF or for a reservation at this year’s table, visit the Web site at www.outstandinginthefield.com. For more information on Møsefund Farm, visit www.Mosefund.com. NJC Victoria Scavo is New Jersey Countryside’s managing editor. 43
