BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO GARDENING
BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO GARDENING
T H E
UR B A N
M O N K
STEP 1
DECIDING HOW & WHAT YOU WILL GROW Traditional In-Ground Garden Rototilling? What are the benefits? Harm? The biggest downfall of rototilling is that it chops up soil particles too well. It destroys plant roots that live beneath the surface of the soil and upsets the microcosm of organisms that have been working so hard to break down the soil for you – bacteria, fungi, earthworms, nemotodes, and insects, to name a few. Rototilling also creates a pan of hard soil beneath the tilled layer. Your plants will find it very difficult to push their roots through this, consequently limiting their growth. It can also bring weed seeds up to the surface of the soil and create more weeding work for you later in the season. Research has revealed that there is one situation where you might want to rototill your backyard: only if you're starting out with a first-year garden, and you've discovered that your soil is extremely compacted and challenging to plant in. Despite this, it will still be better to double-dig or use the pitchfork technique: The Pitchfork Technique Spread composted soil onto your future garden space. Use a pitchfork to vertically stab holes down into the earth, into which the freshly composted soil will fall and mingle with what's already there. This will aerate the soil and preserve the existing ecosystem of worms and their tunnels. Add more compost if necessary.
Deep Raised Beds The benefits: Better Soil Conditions — Keeps pathway weeds from your garden soil. Prevents soil compaction. Provides excellent drainage and serves as a barrier to pests such as slugs and snails. More Efficient Irrigation — Keeps your valuable garden soil from being eroded or washed away during heavy rains. Aids in water conservation while at the same time allows you to enrich and build the soil through the constant addition of organic matter. Increased Productivity over Traditional In-Ground Gardens — According to Pete Lane at Ohio State University, “In a traditional home [in-ground] garden, good management may yield about .6 pounds of vegetables per square foot. Records of production over three years in a raised bed at Dawes Arboretum near Newark, Ohio, indicate an average of 1.24 pounds per square foot, more than double the conventional yield.”
NOW COMES THE WHAT The Seasons & What to Plant Hopefully you have grasped a better idea of what your gardening area will soon look like. The next step would be to decide what to put in it! Planting by Height Ensure that what you are planting will not outgrow nearby plants and block them from sunlight. We have compiled a list of common plants with data on anticipated plant height. See reference document below. Planting by Soil pH Keep in mind that some plants prefer a slightly acidic or basic environment. You may want to isolate them in a separate container so soil pH management will be easier as well as minimizing inhibitory effects on neighboring plants. Planting for Nature's Benfits Companion Planting is a way to maximize growth and deter pests the way nature intended. You are essentially mimicking natural ecosystems, which have been proven to foster healthy vigorous plant growth. Companion planting can also deter harmful pests which will stress and kill your plants if left untreated. To learn how you can maximize your garden, check out the companion plant list we've created for you. See reference document below. Planting by Season For areas that stay relatively warm throughout the year, you will have more freedom with what you are able to plant. For areas that actually experience real seasons, choosing the correct seeds to plant becomes imperative. We've created a small chart referencing which weather conditions common plants can tolerate. Use this to base what type of plants you choose to grow during each season. See reference document below. click here to download the reference document
what does your soil look like?
SOIL ANALYSIS Soil Types One of the most significant differences between different soil types is the way in which they absorb and hold water. The more homogeneous the soil in the planting area is, the more uniform the water distribution will be.
Properties Coarse Soil — Particles are loose. If squeezed in the hand when dry, it will fall apart when released. If squeezed when moist, it will form a cast, but will crumble easily when touched. Water is more likely to be absorbed vertically, but will not spread very far horizontally. Medium Soil — Has a moderate amount of fine sand grains and very little clay. When dry, it can be readily broken. If squeezed when wet, it will form a cast that can be easily handled. Water distribution is halfway between that of coarse and fine soil water distribution. Fine Soil — When dry, it will form hard lumps or clods. When wet, the soil is quite malleable. If squeezed between the thumb and forefinger, the soil will form a ribbon that will not crack. Water is more likely to spread horizontally than flow vertically.
SOIL OPTIONS Using what you got! 50% screened top soil / 50% high-quality compost
Mel’s Mix by Mel Bartholemew (with some not so sustainable ingredients) 1/3 Peat Moss • Not sustainable! Mining causes problems associated with carbon emissions and climate change. Also, peat moss takes a long time to regenerate. A fully mined peat bog will not be able to support a second harvest by miners for at least 3,000 years. Can a resource that renews itself this slowly ever be considered sustainable? 1/3 Coarse Horticultural Grade Vermiculite • Another finite resource; a byproduct of mining shale. 1/3 Compost Blend • Unless you are starting your own compost and will have the amount needed readily available, then you will need to purchase compost. Since most commercial compost is byproduct of a single industry, you should purchase different types (about 5) and mix them to ensure a variety of nutrients are being put into your soil.
pH SAMPLE If you decide to use your own soil, either for raised beds or a traditional in-ground garden, it is a good idea to take a few soil pH samples.
Why is pH important? The pH of your soil affects the availability of nutrients to the plants. Too acidic or too basic and nutrient lockout will occur. Your plants will then display the same symptoms as nutrient deficiency. [See Diagram] Most garden plants can tolerate a pH of up to 7.5. In soils with a pH above 7.8, iron, zinc, and phosphorous deficiencies are common.
How to test your soil: Buy a kit! Soil pH test kits come with instructions. Be sure to follow these, as there are different applications to testing soil. An easier route is to go digital. Keep in mind that some plants prefer a slightly acidic or basic environment. You may want to isolate these specific plants in a separate container so that managing soil pH will be easier and the resulting pH will not have an inhibitory effect on neighboring plants.
SOIL AMENDMENTS ...when using of a percentage of your top soil.
High pH – too basic High pH is more common in arid climates because rainfall does not have the chance to leach calcium and other basic compounds from the soil. What should you add? Compost because anaerobic organisms in compost produce acids, which will lower pH. Adding compost will slowly lower the pH over time, at the same time increasing microbial life and improving the structure of your soil, creating the ultimate pH buffer. Acidic Organic Mulches such as pine needle mulch. Although it is acidic, it will eventually be buffered out by the soil. Consequently, this is only a temporary fix for acid-loving plants. You will need to constantly add this mulch to your soil to benefit from its acidic properties. LAST RESORT: Sulfur Powder or Flowers of Sulfur. Be cautious. Adding sulfur can be detrimental to your soil if you over acidify. You're also able to apply the powder at a higher rate in soil that does not have any plants currently growing. Start small YOU CAN ALWAYS ADD MORE.
Low pH – too acidic More common in moist climates due to rainfall leaching nutrients form the soil such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. What should you add: Used Coffee Grounds work in the grounds in the first 4-6” of soil (or around the base if your crops are already planted). Compost!!! You can never go wrong with this stuff. It is the ultimate soil pH buffer, as mentioned above. LAST RESORT: Fine Dolomitic Flower. As with sulfur, do not add too much at first as you can make your soil situation worse than it currently stands. Dolomite has a neutral pH of 7, and can never raise the pH above 7. Though it stabilizes the pH safely, beware that adding too much may lock-out nutrients from being absorobed by the roots.
Words of Advice: Try not to use the two methods that have been labeled as last resorts, as they are both aggressive practices to lowering soil pH. Think of it as the battle between western medicine vs. holistic medicine. It may fix the immediate symptoms at hand, but consequently is distressing the whole plant in the long run. Anything foreign (other than compost) will upset the delicate balance of life that has been growing in your garden. It is counter intuitive to destroy microbial life in your soil because that is what helps foster your plants' vigorous and healthy growth. THE ANSWER TO IT ALL: COMPOST
STEP 2
SOIL PREPARATIONS
Going Deep(er than your box) ...base soil preparations for a kick-ass garden!
Double-dig X Hügelkultur X Lasagna COMBO-METHOD Why this method? Well, if you perform this method, you will be reaping the benefits of using all three methods in one. What are the benefits you may ask? You will be loosening up the soil, increasing water retention, and minimizing destruction of existing microbial life, while at the same time introducing more organic food and creating the opportunity for much more microbial activity in the future. What you will be left with after is a bed of excellent soil. Plus, this bed will continue to improve its ability to nurture your plants for several years to come due to presence of decomposing wood. STEPS: • • • •
• • • • • •
Map an outline of your grow space(s). Clear off any sod in the areas marked and save for later. Use a pitchfork or shovel to loosen the soil a bit. Lay down a thin layer of sticks, branches, and chopped wood. Leave enough space around the edges for placement of garden bed walls, unless you have already built your raised bed enclosure. Must not be fresh cut wood! If the wood is starting to rot, it is perfect for the pile. Throw raw-ish compost (still identifiable materials) onto the wood. Layer the sod you removed, green side down, over the organic waste and wood. Add leaves and compost over the top in another layer. Layer the top with dry coco coir or straw (from a verified source that did not use herbicides or pesticides). Lastly, hose the pile down and cover with a tarp for a month or two.
Editor’s Note It is suggested to use this method even if you are not going to be using raised beds. The result will leave you with a slightly elevated mound. When deciding mound orientation, factoring in sunlight is key. It will ensure that your plants are not deprived of energy and will allow them to grow without any restraints.
SIMPLE ALTERNATIVE If you are growing shallow rooting plants or just do not have the time and effort, it is not necessary to prepare the bottom soil to the extent as mentioned on the previous page.
You may perform one of the below in place: LIGHT PREP: Remove any sod in place. Loosen up soil with a pitchfork or shovel. Simultaneously mix in compost blend. Your soil is now prepped for construction of the bed. LINING THE BASE WITH STONE OR WOOD: This will help prevent weeds from invading your garden space. Only use this method when only growing shallow rooting plants.
NUTRIENTS [ONLY ORGANIC]
A THING OR TWO YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT COMPOST: Using compost that has not adequately matured may cause chemical burns on plants. This can sometime occur because unfinished compost will compete with the plants for the use of soil nitrogen. Interesting right? Also, freshly finished compost should not be used for starting sensitive seedlings such as tomatoes and peppers because it may lead to damping-off disease. This disease is caused by a number of different pathogens that weaken and kill both seeds and seedlings. This mainly occurs in overtly damp soils, such as compost. Now, off to find out the best method of composting...
THE MAIN CONTENDERS:
HOT COMPOSTING VS.
VERMICOMPOSTING Composting is nature’s process of recycling decomposed organic materials into a rich soil. Compost will build soil structure, retain moisture, increase soil organic matter, and provide a slow release of nutrients (important for plant growth).
Hot Composting – What is it?
Vermicomposting – What is it?
A hot compost pile will require you to periodically turn the contents to provide oxygen and combine decaying solids. This process allows the microorganisms within to further breakdown organic matter. In addition, you must provide optimal conditions of heat and moisture for the microorganisms to thrive.
Sounds like someone said worm? Kinda. Vermicomposting is the practice of using worms to turn your organic waste into nutrient-rich fertilizer. Worms aerate the soil when burrowing through, while their castings improve soil fertility, water holding ability, and drainage.
PROS // CONS Hot Composting PROS • Enables processing of larger quantities of materials in a smaller area. • Can proceed relatively quickly under ideal conditions. • Can kill weed seeds and pathogens. • On a large scale can proceed easily in cold weather. CONS • Can be labor-intensive (piling wastes, turning pile, etc.) and require more attention. • Heat can kill off many beneficial microbes. • May require some stock-piling until sufficient starting materials are available for a complete ‘batch’. • Heating can lead to considerable nitrogen loss.
Vermicomposting PROS • Tends to be somewhat less labor-intensive – no turning/aerating necessary (worm activity helps to mix, fragment and aerate materials) • Cooler temperatures help to conserve nitrogen • Higher moisture contents not an issue (and actually preferred) • Materials can be constantly added (no need to stock pile in preparation for next ‘batch’) • Size of system is not particularly important – ideally for both indoor and outdoor locations • Considerable academic evidence to indicate that vermicomposts have beneficial properties not found in hot composts • Under ideal conditions, wastes can be processed very quickly CONS • Won’t kill seeds (and although there is a fair amount of evidence to indicate pathogen destruction, more research is required) • More space required to process similar amounts as hot composting – need to be careful with amount added (since excess heat will kill worms) • Outdoor systems much more limited by cold weather • Worms need to be separated from compost • Worms (although quite resilient) do require some attention and proper care.
HOW TO HOT COMPOST What you’ll need... A C O N TA I N E R A well-designed bin will retain both moisture and heat. Types: • Rotating — Will help speed up decomposition. Allows for easier aeration and higher heat retention. • Stationary — Must use compost aerator or similar tool to mix/aerate the contents. A S U N N Y LO C AT I O N Make sure to place to container in a sunny location to help speed up decomposition. THE PERFECT INGREDIENTS — for a low maintenance pile • Brown Plant Matter — Wood chips and dry leaves • Green Plant Matter — Kitchen waste and grass clippings (chemical free lawn) • Moisture
Tips for ingredients: If the answer is no to the questions below, forgo adding it to your compost pile. • Is it biodegradable? • Will it help make high-quality, nutrient-rich compost? • Did it come from a chemical-free lawn? • Is it free of disease, toxins, and other contaminants?
WORMS & VERMICOMPOSTING Types of worms to use: • Eisenia fetida – Red Wrigglers, the kings of compost • Eisenia hortensis – European Night Crawler
Where to buy? From a reputable online worm farm. The max price you should pay is $20 per pound, plus shipping. Any higher and you're getting ripped off. If you have a neighbor who composts, you can grab a few if they let you. They shouldn't have a problem with sharing either because once you start a vermicompost bin, worm population will double in about 90 days when optimal conditions are provided. So if you're cool with your neighbor and they have been vermicomposting or have their own vermiculture, you should ask for some worms!
How to maximize composting? Weigh the amount of organic waste you throw away each day for a week. Once you have an average set, you can then figure out how many worms to add. Weigh your worms prior to adding them to your compost pile. Red Wrigglers can eat about half of their weight in food every day. This means you must add twice the amount of worms in weight as you do food. If you add about one pound of organic waste to your compost pile each day, you should buy two pounds of worms to eat through the mess. It is important not to over-feed your worms in the beginning. Worms need to wait until the microbial populations slowly accumulate. Feed them lightly during the first few weeks, until they are settled into their new environment. Also, it is very important that you take into account other external factors that can affect the productivity of the worms. You may need to modify the amount of organic waste you give the worms depending on the environment you can provide. One pertinent factor to be aware of is that the amount of organic matter worms can decompose is primarily dependent on temperature. Even though there are other factors that can affect the worms' productivity, keep an eye out for how quickly your organic waste is decomposed. Then, depending on that observation, modify how often and how much you input.
THE WORM TOWER [Café of Life]
What is a Worm Tower? A worm tower is a tower-like enclosure that houses your organic kitchen waste. An effective worm tower will be vertically set in the soil with about 1/3 of the tower above ground. The underground portion will have holes drilled on all sides to allow the worms to move about the garden and return when hungry.
Why would you want to build one? Worm towers take permaculture to a whole new level. They are a super efficient way to incorporate composting into your garden while eliminating a few steps of the composting process. Worms will do a couple of things when you build a tower for them in your garden. The most important being that they will turn your organic kitchen waste into compost. Simultaneously, the worms aerate and fertilize your soil by creating tunnels depositing their black gold throughout.
How to build one? W H AT YO U W I L L N E E D : • Wood • Dry carbon material • Dry grass (non-fertilized) • Straw (organic) • Coco Coir • Aged manure from any vegetable eating animal (rabbits, horses, cows, llamas, etc.). Animals must be free of de-worming medication and “grass-fed” – no fake stuff. • Collect and shred massive amounts of fall leaves; shredded leaves make the finest disease-preventing, soil-enhancing, plant-feeding compost. • Newspaper - there is little to no nutrition left in processed paper, and it won't add much — if any — fertilizing or disease-preventing power to the finished product. Try avoiding using such material. • Power Drill .5” – 1” drill bit • Hammer and nails or metal hose clamps. • Mesh screen (to keep out flies and other pests if your cap is not completely sealed) • Organic waste
Maintenance You will need to clean out the worm tower every 6 months to a year to make room for more compost. What you will be left with are the nutritious worm castings that did not make it out into the garden. Spread the castings throughout your garden or use elsewhere as you wish.
HOW TO
CONSTRUCT A RAISED BED Materials you will need: Any materials can be used to create an enclosure, as long as it is not toxic. Keep in mind that the material must last a reasonable length of time as it will be exposed to the weather – hot and cold temperatures, rain, and sunlight. With that being said, timber is our first choice, as we strive to keep things as natural as possible. If you choose this route, you must come to terms with the idea of eventually having to replace the wood as it decomposes over time. It is natural. Bricks, concrete blocks, pavers, etc. fall second on our list. T O X I C I T Y ! DO NOT USE TREATED OR PAINTED TIMBER Traditional CCA (Copper Chrome Arsenate) treated pine contains arsenic, a poison which will leach into the soil and be consumed by your plants, not to mention what it might do to your soil, which is a living ecosystem. CCA treated pine is toxic when working with it, handling, drilling or cutting it…as is burning it. As a result of the arsenic scare from CCA, ACQ (Copper and Quaternary Ammonium Compound) treated pine was offered on the market. It was hyped as being a newer, safer type of treated pine, but this by no means makes it safe! A variety of timber treatments exist, all being toxic. Treatments such as creosote (often used on old recycled railway sleepers) and other treatments such as LOSP (Light Organic Solvent Preservative) are all toxic. Untreated timber will eventually decompose, as with all things natural. The world is a living organism, and that is how it works. It is best to understand this concept and to not introduce toxic materials into our lives.
Working the Wood HOW WIDE SHOULD I MAKE MY BOXES? The optimum size of a raised bed is 4 feet wide or less, at any length. The reason for this maximum width is a matter of ergonomics. This is the maximum width that will allow a person to reach across the area of the bed efficiently from either side. Stepping on your raised bed is a no-no as it will compact your soil over time. H O W TA L L S H O U L D I M A K E M Y B OX E S ? For most vegetables, the bulk of the root mass is within the top six inches of soil. This soil should be light and well aerated to allow roots to access available nutrients. Deeper soil provides additional nutrients and trace minerals, which further facilitate plant growth.
Plants will send roots deeper if the soil conditions permit it to do so. When preparing soil for raised beds, 'double-digging' the soil will aerate this deeper soil and clear it of rocks and debris. Please see “Soil Depth Requirements”. If a plant requires more area for root growth, limiting its space may cause the plant to be root-bounded. This idea is especially important when plants are to be planted in containers – roots will grow in search of water and nutrients. If the container is too small, the roots will travel and wrap around the sides, eventually causing the plant to choke itself. The same idea can be used to help you decide whether or not to prepare the soil beneath the raised bed. If the soil is too compact, the roots will have a hard time penetrating, causing the roots to grow outward, stealing water and nutrients from smaller nearby plants. If the bed is taller than 12" and longer than 6', it is suggested to have a cross-support beam in the center across the width of the bed to keep the sides from bowing outwards. The cross-support can be made using wood as well. SIDE NOTE: W A T E R This garden design is perfect for drip irrigation, which is an efficient way to water the garden. Minimizes loss by evaporation and reduces disease by not wetting the plant’s leaves. SIDE NOTE: S U N You will need a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Run your rows north to south to allow sunlight to hit both sides of the plant. Most vegetables require direct sunlight, but leafy vegetables can tolerate shade. With this knowledge, you must decide the layout of your plants. Remember not to place taller plants in areas that will block the sun from reaching lower lying plants, unless they can tolerate the shade. Also, something to keep in mind when designing the layout of your garden plants is companion planting.
DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEM First things first: A LW AY S P L A N T F I R S T, T H E N I N S TA L L . This will prevent you from having to do more work redesigning and modifying your previously installed drip system to fit your newly planted garden's needs.
What a drip system entails: A drip system is a super efficient way to water your plants; conserving water that would normally run past the roots with conventional sprinkler watering. Studies have shown that well designed drip systems use at least 30%, and in some cases 50%, less water than conventional methods of watering. Drip systems also can be set on a timer, minimizing the work that needs to be done by you. Before you set the timer and walk away for good, ensure that you are delivering the optimum amount of water to your plants; no more, no less. Monitor it for a couple of days and adjust accordingly, reroute if necessary. Next on our list:
Types of Low Volume Irrigation M I C R O - S P R A Y E R S — Large and Small Ensure that the sprayers you purchase allow you to adjust the radius of spray. Sprayers are available in half circle and full circle patterns. MICRO-BUBBLERS Ensure that the bubblers you purchase allow you to adjust the radius of spray. Bubblers are available in half circle and full circle patters. DRIP EMITTERS Emitters can drip from the emitter itself, or connect to smaller lines and tubes extending the path of irrigation. Emitters are available in various flow rates ranging form. Use pressure compensating emitters when there is a difference in elevation greater than 5 feet. Use turbulent flow emitters when the garden space is level. DRIP LINES These lines are what you would connect to the drip emitter to extend the path of watering. Drip lines have smaller holes which leak water out. Lines are typically ran parallel to garden rows or wrapped around the base of bigger plants.
MUST TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION: Plant Types and Their Root Systems In terms of your garden layout, these properties will affect each plants' location, which will consequently affect the location of emitters.
Soil Types One of the most significant differences between soil types is the way in which they absorb and hold water. The more homogeneous the soil in the planting area is, the more uniform the water distribution will be.
Properties For coarse soils: large and small micro-sprayers will work best as water is more likely to be absorbed vertically and not spread very far horizontally. For medium soils: all types of emitters will work since water distribution is fairly balanced between vertical and horizontal spread. The main thing to focus on would be the layout of your system. For fine soils: drip emitters, micro-bubblers, and drip lines are the best options. This is because water needs to fill each layer of the sold before it can flow to the next level. In fine soil, water spreads outwards before it will flow downwards.
Site conditions R AT E O F P R E C I P I TAT I O N : If your area receives plenty of precipitation, additional watering will cause your plants to wilt. Drowning your plants is an invitation for disease. Think about plants as if they were humans… if we are stressed, we are more prone to sickness, disease,
and early death. The same principal can be applied to plants. Root rotting will occur and plants will not have access to the nutrients and water they need. WIND: If your location is too windy, micro-bubblers and micro-sprayers may be rendered ineffective. An elaborate trail of drip emitters will have to be used in place. S U N & H E AT: These elements will determine your watering times. You will waste the most water if you water during the heat of the day because of increased evaporation rates. Water in the morning if: • You live in a humid climate • You are watering plants that are prone to foliage diseases • You are wetting the plant foliage as well as the soil. Constant wetness promotes disease and fungal growth. Water at night if: • You have no disease problems in the garden • You live in an arid climate • You use a drip-irrigation system that waters the soil, not the plant leaves Water saving tips: • Use mulch! Space plants in close proximity. Group crops that have similar water needs. Get ceative!
THOSE PESTS How to Prevent? There are a couple of things you can do to prevent pests from making your food their home. Companion planting is the best in my opinion. Again, it is permaculture at its finest. You're creating a natural environment that actually deters certain pests that can and will harm your crops. For example, lets take a look at carrots. A common pest of the root is the Chamaepsila rosae, more commonly known as the carrot fly. If a fly lays its eggs and they hatch, all of the larvae will then eat the outer layers of the root leading the plant to a slow death. If you plant onions or leeks in close proximity, carrot flies will be naturally repelled from laying their eggs and your yield will not take a hit. Plus you keep those nasty pesticides away from your food. For more information, see the reference document we have put together for you. Another method of mimicking nature to repel pests is to build a small sanctuary garden that will attract and harbor beneficial insects.
Basic Beneficial Insects Brachonids, Chalcids and Ichneumon Wasps are predators of leaf-eating catepillars. They are all attracted by: Carrots, celery, parsley, caraway, and Queen Anne’s lace. Ladybugs are predators of aphids, mites, whiteflies, and scale. Lady bugs are attracted by tansy and yarrow. They can also be purchased online or in select stores to combat a previously infested garden. Lacewings and Hoverflies are predators of aphids and other common insect pests. They both are attracted by yarrow, goldenrod, black-eyed susans, and asters. Lacewings, like Ladybugs can be purchased online or in select stores. Praying Mantes are predators of most garden pests. They lays their eggs out in the garden, where they quickly mature. These eggs can be purchased online or in select stores.
Nematodes are effective against cutworms, beetles, and root weevil larvae. They can be purchased online or in select stores.
Treatment: Homemade Remedies Garlic and Red-Pepper Spray: Blend 1 large bulb of garlic and 1 tbsp of ground cayenne pepper in 1 qt of water. Steep the mixture overnight and strain into a sprayer or watering can, refrigerating the remainder in an airtight jar for later use. It will be viable to use for several weeks on all kinds of sucking and chewing insects: Japanese Beetles, borers, leafhoppers, slugs, deer, and rabbits. Rhubarb Spray: Gather 1 lb of chopped rhubarb leaves and mix in 1 qt of water. Boil for 30 minutes then strain mixture into a sprayer, refrigerating the remainder in an airtight jar for later use. The spray will be viable against aphids and other common garden pests.
T H E
UR B A N
M O N K
STEP 1
DECIDING HOW & WHAT YOU WILL GROW Traditional In-Ground Garden Rototilling? What are the benefits? Harm? The biggest downfall of rototilling is that it chops up soil particles too well. It destroys plant roots that live beneath the surface of the soil and upsets the microcosm of organisms that have been working so hard to break down the soil for you – bacteria, fungi, earthworms, nemotodes, and insects, to name a few. Rototilling also creates a pan of hard soil beneath the tilled layer. Your plants will find it very difficult to push their roots through this, consequently limiting their growth. It can also bring weed seeds up to the surface of the soil and create more weeding work for you later in the season. Research has revealed that there is one situation where you might want to rototill your backyard: only if you're starting out with a first-year garden, and you've discovered that your soil is extremely compacted and challenging to plant in. Despite this, it will still be better to double-dig or use the pitchfork technique: The Pitchfork Technique Spread composted soil onto your future garden space. Use a pitchfork to vertically stab holes down into the earth, into which the freshly composted soil will fall and mingle with what's already there. This will aerate the soil and preserve the existing ecosystem of worms and their tunnels. Add more compost if necessary.
Deep Raised Beds The benefits: Better Soil Conditions — Keeps pathway weeds from your garden soil. Prevents soil compaction. Provides excellent drainage and serves as a barrier to pests such as slugs and snails. More Efficient Irrigation — Keeps your valuable garden soil from being eroded or washed away during heavy rains. Aids in water conservation while at the same time allows you to enrich and build the soil through the constant addition of organic matter. Increased Productivity over Traditional In-Ground Gardens — According to Pete Lane at Ohio State University, “In a traditional home [in-ground] garden, good management may yield about .6 pounds of vegetables per square foot. Records of production over three years in a raised bed at Dawes Arboretum near Newark, Ohio, indicate an average of 1.24 pounds per square foot, more than double the conventional yield.”
NOW COMES THE WHAT The Seasons & What to Plant Hopefully you have grasped a better idea of what your gardening area will soon look like. The next step would be to decide what to put in it! Planting by Height Ensure that what you are planting will not outgrow nearby plants and block them from sunlight. We have compiled a list of common plants with data on anticipated plant height. See reference document below. Planting by Soil pH Keep in mind that some plants prefer a slightly acidic or basic environment. You may want to isolate them in a separate container so soil pH management will be easier as well as minimizing inhibitory effects on neighboring plants. Planting for Nature's Benfits Companion Planting is a way to maximize growth and deter pests the way nature intended. You are essentially mimicking natural ecosystems, which have been proven to foster healthy vigorous plant growth. Companion planting can also deter harmful pests which will stress and kill your plants if left untreated. To learn how you can maximize your garden, check out the companion plant list we've created for you. See reference document below. Planting by Season For areas that stay relatively warm throughout the year, you will have more freedom with what you are able to plant. For areas that actually experience real seasons, choosing the correct seeds to plant becomes imperative. We've created a small chart referencing which weather conditions common plants can tolerate. Use this to base what type of plants you choose to grow during each season. See reference document below. click here to download the reference document
what does your soil look like?
SOIL ANALYSIS Soil Types One of the most significant differences between different soil types is the way in which they absorb and hold water. The more homogeneous the soil in the planting area is, the more uniform the water distribution will be.
Properties Coarse Soil — Particles are loose. If squeezed in the hand when dry, it will fall apart when released. If squeezed when moist, it will form a cast, but will crumble easily when touched. Water is more likely to be absorbed vertically, but will not spread very far horizontally. Medium Soil — Has a moderate amount of fine sand grains and very little clay. When dry, it can be readily broken. If squeezed when wet, it will form a cast that can be easily handled. Water distribution is halfway between that of coarse and fine soil water distribution. Fine Soil — When dry, it will form hard lumps or clods. When wet, the soil is quite malleable. If squeezed between the thumb and forefinger, the soil will form a ribbon that will not crack. Water is more likely to spread horizontally than flow vertically.
SOIL OPTIONS Using what you got! 50% screened top soil / 50% high-quality compost
Mel’s Mix by Mel Bartholemew (with some not so sustainable ingredients) 1/3 Peat Moss • Not sustainable! Mining causes problems associated with carbon emissions and climate change. Also, peat moss takes a long time to regenerate. A fully mined peat bog will not be able to support a second harvest by miners for at least 3,000 years. Can a resource that renews itself this slowly ever be considered sustainable? 1/3 Coarse Horticultural Grade Vermiculite • Another finite resource; a byproduct of mining shale. 1/3 Compost Blend • Unless you are starting your own compost and will have the amount needed readily available, then you will need to purchase compost. Since most commercial compost is byproduct of a single industry, you should purchase different types (about 5) and mix them to ensure a variety of nutrients are being put into your soil.
pH SAMPLE If you decide to use your own soil, either for raised beds or a traditional in-ground garden, it is a good idea to take a few soil pH samples.
Why is pH important? The pH of your soil affects the availability of nutrients to the plants. Too acidic or too basic and nutrient lockout will occur. Your plants will then display the same symptoms as nutrient deficiency. [See Diagram] Most garden plants can tolerate a pH of up to 7.5. In soils with a pH above 7.8, iron, zinc, and phosphorous deficiencies are common.
How to test your soil: Buy a kit! Soil pH test kits come with instructions. Be sure to follow these, as there are different applications to testing soil. An easier route is to go digital. Keep in mind that some plants prefer a slightly acidic or basic environment. You may want to isolate these specific plants in a separate container so that managing soil pH will be easier and the resulting pH will not have an inhibitory effect on neighboring plants.
SOIL AMENDMENTS ...when using of a percentage of your top soil.
High pH – too basic High pH is more common in arid climates because rainfall does not have the chance to leach calcium and other basic compounds from the soil. What should you add? Compost because anaerobic organisms in compost produce acids, which will lower pH. Adding compost will slowly lower the pH over time, at the same time increasing microbial life and improving the structure of your soil, creating the ultimate pH buffer. Acidic Organic Mulches such as pine needle mulch. Although it is acidic, it will eventually be buffered out by the soil. Consequently, this is only a temporary fix for acid-loving plants. You will need to constantly add this mulch to your soil to benefit from its acidic properties. LAST RESORT: Sulfur Powder or Flowers of Sulfur. Be cautious. Adding sulfur can be detrimental to your soil if you over acidify. You're also able to apply the powder at a higher rate in soil that does not have any plants currently growing. Start small YOU CAN ALWAYS ADD MORE.
Low pH – too acidic More common in moist climates due to rainfall leaching nutrients form the soil such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. What should you add: Used Coffee Grounds work in the grounds in the first 4-6” of soil (or around the base if your crops are already planted). Compost!!! You can never go wrong with this stuff. It is the ultimate soil pH buffer, as mentioned above. LAST RESORT: Fine Dolomitic Flower. As with sulfur, do not add too much at first as you can make your soil situation worse than it currently stands. Dolomite has a neutral pH of 7, and can never raise the pH above 7. Though it stabilizes the pH safely, beware that adding too much may lock-out nutrients from being absorobed by the roots.
Words of Advice: Try not to use the two methods that have been labeled as last resorts, as they are both aggressive practices to lowering soil pH. Think of it as the battle between western medicine vs. holistic medicine. It may fix the immediate symptoms at hand, but consequently is distressing the whole plant in the long run. Anything foreign (other than compost) will upset the delicate balance of life that has been growing in your garden. It is counter intuitive to destroy microbial life in your soil because that is what helps foster your plants' vigorous and healthy growth. THE ANSWER TO IT ALL: COMPOST
STEP 2
SOIL PREPARATIONS
Going Deep(er than your box) ...base soil preparations for a kick-ass garden!
Double-dig X Hügelkultur X Lasagna COMBO-METHOD Why this method? Well, if you perform this method, you will be reaping the benefits of using all three methods in one. What are the benefits you may ask? You will be loosening up the soil, increasing water retention, and minimizing destruction of existing microbial life, while at the same time introducing more organic food and creating the opportunity for much more microbial activity in the future. What you will be left with after is a bed of excellent soil. Plus, this bed will continue to improve its ability to nurture your plants for several years to come due to presence of decomposing wood. STEPS: • • • •
• • • • • •
Map an outline of your grow space(s). Clear off any sod in the areas marked and save for later. Use a pitchfork or shovel to loosen the soil a bit. Lay down a thin layer of sticks, branches, and chopped wood. Leave enough space around the edges for placement of garden bed walls, unless you have already built your raised bed enclosure. Must not be fresh cut wood! If the wood is starting to rot, it is perfect for the pile. Throw raw-ish compost (still identifiable materials) onto the wood. Layer the sod you removed, green side down, over the organic waste and wood. Add leaves and compost over the top in another layer. Layer the top with dry coco coir or straw (from a verified source that did not use herbicides or pesticides). Lastly, hose the pile down and cover with a tarp for a month or two.
Editor’s Note It is suggested to use this method even if you are not going to be using raised beds. The result will leave you with a slightly elevated mound. When deciding mound orientation, factoring in sunlight is key. It will ensure that your plants are not deprived of energy and will allow them to grow without any restraints.
SIMPLE ALTERNATIVE If you are growing shallow rooting plants or just do not have the time and effort, it is not necessary to prepare the bottom soil to the extent as mentioned on the previous page.
You may perform one of the below in place: LIGHT PREP: Remove any sod in place. Loosen up soil with a pitchfork or shovel. Simultaneously mix in compost blend. Your soil is now prepped for construction of the bed. LINING THE BASE WITH STONE OR WOOD: This will help prevent weeds from invading your garden space. Only use this method when only growing shallow rooting plants.
NUTRIENTS [ONLY ORGANIC]
A THING OR TWO YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT COMPOST: Using compost that has not adequately matured may cause chemical burns on plants. This can sometime occur because unfinished compost will compete with the plants for the use of soil nitrogen. Interesting right? Also, freshly finished compost should not be used for starting sensitive seedlings such as tomatoes and peppers because it may lead to damping-off disease. This disease is caused by a number of different pathogens that weaken and kill both seeds and seedlings. This mainly occurs in overtly damp soils, such as compost. Now, off to find out the best method of composting...
THE MAIN CONTENDERS:
HOT COMPOSTING VS.
VERMICOMPOSTING Composting is nature’s process of recycling decomposed organic materials into a rich soil. Compost will build soil structure, retain moisture, increase soil organic matter, and provide a slow release of nutrients (important for plant growth).
Hot Composting – What is it?
Vermicomposting – What is it?
A hot compost pile will require you to periodically turn the contents to provide oxygen and combine decaying solids. This process allows the microorganisms within to further breakdown organic matter. In addition, you must provide optimal conditions of heat and moisture for the microorganisms to thrive.
Sounds like someone said worm? Kinda. Vermicomposting is the practice of using worms to turn your organic waste into nutrient-rich fertilizer. Worms aerate the soil when burrowing through, while their castings improve soil fertility, water holding ability, and drainage.
PROS // CONS Hot Composting PROS • Enables processing of larger quantities of materials in a smaller area. • Can proceed relatively quickly under ideal conditions. • Can kill weed seeds and pathogens. • On a large scale can proceed easily in cold weather. CONS • Can be labor-intensive (piling wastes, turning pile, etc.) and require more attention. • Heat can kill off many beneficial microbes. • May require some stock-piling until sufficient starting materials are available for a complete ‘batch’. • Heating can lead to considerable nitrogen loss.
Vermicomposting PROS • Tends to be somewhat less labor-intensive – no turning/aerating necessary (worm activity helps to mix, fragment and aerate materials) • Cooler temperatures help to conserve nitrogen • Higher moisture contents not an issue (and actually preferred) • Materials can be constantly added (no need to stock pile in preparation for next ‘batch’) • Size of system is not particularly important – ideally for both indoor and outdoor locations • Considerable academic evidence to indicate that vermicomposts have beneficial properties not found in hot composts • Under ideal conditions, wastes can be processed very quickly CONS • Won’t kill seeds (and although there is a fair amount of evidence to indicate pathogen destruction, more research is required) • More space required to process similar amounts as hot composting – need to be careful with amount added (since excess heat will kill worms) • Outdoor systems much more limited by cold weather • Worms need to be separated from compost • Worms (although quite resilient) do require some attention and proper care.
HOW TO HOT COMPOST What you’ll need... A C O N TA I N E R A well-designed bin will retain both moisture and heat. Types: • Rotating — Will help speed up decomposition. Allows for easier aeration and higher heat retention. • Stationary — Must use compost aerator or similar tool to mix/aerate the contents. A S U N N Y LO C AT I O N Make sure to place to container in a sunny location to help speed up decomposition. THE PERFECT INGREDIENTS — for a low maintenance pile • Brown Plant Matter — Wood chips and dry leaves • Green Plant Matter — Kitchen waste and grass clippings (chemical free lawn) • Moisture
Tips for ingredients: If the answer is no to the questions below, forgo adding it to your compost pile. • Is it biodegradable? • Will it help make high-quality, nutrient-rich compost? • Did it come from a chemical-free lawn? • Is it free of disease, toxins, and other contaminants?
WORMS & VERMICOMPOSTING Types of worms to use: • Eisenia fetida – Red Wrigglers, the kings of compost • Eisenia hortensis – European Night Crawler
Where to buy? From a reputable online worm farm. The max price you should pay is $20 per pound, plus shipping. Any higher and you're getting ripped off. If you have a neighbor who composts, you can grab a few if they let you. They shouldn't have a problem with sharing either because once you start a vermicompost bin, worm population will double in about 90 days when optimal conditions are provided. So if you're cool with your neighbor and they have been vermicomposting or have their own vermiculture, you should ask for some worms!
How to maximize composting? Weigh the amount of organic waste you throw away each day for a week. Once you have an average set, you can then figure out how many worms to add. Weigh your worms prior to adding them to your compost pile. Red Wrigglers can eat about half of their weight in food every day. This means you must add twice the amount of worms in weight as you do food. If you add about one pound of organic waste to your compost pile each day, you should buy two pounds of worms to eat through the mess. It is important not to over-feed your worms in the beginning. Worms need to wait until the microbial populations slowly accumulate. Feed them lightly during the first few weeks, until they are settled into their new environment. Also, it is very important that you take into account other external factors that can affect the productivity of the worms. You may need to modify the amount of organic waste you give the worms depending on the environment you can provide. One pertinent factor to be aware of is that the amount of organic matter worms can decompose is primarily dependent on temperature. Even though there are other factors that can affect the worms' productivity, keep an eye out for how quickly your organic waste is decomposed. Then, depending on that observation, modify how often and how much you input.
THE WORM TOWER [Café of Life]
What is a Worm Tower? A worm tower is a tower-like enclosure that houses your organic kitchen waste. An effective worm tower will be vertically set in the soil with about 1/3 of the tower above ground. The underground portion will have holes drilled on all sides to allow the worms to move about the garden and return when hungry.
Why would you want to build one? Worm towers take permaculture to a whole new level. They are a super efficient way to incorporate composting into your garden while eliminating a few steps of the composting process. Worms will do a couple of things when you build a tower for them in your garden. The most important being that they will turn your organic kitchen waste into compost. Simultaneously, the worms aerate and fertilize your soil by creating tunnels depositing their black gold throughout.
How to build one? W H AT YO U W I L L N E E D : • Wood • Dry carbon material • Dry grass (non-fertilized) • Straw (organic) • Coco Coir • Aged manure from any vegetable eating animal (rabbits, horses, cows, llamas, etc.). Animals must be free of de-worming medication and “grass-fed” – no fake stuff. • Collect and shred massive amounts of fall leaves; shredded leaves make the finest disease-preventing, soil-enhancing, plant-feeding compost. • Newspaper - there is little to no nutrition left in processed paper, and it won't add much — if any — fertilizing or disease-preventing power to the finished product. Try avoiding using such material. • Power Drill .5” – 1” drill bit • Hammer and nails or metal hose clamps. • Mesh screen (to keep out flies and other pests if your cap is not completely sealed) • Organic waste
Maintenance You will need to clean out the worm tower every 6 months to a year to make room for more compost. What you will be left with are the nutritious worm castings that did not make it out into the garden. Spread the castings throughout your garden or use elsewhere as you wish.
HOW TO
CONSTRUCT A RAISED BED Materials you will need: Any materials can be used to create an enclosure, as long as it is not toxic. Keep in mind that the material must last a reasonable length of time as it will be exposed to the weather – hot and cold temperatures, rain, and sunlight. With that being said, timber is our first choice, as we strive to keep things as natural as possible. If you choose this route, you must come to terms with the idea of eventually having to replace the wood as it decomposes over time. It is natural. Bricks, concrete blocks, pavers, etc. fall second on our list. T O X I C I T Y ! DO NOT USE TREATED OR PAINTED TIMBER Traditional CCA (Copper Chrome Arsenate) treated pine contains arsenic, a poison which will leach into the soil and be consumed by your plants, not to mention what it might do to your soil, which is a living ecosystem. CCA treated pine is toxic when working with it, handling, drilling or cutting it…as is burning it. As a result of the arsenic scare from CCA, ACQ (Copper and Quaternary Ammonium Compound) treated pine was offered on the market. It was hyped as being a newer, safer type of treated pine, but this by no means makes it safe! A variety of timber treatments exist, all being toxic. Treatments such as creosote (often used on old recycled railway sleepers) and other treatments such as LOSP (Light Organic Solvent Preservative) are all toxic. Untreated timber will eventually decompose, as with all things natural. The world is a living organism, and that is how it works. It is best to understand this concept and to not introduce toxic materials into our lives.
Working the Wood HOW WIDE SHOULD I MAKE MY BOXES? The optimum size of a raised bed is 4 feet wide or less, at any length. The reason for this maximum width is a matter of ergonomics. This is the maximum width that will allow a person to reach across the area of the bed efficiently from either side. Stepping on your raised bed is a no-no as it will compact your soil over time. H O W TA L L S H O U L D I M A K E M Y B OX E S ? For most vegetables, the bulk of the root mass is within the top six inches of soil. This soil should be light and well aerated to allow roots to access available nutrients. Deeper soil provides additional nutrients and trace minerals, which further facilitate plant growth.
Plants will send roots deeper if the soil conditions permit it to do so. When preparing soil for raised beds, 'double-digging' the soil will aerate this deeper soil and clear it of rocks and debris. Please see “Soil Depth Requirements”. If a plant requires more area for root growth, limiting its space may cause the plant to be root-bounded. This idea is especially important when plants are to be planted in containers – roots will grow in search of water and nutrients. If the container is too small, the roots will travel and wrap around the sides, eventually causing the plant to choke itself. The same idea can be used to help you decide whether or not to prepare the soil beneath the raised bed. If the soil is too compact, the roots will have a hard time penetrating, causing the roots to grow outward, stealing water and nutrients from smaller nearby plants. If the bed is taller than 12" and longer than 6', it is suggested to have a cross-support beam in the center across the width of the bed to keep the sides from bowing outwards. The cross-support can be made using wood as well. SIDE NOTE: W A T E R This garden design is perfect for drip irrigation, which is an efficient way to water the garden. Minimizes loss by evaporation and reduces disease by not wetting the plant’s leaves. SIDE NOTE: S U N You will need a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Run your rows north to south to allow sunlight to hit both sides of the plant. Most vegetables require direct sunlight, but leafy vegetables can tolerate shade. With this knowledge, you must decide the layout of your plants. Remember not to place taller plants in areas that will block the sun from reaching lower lying plants, unless they can tolerate the shade. Also, something to keep in mind when designing the layout of your garden plants is companion planting.
DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEM First things first: A LW AY S P L A N T F I R S T, T H E N I N S TA L L . This will prevent you from having to do more work redesigning and modifying your previously installed drip system to fit your newly planted garden's needs.
What a drip system entails: A drip system is a super efficient way to water your plants; conserving water that would normally run past the roots with conventional sprinkler watering. Studies have shown that well designed drip systems use at least 30%, and in some cases 50%, less water than conventional methods of watering. Drip systems also can be set on a timer, minimizing the work that needs to be done by you. Before you set the timer and walk away for good, ensure that you are delivering the optimum amount of water to your plants; no more, no less. Monitor it for a couple of days and adjust accordingly, reroute if necessary. Next on our list:
Types of Low Volume Irrigation M I C R O - S P R A Y E R S — Large and Small Ensure that the sprayers you purchase allow you to adjust the radius of spray. Sprayers are available in half circle and full circle patterns. MICRO-BUBBLERS Ensure that the bubblers you purchase allow you to adjust the radius of spray. Bubblers are available in half circle and full circle patters. DRIP EMITTERS Emitters can drip from the emitter itself, or connect to smaller lines and tubes extending the path of irrigation. Emitters are available in various flow rates ranging form. Use pressure compensating emitters when there is a difference in elevation greater than 5 feet. Use turbulent flow emitters when the garden space is level. DRIP LINES These lines are what you would connect to the drip emitter to extend the path of watering. Drip lines have smaller holes which leak water out. Lines are typically ran parallel to garden rows or wrapped around the base of bigger plants.
MUST TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION: Plant Types and Their Root Systems In terms of your garden layout, these properties will affect each plants' location, which will consequently affect the location of emitters.
Soil Types One of the most significant differences between soil types is the way in which they absorb and hold water. The more homogeneous the soil in the planting area is, the more uniform the water distribution will be.
Properties For coarse soils: large and small micro-sprayers will work best as water is more likely to be absorbed vertically and not spread very far horizontally. For medium soils: all types of emitters will work since water distribution is fairly balanced between vertical and horizontal spread. The main thing to focus on would be the layout of your system. For fine soils: drip emitters, micro-bubblers, and drip lines are the best options. This is because water needs to fill each layer of the sold before it can flow to the next level. In fine soil, water spreads outwards before it will flow downwards.
Site conditions R AT E O F P R E C I P I TAT I O N : If your area receives plenty of precipitation, additional watering will cause your plants to wilt. Drowning your plants is an invitation for disease. Think about plants as if they were humans… if we are stressed, we are more prone to sickness, disease,
and early death. The same principal can be applied to plants. Root rotting will occur and plants will not have access to the nutrients and water they need. WIND: If your location is too windy, micro-bubblers and micro-sprayers may be rendered ineffective. An elaborate trail of drip emitters will have to be used in place. S U N & H E AT: These elements will determine your watering times. You will waste the most water if you water during the heat of the day because of increased evaporation rates. Water in the morning if: • You live in a humid climate • You are watering plants that are prone to foliage diseases • You are wetting the plant foliage as well as the soil. Constant wetness promotes disease and fungal growth. Water at night if: • You have no disease problems in the garden • You live in an arid climate • You use a drip-irrigation system that waters the soil, not the plant leaves Water saving tips: • Use mulch! Space plants in close proximity. Group crops that have similar water needs. Get ceative!
THOSE PESTS How to Prevent? There are a couple of things you can do to prevent pests from making your food their home. Companion planting is the best in my opinion. Again, it is permaculture at its finest. You're creating a natural environment that actually deters certain pests that can and will harm your crops. For example, lets take a look at carrots. A common pest of the root is the Chamaepsila rosae, more commonly known as the carrot fly. If a fly lays its eggs and they hatch, all of the larvae will then eat the outer layers of the root leading the plant to a slow death. If you plant onions or leeks in close proximity, carrot flies will be naturally repelled from laying their eggs and your yield will not take a hit. Plus you keep those nasty pesticides away from your food. For more information, see the reference document we have put together for you. Another method of mimicking nature to repel pests is to build a small sanctuary garden that will attract and harbor beneficial insects.
Basic Beneficial Insects Brachonids, Chalcids and Ichneumon Wasps are predators of leaf-eating catepillars. They are all attracted by: Carrots, celery, parsley, caraway, and Queen Anne’s lace. Ladybugs are predators of aphids, mites, whiteflies, and scale. Lady bugs are attracted by tansy and yarrow. They can also be purchased online or in select stores to combat a previously infested garden. Lacewings and Hoverflies are predators of aphids and other common insect pests. They both are attracted by yarrow, goldenrod, black-eyed susans, and asters. Lacewings, like Ladybugs can be purchased online or in select stores. Praying Mantes are predators of most garden pests. They lays their eggs out in the garden, where they quickly mature. These eggs can be purchased online or in select stores.
Nematodes are effective against cutworms, beetles, and root weevil larvae. They can be purchased online or in select stores.
Treatment: Homemade Remedies Garlic and Red-Pepper Spray: Blend 1 large bulb of garlic and 1 tbsp of ground cayenne pepper in 1 qt of water. Steep the mixture overnight and strain into a sprayer or watering can, refrigerating the remainder in an airtight jar for later use. It will be viable to use for several weeks on all kinds of sucking and chewing insects: Japanese Beetles, borers, leafhoppers, slugs, deer, and rabbits. Rhubarb Spray: Gather 1 lb of chopped rhubarb leaves and mix in 1 qt of water. Boil for 30 minutes then strain mixture into a sprayer, refrigerating the remainder in an airtight jar for later use. The spray will be viable against aphids and other common garden pests.
