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Nadia Henderson Website Intern at Eco Age
Berlin Fashion Week
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21.01.13 Fashion We take a look at some of the ethical fashion designers who showed at last week's Berlin Fashion Week. Each Fashion Week happens only twice a year, but it never feels like very much time has passed between one season ending and another beginning. Before long, the Autumn/Winter 2013 shows will be taking place in the style epicentres – London, Paris, Milan and New York – as well as in other global fashion hubs such as Tokyo and Amsterdam. One of the new season’s very first events opened last week – Berlin Fashion Week. Alongside the established fashion brands, the week played host to some impressive eco fashion initiatives. The Berlin Ethical Fashion Show provides a platform for sustainable brands to present their designs in a trade‐show environment, while Showfloor Berlin and the Green Showroom are opportunities for eco designers to send their collections down the catwalk. Often lauded as Germany’s greenest city, Berlin’s ethical awakening is not something of recent times. The brands who took part in Berlin’s ethical fashion events are sentiment to the city’s commitment to sustainable living. Combining fashion‐forward, fun designs with innovative, ethical production practices means that a sustainable future for fashion is possible; not only in Berlin, but on a worldwide scale.
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Here are some of our favourite ethical designers who showed last week as part of Berlin Fashion Week. Elsien Gringhuis
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Elsien Gringhuis A/W 2013 Favouring simple, clean‐cut design, Elsien Gringhuis’ eponymous luxury fashion label seeks to ‘maximise the minimum.’ Since showing her first collection in 2009 in Amsterdam, the multi award‐winning designer has continued to produce beautiful, high quality clothes. Elsien Gringhuis’ AW13 collection pairs minimalist, contemporary design with splashes of colour – elegant burgundy, pink ombre and cool sand all feature alongside a canvas of monochrome.
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Eco Age - Berlin Fashion Week For Elsien, producing long‐lasting, high quality clothes is the key to creating a sustainable brand. Using ethical materials such as organic wool and cotton, Elsien Gringhuis’ classic designs not only stay in style season after season, they also remain functional and wearable for years. Esther Perbandt
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Berlin‐born fashion designer Esther Perbandt founded her self‐titled label after studying to post‐graduate level in France. With a sometimes androgynous, sometimes feminine aesthetic, Esther Perbandt is a brand with wide reaching appeal. Esther’s attitude towards sustainability is admirable – her ‘two steps forward, one step back’ motto admits that the road ahead is a challenging one but insists that it is a path well worth pursuing. Helping Esther build a more sustainable future for her brand is ethical agency Beyond Berlin, which aims to make ethical production the norm within the fashion industry. Esther manages to stay true to her brand aesthetic, while adopting a thoroughly transparent approach. Caboclo
Caboclo shoes Barcelona‐based Caboclo began with a simply designed range of sandals made by Brazilian artisans. When demand for the sandals excelled their expectations, founder Juliano Lima and his team began distributing to outside partners. Soon, the business had spread far beyond their first store in Barcelona’s Gothic district – to other parts of Spain, France, Italy and Germany. Working over a period of two years in Ceara, north‐east of Brazil, Caboclo sought out communities in which artisans still used ancient techniques; as such, the production process remains natural. Traditional techniques paired with ethical innovation – soles are made from recycled rubber tyres – make Caboclo a brand that is committed to sustainable style. Their approach is characterised by their dedication to preserving ancient manufacturing processes and, consequently, improving the future prospects for talented artisans and their wider communities. Harold’s
Harold's Notebook bag, left and the Doctor's Bag, right Founded as a handicraft business in 1936, German accessories brand Harold’s produces most of their collection in South America. Their luxurious and functional leather bags are tailored to suit several styles and needs; their latest range, Chacoral Uni, comes in a choice of bright colours and the shopper style is ideal for many purposes. Using natural, vegetable dyes and ethical leather production techniques, Harold’s sustainable ethic is also steeped in their commitment to creating job security for South American workers. The company was formed on the condition that it would prioritise social security and combat the widespread migratory labour of the region. As a result, they have fostered a long‐lasting, secure working environment – some employees have been there for decades, a fact to which they attribute the high quality of the Harold’s product and the expertise of the handicraft. Nico Ney + Tibe Tan
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Nico Ney + Tibe Tan With a kooky vibe, up‐cycling collective Nico Ney + Tibe Tan project their message loud and clear in their ‘Up‐ cycling Manifesto.’ It’s all about making something new out of something old, taking responsibility for your fashion choices and working together to protect the environment. Formed by design duo Connyie Rethmann and Bettina Gritz, the brand breathes new life into worn out garments with every stitch, twist and snip. Their current favourite pieces to work with are old men’s shirts. L’Herbe Rouge
L'Herbe Rouge AW12 Casual daywear with an urban edge is French brand L’Herbe Rouge’s tour de force. Founded by Thibaud Decroo in 2008, the company combines the expertise of its team with a desire to do good by the environment and humanity. Strongly committed to sustainable fashion design, L’Herbe Rouge operates ethically in every area of their production process. From innovative, multi‐functional designs – reversible clothes, for example – to using GOTS certified materials and techniques, L’Herbe Rouge are encouragingly vocal about their approach to sustainability. Like fellow French ethical label Veja (who we've written about before) L’Herbe Rouge entrust their logistical operations to Atelier Sans Frontieres, an organisation which employs and rehabilitates marginalised members of society. This dedication to social equality forms part of the fabric of the brand’s ethical approach. Studio Jux
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Studio Jux A/W 12/13 When Jitske Lundgren visited India as part of her fashion studies, she was shocked to meet a man who, as he was charged with the task of dyeing clothes, spent every day covered in colour. Her experiences in the mainstream fashion industry disenchanted her further, so she set about establishing her own ethical fashion brand. Joining up with communications expert Carlien Helmink, who shares Jitske’s ethical values and love for fashion, Studio Jux was formed. Their AW12/13 collection won them the Green Fashion Competition – casual, contemporary designs, most of which are made in their factory in Kathmandu, Nepal, where Jitske resides. As well as using ethical materials such as hemp in their production, Studio Jux is passionate about creating an ethical and sustainable working environment in Kathmandu, and nurturing a connection between customer and tailor. To find out more about the brands who showed at Berlin Fashion Week, visit the website here.
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