tasteBUDS
L O C A L C H A T T A N O O G A F L A V O R
The Local Beef Difference S P R I NG
2014
C H AT TA N O O G A’S growchattanooga.org/tastebuds
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A DAY AT RIVERVIEW FARMS
Local
by Julia Swancy
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head out to clear the pigweed and grass that has engulfed the early season mustard greens and arugula in our raised beds. When my kids see me put on gloves, all three clamor for theirs; small fingers are sorted into their respective slots and gloves are properly tugged onto hands, little and big. I show Galen, 9, how to grasp the pigweed close to the soil to avoid thorns and ensure the entire root is pulled. He submerges his bare toes in the soil, relishing the relative coolness and texture for a moment, then launches into his own personal weed war, ripping out invaders. I am surprised to find some Hakurei turnips have managed to reach full size amid the thick grasses. I show them to Iris, 4, and she enthusiastically digs through the bed after more of these roots, gathering them into an armload as big as herself and toting them into the house to wash. Minutes later she comes back out to show me shiny white globes. “I washed these myself!” she exclaims. 10
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W With the beds cleared, my husband Brad takes over transplanting a tray of Cherokee Purple tomatoes, De Milpa tomatillos, and Machiaw eggplant. Finn, 2, yanks the transplants from the plug tray and dumps them unceremoniously into the bed as Brad scurries to guide his placement of the plants. The strong stems survive the Finn’s handling technique and Iris waters them in. Later, eggs need to be gathered from my mother-in-law’s henhouse. She takes Iris, Finn, and a collecting bucket to the nesting boxes and lifts the door. Iris stands on tiptoe to reach in blindly, feeling for eggs. Finn is not yet tall enough but tries just as hard. Only one egg is dropped in transport, a treat for the dogs. The rest are brought back inside and sorted into cartons.
Now nearly sunset, it’s time to make a bottle for calf 287. We usually end up with one motherless calf each birthing cycle, whether because it was a twin or its mother simply didn’t claim it. Iris and Finn love the bottle feeding and argue over who will carry the bottle and hold it for the calf. I mix the warm water and milk powder, insist that shoes must be worn in the field, and help negotiate taking turns with the carrying as we walk. The calf sucks down the two-quart bottle in no time, slobbering and sputtering in his haste. Finn pets him tentatively, and then it’s back to the shed to rinse out the bottle before heading in to cook those turnips. Tomorrow will bring tractor rides, planting, hoeing in the veggie patch, weeding in the flower beds, and more watering if it doesn’t rain. Always more to do on a farm! 3 growchattanooga.org/tastebuds
alking into The Farmer’s Daughter Restaurant is not much different than visiting a farm after a hectic week in the city: the clean, white interior, anchored by a wall of windows at the front, gives you space to pause and take a breath. “This is my take on the family business,” Ann Keener, owner of The Farmer’s Daughter, remarks to me with a half-smile.
The “family business” Ann refers to is Sequatchie Cove Farm, which is located about 35 minutes northwest of downtown Chattanooga. The Keeners, specifically Ann’s parents Bill and Miriam, bought land and moved out to Sequatchie when Ann was 10. As the farm grew, Ann took an interest in cooking. The farm produced ingredients that inspired and challenged her. “I learned to cook with what I happened to have on hand, whatever that may be,” Ann explains. “[Learning to cook that way] taught me to change recipes on the fly – to trust my own taste rather than something written down on paper.” Ann, along with her husband Mike Mayo, opened The Farmer’s Daughter in October of 2013. They envisioned a farm-to-table restaurant that integrated all she loved from the farm – an understanding of the seasons, an appreciation for craftsmanship, and a belief in community. “Local” was to be the foundation of Mike and Ann’s business; however, it is more than a trend for them. “Local” is the way life must be. growchattanooga.org/tastebuds
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Life by Hannah Shadrick
Mike and Ann live this idea, using ingredients from nearly 20 area farms and food artisans everyday at The Farmer’s Daughter. What’s more, Mike and Ann’s insistence on “local” goes beyond food. They furnished their business with the help of Chattanooga craftspeople such as blacksmith Eric Eugene Smith and potter Anderson Bailey (Check out the hostess stand and side item bowls to see their work!). This wholehearted commitment to supporting the local economy reflects Mike and Ann’s larger dream to make The Farmer’s Daughter a space where community can be built; a place where each person’s skills can be known and utilized. Ann notes:
“Growing up on a farm showed me that relying on your community is the only sustainable model” THE FARMER’S DAUGHTER IS OPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY FROM 7 AM – 2 PM. VISIT: FARMERSDAUGHTERCHATTANOOGA.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.
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