How to Build a Workshop or Storage Building BEFORE
by Using
Recycled Pallets. AFTER
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Plain and simple, I needed another storage shed, and had no desire to spend the big bucks for a pre-built, delivered unit to the site. Wanting to recycle something into this shed, I realized I had an unlimited supply of free wooden pallets from my place of employment. The pallets measure approx. 40” x 48”, and were the basic building blocks of my designs. I had an unused area that I prepared for the shed, and drew the 8’ x 12’ plans conforming to the space and size of the pallets. Overall, I saved almost $1000 in materials by using the pallets. I could have saved even more by scrounging for more used materials, but I need the finished space as soon as possible. I bought more materials from the local “big box” home improvement center that I wanted, because I didn’t have the time to scrounge. In hindsight, using the pallets was a good idea – the shed is strong and tight. But I consumed a LOT OF TIME straightening, squaring, and trimming the pallets. And for the most part, I used deck screws to fasten the pallets together to make the walls, and fastening the walls together. I don’t like nails for this type of construction, or when constructing decking either. I did use my pneumatic nail gun for the flooring and pallet repairs. And if for any reason I had to disassemble the shed, screws are easier to remove and do less damage to the wood. Now that it is done, my only regret is that I didn’t make it bigger. Note about the pallets: I had a source for rather consistently sized and built pallets - 48” wide and 40” high. I thought I could save on material costs by using pallets for the walls and floors. While I did accomplish that, I spent a lot of time trimming and straightening and performing minor repairs on the pallets. I chose pallets that had good wood, but some were skewed and had to be straightened and squared off. Some had cracked slats, and those had to be replaced. Most had to have the slat overhang trimmed off. Not difficult labor, but time consuming. So it pays to eyeball the pallets closely when choosing them for building purposes.
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I had this unused space approx. 10’ deep and running about 30’ long. I did have to remove some of the fence on the right side of the photo. I also had to fill in several low spots in the ground, and rake it level for the supporting concrete blocks.
I played around with different foundation setups until I found what I thought would work best, that is, giving the 4x4 posts and pallets the most support. Several of the blocks shown would later be turned to provide more stable support. 3
This setup, similar to a store bought shed I already had, looked like it would provide the most support. These are 16”x4”x8” concrete blocks. The rear wall of the shed would be about 24” from the fence, giving me just enough room to work.
On top of the blocks I placed the treated 4x4s. Used as a moisture barrier, I could have placed black poly on the ground before laying the blocks. I dealt with this a bit later. 4
The pallets were placed on top of the 4x4s, and fastened generously with 3” deck screws. The block on the right was turned 90° for better support.
Then I just continued adding pallets to get a finish size of 8’ x 12’. Note the orange string lines used for alignment and level. 5
The rear wall (to the left) is 88” high (one pallet on the bottom (48”x40”), and one pallet on top of that (40”x48”). The front wall is 2 pallets high (48”x40”). I had an exterior door from a mobile home to use, so the front wall height is just above the door height. This gave me an adequate roof slope for water drainage. I used 19/32” plywood for the flooring, and an old white tarp for a moisture barrier. I had to unfasten several pallets when I realized I forgot to put the moisture barrier in place. As this was a one man operation, I had some blue plastic rope to hold pallets in place and plumb while I fastened them.
Front wall detail. As you might have noticed, pallets have about a 3-1/2” space between the slats - perfect if you want to insulate the shed with batt insulation. 6
Extensive use of levels. Here is typical corner bracing, later used as a shelf. This really helps to stiffen up the walls. This is a 12” level…. You’ll need a 4 foot level also.
Door framing. The cutout in the door bottom is from an old doggie door. I later used it as inflow air for ventilation purposes. As this was a one piece door unit from an old mobile home, the entire unit sits right into the rough opening. I had taken the screen/storm door unit off for ease of installation. Window openings can be done the same way.
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Inside view from doorway. Had to start putting stuff in before the shed was complete. Exposed slats of the pallets make fastening shelving materials easy. Convenient to hang stuff from the slats, too.
Inside view from doorway. Laid 2x8s across ceiling to serve as joists. Used 26”x8’ fiberglass roof panels for roofing. Could also have used 3/4” plywood or OSB, and shingles for the roof. 8
95”
40”
47”
23”
143”
40”
40”
48”
This is the basic floor plan. Since the pallets were not exactly 48”x40”, I had to make adjustments to enable to use full sheets of exterior siding, which are generally 4’x8’. The siding sheets I used are 1/2” thick, so I just subtracted (cut) about an inch from one end of 2 pallets, making them each about 39”. So once the flooring was in place, the overall length was about 143”, and the overall width was about 95”. Make the same adjustment for the 4 pallets on the right. I say “about” because these measurements don’t have to be exact. The 3-1/2” exterior corner boards would cover any gaps on the corners. Adjust according to the dimensions of your exterior siding. Use screws to pull the pallets tight in the middle connection, and to fasten to the 4x4s underneath. Concrete blocks for foundation. (typical) 1”x3-1/2” vertical wood trim all 4 corners
Time consuming…. but I had more time than anything. You may find an easier, quicker method. You want a tight fit, but you’re not making living space. Small gaps can be filled with caulk or foam/batt insulation from the inside. Need it larger? Add more pallets in the same manner…. The same thing on the wall page. Also, you could make the roof out of pallets also. You would need 2x8s alongside each of the pallets for support, then add the decking. Finish with shingles. Easy to batt insulate, too. 9
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Typical wall construction - width is 143”. Rear height is 88”. Front wall height is 80”. Side wall heights will be 80”, then fill in with stick-built construction, or configure pallets. The blue rectangles represent typical 4x8 sheets of exterior siding. You should overlap the pallet joints, so cut the widths accordingly. Fasten with 1” deck screws. Caulk and paint. Your exterior siding may vary, depending on what materials you can scrounge, recycle, or purchase. Once the front wall is up and fastened, you can rough cut-in the door opening, or any window openings you want.
Inside view from doorway.
99% finished. Note the air vent at top left corner, there is also one in the same spot on opposite side. Still need a step, door vent, and screen/storm door combo installed.
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