CALZONE
CALZONE A Trapeze Net, Half-PI Shawl (or Scarf)
elen pass brandt, © 2015
As always – eternal thanks to my friends at Auburn Needleworks. So, I am sitting in my local Italian trattoria… and when you are on a knitting jag – well, everything looks like a pattern. I look down at my plate … HOLY CALZONE! I see a half PI shawl, with holes! You never know when inspiration will beat you over the head…..
Model: Rae O’Neil “Trapeze Net” is about doing larger knitted pieces in a “fishnet” type pattern without a series of complex tap-dances to get there. It is all about speed, flow, and creating a larger piece with holes to eliminate the added weight. “Trapeze Net” is a lot like a trapeze act: swinging back and forth, sending a rope over, and joining two together – thus the name. In its basic form, it creates a left (or right) leaning bias. (See “Trapeze Net” Scarf) I have also written a large left-bias shawl pattern, (see: “Clusterfiesta”) as well as a complex mixed cowl pattern of left-leaning, right-leaning and straight net (see “Ambivalence” ), all are free on Ravelry. Use any yarn you prefer, (my samples are made from Fingering Weight yarns: Malabrigo “Arroyo”in 227 Volcan, Superwash Merino, 335 yards, and Knit One, Crochet Too’s “Cozette”, in 611 Gray Sky, 250 yards Silk/cotton/nylon), but you will use needles 2-3 times larger than those indicated by the yarn, which also adds to size (with less yarn used.) Go to a size you can comfortably handle (depends on whether you knit tight or loose.) I used US size 9 , 24” – 36”, circular needles for these patterns. You will need at least 320 yards of yarn – but can go as large as you want. The Stitches: K = Knit. M1L = Make one stitch left (lift loop and knit method). YO = Yarn Over. K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together. Ktbl = Knit through the back loop. P = Purl
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The Pattern: Bib-Section: Cast on 3 (long-tail) stitches and Knit one row. K, YO, K, YO, K Knit Full row (5 stitches total) K2, YO, K, YO, K2 K2, P to last 2 stitches, K2 (7 stitches) K2, (YO, K) 3 times, YO, K2 (11 stitches) K2, P to last 2 stitches, K2 Knit one Row K2, P to last 2 stitches, K2 K2, (YO, K) to last stitch, K1 Knit one Row (19 stitches) K2, P 15 Stitches. K2 Knit one Row (19 stitches) K2, P 15 Stitches. K2 K2 (YO/K) until the last stitch, K1 (Increase Row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 ( 35 stitches) Knit one Row K2, P31, K2 Knit one Row K2, P31, K2 Knit 2 Rows (This is a “ridge” texture row) K2 (YO/K) until the last stitch, K1 (Increase Row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 (67 stitches) Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit 2 Rows K2 (YO/K) until the last stitch, K1 (Increase Row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 (you should have 131 stitches) Knit one Row K2, P until the last 2 stitches, K2
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Trapeze Net Sequence: (where the “holes” begin…) Knit: (A) K2 (YO/K2tog) to last stitch, K1 (B) K the K’s or P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (C) K1 (K2tog/YO) to last 2 stitches, K2 (D) K the K’s or P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (E) Knit one Row (F) Knit one Row Knit this Sequence 2 Times (total) Knit one Row (this “reverses” the Trapeze Net pattern) Knit: (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F)
K2 (YO/K2tog) to last stitch, K1 K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s K1 (K2tog/YO) to last 2 stitches, K2 K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s Knit one Row Knit one Row Knit this Sequence 2 Times (total)
Knit two rows (a “ridge” row) K2, (YO/K) until last 2 stitches, YO, K2 (increase row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 (should be 259 total stitches) Knit: (A) K2 (YO/K2tog) to last stitch, K1 (B) K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (C) K1 (K2tog/YO) to last 2 stitches, K2 (D) K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (E) Knit one Row (F) Knit one Row Knit this A to F Sequence 3-7 more Times (for a total of 4-8) (depending on how much you can take and how much yarn you have) End on a “D” row, with enough yarn for 2-3 rows left. Picot Bind Off: Bind off can be something simple and stretchy or……… PICOT Bind Off: Bind off 1 stitch (leave it on the left-hand needle). Using the next stitch on the left-hand needle, cast on 2 more stitches. Bind off 10 stitches, (the samples were done using a “transfer the lefthand stitch back to the right hand needle and then knit the two stitches together through the back-side of the stitches” method), repeat this sequence until the end, then create a 2 stitch bump
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at the last stitch. Weave in the end yarn. Even with all this, I use a size 11 needle to bind off to avoid tightness.
Model: Rae O’Neil (many thanks, doll-face!)
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elen pass brandt, © 2015
As always – eternal thanks to my friends at Auburn Needleworks. So, I am sitting in my local Italian trattoria… and when you are on a knitting jag – well, everything looks like a pattern. I look down at my plate … HOLY CALZONE! I see a half PI shawl, with holes! You never know when inspiration will beat you over the head…..
Model: Rae O’Neil “Trapeze Net” is about doing larger knitted pieces in a “fishnet” type pattern without a series of complex tap-dances to get there. It is all about speed, flow, and creating a larger piece with holes to eliminate the added weight. “Trapeze Net” is a lot like a trapeze act: swinging back and forth, sending a rope over, and joining two together – thus the name. In its basic form, it creates a left (or right) leaning bias. (See “Trapeze Net” Scarf) I have also written a large left-bias shawl pattern, (see: “Clusterfiesta”) as well as a complex mixed cowl pattern of left-leaning, right-leaning and straight net (see “Ambivalence” ), all are free on Ravelry. Use any yarn you prefer, (my samples are made from Fingering Weight yarns: Malabrigo “Arroyo”in 227 Volcan, Superwash Merino, 335 yards, and Knit One, Crochet Too’s “Cozette”, in 611 Gray Sky, 250 yards Silk/cotton/nylon), but you will use needles 2-3 times larger than those indicated by the yarn, which also adds to size (with less yarn used.) Go to a size you can comfortably handle (depends on whether you knit tight or loose.) I used US size 9 , 24” – 36”, circular needles for these patterns. You will need at least 320 yards of yarn – but can go as large as you want. The Stitches: K = Knit. M1L = Make one stitch left (lift loop and knit method). YO = Yarn Over. K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together. Ktbl = Knit through the back loop. P = Purl
1
The Pattern: Bib-Section: Cast on 3 (long-tail) stitches and Knit one row. K, YO, K, YO, K Knit Full row (5 stitches total) K2, YO, K, YO, K2 K2, P to last 2 stitches, K2 (7 stitches) K2, (YO, K) 3 times, YO, K2 (11 stitches) K2, P to last 2 stitches, K2 Knit one Row K2, P to last 2 stitches, K2 K2, (YO, K) to last stitch, K1 Knit one Row (19 stitches) K2, P 15 Stitches. K2 Knit one Row (19 stitches) K2, P 15 Stitches. K2 K2 (YO/K) until the last stitch, K1 (Increase Row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 ( 35 stitches) Knit one Row K2, P31, K2 Knit one Row K2, P31, K2 Knit 2 Rows (This is a “ridge” texture row) K2 (YO/K) until the last stitch, K1 (Increase Row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 (67 stitches) Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit One Row K2. P62, K2 Knit 2 Rows K2 (YO/K) until the last stitch, K1 (Increase Row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 (you should have 131 stitches) Knit one Row K2, P until the last 2 stitches, K2
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Trapeze Net Sequence: (where the “holes” begin…) Knit: (A) K2 (YO/K2tog) to last stitch, K1 (B) K the K’s or P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (C) K1 (K2tog/YO) to last 2 stitches, K2 (D) K the K’s or P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (E) Knit one Row (F) Knit one Row Knit this Sequence 2 Times (total) Knit one Row (this “reverses” the Trapeze Net pattern) Knit: (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F)
K2 (YO/K2tog) to last stitch, K1 K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s K1 (K2tog/YO) to last 2 stitches, K2 K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s Knit one Row Knit one Row Knit this Sequence 2 Times (total)
Knit two rows (a “ridge” row) K2, (YO/K) until last 2 stitches, YO, K2 (increase row) K2, P until last 2 stitches, K2 (should be 259 total stitches) Knit: (A) K2 (YO/K2tog) to last stitch, K1 (B) K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (C) K1 (K2tog/YO) to last 2 stitches, K2 (D) K the K’s and P’s, Ktbl the YO’s (E) Knit one Row (F) Knit one Row Knit this A to F Sequence 3-7 more Times (for a total of 4-8) (depending on how much you can take and how much yarn you have) End on a “D” row, with enough yarn for 2-3 rows left. Picot Bind Off: Bind off can be something simple and stretchy or……… PICOT Bind Off: Bind off 1 stitch (leave it on the left-hand needle). Using the next stitch on the left-hand needle, cast on 2 more stitches. Bind off 10 stitches, (the samples were done using a “transfer the lefthand stitch back to the right hand needle and then knit the two stitches together through the back-side of the stitches” method), repeat this sequence until the end, then create a 2 stitch bump
3
at the last stitch. Weave in the end yarn. Even with all this, I use a size 11 needle to bind off to avoid tightness.
Model: Rae O’Neil (many thanks, doll-face!)
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