CJP 526 Wrap Dress SewAlong Extras
*Check the box below to ensure that the pattern size was not altered during printing. The box should measure 1” square.
WRAP DRESS #526 – COLLAR
1 in x 1 in
COLLAR
CUT 1
*CENTER BACK – PLACE ON FOLD OF FABRIC
*Check the box below to ensure that the pattern size was not altered during printing. The box should measure 1” square.
WRAP DRESS #526 – SLEEVE BAND
SLEEVE BAND
CUT 2
1 in x 1 in
Cutting and Shaping By Christine Jonson
Most of the time cutting out your patterns does not have to be an exact science especially when using my patterns and stretch knit fabrics. There is a lot of room for subtle shaping that will not affect the actual “fit” of the garment, but there are those times when it is very important. Imagine that someone else was going to be sewing the garment (without the pattern pieces as reference) that you cut out and they were depending on your accuracy. If you think about it that way you will realize that cutting perfect side seams is not as important as cutting a perfect and easy to recognize lapel corner. Once you have made your pattern alterations (if any) and you are ready to lay your pattern down, think about chalking around your pattern instead of pinning it down. Chalking around the pattern pieces instead of pinning them will make you aware of the shapes that you are working with before you cut into them. Just the motion of your hand following the tissue curves with the chalk is the first step toward visualizing your garment. Next is to remove the tissue and look at the chalked lines. First look at the whole piece then look individually at the details. Does the shape of the neckline look deep enough, round enough, wide enough or should you re-chalk the lines to get the neckline that you see in your mind’s eye. Does the armhole look too deep for the drape of the fabric that you have chosen? Now is the time to re-chalk the armhole and sleeve. The changes don’t need to be drastic to make a positive difference in your garment. The next option is to make changes as you are cutting. Using long scissors (10” or longer) make smooth, long cuts either on the chalk line, inside or outside the chalk line to subtly change the shape. Gradually changing the shape of a straight skirt by tapering from the hip to hem is as simple as visualizing the skirt on your body and letting the
scissors follow your vision. It sounds harder than it is. Learning to visualize the flat fabric as it relates to your body and knowing when a hip curve, neckline or bust shaping “looks” perfect. Learning to be less dependent on the tissue will make fitting your patterns easier. Sometimes even after I have chalked my new cutting lines I find myself making changes as I am cutting. I continue these changes even as I am serging the seams. If I get scared that I have shaped a seam too much I will ease off on my seam allowance on the serger. After checking the ease in the pattern size that you are using and considering the ease in your fabric, these factors will determine how much play you have in your cutting. Imagine that you are making the BaseWear Two Tee with the jewel neckline in rayon/LYCRA and while you are chalking around it you think, almost in the back of your mind, that the softness of the fabric will make the neckline fall lower than you would like. By having the chalk in your hand instead of your scissors and giving yourself the feeling of going around that neckline once with the chalk you have given yourself the opportunity to think about what your are committing yourself to. Many fitting and design opportunities are lost while scissors are in your hand. Sometimes looking at the tissue is not enough to trigger your creativity and you should give yourself the opportunity to make changes even though it may seem like extra work to chalk around the pattern pieces.
Sewing with Stretch Knits by Christine Jonson
Knit fabrics feel good. Most people who enjoy sewing love to touch fabrics. We all know it would be impossible to walk through a fabric store with our hands in our pockets. The knit fabrics available today are wonderful to work with and even better to wear. With the addition of Lycra to these fabrics they now offer excellent stretch and recovery that you can count on for a great fit. Long gone are the days of knit fabrics that stretch out of shape. Knit garments give us freedom of movement, comfort and shaping that woven fabrics simply can't offer. For the home sewer sewing with knits often suggest certain obstacles, however, these obstacles can be easily overcome with a little preparation. Knit fabrics do require specific handling techniques to make your sewing successful. Applying these techniques will make sewing with knits fun, fast and easy. In no time at all you will be able to sew at home ready-to-wear garments that cost a quarter of store bought clothes and achieve a perfect fit.
Choosing Fabric The success of your finished garment depends on good decision making every step of the way. A wide variety of knit fabrics are available today, so it is important to narrow your choices based first on the design of the garment. Some choices are obvious, while others can be tricky. For example, when making a fitted jacket, the fabric needs to have enough body to maintain the interesting shape of the asymmetrical side seam, yet plenty of drape to accent it. A fabric with a little extra warmth and a design that covers the hips would be perfect for fall.
The Right Pattern Size for Desired Ease Before automatically cutting the pattern based on the body measurements shown the pattern envelope back; take time to evaluate the choices you have made to this point. Successful pairing of fabric and pattern size depends on the knit fabric
you have chosen. A heavier, thicker, less stretchy knit fabric needs more inches of ease in the pattern tissue, whereas a thinner, lighter weight, very stretchy fabric requires less ease in the pattern tissue measurements. The needed wearing ease can only be determined after the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements have been calculated. Think about how much wearing ease you want depending on the fabric you have chosen. If I were using a thick knit fabric, with a lot of body and not very stretchy for a jacket, I would choose the size based on 4-6" of extra ease through the bust. If I were using a lightweight, stretchy, knitted jersey fabric and planned on making a shirt I would have chosen a size with 2-3" of wearing ease. So remember, body measurements minus finished garment measurements, plus enough wearing ease in addition to fabric characteristics will help determine your perfect size.
Sewing A Quick Sample Keep a variety of remnant table, inexpensive knit and woven fabrics in your sewing room readily available to sew up quick samples before cutting into your fashion fabric. Sew the sample using a fabric that has qualities close to the fabric you will be using for your final garment. This is the time to double-check your ease and sizing decisions. It can be as simple as cutting out the front and back of a top to check the fit or cutting a pair of pants knee length to check the waist, rise and crotch curve.
Thread, Needles, Stitches Many knits can be sewn exclusively with a serger, while others need to be sewn with a single needle machine stitch and the serger. The stability and thickness of the fabric determine the type of stitch needed. If the fabric is unstable, meaning it has Continued…
inconsistencies and is loosely knitted, it is best to edge serge the raw edges first, then single needle stitch the seam together and press open. A thick fabric with a narrow, serged seam allowance can be too "fat" and not press well. It is best to single needle stitch this type of seam. Then either press the seam open or serge the seam allowances together, leaving a wider seam that will press to one side.
Pressing and Pinning
Stretch woven fabrics with a twill weave often need the stability of a single needle stitch to prevent the seam from shredding apart.
While at the ironing board press and pin knit fabric facings and hems in place before stitching to assure perfect placement. Controlling the stretch of the fabric this way will make sure the knit maintains its straight grainline. Never attempt to pin a hem or facing with the garment on your lap. Do not let the garment hang from the board while pressing, dangle from the cutting table or the sewing machines. Fusible stabilizers such as Stitch Witchery are excellent alternatives to pins when preparing knit garment hems for topstitching.
Interfacing and Stabilizing Seams
Topstitching or Hand Hemming
When you are thinking about using interfacing on a knit fabric your first question should be "Is there anything I can change about the garment design or construction to eliminate the need for interfacing?" The beauty of knit fabric is in its stretch and recovery, preventing it can cause problems elsewhere on the garment. Interfacing separate pattern pieces such as front facings, back neck facings; pockets, cuffs and collars are fine. I suggest a tricot interfacing for support.
Topstitching is a fast and decorative way to finish knit garment hems. Double needle topstitching is especially important for hems that require stretch and recover such as jewel necklines, narrow pant hems and tapered skirt hems. Any hem that needs to stretch and recover without breaking needs a topstitch that can do the same. Single needle topstitching is great for full skirt hems, to sew facings down and to hem or finish any non-stress hem. Consider using a rotary cutter for knit fabrics that do not ravel. This cut edge is an especially simple and useful finish for ruffles and circle hems. When a topstitch interferes with the fabric design or the design of the garment, it is best to hand stitch the facings and hems in place.
Cut the interfacing on the straight grain line to prevent the fabric from stretching. Interfacing on these pattern pieces will not have an effect on the stretch and recovery of the garment itself. Interfacing pressed on the knit garment itself will eventually stretch off and bubble. Never use it to support a neckline, a fold over facing or on any area of a garment that is expected to stretch and recover. Even interfacings that are made for super stretch fabrics, such as bias interfacings, will eventually pull away and bubble from the fabric, leaving an area that cannot be pressed back together. Instead of attempting to stop a neckline from stretching by using interfacing to control it, try cutting it smaller so that when it does stretch it is the perfect size! Stabilize shoulder seams and seams that cross the bias using fusible seam tape, either straight or bias, a strip of fusible interfacing or for seams that need some stretch and recovery use clear, thin elastic.
Closures Buttonholes on stretch knits can be tricky. Buttonholes tend to stretch out of shape no matter what type of stabilizer is used. The best way to make beautiful buttonholes on stretch fabric is to cord them. Check your sewing machine instruction book for specific details on corded buttonholes. I like the couture look of no buttonholes, and sewing silk covered snaps behind the button, as I used for the sample garment shown here. Choosing beautiful buttons and decorative closures will be the perfect, personal touch for your garment.
Sewing With Stretch Knit Fabrics by Christine Jonson
Spandex meets fabric It is not uncommon to find the spandex fiber interwoven or knitted into cotton, linen, and rayon, wool, silk, nylon etc. and any combination thereof. Think of these fabrics as “host” fabrics to the spandex. Spandex is a friendly fiber: it is never used alone. To say you are wearing a spandex skirt would actually be saying that you could bounce like a rubber ball! Spandex cannot standalone; it needs to hitch a ride. Once the spandex fiber has been introduced to its host, neither will ever be the same. Together they will hug and squeeze and keep coming back for more.
Stretch The higher the percentage of spandex, the more a fabric will stretch. Simply stated, the same cotton knit fabric with 10% spandex will stretch more than with 5% spandex. However, two different fabrics that have the same percentage of spandex may not stretch the same. Each fabric will have its own personality. Spandex is added to other fibers three different ways. It can be covered or wrapped by another fiber, plied or layered together, and core-spun or completely encased. Sometimes you can see and pick-out the spandex fiber and other times you can’t find it! Depending on the type of stretch a manufacturer wants, one of these three ways of adding the spandex fiber is chosen. Spandex fabrics can have one-way stretch, meaning the fabric has maximum stretch width-wise and very limited stretch lengthwise,
two-way stretch has maximum stretch lengthwise and minimum stretch width wise stretch. Four-way stretch usually offers equal stretch in all directions. Each fabric will have its’ own personality and needs to be treated as such.
Recovery The ability of the spandex fiber to return to its original starting size time after time, stretch after stretch, is its most impressive quality. Depending on the percentage of spandex and how it was added to the fabric determines how “soft” or “snappy” the fabric will recover. A garment made with a “very snappy” recovery fabric will fit tighter than one made with a “soft” recovery fabric.
Fabric types The spandex fiber can be found all over town. Look for it at the yoga studio wrapped with cotton, the RTW rack where it may be plied with Italian wool knit, to the sleepwear section at your favorite department store core-spun with nylon. It’s everywhere.
Stitches Any seam or hem that will be stretched needs to be sewn with some kind of stretch stitch, otherwise when the seam is stretched the stitches will break. For construction this can be as simple as a zig-zag stitch or as sophisticated as a 5-thread serger stitch.
Continued…
When sewing with a zig-zag stitch or any stretch stitch from a single needle sewing machine, use a ¼” seam allowance so there is no fabric left to “finish” or trim away. Never let extra seam allowance inside your garment compromise the look of a seam on the outside. Better to leave a raw edge than to attempt to “finish” it, especially on stretch fabrics. Use either a zig-zag stitch for hems, or a double needle for topstitch. When using a double-needle loosen the bobbin tension to allow enough bobbin thread to accommodate the two rows of topstitching on the right side. The right side of the stitch should look like railroad tracks (flat in-between) and the underside like a zig-zag stitch. This topstitch has excellent stretch and recovery. A 4-thread serger is an excellent sewing equipment investment. It will sew a seam together, give stretch and recovery to a seam, trim off excess seam allowance and encase the raw edges of the fabric, all in one step. Neat and clean. They sew fast and work great on all types of fabric. You may find that you use your single needle sewing machine more for sewing hems than actual garment construction.
Needles Knit fabrics require “ballpoint” needles. These needles push their way in-between the fibers in contrast to “sharp” needless that pierce the fibers. Using a “sharp” needle on knits will make a hole and may even cause a run in the fabric. Beyond that, the weight of the fabric determines the appropriate size needle to
choose, the heavier or denser a fabric the higher number needle. Most mid-weight knits sew very well with a number 11 or 14 ballpoint needle. Sizing and Fit When sewing with spandex fabrics it is important to choose a sewing pattern size based on the stretch and recovery of your fabric, in addition to your body measurements and finished garment measurements. If your fabric is really stretchy with soft recovery, you will need less ease in your pattern because the fabric adds extra ease, hence use a smaller pattern size. Conversely, if your fabric is not so stretchy, and has very snappy recovery, you will need a larger pattern size to give you the wearing ease required. So, if your pattern doesn’t have enough ease, the fabric has to, and if your fabric doesn’t have it, the pattern size has to.
Negative ease Spandex makes it possible to wear clothes that measure smaller than our body measurements. This is called negative ease. How else could we wear a skirt with no elastic, waistband or zipper and keep it on? If the spandex fabric stretches enough to pull up over the hips, and snap back small enough to hug the waist that is negative ease! Parts of a garment can offer negative ease or the entire garment.
Invented in 1959, the synthetic, elastic fiber spandex is also known as elastane, Lycra, and Dorlastan
The Measuring Tape By Christine Jonson
I have a love/hate relationship with my tape measure. I am a visual person and when I actually have to measure something I do it begrudgingly. From the beginning I have fought the notion that I need to know exact measurements. When learning proper pattern making in school I was always eyeing my lines with my ruler while others were busily measuring. Granted there are times when exact measurements are necessary but I avoid those times! Yet, another reason I love LYCRA so much.
After training your eye to understand your shape you will be able to lay out a piece of fabric without a pattern and chalk out a top or skirt. How fun would that be?! Knowing which type of sleeve cap fits into what style armhole, or knowing right off the bat that a sleeve would be too narrow across your upper arm. These are not things only professional seamstresses can understand. If you are doing any sewing for yourself you can trust that your garments will improve if you put down that tape measure.
The problem with measuring The reason I like to chalk my Start with a little test. is that it becomes a crutch. pattern pieces is so I can Guess what your measurements are: You stop trusting what you make alterations easily see and depend on the tape, Bust: ______ Pant Side Seam: ______ without changing my right or wrong. In one pattern. I prefer to make Waist: ______ Back waist: ______ sewing class I took away note of what I did to refer to Hips: ______ Shoulder: ______ next time because I may be everyone’s tape measures Sleeve Length: ______ Crotch: ______ using a different fabric that and saw terror in their eyes! I Inseam: ______ Upper Arm: ______ would require other changes. actually had to fight to get a few of the girls to give them Working with the chalk to up! After cutting out and pressing the pattern pieces add a little here or take away a little there or to we laid them out on the fabric and used our eyes to lengthen a curve or drop an armhole continues that measure from selvedge to grain line. After they were all important hand to eye coordination. As you use your laid out we checked them with our tapes. I wasn’t hands to change shapes on the pattern with your chalk surprised but most of the gals were, for the most part you are unconsciously thinking of your bodies shape they had all laid them straight. This is the first step to and the kind of look and fit you see in your mind’s eye. visualizing. The next step was to take away the pins. It continues when you are cutting the pattern out Again, those faces! I gave everyone a new piece of following the lines. Use long smooth scissors strokes to white school chalk and they were asked to chalk around continue that visual flow. Sometimes even at the point the pattern pieces. Afterwards I took away the tissue of cutting you instinctively cut at the outside of your and we looked at the chalked chalk line knowing you may need shapes. Then we looked in the a bit more room. mirror at our bodies. Did the Whether you are sewing or pattern pieces “look” right? Did serging your project you continue the shaping look like it was in the to visualize and sew quickly and right place for our curves? smoothly thinking of what area of Simply, did the length look right? your shape you are sewing The width of the sleeve hem? together and making small These are question usually left adjustments instinctively being up to your tape measure. When independent of that 5/8” seam you use your eyes for answers allowance. before using your tape measure From the time you choose your you will see that what the tape says is only a guide to pattern until you finish the hems you should visualize what your eye already knows. the finished garment on your body.
WRAP DRESS #526 – COLLAR
1 in x 1 in
COLLAR
CUT 1
*CENTER BACK – PLACE ON FOLD OF FABRIC
*Check the box below to ensure that the pattern size was not altered during printing. The box should measure 1” square.
WRAP DRESS #526 – SLEEVE BAND
SLEEVE BAND
CUT 2
1 in x 1 in
Cutting and Shaping By Christine Jonson
Most of the time cutting out your patterns does not have to be an exact science especially when using my patterns and stretch knit fabrics. There is a lot of room for subtle shaping that will not affect the actual “fit” of the garment, but there are those times when it is very important. Imagine that someone else was going to be sewing the garment (without the pattern pieces as reference) that you cut out and they were depending on your accuracy. If you think about it that way you will realize that cutting perfect side seams is not as important as cutting a perfect and easy to recognize lapel corner. Once you have made your pattern alterations (if any) and you are ready to lay your pattern down, think about chalking around your pattern instead of pinning it down. Chalking around the pattern pieces instead of pinning them will make you aware of the shapes that you are working with before you cut into them. Just the motion of your hand following the tissue curves with the chalk is the first step toward visualizing your garment. Next is to remove the tissue and look at the chalked lines. First look at the whole piece then look individually at the details. Does the shape of the neckline look deep enough, round enough, wide enough or should you re-chalk the lines to get the neckline that you see in your mind’s eye. Does the armhole look too deep for the drape of the fabric that you have chosen? Now is the time to re-chalk the armhole and sleeve. The changes don’t need to be drastic to make a positive difference in your garment. The next option is to make changes as you are cutting. Using long scissors (10” or longer) make smooth, long cuts either on the chalk line, inside or outside the chalk line to subtly change the shape. Gradually changing the shape of a straight skirt by tapering from the hip to hem is as simple as visualizing the skirt on your body and letting the
scissors follow your vision. It sounds harder than it is. Learning to visualize the flat fabric as it relates to your body and knowing when a hip curve, neckline or bust shaping “looks” perfect. Learning to be less dependent on the tissue will make fitting your patterns easier. Sometimes even after I have chalked my new cutting lines I find myself making changes as I am cutting. I continue these changes even as I am serging the seams. If I get scared that I have shaped a seam too much I will ease off on my seam allowance on the serger. After checking the ease in the pattern size that you are using and considering the ease in your fabric, these factors will determine how much play you have in your cutting. Imagine that you are making the BaseWear Two Tee with the jewel neckline in rayon/LYCRA and while you are chalking around it you think, almost in the back of your mind, that the softness of the fabric will make the neckline fall lower than you would like. By having the chalk in your hand instead of your scissors and giving yourself the feeling of going around that neckline once with the chalk you have given yourself the opportunity to think about what your are committing yourself to. Many fitting and design opportunities are lost while scissors are in your hand. Sometimes looking at the tissue is not enough to trigger your creativity and you should give yourself the opportunity to make changes even though it may seem like extra work to chalk around the pattern pieces.
Sewing with Stretch Knits by Christine Jonson
Knit fabrics feel good. Most people who enjoy sewing love to touch fabrics. We all know it would be impossible to walk through a fabric store with our hands in our pockets. The knit fabrics available today are wonderful to work with and even better to wear. With the addition of Lycra to these fabrics they now offer excellent stretch and recovery that you can count on for a great fit. Long gone are the days of knit fabrics that stretch out of shape. Knit garments give us freedom of movement, comfort and shaping that woven fabrics simply can't offer. For the home sewer sewing with knits often suggest certain obstacles, however, these obstacles can be easily overcome with a little preparation. Knit fabrics do require specific handling techniques to make your sewing successful. Applying these techniques will make sewing with knits fun, fast and easy. In no time at all you will be able to sew at home ready-to-wear garments that cost a quarter of store bought clothes and achieve a perfect fit.
Choosing Fabric The success of your finished garment depends on good decision making every step of the way. A wide variety of knit fabrics are available today, so it is important to narrow your choices based first on the design of the garment. Some choices are obvious, while others can be tricky. For example, when making a fitted jacket, the fabric needs to have enough body to maintain the interesting shape of the asymmetrical side seam, yet plenty of drape to accent it. A fabric with a little extra warmth and a design that covers the hips would be perfect for fall.
The Right Pattern Size for Desired Ease Before automatically cutting the pattern based on the body measurements shown the pattern envelope back; take time to evaluate the choices you have made to this point. Successful pairing of fabric and pattern size depends on the knit fabric
you have chosen. A heavier, thicker, less stretchy knit fabric needs more inches of ease in the pattern tissue, whereas a thinner, lighter weight, very stretchy fabric requires less ease in the pattern tissue measurements. The needed wearing ease can only be determined after the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements have been calculated. Think about how much wearing ease you want depending on the fabric you have chosen. If I were using a thick knit fabric, with a lot of body and not very stretchy for a jacket, I would choose the size based on 4-6" of extra ease through the bust. If I were using a lightweight, stretchy, knitted jersey fabric and planned on making a shirt I would have chosen a size with 2-3" of wearing ease. So remember, body measurements minus finished garment measurements, plus enough wearing ease in addition to fabric characteristics will help determine your perfect size.
Sewing A Quick Sample Keep a variety of remnant table, inexpensive knit and woven fabrics in your sewing room readily available to sew up quick samples before cutting into your fashion fabric. Sew the sample using a fabric that has qualities close to the fabric you will be using for your final garment. This is the time to double-check your ease and sizing decisions. It can be as simple as cutting out the front and back of a top to check the fit or cutting a pair of pants knee length to check the waist, rise and crotch curve.
Thread, Needles, Stitches Many knits can be sewn exclusively with a serger, while others need to be sewn with a single needle machine stitch and the serger. The stability and thickness of the fabric determine the type of stitch needed. If the fabric is unstable, meaning it has Continued…
inconsistencies and is loosely knitted, it is best to edge serge the raw edges first, then single needle stitch the seam together and press open. A thick fabric with a narrow, serged seam allowance can be too "fat" and not press well. It is best to single needle stitch this type of seam. Then either press the seam open or serge the seam allowances together, leaving a wider seam that will press to one side.
Pressing and Pinning
Stretch woven fabrics with a twill weave often need the stability of a single needle stitch to prevent the seam from shredding apart.
While at the ironing board press and pin knit fabric facings and hems in place before stitching to assure perfect placement. Controlling the stretch of the fabric this way will make sure the knit maintains its straight grainline. Never attempt to pin a hem or facing with the garment on your lap. Do not let the garment hang from the board while pressing, dangle from the cutting table or the sewing machines. Fusible stabilizers such as Stitch Witchery are excellent alternatives to pins when preparing knit garment hems for topstitching.
Interfacing and Stabilizing Seams
Topstitching or Hand Hemming
When you are thinking about using interfacing on a knit fabric your first question should be "Is there anything I can change about the garment design or construction to eliminate the need for interfacing?" The beauty of knit fabric is in its stretch and recovery, preventing it can cause problems elsewhere on the garment. Interfacing separate pattern pieces such as front facings, back neck facings; pockets, cuffs and collars are fine. I suggest a tricot interfacing for support.
Topstitching is a fast and decorative way to finish knit garment hems. Double needle topstitching is especially important for hems that require stretch and recover such as jewel necklines, narrow pant hems and tapered skirt hems. Any hem that needs to stretch and recover without breaking needs a topstitch that can do the same. Single needle topstitching is great for full skirt hems, to sew facings down and to hem or finish any non-stress hem. Consider using a rotary cutter for knit fabrics that do not ravel. This cut edge is an especially simple and useful finish for ruffles and circle hems. When a topstitch interferes with the fabric design or the design of the garment, it is best to hand stitch the facings and hems in place.
Cut the interfacing on the straight grain line to prevent the fabric from stretching. Interfacing on these pattern pieces will not have an effect on the stretch and recovery of the garment itself. Interfacing pressed on the knit garment itself will eventually stretch off and bubble. Never use it to support a neckline, a fold over facing or on any area of a garment that is expected to stretch and recover. Even interfacings that are made for super stretch fabrics, such as bias interfacings, will eventually pull away and bubble from the fabric, leaving an area that cannot be pressed back together. Instead of attempting to stop a neckline from stretching by using interfacing to control it, try cutting it smaller so that when it does stretch it is the perfect size! Stabilize shoulder seams and seams that cross the bias using fusible seam tape, either straight or bias, a strip of fusible interfacing or for seams that need some stretch and recovery use clear, thin elastic.
Closures Buttonholes on stretch knits can be tricky. Buttonholes tend to stretch out of shape no matter what type of stabilizer is used. The best way to make beautiful buttonholes on stretch fabric is to cord them. Check your sewing machine instruction book for specific details on corded buttonholes. I like the couture look of no buttonholes, and sewing silk covered snaps behind the button, as I used for the sample garment shown here. Choosing beautiful buttons and decorative closures will be the perfect, personal touch for your garment.
Sewing With Stretch Knit Fabrics by Christine Jonson
Spandex meets fabric It is not uncommon to find the spandex fiber interwoven or knitted into cotton, linen, and rayon, wool, silk, nylon etc. and any combination thereof. Think of these fabrics as “host” fabrics to the spandex. Spandex is a friendly fiber: it is never used alone. To say you are wearing a spandex skirt would actually be saying that you could bounce like a rubber ball! Spandex cannot standalone; it needs to hitch a ride. Once the spandex fiber has been introduced to its host, neither will ever be the same. Together they will hug and squeeze and keep coming back for more.
Stretch The higher the percentage of spandex, the more a fabric will stretch. Simply stated, the same cotton knit fabric with 10% spandex will stretch more than with 5% spandex. However, two different fabrics that have the same percentage of spandex may not stretch the same. Each fabric will have its own personality. Spandex is added to other fibers three different ways. It can be covered or wrapped by another fiber, plied or layered together, and core-spun or completely encased. Sometimes you can see and pick-out the spandex fiber and other times you can’t find it! Depending on the type of stretch a manufacturer wants, one of these three ways of adding the spandex fiber is chosen. Spandex fabrics can have one-way stretch, meaning the fabric has maximum stretch width-wise and very limited stretch lengthwise,
two-way stretch has maximum stretch lengthwise and minimum stretch width wise stretch. Four-way stretch usually offers equal stretch in all directions. Each fabric will have its’ own personality and needs to be treated as such.
Recovery The ability of the spandex fiber to return to its original starting size time after time, stretch after stretch, is its most impressive quality. Depending on the percentage of spandex and how it was added to the fabric determines how “soft” or “snappy” the fabric will recover. A garment made with a “very snappy” recovery fabric will fit tighter than one made with a “soft” recovery fabric.
Fabric types The spandex fiber can be found all over town. Look for it at the yoga studio wrapped with cotton, the RTW rack where it may be plied with Italian wool knit, to the sleepwear section at your favorite department store core-spun with nylon. It’s everywhere.
Stitches Any seam or hem that will be stretched needs to be sewn with some kind of stretch stitch, otherwise when the seam is stretched the stitches will break. For construction this can be as simple as a zig-zag stitch or as sophisticated as a 5-thread serger stitch.
Continued…
When sewing with a zig-zag stitch or any stretch stitch from a single needle sewing machine, use a ¼” seam allowance so there is no fabric left to “finish” or trim away. Never let extra seam allowance inside your garment compromise the look of a seam on the outside. Better to leave a raw edge than to attempt to “finish” it, especially on stretch fabrics. Use either a zig-zag stitch for hems, or a double needle for topstitch. When using a double-needle loosen the bobbin tension to allow enough bobbin thread to accommodate the two rows of topstitching on the right side. The right side of the stitch should look like railroad tracks (flat in-between) and the underside like a zig-zag stitch. This topstitch has excellent stretch and recovery. A 4-thread serger is an excellent sewing equipment investment. It will sew a seam together, give stretch and recovery to a seam, trim off excess seam allowance and encase the raw edges of the fabric, all in one step. Neat and clean. They sew fast and work great on all types of fabric. You may find that you use your single needle sewing machine more for sewing hems than actual garment construction.
Needles Knit fabrics require “ballpoint” needles. These needles push their way in-between the fibers in contrast to “sharp” needless that pierce the fibers. Using a “sharp” needle on knits will make a hole and may even cause a run in the fabric. Beyond that, the weight of the fabric determines the appropriate size needle to
choose, the heavier or denser a fabric the higher number needle. Most mid-weight knits sew very well with a number 11 or 14 ballpoint needle. Sizing and Fit When sewing with spandex fabrics it is important to choose a sewing pattern size based on the stretch and recovery of your fabric, in addition to your body measurements and finished garment measurements. If your fabric is really stretchy with soft recovery, you will need less ease in your pattern because the fabric adds extra ease, hence use a smaller pattern size. Conversely, if your fabric is not so stretchy, and has very snappy recovery, you will need a larger pattern size to give you the wearing ease required. So, if your pattern doesn’t have enough ease, the fabric has to, and if your fabric doesn’t have it, the pattern size has to.
Negative ease Spandex makes it possible to wear clothes that measure smaller than our body measurements. This is called negative ease. How else could we wear a skirt with no elastic, waistband or zipper and keep it on? If the spandex fabric stretches enough to pull up over the hips, and snap back small enough to hug the waist that is negative ease! Parts of a garment can offer negative ease or the entire garment.
Invented in 1959, the synthetic, elastic fiber spandex is also known as elastane, Lycra, and Dorlastan
The Measuring Tape By Christine Jonson
I have a love/hate relationship with my tape measure. I am a visual person and when I actually have to measure something I do it begrudgingly. From the beginning I have fought the notion that I need to know exact measurements. When learning proper pattern making in school I was always eyeing my lines with my ruler while others were busily measuring. Granted there are times when exact measurements are necessary but I avoid those times! Yet, another reason I love LYCRA so much.
After training your eye to understand your shape you will be able to lay out a piece of fabric without a pattern and chalk out a top or skirt. How fun would that be?! Knowing which type of sleeve cap fits into what style armhole, or knowing right off the bat that a sleeve would be too narrow across your upper arm. These are not things only professional seamstresses can understand. If you are doing any sewing for yourself you can trust that your garments will improve if you put down that tape measure.
The problem with measuring The reason I like to chalk my Start with a little test. is that it becomes a crutch. pattern pieces is so I can Guess what your measurements are: You stop trusting what you make alterations easily see and depend on the tape, Bust: ______ Pant Side Seam: ______ without changing my right or wrong. In one pattern. I prefer to make Waist: ______ Back waist: ______ sewing class I took away note of what I did to refer to Hips: ______ Shoulder: ______ next time because I may be everyone’s tape measures Sleeve Length: ______ Crotch: ______ using a different fabric that and saw terror in their eyes! I Inseam: ______ Upper Arm: ______ would require other changes. actually had to fight to get a few of the girls to give them Working with the chalk to up! After cutting out and pressing the pattern pieces add a little here or take away a little there or to we laid them out on the fabric and used our eyes to lengthen a curve or drop an armhole continues that measure from selvedge to grain line. After they were all important hand to eye coordination. As you use your laid out we checked them with our tapes. I wasn’t hands to change shapes on the pattern with your chalk surprised but most of the gals were, for the most part you are unconsciously thinking of your bodies shape they had all laid them straight. This is the first step to and the kind of look and fit you see in your mind’s eye. visualizing. The next step was to take away the pins. It continues when you are cutting the pattern out Again, those faces! I gave everyone a new piece of following the lines. Use long smooth scissors strokes to white school chalk and they were asked to chalk around continue that visual flow. Sometimes even at the point the pattern pieces. Afterwards I took away the tissue of cutting you instinctively cut at the outside of your and we looked at the chalked chalk line knowing you may need shapes. Then we looked in the a bit more room. mirror at our bodies. Did the Whether you are sewing or pattern pieces “look” right? Did serging your project you continue the shaping look like it was in the to visualize and sew quickly and right place for our curves? smoothly thinking of what area of Simply, did the length look right? your shape you are sewing The width of the sleeve hem? together and making small These are question usually left adjustments instinctively being up to your tape measure. When independent of that 5/8” seam you use your eyes for answers allowance. before using your tape measure From the time you choose your you will see that what the tape says is only a guide to pattern until you finish the hems you should visualize what your eye already knows. the finished garment on your body.
