claire
Tutorial
CLAIRE
The Claire bodysuit features adjustable shoulder straps, a square neckline and a brief cut designed to cover just enough at the back. Its flattering and snug fit extends all the way down to the crotch and is held by snaps to keep everything tucked in. Versatile and discreet, Claire can be layered to build up different outfits suitable for both the office and gym. Pattern sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL Difficulty level: intermediate Seam allowances of 12mm (½") included.
PATTERN PIECES
1- Front, cut x1 on the fold 2- Back, cut x1 on the fold
3- Neckline binding, cut x2 4- Strap, cut x2
CHOOSE YOUR SIZE
Choose a size using the BODY MEASUREMENT table below, based on your bust measurement. Between two sizes, pick the smaller one, and when your measurement falls outside of the table, add more sizes to the pattern once it’s assembled.
PREPARATIONS
Print and assemble your pattern. Then cut or trace it in the desired size, blending between sizes when your waist and hips differ from the given measurements in the BODY MEASUREMENTS table below. Lastly, be sure to adjust the pattern length according to your height, if needed, to preserve the garment proportion.
Bust Waist Hips Height
BODY MEASUREMENTS FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS XS S M L XL XS S M L XL 80cm 87cm 94cm 101cm 108cm Bust* 65cm 72cm 79cm 86cm 93cm 31 ½" 34 ¼" 37" 39 ¾" 42 ½" 25 ½" 28 ¼" 31" 33 ¾" 36 ½" 65cm 72cm 79cm 86cm 93cm Centre 50.9cm 52.5cm 54.1cm 55.7cm 57.3cm 25 ½" 28 ¼" 31" 33 ¾" 36 ½" back 20 " 20 ⅝" 21 ¼" 21 ⅞" 22 ½" 88cm 95cm 102cm 109cm 116cm *The pattern is drafted according to a negative ease of 34 ½" 37 ¼" 40" 42 ¾" 45 ½" 15cm (6") at the bust. 1m63 – 1m68 5ft3 – 5ft5
FABRICS & YARDAGE 4-way stretch knit or velvet with spandex WIDTH XS S M L XL 150cm (59") ALL PIECES 0m80 (0yd⅞)* FRONT & BACK 0m80 (0yd⅞)* *Print matching may require extra fabric.
4-way stretch knit or velvet with spandex WIDTH XS S M L XL 150cm (59") BINDING & STRAP 0m10 (0yd⅛) OR fold-over elastic 20mm (¾") BINDING & STRAP 2m (2yd ¼)
Notes: the recommended knit has a stretch percentage of at least 50%, which means that a section measuring 10cm (4") can be stretched lengthwise and crosswise, without resistance, to at least 15cm (6"). Otherwise, opt for a larger size or pick a more suitable knit. Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.1
NOTIONS & TOOLS • • • • •
All-purpose thread Stretch needle 2x twill tapes, 15mm (⅝") x 7.5cm (3") Clear elastic, 10mm (⅜") x 150cm (1yd¾) 3x snaps, 6-10mm (¼-⅜")
• • • • •
2x rings, 10-12mm (⅜-½") 2x sliders, 10-12mm (⅜-½") Double stretch needle (optional) Textured thread (optional) Teflon presser foot (optional)
Notes: the clear elastic can be replaced with a picot edge or knitted elastic. Select a ring and slider width which is appropriate for the thickness of your fabric.
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
To adapt the pattern for a C cup and up, slash the front and back pattern pieces (1 & 2), as shown in the illustration, and shift the pieces to increase the bust width and length.
CUTTING OUT
First, be sure to wash and dry the fabric according to your liking. Then set your iron at medium temperature and press the fabric to remove any creases. To press velvet, place a towel on the ironing board and iron on the wrong side of the fabric. Use the cutting layouts below to lay the pieces on the fabric. If using velvet, be sure to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric so that the pile runs towards the bottom of the garment.
Notes: fold the fabric lengthwise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. To cut ALL PIECES in the same fabric, fold it on one side and cut 1,3 & 4. Then open the fabric, fold the other side and cut 2. BEFORE REMOVING THE PATTERN, notch the edge of the fabric as indicated on the pattern. To use the fold-over elastic as neckline binding and straps, cut it into lengths corresponding to the pattern pieces 3 & 4. Then transfer the notches on the WRONG SIDE of the elastics using a marker or chalk. Do not notch the elastic with scissors. Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.2
SEWALONG
Unless stated otherwise, sew at 12mm (½") from the edge and match the notches and markings according to the corresponding numbers. Sew with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn. For stretch-proof seams, thread the needle with all-purpose thread and the bobbin with textured thread. Then sew with a straight stretch stitch or a narrow and short zigzag stitch (TROUBLESHOOTING).
GLOSSARY
EDGE-FINISH: with an overlocker (serger), serge cutting away the excess of seam allowances. With a standard machine, sew next to the seam stitches with a zigzag and cut away the excess of seam allowances close to the second stitches, as shown in the illustration below.
EDGE-STITCH: sew over the allowances at 3mm (⅛") from the sewing or fold line.
1: sew together the front and back pieces (1 & 2) at the side seams. EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances and press to the back.
2: with a 10mm (⅜") seam allowance, sew one side of each neckline binding (3) to the WRONG SIDE of the garment necklines. While doing so, be sure that the binding is stretched to match up the centre front and centre back notches. On the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, fold the binding twice at 10mm (⅜") to cover the sewing line. Pin and EDGE-STITCH the binding using a zigzag stitch or a double needle. Press. THICK MATERIALS: sew and fold the neckline bindings and straps in narrower allowances. FOLD-OVER ELASTICS: place the WRONG SIDE of the elastic to the WRONG SIDE of the garment, matching up the groove inside the elastic with the fabric edge. On the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, sew over the fabric edge with a zigzag stitch. Be sure that the elastic is stretched to match the corresponding notches. Then fold over the RIGHT SIDE of the garment and EDGE-STITCH with a zigzag stitch or double needle. Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.3
3: with a 10mm (⅜") seam allowance, sew one side of each strap (4) to the WRONG SIDE of the garment armholes, between 1 (front) and 2 (back). While doing so, be sure that the strap is stretched to match up the side seams. On the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, fold the straps on the seam line and extend the fold in the parts not attached to the garment. Press the folds. Then fold the straps twice at 10mm (⅜") to cover the sewing line and folded edges. Pin and EDGE-STITCH the straps using a zigzag stitch or a double needle. Press.
4: thread a ring in the back end of each strap, fold the ends over the rings at 12mm (½") and sew in place. 5: thread a slider to the middle of each front strap. 6: thread the front ends through their corresponding rings attached to the back. 7: clear the sliders around the middle bar by pulling out the straps. Then bring the front ends underneath the sliders. Loop the ends around the middle bar of each slider and sew in place, as show in the illustration.
8: sew the clear elastic using a zigzag stitch to the WRONG SIDE of the garment, on the edge of the leg openings. While doing so, do not stretch or ease the elastic. Once finished, cut away the excess of elastic length. **A Teflon presser foot will slide with more ease over the clear elastic than a regular foot.
9: hem the leg openings by folding the edges at 10mm (⅜") to the WRONG SIDE and sew in place on the RIGHT SIDE of the garment using a double needle or a zigzag stitch. Press the edges at low temperature.
10: place each twill tape on the edge of the crotch opening – to the RIGHT SIDE of the FRONT and to the WRONG SIDE of the BACK. Tuck the parts sticking out to the other side and EDGE-STITCH around the tapes.
11: fold the twill tape on the FRONT to the WRONG SIDE of the garment and the twill tape on the BACK to the RIGHT SIDE. Then sew in place at 12mm (½") from the fold and press.
12: according to your preferred method, install the three snaps along the crotch opening edges so that the front overlaps the back. **Place the socket (female) snaps on the WRONG SIDE of the FRONT and the stud (male) snaps on the RIGHT SIDE of the BACK. Show us your take on this pattern using the hashtag #clairepattern!
Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.4
CLAIRE
The Claire bodysuit features adjustable shoulder straps, a square neckline and a brief cut designed to cover just enough at the back. Its flattering and snug fit extends all the way down to the crotch and is held by snaps to keep everything tucked in. Versatile and discreet, Claire can be layered to build up different outfits suitable for both the office and gym. Pattern sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL Difficulty level: intermediate Seam allowances of 12mm (½") included.
PATTERN PIECES
1- Front, cut x1 on the fold 2- Back, cut x1 on the fold
3- Neckline binding, cut x2 4- Strap, cut x2
CHOOSE YOUR SIZE
Choose a size using the BODY MEASUREMENT table below, based on your bust measurement. Between two sizes, pick the smaller one, and when your measurement falls outside of the table, add more sizes to the pattern once it’s assembled.
PREPARATIONS
Print and assemble your pattern. Then cut or trace it in the desired size, blending between sizes when your waist and hips differ from the given measurements in the BODY MEASUREMENTS table below. Lastly, be sure to adjust the pattern length according to your height, if needed, to preserve the garment proportion.
Bust Waist Hips Height
BODY MEASUREMENTS FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS XS S M L XL XS S M L XL 80cm 87cm 94cm 101cm 108cm Bust* 65cm 72cm 79cm 86cm 93cm 31 ½" 34 ¼" 37" 39 ¾" 42 ½" 25 ½" 28 ¼" 31" 33 ¾" 36 ½" 65cm 72cm 79cm 86cm 93cm Centre 50.9cm 52.5cm 54.1cm 55.7cm 57.3cm 25 ½" 28 ¼" 31" 33 ¾" 36 ½" back 20 " 20 ⅝" 21 ¼" 21 ⅞" 22 ½" 88cm 95cm 102cm 109cm 116cm *The pattern is drafted according to a negative ease of 34 ½" 37 ¼" 40" 42 ¾" 45 ½" 15cm (6") at the bust. 1m63 – 1m68 5ft3 – 5ft5
FABRICS & YARDAGE 4-way stretch knit or velvet with spandex WIDTH XS S M L XL 150cm (59") ALL PIECES 0m80 (0yd⅞)* FRONT & BACK 0m80 (0yd⅞)* *Print matching may require extra fabric.
4-way stretch knit or velvet with spandex WIDTH XS S M L XL 150cm (59") BINDING & STRAP 0m10 (0yd⅛) OR fold-over elastic 20mm (¾") BINDING & STRAP 2m (2yd ¼)
Notes: the recommended knit has a stretch percentage of at least 50%, which means that a section measuring 10cm (4") can be stretched lengthwise and crosswise, without resistance, to at least 15cm (6"). Otherwise, opt for a larger size or pick a more suitable knit. Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.1
NOTIONS & TOOLS • • • • •
All-purpose thread Stretch needle 2x twill tapes, 15mm (⅝") x 7.5cm (3") Clear elastic, 10mm (⅜") x 150cm (1yd¾) 3x snaps, 6-10mm (¼-⅜")
• • • • •
2x rings, 10-12mm (⅜-½") 2x sliders, 10-12mm (⅜-½") Double stretch needle (optional) Textured thread (optional) Teflon presser foot (optional)
Notes: the clear elastic can be replaced with a picot edge or knitted elastic. Select a ring and slider width which is appropriate for the thickness of your fabric.
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
To adapt the pattern for a C cup and up, slash the front and back pattern pieces (1 & 2), as shown in the illustration, and shift the pieces to increase the bust width and length.
CUTTING OUT
First, be sure to wash and dry the fabric according to your liking. Then set your iron at medium temperature and press the fabric to remove any creases. To press velvet, place a towel on the ironing board and iron on the wrong side of the fabric. Use the cutting layouts below to lay the pieces on the fabric. If using velvet, be sure to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric so that the pile runs towards the bottom of the garment.
Notes: fold the fabric lengthwise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. To cut ALL PIECES in the same fabric, fold it on one side and cut 1,3 & 4. Then open the fabric, fold the other side and cut 2. BEFORE REMOVING THE PATTERN, notch the edge of the fabric as indicated on the pattern. To use the fold-over elastic as neckline binding and straps, cut it into lengths corresponding to the pattern pieces 3 & 4. Then transfer the notches on the WRONG SIDE of the elastics using a marker or chalk. Do not notch the elastic with scissors. Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.2
SEWALONG
Unless stated otherwise, sew at 12mm (½") from the edge and match the notches and markings according to the corresponding numbers. Sew with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn. For stretch-proof seams, thread the needle with all-purpose thread and the bobbin with textured thread. Then sew with a straight stretch stitch or a narrow and short zigzag stitch (TROUBLESHOOTING).
GLOSSARY
EDGE-FINISH: with an overlocker (serger), serge cutting away the excess of seam allowances. With a standard machine, sew next to the seam stitches with a zigzag and cut away the excess of seam allowances close to the second stitches, as shown in the illustration below.
EDGE-STITCH: sew over the allowances at 3mm (⅛") from the sewing or fold line.
1: sew together the front and back pieces (1 & 2) at the side seams. EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances and press to the back.
2: with a 10mm (⅜") seam allowance, sew one side of each neckline binding (3) to the WRONG SIDE of the garment necklines. While doing so, be sure that the binding is stretched to match up the centre front and centre back notches. On the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, fold the binding twice at 10mm (⅜") to cover the sewing line. Pin and EDGE-STITCH the binding using a zigzag stitch or a double needle. Press. THICK MATERIALS: sew and fold the neckline bindings and straps in narrower allowances. FOLD-OVER ELASTICS: place the WRONG SIDE of the elastic to the WRONG SIDE of the garment, matching up the groove inside the elastic with the fabric edge. On the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, sew over the fabric edge with a zigzag stitch. Be sure that the elastic is stretched to match the corresponding notches. Then fold over the RIGHT SIDE of the garment and EDGE-STITCH with a zigzag stitch or double needle. Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.3
3: with a 10mm (⅜") seam allowance, sew one side of each strap (4) to the WRONG SIDE of the garment armholes, between 1 (front) and 2 (back). While doing so, be sure that the strap is stretched to match up the side seams. On the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, fold the straps on the seam line and extend the fold in the parts not attached to the garment. Press the folds. Then fold the straps twice at 10mm (⅜") to cover the sewing line and folded edges. Pin and EDGE-STITCH the straps using a zigzag stitch or a double needle. Press.
4: thread a ring in the back end of each strap, fold the ends over the rings at 12mm (½") and sew in place. 5: thread a slider to the middle of each front strap. 6: thread the front ends through their corresponding rings attached to the back. 7: clear the sliders around the middle bar by pulling out the straps. Then bring the front ends underneath the sliders. Loop the ends around the middle bar of each slider and sew in place, as show in the illustration.
8: sew the clear elastic using a zigzag stitch to the WRONG SIDE of the garment, on the edge of the leg openings. While doing so, do not stretch or ease the elastic. Once finished, cut away the excess of elastic length. **A Teflon presser foot will slide with more ease over the clear elastic than a regular foot.
9: hem the leg openings by folding the edges at 10mm (⅜") to the WRONG SIDE and sew in place on the RIGHT SIDE of the garment using a double needle or a zigzag stitch. Press the edges at low temperature.
10: place each twill tape on the edge of the crotch opening – to the RIGHT SIDE of the FRONT and to the WRONG SIDE of the BACK. Tuck the parts sticking out to the other side and EDGE-STITCH around the tapes.
11: fold the twill tape on the FRONT to the WRONG SIDE of the garment and the twill tape on the BACK to the RIGHT SIDE. Then sew in place at 12mm (½") from the fold and press.
12: according to your preferred method, install the three snaps along the crotch opening edges so that the front overlaps the back. **Place the socket (female) snaps on the WRONG SIDE of the FRONT and the stud (male) snaps on the RIGHT SIDE of the BACK. Show us your take on this pattern using the hashtag #clairepattern!
Claire
Copyright © 2018 Kommatia Patterns | www.kommatiapatterns.com
P.4
