Climbs and Expeditions
C l i mb s and E x p e d i t i o n s This year again we are extrem ely grateful to those friends who have done so m uch to help us to put this section together. W ithout their help it could not exist. We can not thank all those who have helped but do wish to express our gratitude in particular to Dr. A d o lf Diemberger, Dr. G.O. D yhrenfurth, Colonel James O .M . Roberts, M ichael Cheney, Kam al K. Guha, Sohli S. M ehta, Ichiro Yoshizawa, César M orales Arnao, K en Wilson, Vojslav A rko, M ario Fantin and m any others.
UNITED STATES Alaska M ount M cK inley. The num ber of climbers on M ount M cKinley continues to rise. There were 27 expeditions, of which 15 p ut members onto the top. O f 188 climbers, 88 reached the summit. Two expeditions are described in articles earlier in this Journal. A Japanese expedition from the Tokyo M etropolitan G overnm ent Officers Alpine Club climbed the M uldrow -K arstens Ridge route. The following got to the top: on July 5 Susumu M aeda, M asayuki Ando, N oboru Ayabe; on July 6 Shinichi Kono, Yasuo K uram ochi, Tom oyuki K aneko, M orikazu Ochiai; on July 7 Kazuo Ito, M atsuhiro Y am aura, Junji Y okota, Toshizo K aneko and M orikazu Ochiai (again). On July 30 Charles K roeger and C urt Chadwick and on July 31 Rick Boyce and Dw ight Olsen reached the N orth Peak via Pioneer Ridge. All other climbs were of the South Peak via the West Buttress route: on M ay 28 Chris Chandler, Patrick Devorin, Ron Fear, Alex M urray, R obert G riswold and Leroy K ingland; in late M ay Ray Genet, Charles Petrie, Robert H albersaat, Louis Blochinger, W alter Ruprecht, Paul Etter and Bernard C abane; on June 7 B ertrand Dubois and Michel Fleuret of the Saudan expedition; on June 29 Paul G erstm ann, Carl M oore, Steve Casebolt, Bob K astam a, Les G erstm ann and Ted Silver; on July 1 R ichard Beach, N ick Hartzell, G ary Kirk, James Clark, Bernard Hallet, Robert Thom as, A m y Jo H eynem an and D aniel Austin; on July 9 Hideyo Takeda, Kuniyoshi Yoroi, M ikio K ukukawa, Koichi Ikegami and Asao A ndo of H okkaido University, Jap an 1, on July 13 Richard Barrett, L arry Schoenberg, H ow ard M arsden, Dennis King and John Rosser; on July 17 Ray G enet, Captains Jam es McMonigle and William Cottrell and Lieutenant Thom as G ardner; on July 21 Yoshio Ogama, K atsum i N agai, K atsum i Sobue, M asao Yoshikam a NOTE: All dates in this section refer to 1972 unless otherwise stated.
and Kenichi M imoto of N agoya, Japan; on July 28 César A. Pérez de T udela of Spain; on July 28 Ray G enet, D eborah W olfe, T erry Cartee, Steve H ackett, W olfgang Lutz, G ene Stanley, H ank H arrison, K arl D on ner, G eorge W alker, Roger K irkpatrick and Lloyd Sumner. The Swiss Sylvain Saudan m ade a rem arkable ski run from 19,000 feet, but it was not from the sum m it nor was it the first ski descent of the m ountain as he reported.
UNITED STATES Alaska M ount M cK inley. The num ber of climbers on M ount M cKinley continues to rise. There were 27 expeditions, of which 15 p ut members onto the top. O f 188 climbers, 88 reached the summit. Two expeditions are described in articles earlier in this Journal. A Japanese expedition from the Tokyo M etropolitan G overnm ent Officers Alpine Club climbed the M uldrow -K arstens Ridge route. The following got to the top: on July 5 Susumu M aeda, M asayuki Ando, N oboru Ayabe; on July 6 Shinichi Kono, Yasuo K uram ochi, Tom oyuki K aneko, M orikazu Ochiai; on July 7 Kazuo Ito, M atsuhiro Y am aura, Junji Y okota, Toshizo K aneko and M orikazu Ochiai (again). On July 30 Charles K roeger and C urt Chadwick and on July 31 Rick Boyce and Dw ight Olsen reached the N orth Peak via Pioneer Ridge. All other climbs were of the South Peak via the West Buttress route: on M ay 28 Chris Chandler, Patrick Devorin, Ron Fear, Alex M urray, R obert G riswold and Leroy K ingland; in late M ay Ray Genet, Charles Petrie, Robert H albersaat, Louis Blochinger, W alter Ruprecht, Paul Etter and Bernard C abane; on June 7 B ertrand Dubois and Michel Fleuret of the Saudan expedition; on June 29 Paul G erstm ann, Carl M oore, Steve Casebolt, Bob K astam a, Les G erstm ann and Ted Silver; on July 1 R ichard Beach, N ick Hartzell, G ary Kirk, James Clark, Bernard Hallet, Robert Thom as, A m y Jo H eynem an and D aniel Austin; on July 9 Hideyo Takeda, Kuniyoshi Yoroi, M ikio K ukukawa, Koichi Ikegami and Asao A ndo of H okkaido University, Jap an 1, on July 13 Richard Barrett, L arry Schoenberg, H ow ard M arsden, Dennis King and John Rosser; on July 17 Ray G enet, Captains Jam es McMonigle and William Cottrell and Lieutenant Thom as G ardner; on July 21 Yoshio Ogama, K atsum i N agai, K atsum i Sobue, M asao Yoshikam a NOTE: All dates in this section refer to 1972 unless otherwise stated.
and Kenichi M imoto of N agoya, Japan; on July 28 César A. Pérez de T udela of Spain; on July 28 Ray G enet, D eborah W olfe, T erry Cartee, Steve H ackett, W olfgang Lutz, G ene Stanley, H ank H arrison, K arl D on ner, G eorge W alker, Roger K irkpatrick and Lloyd Sumner. The Swiss Sylvain Saudan m ade a rem arkable ski run from 19,000 feet, but it was not from the sum m it nor was it the first ski descent of the m ountain as he reported.
