Dariyo Sar, first ascent; Pt. 6,250m, first ascent. Unreported from 2005 ...
K arakoram B atura M
uztagh
D ariyo Sar, fir s t ascent; Pt. 6,250m , fir s t ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents o f two peaks on the B a lta r G lacier. A fter an u n su cc e ss fu l a tte m p t to re a ch the northw est spur o f Rakaposhi as part o f a larger Italian exped i tion, Renzo C oron a and Ivo Fer rari traveled up the Baltar G lacier and m ade the first ascent o f the im p ressiv e 6 ,3 5 0 m D a riy o Sar (a.k.a. Biril Gai Chhok). This peak lies on the west rim o f the upper B a lta r, b etw een th e n o rth and west branches o f the glacier, and on the crest o f the long ridge ru n ning south from unclim bed Beka Brakai C hhok (6,940m ) on the Batura watershed. There had been no previous serious attempt on this peak, though in 1998 it was the goal o f a British expe dition that met with poor snow. The two Italians climbed the 1,200m east face (70° m axim um ), a great sweep o f snow and ice, over two days, August 14 and 15. A few days later Ferrari made the first ascent o f the unnam ed 6,250m peak immediately to the south. Over August 17 and 18 he clim bed the 1,000m southeast face, with m axim um steepness o f 70°. L in d s a y G r if f i n ,
M ou ntain INFO, CLIM B M agazine
uztagh
D ariyo Sar, fir s t ascent; Pt. 6,250m , fir s t ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents o f two peaks on the B a lta r G lacier. A fter an u n su cc e ss fu l a tte m p t to re a ch the northw est spur o f Rakaposhi as part o f a larger Italian exped i tion, Renzo C oron a and Ivo Fer rari traveled up the Baltar G lacier and m ade the first ascent o f the im p ressiv e 6 ,3 5 0 m D a riy o Sar (a.k.a. Biril Gai Chhok). This peak lies on the west rim o f the upper B a lta r, b etw een th e n o rth and west branches o f the glacier, and on the crest o f the long ridge ru n ning south from unclim bed Beka Brakai C hhok (6,940m ) on the Batura watershed. There had been no previous serious attempt on this peak, though in 1998 it was the goal o f a British expe dition that met with poor snow. The two Italians climbed the 1,200m east face (70° m axim um ), a great sweep o f snow and ice, over two days, August 14 and 15. A few days later Ferrari made the first ascent o f the unnam ed 6,250m peak immediately to the south. Over August 17 and 18 he clim bed the 1,000m southeast face, with m axim um steepness o f 70°. L in d s a y G r if f i n ,
M ou ntain INFO, CLIM B M agazine
