Dialogues
Dialogues Some brief accounts of our recent encounters with artists and other interesting people of note.
I’m about two-thirds of my way through interviewing Matthew Miller, when he says something that, for a fashion designer, seems extraordinary. We’re talking about the notions of luxury, and his approach to casting non-traditional models for his shows: “My idea of luxury is just being normal; it’s not selling someone something that they’ll never be.” It’s not the sort of quote that many designers would dare to voice, but then Miller is not your average designer. Not least because we’re sitting down over a few pints in a quiet East End pub rather than cocktails in a swanky member’s club.
Widely appreciated in the world of fashion since the early flourishes of London’s new wave of menswear a few years ago, Miller has developed a cult reputation for forging an urgent, bold and no-nonsense approach to clothing, shows and interviews. His designs are utilitarian, political and understated, with a particular focus on quality, simplicity and social comment. Miller’s approach has its roots in his youth in Stoke: “growing up, art and design was nothing. Education wasn’t a big thing – I was the first of my family to go on to university, and then on to a Masters.” But let’s not read this as a northern-boy-makes-good-inthe-city parable. Since the start of his career, Miller has been interested in the way clothing can communicate and consolidate what’s going on in the world around us: “I think everything we do, all design is political,” he tells me. “My BA collection was called ‘Blair’s Legacy’, because at the time I was graduating, it was all over the news.” More recently, his AW13 collection played on the phrase ‘Content Generation’, with sweatshirts bearing the slogan ‘Born to Fail’. “It was quite a political statement,” he tells me,
MAT THEW MILLER SEB LAW meets MATTHEW MILLER, a menswear designer who isn’t afraid to say what he thinks, and whose approach to design is just as refreshing as his approach to the fashion world.
“based on a 1970s book on the failure of young people, and current statistics on the failure of our system on youth today.
The whole generational gap was quite relevant to
It becomes even more of an issue when a designer collaborates
the times we’re in now, and it was a question of how we, as
with a big brand. Miller has recently hooked up with Ben
a society and as adults, change that.”
Sherman to produce a six-piece capsule collab that plays
Fashion is definitely a merry-go-round of an industry, but
heavily on the brand’s gingham heritage (as well as Miller’s
what keeps someone like Miller involved in it? “I quite
own tenets: the collab is of course “a play on disaffected
like the competitive nature of it; you’re never completely
youth”). How was that process? “What I expect and strive
on top of anything because it’s always evolving.” I don’t
for is perfect detail,” he tells me, “and to get the product
think I’ve ever heard anyone describe it like that, I say.
right took so long: twelve months for these six pieces. I
He continues: “there’s no real right and wrong to fashion
want these to be socialist garments,” he continues, “I want
either; there’s only opinions.”
people to be able to access them.” And is he happy with
It’s not just the big ideas though; Miller is a
them? Of course: “I think they look really good actually;
designer, through and through. We talk about issues with
I’m really proud of them.” What ultimately makes him
production details, and it’s clear that actually getting
likeable as a person is his willingness to challenge the
clothes made is a huge deal for young designers. How
status quo, and keep throwing curveballs. “Sometimes I’m
much of an issue is it though? “It’s the biggest,” he
quite provocative,” he tells me with a knowing smile, “you
tells me flatly, “it’s what we do every day, all day.”
have to be in the fashion world.” Long may that continue.
Field Notes 1. Matthew Miller’s Ben Sherman collection is available now 2. His current favourite pair of trainers, that he was wearing when we met, are a pair of dayglo Reebok Insta-Pumps from 1994 3. Miller’s shows always mix male and female models “I think it’s boring with just twenty guys walking down the runway – there’s no yin and yang” 4. His SS15 collection is currently a work in progress: “it’ll get there; it’s what we do. I;m not worried about it” 5. Read Seb’s full interview with Matthew on www.planetnotion.com
012 Notion
000_N68_Dialogues.indd 1
28/04/2014 13:08:40
I’m about two-thirds of my way through interviewing Matthew Miller, when he says something that, for a fashion designer, seems extraordinary. We’re talking about the notions of luxury, and his approach to casting non-traditional models for his shows: “My idea of luxury is just being normal; it’s not selling someone something that they’ll never be.” It’s not the sort of quote that many designers would dare to voice, but then Miller is not your average designer. Not least because we’re sitting down over a few pints in a quiet East End pub rather than cocktails in a swanky member’s club.
Widely appreciated in the world of fashion since the early flourishes of London’s new wave of menswear a few years ago, Miller has developed a cult reputation for forging an urgent, bold and no-nonsense approach to clothing, shows and interviews. His designs are utilitarian, political and understated, with a particular focus on quality, simplicity and social comment. Miller’s approach has its roots in his youth in Stoke: “growing up, art and design was nothing. Education wasn’t a big thing – I was the first of my family to go on to university, and then on to a Masters.” But let’s not read this as a northern-boy-makes-good-inthe-city parable. Since the start of his career, Miller has been interested in the way clothing can communicate and consolidate what’s going on in the world around us: “I think everything we do, all design is political,” he tells me. “My BA collection was called ‘Blair’s Legacy’, because at the time I was graduating, it was all over the news.” More recently, his AW13 collection played on the phrase ‘Content Generation’, with sweatshirts bearing the slogan ‘Born to Fail’. “It was quite a political statement,” he tells me,
MAT THEW MILLER SEB LAW meets MATTHEW MILLER, a menswear designer who isn’t afraid to say what he thinks, and whose approach to design is just as refreshing as his approach to the fashion world.
“based on a 1970s book on the failure of young people, and current statistics on the failure of our system on youth today.
The whole generational gap was quite relevant to
It becomes even more of an issue when a designer collaborates
the times we’re in now, and it was a question of how we, as
with a big brand. Miller has recently hooked up with Ben
a society and as adults, change that.”
Sherman to produce a six-piece capsule collab that plays
Fashion is definitely a merry-go-round of an industry, but
heavily on the brand’s gingham heritage (as well as Miller’s
what keeps someone like Miller involved in it? “I quite
own tenets: the collab is of course “a play on disaffected
like the competitive nature of it; you’re never completely
youth”). How was that process? “What I expect and strive
on top of anything because it’s always evolving.” I don’t
for is perfect detail,” he tells me, “and to get the product
think I’ve ever heard anyone describe it like that, I say.
right took so long: twelve months for these six pieces. I
He continues: “there’s no real right and wrong to fashion
want these to be socialist garments,” he continues, “I want
either; there’s only opinions.”
people to be able to access them.” And is he happy with
It’s not just the big ideas though; Miller is a
them? Of course: “I think they look really good actually;
designer, through and through. We talk about issues with
I’m really proud of them.” What ultimately makes him
production details, and it’s clear that actually getting
likeable as a person is his willingness to challenge the
clothes made is a huge deal for young designers. How
status quo, and keep throwing curveballs. “Sometimes I’m
much of an issue is it though? “It’s the biggest,” he
quite provocative,” he tells me with a knowing smile, “you
tells me flatly, “it’s what we do every day, all day.”
have to be in the fashion world.” Long may that continue.
Field Notes 1. Matthew Miller’s Ben Sherman collection is available now 2. His current favourite pair of trainers, that he was wearing when we met, are a pair of dayglo Reebok Insta-Pumps from 1994 3. Miller’s shows always mix male and female models “I think it’s boring with just twenty guys walking down the runway – there’s no yin and yang” 4. His SS15 collection is currently a work in progress: “it’ll get there; it’s what we do. I;m not worried about it” 5. Read Seb’s full interview with Matthew on www.planetnotion.com
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28/04/2014 13:08:40
