Dollhouse Kit #CC10
Dollhouse Kit #CC10
Instructions for:
Country Lane Version of the CCI
Read this First! Test assemble using masking tape (without glue) each group of parts before the real assembly of those parts begins. This will allow you to test all the parts and zoom ahead with the assembly when glue is being used. This dollhouse will last for years, even generations, if proper care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time during assembly and be sure to read the instructions completely before you proceed. Instructions: • CC10 Basic House (called CC pages 1 - 6) • CC10 Finishing Materials (called CC1-T page 7) Order of Assembly: • Stain the shingles • Assemble the house following the CC 1 instructions. • Base paint and sand the house and trim. • Attach battons (CC 1-T) • Paint the house. • Attach the rest of the exterior parts • Shingle the Roof Plan ahead for your personalized finishing. Remember that it is nearly impossible to cleanly paint two different colors after the parts are glued to each other (so you should paint before assembly) and that glue doesn’t stick to paint (paint after assembly). These two opposing principles will cause a back-and-forth of assembly and painting depending on your color scheme. For colors that are the same, first coat and sand the parts, then assemble, then second coat the assembled parts. For colors that are different, first coat and sand, test-assemble and mark the parts, then second coat leaving some un-painted areas for glue.
Real Good Toys • 10 Quarry St • Barre, Vermont 05641 • 802-479-2217
Back (1/8 x 14 x 19-1/8) Front (3/8 x 14 x 26-3/8) Door (3/8 x 3-9/32 x 7-11/32) 2 Floors (3/8 x 11-7/8 x 13-1/2) Middle Floor (3/8 x 11-7/8 x 13-1/2 routed) Left Roof (1/4 x 12-1/2 x 13-1/8) Right Roof (1/4 x 12-3/4 x 13-1/8) Front Step (3/8 x 1-3/4 x 5-1/2) 2 Sides (1/4 x 11-7/8 x 19-1/8) 2 Dividers (1/4 x 3-7/8 x 9) 4 Hinge Blocks (1/4 x 1-3/8 x 9) Cross section 2 Crown (1/4 x 7/8 x 13-1/8) Left Peak (1/2 x 1-3/8 x 13-13/32) Right Peak (1/2 x 1-3/8 x 13-13/32) Rear triangle (3/8 x 14 base) Left Entryway Roof (3/8 x 1-3/4 x 3-3/16) Right Entryway Roof (3/8 x 1-3/4 x 3-3/16) Stair Set (top and bottom blocks) Stringer (3/8 x 5/16) ±107/8 //angled ends Hardware: 8 3/8 #3 screws 2 Large Hinges (1”) 2 Latch (fold) 2 Latch (post) 2 small hinges (5/8”) 8 3/8 #18 nails 1 Knob Rails+: 8 1/8dowel (1-1/2) 2 Large Brackets 2 1-15/16 Rails 2 2-3/4 Rail 2 1-7/8 Posts
CC1 Parts List
Left Peak
Right Peak
Rear Triangle
Front
Back
Base Floor Door
Mid Floor Top Floor
Top Stair Block’s “bevel”
Large Bracket Bottom Stair Block
Hinge Block
Cross section of Post Stringer
Chimney Block (3/4 x 1-3/4 x 4-3/4 angled) Chimney Cap (3/8 x 15/16 x 1-15/16) 2 Stax (1/2 x 1/2 x 3/8)
Divider
Bevels Roofs
Door Trim: 2 Exterior Vertical Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 7-9/16) 2 Interior Vertical Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 7-9/16) 1 Exterior Horizontal Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 4-5/16) 1 Interior Horizontal Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 4-5/16) 1 Threshold (1/8 x 3/4 x 3-11/32) Window Panes: 3 Plexi (2-17/32 x 4-7/8) 1 Gable Plexi (2-17/32 x 2-3/8) Mullions: 3 Vertical Mullion (4-3/4) 4 Horizontal Mullion (2-3/8)
Cross sections of Trim Cross sections Window Liners 6 Vertical Liners (3/32 X 3/16 X 4-3/4) 4 Bottom Liners (3/32 x 3/16 x 2-17/32) 4 Top Liners (3/16 x 3/16 x 2-17/32) Cross sections of Trim
Window Trim: 6 Exterior Vertical Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 4-3/4) 6 Interior Vertical Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 4-3/4) 8 Exterior Horizontal Trim (cove molding x 3 5/16) 8 Interior Horizontal Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 3 7/16)
Gable Window: 2 Exterior Vertical Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 2-3/16) 2 Interior Vertical Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 2-3/16) 2 Liners (3/32 x 3/16 x 2-3/16) 1 Gable Vertical Mullion (2-3/16)
Introduction The technique instructions given here include the tricks that we use here at Real Good Toys in assembling dollhouses. Sometimes a procedure is broken down into individual steps that are incomprehensible individually, but are part of a scheme that makes sense all together. These instructions may seem a bit lengthy right now, but we have taken the care to make sure everything is covered in them. Please take the time to read them thoroughly and to completely understand every step before you go into construction of your house. This will make your experience an enjoyable one and insure that your house will turn out as beautifully as we designed it. Your satisfaction is extremely important to us at Real Good Toys. You may have chosen finishing touches (wallpaper, wiring, carpets, siding) that you plan to include in your house. Plan ahead to determine at which stage in the assembly of your house such things may be most easily added. We recommend that you try a dry run for each section before final assembly to check parts, to see how they locate and to understand the assembly. Then you can comfortably start out again, following the instruction steps - this time - using glue and nails. This dry run will help you avoid mistakes. In the dry run steps, you will understand the overall plan of your dollhouse and how it will work for you. You may decide to put the stairs on the right or left depending on where the house will be displayed (easily done now by just flipping the middle floor panel over) . Finally, as you go along, don’t hesitate to stop working on your house for any reason. This house will last you a lifetime. It is too worthy to rush. Supplies, Tools, Tips, and Techniques A. Nailing: Whenever possible, mark a butt joint on the panel through which the nail will pass first, then remove the panel and PREPUNCH nail holes from the back side, on center, between marks. This gives a perfectly centered nail in the joint when nailed through hole from the front and reduces “split out” when final nailing and gluing are done. B. Glue. White “tacky” glue works best. When applying the glue, squeeze the excess air out of the top of the glue bottle before turning it over. Then when you release pressure from the bottle at the end of a dab or line of glue, the bottle will suck the remainder of the stream of glue back in rather than running it all over your work. Between steps, go back and clean up glue after gluing and nailing. While it is possible to do all the assembly of this house with white glue, solvent-based panel cement (not “water clean up”) or hot melt glue is best for the shingles.
C. Masking Tape. 3/4” high-quality masking tape may be stretched over an irregular joint for the best possible clamp. Use at least two pieces of tape for each joint. Don’t be stingy with the tape. 1. Begin as far away from the joint as possible so the tape will adhere well. 2. Stretch the tape almost to the breaking point as you adhere the tape across the joint being glued. 3. Adhere the tape well beyond the joint so it will hold until the glue is dry. Tape should be wrapped around edges of plywood for the best holding power. D. The stair, window and door holes have rounded corners which must be squared. Use a knife, file, or very fine bladed saw and work from the surface inward on both sides to avoid “split out”. E. Sandpaper. Use 100 or 120 Grit. Sand off any rough edges before assembly. Hammer. Some people prefer tack hammers. Sand the striking surface to reduce bending nails. Push nails through a 3 x 5 card or hold with tweezers to start. F. Brad Pusher or Pliers give more control for small nails than a hammer, and without impact. Set nails the last little bit with a nail set and hammer after the glue is dry. G. A utility knife with a new sharp blade is safer and easier to use than a jack or kitchen knife for trimming, customizing and cutting. H. Quick Clamps (spring clamps) or large paper clips may be handy for holding things while gluing as well as masking tape. I. A Paintbrush in a water cup may be pinched dry and used to wipe up excess glue. J. We have found that sometimes assembly is easier with two people. So, try to have someone around to give you a hand when you need it. K. Finally, be sure to follow the instructions exactly when they require keeping things “Square”. It is VERY IMPORTANT. If you don’t quite understand how to do it, ask someone who does. PREPUNCH a hole: drive a nail through the panel from the back side and then pull the nail back out.
#1 Country Lane
Page 2
I. HOUSE BODY A. Parts: the House body consists of 3 floors (3/8 x 11-7/8 x 13-1/2), (one is routed), 2 side walls (1/4 x 11-7/8 x 19-1/8), 4 hinge blocks (1/4 x 1-3/8 x 9), and the rear wall (1/8 x 14 x 19-1/8). B. Assembly 1. Pre-set panel nails 3/16 inch from the 11-7/8 edge of one side panel. Keep nails at least 1” from front or back edge. 2. Put a thin line of glue on the edge of the floor panel (un-routed, take note that any undesirable wood put on the bottom of the base floor is “gone forever”). 3. Nail side panel to floor panel flush at house bottom. Side panel overlaps floor panel. 4. Lay unit on side panel, floor sticking up, and repeat 1, 2, and 3 with the other side panel. Use another floor for an “extra hand” in supporting the side panel. 5. Glue 2 hinge blocks in place flush with front edge of side panel and tight to base floor. (Use large paperclips or quick clamps to hold in place.) 6. Tape 2 dividers (1/4 x 3-7/8 x 9) in place at back edge of side panel, tight to floor. 7. Trim corners in stair hole for middle (routed) floor. Put thin line of glue on both 11-7/8 edges of middle floor panel. 8. Slip middle floor in place on top of the hinge blocks/dividers, spread sides to avoid glue smear, stair hole is normally at left, rear. 9. Nail 1” in from edges of the side panels into four corners of the middle floor. Use straightedge to locate middle hole. (Note: avoid stair hole.) 10. Repeat steps 5-9 for top floor. 11a. Lay unit on face (hinge blocks down). b. Glue and tape or nail back panel to house body FLUSH at all edges. 12. Clean up and let dry.
“Square” the corners of the cutouts with small cuts from both sides
#1 Country Lane
Page 3
II. FRONT PANEL
This illustration shows a window hole with the corners trimmed and Top Liner the Horizontal Liners in place
A. Parts: front panel, all prepacks B. Interior Window and Door Trim 1. Lay the Front panel face down on flat workspace. (The bevels on the peak will be facing up, the door will be to the right.) 2. Glue horizontal liners (3/16 x 3/16 x 2-9/16) on the top and (3/16 x 3/32 x 2-9/16) on the bottom of each window hole. (Note: Liners are flush with front (outside) surface of front panel and leave a space for the window pane toward the panel back.)
Bottom Liner
3. Glue vertical window liners (3/16 x 3/32 x 4-3/4) on sides of window holes. 4. Gable vertical liners (3/16 x 3/32 x 2-3/16) - glue in place in the gable window hole. 5. Set window panes on the liners... slide them all the way to the bottom of the hole. 6. Attach the vertical interior window trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 4-3/4) flush to the edge of the window hole (window must be able to fit between the trim to be removable) and centered up and down relative to the plexi. (Gable window vertical trim is (3/8 x 3/32 x 2-3/16)).
Vertical Liners
7. Attach the horizontal interior window trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 3-7/16). The inside edge of the Horizontal Trim lines up with the inside edge of the Liners (see “cross section looking sideways”). Cross section of the window parts looking down Exterior Vertical Trim
Position of Interior Trim
Vertical Liner the Window panes lift in at the top, drop in at the bottom, and fit between the Interior Trim
Interior Vertical Trim
Exterior Horizontal
Lines up
Top Liner Interior Horizintal Trim Bottom Liner
Exterior Trim
Lines up
Cross section of the window parts looking sideways
#1 Country Lane
Page 4
8. Door trim: the Front panel is still face-down a. Select front step (3/8 x 1 x 5-1/2) from panels. b. Without glue, set step on front panel, flush with bottom edge, straddling door hole. (Hold in place while setting door trim) c. Glue door vertical trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 7-9/16) along each side of door hole, flush with door hole and touching the front step. d. Glue the door horizontal trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 4-5/16) centered over door top. e. adjust the spacing of the vertical trims with the threshold (not glued in place) 9. Hang door:
Front Step is used here as a spacer (without glue)
a. Open hinge and knob prepack. b. Fold hinges over edge of door (3/8 x 3-9/32 x 7-11/32) spaced 1/2” from top and bottom. (this will become the inside of the door.)
Nail
c. Nail hinges in place to door face. d. Turn door over, hinges down and at left. Prepunch knob hole Door 3” from bottom edge, 1/2” from right edge of door panel. Screw knob in place. e. Place door in opening of front panel, knob down, hinges overlapping inside door vertical trim. There,will be a slight space on each side and at top and bottom of door with the step and threshold held in place. Nail door in place thru the trim.
Hinge
Door’s Hinges
10. Panel hinges - Large hinges and screws. Wait to attach the Front Hinges until the beams are on the house a. Front panel face down, door at right, lay hinges pin down along right edge of front panel, pin tight to panel edge, and hinges spaced 1” from top and bottom corners. b. Pre-punch screw holes through hinges. Take care to not go all the way through the panel.
Knob
c. Screw hinges in position. Use a screwdriver that fits the screws.
Front’s Hinges
Threshold and step are used here as a spacer (without glue at this time)
#1 Country Lane
Page 5
NOTE: If you’ve got momentum up, and are waiting for glue to dry, you may skip ahead to Section III and come back later. C. Exterior trim: Front panel face-up, and prepack parts 1. Glue window vertical trim (Pack D, 1/4 x 3/8 x 4-3/4; 1/4 x 3/8 x 2-3/16) to edges of window, lined up with vertical liner ends and edges are flush with liner edges on the inside (see “cross section of the window parts looking down” on page 3). 2. Glue window bottom and top molding in position. 3. Follow “door trim” directions, #8 on page 4 for the door exterior trim. This time also glue front step in place, centered across door, and glue threshold (1/8 x 3/4 x 3-11/32) in position under door. 4. Glue cornice brackets (packed with the rails) 1/8” from ends of door horizontal trim and 1/8” lower than the trim’s top edge. 5. Select entryway roofs (Panel 3/8 x 1-3/4 x 3-3/16). a. Lay roofs bevel down on flat workspace. b. Tape together along 1-3/4” beveled edge. c. Turn unit over and put a line of glue in the “V” of the bevel joint. d. Fold “V” closed and wipe off excess glue. 6. Glue entryway roof assembly in position over door, touching cornice brackets and centered on them side to side. IV. ATTACH FRONT PANEL A. Lay front panel on House body, hinges along the outside of the side panel, front panel 1/16” above bottom of base floor, so front opening panel will open without hitting your floor. B. Screw hinges to Side panel. (Pre-punching makes this easier but be gentle!) C. Attach latches to match hinges. 1. Nail post half of latch to edge of front panel. 2. Fold the other latch piece over, hook it on the post, and make sure the front panel is well closed. 3. Nail second half of latch to side panel. (Be gentle.)
Front
Latch Hinge Block Front
Side
Side Hinge
#1 Country Lane
V. ROOF A. Peak 1. Peak Frame 2 pieces (right and left) mitered points on each end, one beveled edge (1/2 x 1-11/32 x 13-13/32). a. Set pieces so miters meet, bevels to inside of frame. b. Glue and tape in that position. Let dry. 2. Lay it on exposed corners of house body. Match up with front panel bevels. Temporarily place rear triangle directly behind the peak frame to make sure the peak lines up to the angle of the rear triangle so that the upper edges of the peak match the edges of the triangle. 3. Glue and nail or glue and tape to house body (not to front panel). B. Rear triangle (panel 14” at base, 9-1/4” tall) . 1. Glue triangle to back edge of top floor. 2. Tape firmly along edges of triangle, down house body sides. 3. Lay house body/triangle against a FLAT surface to ensure a straight line along the house back and triangle. C. Crown - 2 pieces (1/4 x 7/8 x 13-1/8), with a bevel along the 131/8 side. 1. Lay pieces with bevels down, points touching along 13-1/8 beveled edge. 2. Tape firmly along joint. 3. Turn over, put a line of glue in “V”. Fold joint closed, clean up excess glue, tape, let dry. D. Left roof (panel 1/4 x 11-1/2 x 13-1/8. beveled 13-1/8 edge). Note: It’s the smaller of the similar roof panels. Glue and nail or tape roof panel, with pointed edge of bevel at top, to rear triangle and peak frame. Beveled edge is straight and flush with right edge of triangle and peak frame, roof panel is flush at back, and overhang is even across front. See illustration. E. Right roof (panel 1/4 x 11-3/4 x 13-1/8, beveled 13-1/8 edge). 1. Retrieve crown assembly (assembled above) 2. Lay roof panel in position to final check proper bevel orientation at peak. 3. Glue crown to right roof panel. 4. When dry, right roof can be left to hang from crown in position on house, or it can be glued permanently in place. F. Chimney 1. Parts: Chimney block, large chimney cap and 2 chimney stax. 2. Glue cap to chimney - leave an even overhang all around. 3. Glue (2) chimney stax evenly spaced on cap. 4. Attach to house on the left roof, using glue and tape, flush with the rear edge, and the chimney lined up with the left side of house.
Page 6
#1 Country Lane
Page 7
VI. STAIRS A. Parts: Top Block (with bevel), Bottom Block, Stringer. B. Assembly 1. Glue and tape the Stairs together (Pro tip: I stretch a piece of tape under the stairset, then put a weight on top as the glue dries) 2. Glue the Stairs to the Side and Floors, lined up on top with the Floor’s surface. 3. Glue the Stringer to the underside of the Stairs. VI. STAIR RAILS A. Parts: dowels (1-1/2), posts (1-7/8 x 1/2 x 1/2), 1-15/16 rails, 2-3/4 rails. Paint (one coat) the rails and dowels, sand (in the grooves too), assemble, then paint the second-coat. B. Assembly 1. Put a thin line of glue in the grooves of one pair of rails. 2. Stick Dowels into the groove, spaced evenly using the diagram. 3. Set the second rail of the pair over the ends of the dowels. 4. Re-check evenness of spacing, check that rail ends are square with each other. 5. Repeat for other rail pair. 6. Glue 1-3/4 posts to ends of 2-3/4 rail set. Rails should be centered on post. 7. Glue 1-15/16 rail set to one post of post/rail assembly at right angles to 2-3/4 rails, also centered on the post.
Top Block’s “bevel”
8. When assembly is dry, glue in place around stair hole. VII. DIVIDERS: Dividers may be glued in place wherever you desire, or left moveable. Top Block
VIII. FINISH WINDOWS A. Remove protective covering from the windows panes. B. Windows can be inserted top edge first into window holes. (Sanding edges is a good idea; plexiglass can be sharp!) C. Mullions: 3 sets of standard mullions, one set of gable mullions. Assemble mullion sets and glue into window frames from the outside. GOOD WORK! You have now finished a quality Real Good Toys dollhouse. We have taken great care to give you a product of exceptional value. I’m sure you will enjoy this dollhouse for many years.
Bottom Block Stringer
CC10 Country Lane extra instructions
#1 Country Lane Trim Pack
Parts list: 2 peak gingerbread 12-3/4” 2 entryway gingerbread 2-3/4” 2 3/8” peak edge trim 12” 2 3/8” side edge trim over 17” 14 1/8” batten strips 2-1/2 square feet wooden shingles I. TRIM INSTRUCTIONS a. Draw vertical lines at 1” intervals across the face of the 14” wide front panel. b. Glue the four pieces 3/8” edge trim (with pre-cut angles) in place around the perimeter of the front panel. See Diagram. The long side edge trim will have to be cut off at the bottom. c. Using the 1/8” x 1/8” batten strips cut to fit and glue in place on the drawn lines. II. GINGERBREAD TRIM a. Glue the peak gingerbread (12-3/4”) in place as shown. Set the’sharp angled ends together at the peak. b. Glue the entryway gingerbread to the underside front edge of the entryway roof.
Page 8
Shingle The Roof: On the outside of the Roof panels draw guidelines for locating Shingles. The first guideline on each panel to be shingled should be drawn Shingle length (11/4”) from the bottom edge. Draw the rest of the guidelines spaced 1” apart. Glue: Use a thick solvent-based panel adhesive such as Liquid Nails® available in a caulking gun tube at building supply stores. Trim just a little of the end of the tube for a tiny hole, giving a thin bead of glue. Always use good ventilation with solvent based adhesives. Glue a “starter row” of 1/2” long shingles square edge down along the bottom edge of the Roof, or “Flash” the edge with a 1/2” strip of copper (#SC from Real Good Toys is available through your dealer) to prepare the bottom edge of the Roof for the first row of shingles. Apply a thin line of adhesive just below the lowest guideline all the way across one Roof. Press the top edge of a Shingle into the line of glue, squeezing out the excess. Hold the first Shingle steady and press another shingle into the adhesive, tight to the first. Hold the next Shingle and press in another... etc. all the way across the roof cutting the last shingle to fit. The first row of Shingles is lined up at the bottom. the rest line up with the guidelines. Finish each row before starting the next row. Continue up the roof one row at a time. Start the next row with a half Shingle so that the seam between Shingles weaves back and forth as you go up the roof. Cut Shingles for the top row so that each row will have the same reveal.
Instructions for:
Country Lane Version of the CCI
Read this First! Test assemble using masking tape (without glue) each group of parts before the real assembly of those parts begins. This will allow you to test all the parts and zoom ahead with the assembly when glue is being used. This dollhouse will last for years, even generations, if proper care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time during assembly and be sure to read the instructions completely before you proceed. Instructions: • CC10 Basic House (called CC pages 1 - 6) • CC10 Finishing Materials (called CC1-T page 7) Order of Assembly: • Stain the shingles • Assemble the house following the CC 1 instructions. • Base paint and sand the house and trim. • Attach battons (CC 1-T) • Paint the house. • Attach the rest of the exterior parts • Shingle the Roof Plan ahead for your personalized finishing. Remember that it is nearly impossible to cleanly paint two different colors after the parts are glued to each other (so you should paint before assembly) and that glue doesn’t stick to paint (paint after assembly). These two opposing principles will cause a back-and-forth of assembly and painting depending on your color scheme. For colors that are the same, first coat and sand the parts, then assemble, then second coat the assembled parts. For colors that are different, first coat and sand, test-assemble and mark the parts, then second coat leaving some un-painted areas for glue.
Real Good Toys • 10 Quarry St • Barre, Vermont 05641 • 802-479-2217
Back (1/8 x 14 x 19-1/8) Front (3/8 x 14 x 26-3/8) Door (3/8 x 3-9/32 x 7-11/32) 2 Floors (3/8 x 11-7/8 x 13-1/2) Middle Floor (3/8 x 11-7/8 x 13-1/2 routed) Left Roof (1/4 x 12-1/2 x 13-1/8) Right Roof (1/4 x 12-3/4 x 13-1/8) Front Step (3/8 x 1-3/4 x 5-1/2) 2 Sides (1/4 x 11-7/8 x 19-1/8) 2 Dividers (1/4 x 3-7/8 x 9) 4 Hinge Blocks (1/4 x 1-3/8 x 9) Cross section 2 Crown (1/4 x 7/8 x 13-1/8) Left Peak (1/2 x 1-3/8 x 13-13/32) Right Peak (1/2 x 1-3/8 x 13-13/32) Rear triangle (3/8 x 14 base) Left Entryway Roof (3/8 x 1-3/4 x 3-3/16) Right Entryway Roof (3/8 x 1-3/4 x 3-3/16) Stair Set (top and bottom blocks) Stringer (3/8 x 5/16) ±107/8 //angled ends Hardware: 8 3/8 #3 screws 2 Large Hinges (1”) 2 Latch (fold) 2 Latch (post) 2 small hinges (5/8”) 8 3/8 #18 nails 1 Knob Rails+: 8 1/8dowel (1-1/2) 2 Large Brackets 2 1-15/16 Rails 2 2-3/4 Rail 2 1-7/8 Posts
CC1 Parts List
Left Peak
Right Peak
Rear Triangle
Front
Back
Base Floor Door
Mid Floor Top Floor
Top Stair Block’s “bevel”
Large Bracket Bottom Stair Block
Hinge Block
Cross section of Post Stringer
Chimney Block (3/4 x 1-3/4 x 4-3/4 angled) Chimney Cap (3/8 x 15/16 x 1-15/16) 2 Stax (1/2 x 1/2 x 3/8)
Divider
Bevels Roofs
Door Trim: 2 Exterior Vertical Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 7-9/16) 2 Interior Vertical Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 7-9/16) 1 Exterior Horizontal Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 4-5/16) 1 Interior Horizontal Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 4-5/16) 1 Threshold (1/8 x 3/4 x 3-11/32) Window Panes: 3 Plexi (2-17/32 x 4-7/8) 1 Gable Plexi (2-17/32 x 2-3/8) Mullions: 3 Vertical Mullion (4-3/4) 4 Horizontal Mullion (2-3/8)
Cross sections of Trim Cross sections Window Liners 6 Vertical Liners (3/32 X 3/16 X 4-3/4) 4 Bottom Liners (3/32 x 3/16 x 2-17/32) 4 Top Liners (3/16 x 3/16 x 2-17/32) Cross sections of Trim
Window Trim: 6 Exterior Vertical Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 4-3/4) 6 Interior Vertical Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 4-3/4) 8 Exterior Horizontal Trim (cove molding x 3 5/16) 8 Interior Horizontal Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 3 7/16)
Gable Window: 2 Exterior Vertical Trim (1/4 x 3/8 x 2-3/16) 2 Interior Vertical Trim (3/32 x 3/8 x 2-3/16) 2 Liners (3/32 x 3/16 x 2-3/16) 1 Gable Vertical Mullion (2-3/16)
Introduction The technique instructions given here include the tricks that we use here at Real Good Toys in assembling dollhouses. Sometimes a procedure is broken down into individual steps that are incomprehensible individually, but are part of a scheme that makes sense all together. These instructions may seem a bit lengthy right now, but we have taken the care to make sure everything is covered in them. Please take the time to read them thoroughly and to completely understand every step before you go into construction of your house. This will make your experience an enjoyable one and insure that your house will turn out as beautifully as we designed it. Your satisfaction is extremely important to us at Real Good Toys. You may have chosen finishing touches (wallpaper, wiring, carpets, siding) that you plan to include in your house. Plan ahead to determine at which stage in the assembly of your house such things may be most easily added. We recommend that you try a dry run for each section before final assembly to check parts, to see how they locate and to understand the assembly. Then you can comfortably start out again, following the instruction steps - this time - using glue and nails. This dry run will help you avoid mistakes. In the dry run steps, you will understand the overall plan of your dollhouse and how it will work for you. You may decide to put the stairs on the right or left depending on where the house will be displayed (easily done now by just flipping the middle floor panel over) . Finally, as you go along, don’t hesitate to stop working on your house for any reason. This house will last you a lifetime. It is too worthy to rush. Supplies, Tools, Tips, and Techniques A. Nailing: Whenever possible, mark a butt joint on the panel through which the nail will pass first, then remove the panel and PREPUNCH nail holes from the back side, on center, between marks. This gives a perfectly centered nail in the joint when nailed through hole from the front and reduces “split out” when final nailing and gluing are done. B. Glue. White “tacky” glue works best. When applying the glue, squeeze the excess air out of the top of the glue bottle before turning it over. Then when you release pressure from the bottle at the end of a dab or line of glue, the bottle will suck the remainder of the stream of glue back in rather than running it all over your work. Between steps, go back and clean up glue after gluing and nailing. While it is possible to do all the assembly of this house with white glue, solvent-based panel cement (not “water clean up”) or hot melt glue is best for the shingles.
C. Masking Tape. 3/4” high-quality masking tape may be stretched over an irregular joint for the best possible clamp. Use at least two pieces of tape for each joint. Don’t be stingy with the tape. 1. Begin as far away from the joint as possible so the tape will adhere well. 2. Stretch the tape almost to the breaking point as you adhere the tape across the joint being glued. 3. Adhere the tape well beyond the joint so it will hold until the glue is dry. Tape should be wrapped around edges of plywood for the best holding power. D. The stair, window and door holes have rounded corners which must be squared. Use a knife, file, or very fine bladed saw and work from the surface inward on both sides to avoid “split out”. E. Sandpaper. Use 100 or 120 Grit. Sand off any rough edges before assembly. Hammer. Some people prefer tack hammers. Sand the striking surface to reduce bending nails. Push nails through a 3 x 5 card or hold with tweezers to start. F. Brad Pusher or Pliers give more control for small nails than a hammer, and without impact. Set nails the last little bit with a nail set and hammer after the glue is dry. G. A utility knife with a new sharp blade is safer and easier to use than a jack or kitchen knife for trimming, customizing and cutting. H. Quick Clamps (spring clamps) or large paper clips may be handy for holding things while gluing as well as masking tape. I. A Paintbrush in a water cup may be pinched dry and used to wipe up excess glue. J. We have found that sometimes assembly is easier with two people. So, try to have someone around to give you a hand when you need it. K. Finally, be sure to follow the instructions exactly when they require keeping things “Square”. It is VERY IMPORTANT. If you don’t quite understand how to do it, ask someone who does. PREPUNCH a hole: drive a nail through the panel from the back side and then pull the nail back out.
#1 Country Lane
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I. HOUSE BODY A. Parts: the House body consists of 3 floors (3/8 x 11-7/8 x 13-1/2), (one is routed), 2 side walls (1/4 x 11-7/8 x 19-1/8), 4 hinge blocks (1/4 x 1-3/8 x 9), and the rear wall (1/8 x 14 x 19-1/8). B. Assembly 1. Pre-set panel nails 3/16 inch from the 11-7/8 edge of one side panel. Keep nails at least 1” from front or back edge. 2. Put a thin line of glue on the edge of the floor panel (un-routed, take note that any undesirable wood put on the bottom of the base floor is “gone forever”). 3. Nail side panel to floor panel flush at house bottom. Side panel overlaps floor panel. 4. Lay unit on side panel, floor sticking up, and repeat 1, 2, and 3 with the other side panel. Use another floor for an “extra hand” in supporting the side panel. 5. Glue 2 hinge blocks in place flush with front edge of side panel and tight to base floor. (Use large paperclips or quick clamps to hold in place.) 6. Tape 2 dividers (1/4 x 3-7/8 x 9) in place at back edge of side panel, tight to floor. 7. Trim corners in stair hole for middle (routed) floor. Put thin line of glue on both 11-7/8 edges of middle floor panel. 8. Slip middle floor in place on top of the hinge blocks/dividers, spread sides to avoid glue smear, stair hole is normally at left, rear. 9. Nail 1” in from edges of the side panels into four corners of the middle floor. Use straightedge to locate middle hole. (Note: avoid stair hole.) 10. Repeat steps 5-9 for top floor. 11a. Lay unit on face (hinge blocks down). b. Glue and tape or nail back panel to house body FLUSH at all edges. 12. Clean up and let dry.
“Square” the corners of the cutouts with small cuts from both sides
#1 Country Lane
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II. FRONT PANEL
This illustration shows a window hole with the corners trimmed and Top Liner the Horizontal Liners in place
A. Parts: front panel, all prepacks B. Interior Window and Door Trim 1. Lay the Front panel face down on flat workspace. (The bevels on the peak will be facing up, the door will be to the right.) 2. Glue horizontal liners (3/16 x 3/16 x 2-9/16) on the top and (3/16 x 3/32 x 2-9/16) on the bottom of each window hole. (Note: Liners are flush with front (outside) surface of front panel and leave a space for the window pane toward the panel back.)
Bottom Liner
3. Glue vertical window liners (3/16 x 3/32 x 4-3/4) on sides of window holes. 4. Gable vertical liners (3/16 x 3/32 x 2-3/16) - glue in place in the gable window hole. 5. Set window panes on the liners... slide them all the way to the bottom of the hole. 6. Attach the vertical interior window trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 4-3/4) flush to the edge of the window hole (window must be able to fit between the trim to be removable) and centered up and down relative to the plexi. (Gable window vertical trim is (3/8 x 3/32 x 2-3/16)).
Vertical Liners
7. Attach the horizontal interior window trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 3-7/16). The inside edge of the Horizontal Trim lines up with the inside edge of the Liners (see “cross section looking sideways”). Cross section of the window parts looking down Exterior Vertical Trim
Position of Interior Trim
Vertical Liner the Window panes lift in at the top, drop in at the bottom, and fit between the Interior Trim
Interior Vertical Trim
Exterior Horizontal
Lines up
Top Liner Interior Horizintal Trim Bottom Liner
Exterior Trim
Lines up
Cross section of the window parts looking sideways
#1 Country Lane
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8. Door trim: the Front panel is still face-down a. Select front step (3/8 x 1 x 5-1/2) from panels. b. Without glue, set step on front panel, flush with bottom edge, straddling door hole. (Hold in place while setting door trim) c. Glue door vertical trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 7-9/16) along each side of door hole, flush with door hole and touching the front step. d. Glue the door horizontal trim (3/8 x 3/32 x 4-5/16) centered over door top. e. adjust the spacing of the vertical trims with the threshold (not glued in place) 9. Hang door:
Front Step is used here as a spacer (without glue)
a. Open hinge and knob prepack. b. Fold hinges over edge of door (3/8 x 3-9/32 x 7-11/32) spaced 1/2” from top and bottom. (this will become the inside of the door.)
Nail
c. Nail hinges in place to door face. d. Turn door over, hinges down and at left. Prepunch knob hole Door 3” from bottom edge, 1/2” from right edge of door panel. Screw knob in place. e. Place door in opening of front panel, knob down, hinges overlapping inside door vertical trim. There,will be a slight space on each side and at top and bottom of door with the step and threshold held in place. Nail door in place thru the trim.
Hinge
Door’s Hinges
10. Panel hinges - Large hinges and screws. Wait to attach the Front Hinges until the beams are on the house a. Front panel face down, door at right, lay hinges pin down along right edge of front panel, pin tight to panel edge, and hinges spaced 1” from top and bottom corners. b. Pre-punch screw holes through hinges. Take care to not go all the way through the panel.
Knob
c. Screw hinges in position. Use a screwdriver that fits the screws.
Front’s Hinges
Threshold and step are used here as a spacer (without glue at this time)
#1 Country Lane
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NOTE: If you’ve got momentum up, and are waiting for glue to dry, you may skip ahead to Section III and come back later. C. Exterior trim: Front panel face-up, and prepack parts 1. Glue window vertical trim (Pack D, 1/4 x 3/8 x 4-3/4; 1/4 x 3/8 x 2-3/16) to edges of window, lined up with vertical liner ends and edges are flush with liner edges on the inside (see “cross section of the window parts looking down” on page 3). 2. Glue window bottom and top molding in position. 3. Follow “door trim” directions, #8 on page 4 for the door exterior trim. This time also glue front step in place, centered across door, and glue threshold (1/8 x 3/4 x 3-11/32) in position under door. 4. Glue cornice brackets (packed with the rails) 1/8” from ends of door horizontal trim and 1/8” lower than the trim’s top edge. 5. Select entryway roofs (Panel 3/8 x 1-3/4 x 3-3/16). a. Lay roofs bevel down on flat workspace. b. Tape together along 1-3/4” beveled edge. c. Turn unit over and put a line of glue in the “V” of the bevel joint. d. Fold “V” closed and wipe off excess glue. 6. Glue entryway roof assembly in position over door, touching cornice brackets and centered on them side to side. IV. ATTACH FRONT PANEL A. Lay front panel on House body, hinges along the outside of the side panel, front panel 1/16” above bottom of base floor, so front opening panel will open without hitting your floor. B. Screw hinges to Side panel. (Pre-punching makes this easier but be gentle!) C. Attach latches to match hinges. 1. Nail post half of latch to edge of front panel. 2. Fold the other latch piece over, hook it on the post, and make sure the front panel is well closed. 3. Nail second half of latch to side panel. (Be gentle.)
Front
Latch Hinge Block Front
Side
Side Hinge
#1 Country Lane
V. ROOF A. Peak 1. Peak Frame 2 pieces (right and left) mitered points on each end, one beveled edge (1/2 x 1-11/32 x 13-13/32). a. Set pieces so miters meet, bevels to inside of frame. b. Glue and tape in that position. Let dry. 2. Lay it on exposed corners of house body. Match up with front panel bevels. Temporarily place rear triangle directly behind the peak frame to make sure the peak lines up to the angle of the rear triangle so that the upper edges of the peak match the edges of the triangle. 3. Glue and nail or glue and tape to house body (not to front panel). B. Rear triangle (panel 14” at base, 9-1/4” tall) . 1. Glue triangle to back edge of top floor. 2. Tape firmly along edges of triangle, down house body sides. 3. Lay house body/triangle against a FLAT surface to ensure a straight line along the house back and triangle. C. Crown - 2 pieces (1/4 x 7/8 x 13-1/8), with a bevel along the 131/8 side. 1. Lay pieces with bevels down, points touching along 13-1/8 beveled edge. 2. Tape firmly along joint. 3. Turn over, put a line of glue in “V”. Fold joint closed, clean up excess glue, tape, let dry. D. Left roof (panel 1/4 x 11-1/2 x 13-1/8. beveled 13-1/8 edge). Note: It’s the smaller of the similar roof panels. Glue and nail or tape roof panel, with pointed edge of bevel at top, to rear triangle and peak frame. Beveled edge is straight and flush with right edge of triangle and peak frame, roof panel is flush at back, and overhang is even across front. See illustration. E. Right roof (panel 1/4 x 11-3/4 x 13-1/8, beveled 13-1/8 edge). 1. Retrieve crown assembly (assembled above) 2. Lay roof panel in position to final check proper bevel orientation at peak. 3. Glue crown to right roof panel. 4. When dry, right roof can be left to hang from crown in position on house, or it can be glued permanently in place. F. Chimney 1. Parts: Chimney block, large chimney cap and 2 chimney stax. 2. Glue cap to chimney - leave an even overhang all around. 3. Glue (2) chimney stax evenly spaced on cap. 4. Attach to house on the left roof, using glue and tape, flush with the rear edge, and the chimney lined up with the left side of house.
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#1 Country Lane
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VI. STAIRS A. Parts: Top Block (with bevel), Bottom Block, Stringer. B. Assembly 1. Glue and tape the Stairs together (Pro tip: I stretch a piece of tape under the stairset, then put a weight on top as the glue dries) 2. Glue the Stairs to the Side and Floors, lined up on top with the Floor’s surface. 3. Glue the Stringer to the underside of the Stairs. VI. STAIR RAILS A. Parts: dowels (1-1/2), posts (1-7/8 x 1/2 x 1/2), 1-15/16 rails, 2-3/4 rails. Paint (one coat) the rails and dowels, sand (in the grooves too), assemble, then paint the second-coat. B. Assembly 1. Put a thin line of glue in the grooves of one pair of rails. 2. Stick Dowels into the groove, spaced evenly using the diagram. 3. Set the second rail of the pair over the ends of the dowels. 4. Re-check evenness of spacing, check that rail ends are square with each other. 5. Repeat for other rail pair. 6. Glue 1-3/4 posts to ends of 2-3/4 rail set. Rails should be centered on post. 7. Glue 1-15/16 rail set to one post of post/rail assembly at right angles to 2-3/4 rails, also centered on the post.
Top Block’s “bevel”
8. When assembly is dry, glue in place around stair hole. VII. DIVIDERS: Dividers may be glued in place wherever you desire, or left moveable. Top Block
VIII. FINISH WINDOWS A. Remove protective covering from the windows panes. B. Windows can be inserted top edge first into window holes. (Sanding edges is a good idea; plexiglass can be sharp!) C. Mullions: 3 sets of standard mullions, one set of gable mullions. Assemble mullion sets and glue into window frames from the outside. GOOD WORK! You have now finished a quality Real Good Toys dollhouse. We have taken great care to give you a product of exceptional value. I’m sure you will enjoy this dollhouse for many years.
Bottom Block Stringer
CC10 Country Lane extra instructions
#1 Country Lane Trim Pack
Parts list: 2 peak gingerbread 12-3/4” 2 entryway gingerbread 2-3/4” 2 3/8” peak edge trim 12” 2 3/8” side edge trim over 17” 14 1/8” batten strips 2-1/2 square feet wooden shingles I. TRIM INSTRUCTIONS a. Draw vertical lines at 1” intervals across the face of the 14” wide front panel. b. Glue the four pieces 3/8” edge trim (with pre-cut angles) in place around the perimeter of the front panel. See Diagram. The long side edge trim will have to be cut off at the bottom. c. Using the 1/8” x 1/8” batten strips cut to fit and glue in place on the drawn lines. II. GINGERBREAD TRIM a. Glue the peak gingerbread (12-3/4”) in place as shown. Set the’sharp angled ends together at the peak. b. Glue the entryway gingerbread to the underside front edge of the entryway roof.
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Shingle The Roof: On the outside of the Roof panels draw guidelines for locating Shingles. The first guideline on each panel to be shingled should be drawn Shingle length (11/4”) from the bottom edge. Draw the rest of the guidelines spaced 1” apart. Glue: Use a thick solvent-based panel adhesive such as Liquid Nails® available in a caulking gun tube at building supply stores. Trim just a little of the end of the tube for a tiny hole, giving a thin bead of glue. Always use good ventilation with solvent based adhesives. Glue a “starter row” of 1/2” long shingles square edge down along the bottom edge of the Roof, or “Flash” the edge with a 1/2” strip of copper (#SC from Real Good Toys is available through your dealer) to prepare the bottom edge of the Roof for the first row of shingles. Apply a thin line of adhesive just below the lowest guideline all the way across one Roof. Press the top edge of a Shingle into the line of glue, squeezing out the excess. Hold the first Shingle steady and press another shingle into the adhesive, tight to the first. Hold the next Shingle and press in another... etc. all the way across the roof cutting the last shingle to fit. The first row of Shingles is lined up at the bottom. the rest line up with the guidelines. Finish each row before starting the next row. Continue up the roof one row at a time. Start the next row with a half Shingle so that the seam between Shingles weaves back and forth as you go up the roof. Cut Shingles for the top row so that each row will have the same reveal.
