STYLE
by Laura Kruty
Dressing Your Body
ROBYN HAAGSMA
I
t’s no secret that clothing does so much more than just cover your body. The right color can perk up your complexion, the right dress can give your rulershaped body an hourglass curve, and strategic draping and ruching can disguise a tummy you’d rather keep under wraps. On the other hand, though, the wrong color can make you look sallow, the wrong dress can emphasize bumps and bulges, and the wrong pockets on the back of your pants can widen your rear end. “It’s about looking in the mirror and being honest and accepting,” says Gregg Andrews, a fashion director for Nordstrom. That means choosing the right pieces for what you want to highlight and what you’d rather de-emphasize. The next time you go to the mall, keep these tips in mind.
GREGG ANDREWS
Choose pieces that play up your best assets and downplay what you’d rather disguise
YOU WANT TO …
40
There are times when showcasing an ample chest just isn’t appropriate. In those cases, choose a top that softly drapes as opposed to tightly hugs, Andrews says. A wrap or surplice top also can do the trick. “Avoid something like a high, round neck,” he says. “That creates this ‘plateau’ of a bust. Avoid anything lowcut because you want to avoid spillage.” It might seem obvious, but as with pants, you want to wear the top that fits best. “I see many large-chested women wearing button-down blouses that pull and gape across the front because their chest is simply too large for the shirt,” Robyn Haagsma of about STYLE says. This draws even more attention to the chest. Another no-no is wearing a necklace that doesn’t fall flat against the chest and instead bounces back and forth. This Jessica London dress (left) with its wrap top and Worthington dress (right) with a drape neckline can help de-emphasize a large chest.
Photo courtesy JCPenney
Photo courtesy onestopplus.com
Downplay a LARGE CHEST:
Photo courtesy Kohl’s (left) and JCPenney (right)
Give a SMALL CHEST a boost:
To draw eyes upward, try a Vneck top or a statement necklace. Right: Dress by Bisou Bisou; left: necklace by Simply Vera Vera Wang.
Draw attention to your NECK OR COLLARBONE: To show off a great collarbone, a V-neck that hits the middle of the breastbone will be the most flattering, Andrews says. It both elongates the neck and takes a few pounds off the face. Just don’t go too low or the focus will most likely shift away from the neckline to, ahem, another area. Consider a statement necklace or even a turtleneck. Haagsma says that even though it may sound counterintuitive, a turtleneck, especially one with side ruching, can showcase a long neck.
Look for tops that have seaming around the bust or darts, both of which can define the bust and give it shape, similar to a bra, Andrews says. A lower-cut top also can accentuate the chest –– just don’t go too low. “They don’t have to bear cleavage, but they bring the eye toward the bust,” he says. Haagsma recommends investing in shapewear to draw in the waist and give the hip/rear end area a smooth shape. “Minimizing these areas tends to make a bustline appear larger,” she says. Certain details on tops also can boost the bust. Choose ruffles, a Vneck, a draped neckline or horizontal stripes. And remember certain rules of color. Andrews points out that dark colors absorb light and make things look smaller, whereas light colors reflect light and make objects look bigger.
Wear the pants that fit you the best –– not necessarily the pair with the smaller size on the tag. “I find that many women are set on buying up to a certain size,” Haagsma says. “For example, even if a size 12 doesn’t fit extremely well, women tend to dismiss the idea of buying a size 14 because it’s tough to mentally accept. “When you wear pants that are too snug, the results can be disastrous and can make a large rear end look much larger.” In addition to buying the size that fits you best, take a look at the size and placement of the back pockets. “If they are too small in proportion to the size of her backside, they’ll make it look larger,” Andrews says. “If not placed correctly, they will make the hips look larger.” A pair of pants with a high rise also can enlarge the rear, as can clingy fabrics. Dresses and skirts work well to “soften” the look of a large backside, Andrews says. And, as with any part of the body that you want to disguise, wear darker colors in your pants and jeans. “Light colors and patterns tend to draw attention to a rear end,” Haagsma says.
As long as they fit you well, the Avenue Wide Waistband Straight-Leg Trouser can help downplay a large rear end.
W W W. I N D I A N A P O L I S W O M A N . C O M
July 2011
A V-neck top, draping, horizontal stripes and ruffles, like in this tank by Ann Taylor, all can boost a small bust.
Photo courtesy Ann Taylor
.com plus stop e n o tesy our to c Pho
Downplay a LARGE REAR END:
The nicole by Nicole Miller wrap dress (left) creates a waist, as does belting a dress (right).
Photo courtesy TJMaxx
Play up or create a WAIST: To do so, accentuate the smallest part of your torso. For some, it’s the waist, and for others, it might be right under the bust, Andrews says. Belts not only function as an accessory, they’re also perfect for emphasizing the waist. Haagsma likes using a medium- to large-width belt around your top or non-bulky sweater. “This pairing can take an outfit from good to great,” she says. “It adds an extra element of style and calls attention to the waistline.” If you are using a belt, use one that blends in to whatever color you’re belting, Andrews says. That way, “you’re not creating this strong horizontal line across your body.”
Highheeled shoes that blend into your skintone, as well as straight-leg pants, can help elongate the leg.
Create the illusion of
42
Start with high heels, which, Andrews and Haagsma say, will elongate the leg. Heels in the same tone as your skin are your best bet, as they make the leg look like it extends all the way down to the end of your toes. “It’s a tremendous way to lengthen the leg,” Andrews says. Stay away from pants that taper at the ankle (like skinny jeans), which accentuate the width of the hips and cut off the leg line, Andrews says. He likes a simple straight-leg pant. Haagsma says pants with a slight flare at the bottom also can add length.
INDIANAPOLIS WOMAN
Photos courtesy Macy’s
Photo courtesy JCPenney
LONGER LEGS:
July 2011
Photo courtesy Kohl’s
Draw attention away from a
LARGE MIDSECTION: Haagsma recommends shapewear to smooth and draw in the tummy area. “Additionally, paying attention to where the waistband of your pants or skirt ‘falls’ within your midsection is extremely important,” she says. “Ideally, you want it to lie right in the middle of your midsection. “Having a waistband that falls higher or lower can actually accentuate one’s midsection.” Consider wearing prints or using diagonal draping and pleating to your advantage, Andrews says. “Think about creating that long line using color,” he says. “Don’t cut yourself in half with color, like a black skirt and white blouse. Wear gray or a jewel tone. The higher the contrast, the more you’re breaking that visual line.” You may be tempted to hide yourself in oversized clothes. This has the opposite effect than what you probably intended. “When you wear these shapeless garments, you just start looking bigger,” Andrews says. “You want to create some shape, no matter your size.” W Strategic draping and pleating, like in this Dana Buchman top, can help disguise a large midsection.
W W W. I N D I A N A P O L I S W O M A N . C O M
July 2011
IW Readers Respond “IndyAnna’s Catering experiences great benefits from advertising in Indianapolis Woman magazine. The many leads have resulted in new private, corporate and bridal events. “New clients tell us, ‘I saw your advertisement in a recent issue of Indianapolis Woman.’ We also found that being a part of a special focus section has greatly expanded our business. “Women from Marion and surrounding counties come in with IW’s bridal section that displays our ad. The section offers great information and is being used as a reference for the entire wedding process. Since women are sharing the section with others, we are getting added exposure from our ad, too.”
Judi Sims IndyAnnaís Caterin g
For information on how you can advertise, call us at 317. 585.5858
IfIf your your business business needs needs to to reach reach women, women, IW IW should should be be your your first first advertising advertising choice. choice.
43