(east) Face of Mount MacDonald

M ount M acD onald, Little Face. My cousin A lan D ane W aterm an and I made a new route on the Little (east) Face of M ount M acD onald, some five miles east of Rogers Pass, which finished on a shoulder of the m ountain (climbed a day later to the summit by D ane under extenuating circum stances). The steep route took four days and three bivouacs, two in the rain and one w ithout water. We used m any pitons, with difficulties up to A3 (including one “w aterfall” pitch) and F8. The rock was generally good, quartzite with good cracks. There were no signs of pre­ vious parties. NCCS V, F8, A3. We also m ade a new route on the north face of M ount Stanley of 14 pitches, with some rock but mostly snow. J ohn W

aterm an