Elegant eats: sitting pretty at Pauline's Café

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Page 22  April 10, 2014  Shelburne News

Fabulous Fare – close to home

Elegant eats: sitting pretty at Pauline’s Café

Vegetable Polenta Melt, layering dairy-free polenta, fresh vegetables and greens, Shelburne Farms cheddar, and tomato basil sauce

Route 7 is a vital lifeline for those driving in and out of western Vermont, and its roadside restaurants seem to come and go just as swiftly. Those that have weathered the changing commercial landscape have become some of the best-known establishments in the area. Chef-owned Pauline’s Café is a South Burlington landmark, having remained a staple along Ethan Allen Highway for decades. You simply can’t drive by the promise of a locally sourced, seasonally inspired meal – and maybe a cocktail or two. It’s the first noticeably spring day of the year, and I’m at Pauline’s for some serious Saturday lunch – cocktails and all. The front dining room is at its best, sunlight streaming in through its welcoming face

BY LESLEY SNYDER

of windows. I appreciate the personable touches of fresh flowers at the hostess table, softly lit artwork, and dozens of stemware sparkling from ceiling racks. Pauline’s keeps its promise of regional ingredients starting with the drink menu. In a toast to spring, I order the Bar Hill Sparkler – a shot of Caledonia Spirits’ Bar Hill gin blended with honey, cranberries, and sparkling wine. It’s a touch of both sweet and bitter, and the bartender gets this take on a classic cocktail exactly right. I may always seem overly eager for a complimentary bread plate, but you can blame heavenly pre-entrée samplers like Pauline’s homemade popovers and focaccia for that. While I know popovers can be explained by simple food science, they are

Open Daily Lunch 7 Dinner 7 Sunday Brunch

Voted Best Chinese Food in Northern Vermont

Chef Leu’s House

Chinese Cuisine, Selected Thai, & Japanese Specialties Sushi Bar

1834 Shelburne Road, So. Burlington

802-862-1081 7 PaulinesCafe.com

Lunch • Dinner • Dine-In • Take-Out 3761 Shelburne Road • Shelburne T-Th 11-9:30 • F-Sat 11-10:30 • Sun Noon-9:30

CLOSED MONDAYS

because dining local supports us all

Cheese Plate of fresh fruit and local cheeses

still as magical to me as they are delicious. Crisp, light, and buttery – they’re the ideal follow-up to a bubbly aperitif. The extensive lunch specials serve as a preview of the upcoming seasonal shift in menu items. I start with the soup du jour, spiced lentil. This high protein, vegetarian dish boasts a handful of spices without being spicy, and the broth’s rich curry flavor takes top billing to the soup’s vegetable medley. The warming appetizer helps shake off what is hopefully the last of the winter chill, so I opt to transition to fond tastes of spring in the Tuscan Chicken Sandwich special. Thickly sliced focaccia bread, soft and flavorful, compliments the familiar pairing of roasted red peppers, red onions, and spinach. The Maple Brook Farms smoked mozzarella is a savory variation of the Italian standard, and it adds a layer of depth and refinement to the colorful and classic sandwich. I end the meal on a guiltless note with a tea-based alternative to a coffee drink. The warm Rooibos Honey Latte incorporates a red tea espresso into a glassful of frothy milk. The gently honeyed “dessert”, in its soothing shade of peach, was a relaxing lunchtime nightcap to a wholly satisfying meal. From the comfortable décor and friendly service to the approachably innovative menu, Pauline’s remains a go-to venue that has earned its prominent place among local cuisine. Pauline’s Café is located at 1834 Shelburne Road in South Burlington. Enjoy

Red Rooibos Honey Latte

Sunday brunch from 10:30am-2pm and lunch Monday to Saturday, 11:30am-2pm. Dine out for dinner Sunday to Thursday 5-9pm and Friday and Saturday 4:309:30pm. Call 862-1081 to reserve your table or visit www.paulinescafe.com.

985-5258 / Fax 985-5259 / www.chefleuhouse.com

Relaxed Vermont dining with a touch of the Adirondacks Adirondacks.

LLarge One Item Pizza with this coupon 7.99 Pick-Up or Dine-In

$

Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

4066 Shelburne Rd., Shelburne • 985-9895

local, fresh, original

Serving Lunch into Dinner Tuesday-Sunday,opening at 11:30am Reservations Recommended 97 Falls Road, Shelburne | 985-2830 barkeatersrestaurant.com

1076 Williston Road, South Burlington

|

www.windjammerrestaurant.com 862.6585

Discover romantic dining in the < of Richmond Lunch : Dinner : Sunday Brunch

“Romantic dining, casual atmosphere” 27 Bridge St., Richmond • 434-3148