FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky ...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PRO TECTIO N Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Bridgeland On July 31, 1988, a party o f six established camp at an altitude o f 2200 meters at the base o f Mount Bridgeland. Next morning at 0500, they set out for the summit via the South Ridge. At 1200 they had reached the col below the summit buttress. Then at 1410, the leader o f the second rope lost his balance and fell approximately 18 meters to the belay ledge, where the fall was arrested by his belayer. He suffered numerous deep lacerations, severe bruising, and suspected fractures. The belayer suffered second-degree rope burns to his hands. Two climbers stayed with the victim, while one went for extra supplies at camp and the other two went for help. Twenty centimeters o f newly fallen snow overnight and inadequate bivouac gear left the stranded party soaked and mildly hypothermic. The weather prevented an air rescue in the morning, but a ground party o f wardens climbed in, stabilized the victim and established comfortable shelter for the group. In the afternoon the clouds lifted enough for an air evacuation. (Source: Patrick Shee­ han, Canadian Park Service, Jasper) Analysis The group was generally well prepared and capable o f achieving their objective. The accident seems to be the result of long leads without placement o f enough protec­ tion, and o f climbing technical rock with very heavy day packs. (Source: Patrick Sheehan, Canadian Park Service, Jasper)