FALL ON ROCK, SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Victoria D arryl B ouchard, Jam es Ross, and Steve Thom as were descending the ridge from Victoria North Peak toward C ollier Col on 22 Ju ly 1978. T hey estim ate that the angle of the rid ge was about 30 degrees, and it had 16-18 centim eters of loose snow on a stable base. A lthough they had taken one or two quickly arrested slips, they considered that the rope was not necessary. Thom as slipped w here the ridge becomes rocky and started sliding down the north face of the ridge. He at tem pted a self-arrest, but failed and slid to a platform about 100 m eters down the face. He had hit the side of his face on a rock, and was bleeding from the nose, vom iting, and was disoriented. B ouchard went for help. H igh gusting winds in terfered with the helicopter rescue, but one m em ber of the Lake Louise Rescue T eam landed near the two clim bers and led them to a place they could be
picked up. Thom as was flown directly to C algary and has recovered from the ac cident. (Source: T . A uger) Analysis As one of the clim bers said, “U ndeniably, a rope and a close watch on Steve, who was the least experienced, could have prevented the accident.” A nother said, “In our haste, neither of us can rem em ber w hether or not Steve was w earing a h el met, but it would not have helped his face.” Thom as was fortunate that he did not hit the top of his head. (Source: T. A uger)