FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Selkirk ...

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FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Uto Peak At 1700 on July 28, 1987, a party o f six cadcts (ages 15-17) and two guides w ere des­ cending the northw est ridge o f Uto Peak. The area is used regularly by cadets for training. On this occasion, the party had started late because another group w as ahead, and separation was m aintained to avoid rockfall. The descent route w as broken rock on a w ide ridge graded Class 3 to easy Class 4. The clim bers w ere short-roped. W hen they w ere two thirds of the w ay dow n the ridge, the lead guide w arned the party not to touch a loose block. A s one o f the clim bers (16) moved past the block, she slipped and dislodged it. The block slid four m eters dow n the slope. On its way, it fractured the low er leg o f the fallen clim ber and the hand o f another climber. Unable to contact base cam p w ith their radio, the party sent a runner to notify the park w ardens, and applied first aid to the injured clim bers, w ho w ere evacuated about four hours later by helicopter in the gathering darkness. The leg fracture resulted in circulatory loss below the ankle, and eventually an am putation was required. (Source: E. D afoe,Public Safety W arden, G lacier N ational Park)

Analysis The party w as properly guided and equipped and em ployed appropriate techniques. The accident seem s to be the result o f fatigue, group inexperience, and the difficul­ ties o f m oving a large group through even m oderate terrain. (Source: E. Dafoe, Public Safety W arden, G lacier N ational Park)