Fashion (Oxford History of Art): Christopher Breward Chapter One The ...
Fashion (Oxford History of Art): Christopher Breward Chapter One The Rise of The Designer -factors paving way for celebrity designers: expansion of urban civilization, growing dependence on mechanization and reorganization of labour in industrial manufacturing >The Roots of Modern Fashion -Paris md 19th c was thee fashion city of at least 100 years -French fashion as means of control and self promotion -state sponsorship of the textile and decorative art industry -17th century court dress characterized by its formal construction, rigid composition and hierarchical orders of decoration -use of decoration changed styles more than cut >The First Fashion Designers -by the start of the 19th century fashionable clothing went from court to select group of innovators -Rose Bertin was the dressmaker for Marie Antoinette -inspired Louis Hyppolie Leroy -1850s and 1860s emerge of grand couture -modern fashion was born >Charles Frederick Worth -the father of couture -city center stores played crucial pack in introducing new styles and trends on a much wider scale -inspired by galleries, theaters and bookshops -ability to choose and manipulate fabrics to suit client -1858 opened own dressmaking business -signature lay in play of textures, patterns and attention to cyt and finely tailored finish >Paul Poiret -origins in drapery -sold dress designs to couturiers -began work at Worth’s office and began tailor assistant -issues of copyright lead to the idea of the designer
-contributed to modernization of industry through attitude towards process and promotion of design -inspirations more radical and provocative -manipulated surfaces to suggest mood -1912 growing influence (found department store copies) -offered interpretation of fashion as a dream >Coco Chanel -designer -business woman -leader of taste -hostess and model -turbulent life story and creative output -raised as orphan then went to a convent -work against convention -prioritize self worth of wearer -leisure interests >construction technique -by 1930 name Chanel was associated with modernization of women’s clothing styles -little black dress as her Model T -her zeal to breakdown elitist fashion taste -personal drive, creative vision -more successful than her competitors by applying creative mystique of couture designer to a much broader fashion market
-contributed to modernization of industry through attitude towards process and promotion of design -inspirations more radical and provocative -manipulated surfaces to suggest mood -1912 growing influence (found department store copies) -offered interpretation of fashion as a dream >Coco Chanel -designer -business woman -leader of taste -hostess and model -turbulent life story and creative output -raised as orphan then went to a convent -work against convention -prioritize self worth of wearer -leisure interests >construction technique -by 1930 name Chanel was associated with modernization of women’s clothing styles -little black dress as her Model T -her zeal to breakdown elitist fashion taste -personal drive, creative vision -more successful than her competitors by applying creative mystique of couture designer to a much broader fashion market
