Faux Flange Binding Sewing Concepts 2014
Faux Flange Binding Sewing Concepts 2014 1 - Square the corners of your quilt. Straighten the edges to meet the corners. Place a walking foot on your machine. TIP, stitch a scant 1/4 inch around the entire quilt to compress the layers and keep them from shifting. Use a matching thread in the needle and the bobbin. 2 - To figure out how many binding strips to cut, add up all four sides PLUS 20 inches. Divide that number by 42, which is the width of the fabric. You will need to cut that number of strips. Example: Quilt measures 60 x 40 60 +60 +40 +40 +20 —————— 220 inches Divide by 42 ————————— Cut 5.2 strips, round up to 6 strips Faux Binding Strips use TWO fabrics. The main fabric, and the faux flange fabric. Cut the required number of strips needed of each fabric. Cut the main binding fabric @ 1 1/2 inches wide. Cut the faux flange fabric @ 1 3/4 inches wide. 3 - Stitch the main binding strips, and the faux flange binding strips together, using diagonal seams (fig 1), into one long strip. Trim off the seam allowance (fig 2). Press seams to one side (fig 3). Stitch the two binding strips together alone the long seam. Press the long seam toward the Main Binding Fabric.
Fig. 3
Fig. 1
Fig. 2 Main Binding Fabric
Fig 4
Faux Flange Binding Fabric
4 - TIP, after seams are all pressed, lightly spray starch the wrong side of the binding strips. Press the wrong sides together, keeping the raw edges even. The spray starch will help the binding fabric stick together slightly and keep it from shifting while sewing. 5 - TIP, give your binding a test run on the quilt to make sure that no binding seams land on the corners. This will make to much bulk for a nice looking corner. Lay out your quilt top, start the binding in the middle of one of the longer sides. Lay the binding around the whole quilt, miter the corners while you go. If a seam lands at corner, change your start point. Just a couple of pins will help to hold it in place. Once you are happy with where to start, place a pin on the quilt edge where you’d like the binding to start, and remove all other pins from the binding.
1
6 - Time to attach the binding! Beginning at the pin, on the wrong side of the quilt, place the binding on the quilt edge. Do not stitch the first 12 inches of binding, this will be the “tail” used to close up the binding later. Stitch the binding using a 3/8 seam allowance. TIP, as you approach the corner, place a pin 3/8 from the end. Stitch the binding up to that pin. Raise the presser foot, turn the fabric, stitch off at a 45 degree angle (fig 1).
Fig 1
Fig 1
7 - Turn binding back at a 45 degree angle off the quilt, then fold it back onto the quilt (fig 3). TIP, Do not let the binding fold hang past the quilt edge. Let just a little of the binding underneath show. Continue around the quilt, stopping about 12 inches from where you started. TIP, if you have a small item you are binding, the opening can be no smaller then 9 inches.
Fig 3
2
8 - Allowing for a generous overlap of at least 8 inches, cut off any excess binding you won’t need. Open out and press out crease on one end of the binding. Open out and fold the other end into a 45 degree turn, pressing the crease (fig 1) . Trim off the tail on the 45 degree fold, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
45 degree fold
Fig 1
9 - TIP, using Elmer's School Glue and a fine glue tip, OR Quilt Basting Glue, run a fine bead of glue along the 45 degree seam allowance. Place the other end of the quilt binding over that seam allowance, ,making sure it all lays flat, and press dry. Trim off excess binding at a 45 degree angle. After glue has pressed dry, stitch the seam along the pressed edge.
10 - With the quilt laying wrong side down, binding toward you, press the binding flat, then press it over the edge covering the seam allowance. Miter corners as you go. TIP, run a small bead of glue along the seam allowance , press the binding to the glue until dry. NO PINS needed! 11 - Using a straight stitch, or a decorative stitch, stitch the binding from the front. If using a decorative stitch, guide the walking foot centered over the fold of the binding. Half the decorative stitch will land on the binding, half will land on the quilt. Faux Binding information was found on this blog. http://www.52quilts.com/2012/05/tuesday-tutorial-susies-magic-binding.html
3
Fig. 3
Fig. 1
Fig. 2 Main Binding Fabric
Fig 4
Faux Flange Binding Fabric
4 - TIP, after seams are all pressed, lightly spray starch the wrong side of the binding strips. Press the wrong sides together, keeping the raw edges even. The spray starch will help the binding fabric stick together slightly and keep it from shifting while sewing. 5 - TIP, give your binding a test run on the quilt to make sure that no binding seams land on the corners. This will make to much bulk for a nice looking corner. Lay out your quilt top, start the binding in the middle of one of the longer sides. Lay the binding around the whole quilt, miter the corners while you go. If a seam lands at corner, change your start point. Just a couple of pins will help to hold it in place. Once you are happy with where to start, place a pin on the quilt edge where you’d like the binding to start, and remove all other pins from the binding.
1
6 - Time to attach the binding! Beginning at the pin, on the wrong side of the quilt, place the binding on the quilt edge. Do not stitch the first 12 inches of binding, this will be the “tail” used to close up the binding later. Stitch the binding using a 3/8 seam allowance. TIP, as you approach the corner, place a pin 3/8 from the end. Stitch the binding up to that pin. Raise the presser foot, turn the fabric, stitch off at a 45 degree angle (fig 1).
Fig 1
Fig 1
7 - Turn binding back at a 45 degree angle off the quilt, then fold it back onto the quilt (fig 3). TIP, Do not let the binding fold hang past the quilt edge. Let just a little of the binding underneath show. Continue around the quilt, stopping about 12 inches from where you started. TIP, if you have a small item you are binding, the opening can be no smaller then 9 inches.
Fig 3
2
8 - Allowing for a generous overlap of at least 8 inches, cut off any excess binding you won’t need. Open out and press out crease on one end of the binding. Open out and fold the other end into a 45 degree turn, pressing the crease (fig 1) . Trim off the tail on the 45 degree fold, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
45 degree fold
Fig 1
9 - TIP, using Elmer's School Glue and a fine glue tip, OR Quilt Basting Glue, run a fine bead of glue along the 45 degree seam allowance. Place the other end of the quilt binding over that seam allowance, ,making sure it all lays flat, and press dry. Trim off excess binding at a 45 degree angle. After glue has pressed dry, stitch the seam along the pressed edge.
10 - With the quilt laying wrong side down, binding toward you, press the binding flat, then press it over the edge covering the seam allowance. Miter corners as you go. TIP, run a small bead of glue along the seam allowance , press the binding to the glue until dry. NO PINS needed! 11 - Using a straight stitch, or a decorative stitch, stitch the binding from the front. If using a decorative stitch, guide the walking foot centered over the fold of the binding. Half the decorative stitch will land on the binding, half will land on the quilt. Faux Binding information was found on this blog. http://www.52quilts.com/2012/05/tuesday-tutorial-susies-magic-binding.html
3
