Five Top Eco-Designers
HOT! Five Top
Eco-Designers This is what sustainable, ethical, eco, conscious, responsible designer fashion looks like. But what does it all mean?
44
Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
PHOTOS COU RTESY OF M.PATMOS
Auralis Herrero-Lugo of Auralis harris tweed Sofia cape and Chacon headband, auralistudio.com.
PHOTO BY MÓN ICA FÉLIX
By Jessica Marati
In the world of eco-fashion, there is a long-standing debate on definitions. Some call it “sustainable,” which indicates a concern for the environment but doesn’t encompass manufacturing. For that, there’s “ethical fashion,” which generally involves fair labor practices. The words “eco” and “green” are popular, but their meanings have been diluted by overuse. Some designers go with alternative terms: conscious, concerned, socially responsible, environmentally preferable, natural, vegan, organic. The debate reflects one of the realities of eco-fashion, which is that its meaning tends to change depending on who you’re talking to, what they’re producing, and where they place their priorities. Every garment naturally involves a series of trade-offs. Take, for instance, a tee-shirt. Do you make it out of organic cotton, which is water-intensive, or a recycled fiber, which requires extensive energy to repurpose? Do you produce that tee-shirt locally, to support American manufacturing, or do you work with a fair trade cooperative overseas to provide benefit to a less advantaged community? “Sustainable design is a series of choices,” says designer Tara St James, founder of Study NY and winner of the 2011 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award for Sustainable Design. “Designers must ask themselves along every step of the process whether they’re making the most ethical and sustainable choice they can.” While often these choices can seem black-and-white to consumers, in reality they are much more complex. “You want your choice to be the right one, the one that solves all problems, but there is usually a downside or something that can still be improved,” says Carrie Parry, whose eponymous line earned the top prize at this year’s Amsterdam Fashion Week Green Fashion Competition. Eco-fashion designers tend to approach these trade-offs from a holistic perspective, taking into account how each decision relates not just to the production of the garment, but also to its use and ultimate disposal. Many are quick to admit that the process is not perfect. “I think of myself as a ‘conscientious’ designer,” says Gretchen Jones, who introduced eco-fashion to the mainstream with her Project Runway win in 2010. “I aim to do the best job I can for my environment, economy and community wherever and whenever I can, but I don’t claim to be the most ethical designer out there. I’m just doing what I can so I sleep better at night.” While the following five designers take different approaches to eco-fashion, their work is united by a commitment to producing garments with respect to people and the environment. And they don’t allow the ethical nature of their work to compromise the quality of their designs. “I don’t think ethical fashion can ever make an impact if it only appeals to the ethically-minded,” says Jones. “I want to introduce conscious consumption and ethical practices to a consumer who didn’t think about it, but wanted my work because it was good enough to get their attention.” www.organicspamagazine.com
MARCIA PATMOS OF M.PATMOS Eco-priorities: using organic/
recycled fibers, sourcing materials close to factories, using lowenergy production techniques like hand-knitting Design philosophy: “Elegant
and timeless pieces that can be worn season after season, with the added benefit of eco-luxury.” Fall fashion inspiration:
“Edward Curtis’ book ‘The Women’–portraits of American Indian women from over 100 years ago that still look so graphic and modern.” mpatmos.com Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
45
supporting local production
Eco-priorities: water conservation, craft preservation, using vegetable dyes, supporting local production
Design philosophy: “I make clothing for real women who want to be comfortable and feminine; who are strong, yet vulnerable; who are thoughtful, yet spontaneous; but always embracing in themselves the woman we all want to fall in love with.”
Design philosophy: “As a conscious designer, if I am about to encourage shopping, I want that purchase decision to be based on need, love or both. That’s why I always strive to design timeless pieces that are practical and fashion-forward.”
Fall fashion inspiration: “My father
Fall fashion inspiration: “My collec-
passed way right after I presented my Spring 2012 collection. This fall collection is deeply connected to the process of acceptance, letting go, and most importantly, the thin line between life and weather, dark and light.” gretchenjonesnyc.com
tions are always inspired by different elements of city culture and island life. This collection was inspired by the ultimate Puerto Rican beauty icon: Iris Chacón. In my vision, this character from the Caribbean travels to Scotland and wears my collection throughout the trip, wining and dining and leaving the men in kilts speechless!” auralistudio.com
46
Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
TARA ST JAM ES COLLECTION: PHOTOS BY ALEXAN DRA ROXO, PORTRAIT BY SARA KE R E NS. CAR R I E PAR RY COLLECTION: PHOTOS FROM TH E SE LF PORTRAIT PROJ ECT (SE LFPORTRAITPROJ ECT.COM)
Eco-priorities: using natural fibers,
AURALÍS HERRERO-LUGO OF AURALÍS
G R ETCH E N JON ES COLLECTION: PHOTOS BY KAVA G OR NA. PORTRAIT BY CH R IS CRAG OE. AU RALIS COLLECTION: PHOTOS BY MÓN ICA FÉLIX, PORTRAIT BY MAR IÁNG E L G ONZÁLES.
GRETCHEN JONES
TARA ST JAMES OF STUDY NY
CARRIE PARRY
Eco-priorities: zero-waste pattern-
Eco-priorities: working with
making, working with artisan cooperatives, using organic/recycled/ overstock fabrics, supporting local production
artisan groups, using sustainable fabrics, supporting local production Design philosophy: “A timeless style rooted in sustainability and wearability. Sophisticated and tailored, with an appreciation for luxury, simplicity, color and print, from intricately textured fabrics, to whimsical touches and fastidious workmanship.” Fall fashion inspiration: “The lines and geometric shapes of Bauhaus Design as well as the Festival of Holi (Festival of Color) in India.” carrieparry.com
Design philosophy: “I like to play
with the unexpected: menswear fabrics for women, obscure shapes, items that can be transformed. I don’t follow trends, nor do I aim to create them. I want to create unique, timeless pieces that will outlast seasons.” Fall fashion inspiration: “The fall
collection focuses on warmth and comfort. Most of the fabrics are hand-woven by a collective in India that uses no electricity in its process. The sweaters are hand-knit using alpaca I sourced in Peru mixed with vintage remnants.” study-ny.com www.organicspamagazine.com
Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
47
Eco-Designers This is what sustainable, ethical, eco, conscious, responsible designer fashion looks like. But what does it all mean?
44
Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
PHOTOS COU RTESY OF M.PATMOS
Auralis Herrero-Lugo of Auralis harris tweed Sofia cape and Chacon headband, auralistudio.com.
PHOTO BY MÓN ICA FÉLIX
By Jessica Marati
In the world of eco-fashion, there is a long-standing debate on definitions. Some call it “sustainable,” which indicates a concern for the environment but doesn’t encompass manufacturing. For that, there’s “ethical fashion,” which generally involves fair labor practices. The words “eco” and “green” are popular, but their meanings have been diluted by overuse. Some designers go with alternative terms: conscious, concerned, socially responsible, environmentally preferable, natural, vegan, organic. The debate reflects one of the realities of eco-fashion, which is that its meaning tends to change depending on who you’re talking to, what they’re producing, and where they place their priorities. Every garment naturally involves a series of trade-offs. Take, for instance, a tee-shirt. Do you make it out of organic cotton, which is water-intensive, or a recycled fiber, which requires extensive energy to repurpose? Do you produce that tee-shirt locally, to support American manufacturing, or do you work with a fair trade cooperative overseas to provide benefit to a less advantaged community? “Sustainable design is a series of choices,” says designer Tara St James, founder of Study NY and winner of the 2011 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award for Sustainable Design. “Designers must ask themselves along every step of the process whether they’re making the most ethical and sustainable choice they can.” While often these choices can seem black-and-white to consumers, in reality they are much more complex. “You want your choice to be the right one, the one that solves all problems, but there is usually a downside or something that can still be improved,” says Carrie Parry, whose eponymous line earned the top prize at this year’s Amsterdam Fashion Week Green Fashion Competition. Eco-fashion designers tend to approach these trade-offs from a holistic perspective, taking into account how each decision relates not just to the production of the garment, but also to its use and ultimate disposal. Many are quick to admit that the process is not perfect. “I think of myself as a ‘conscientious’ designer,” says Gretchen Jones, who introduced eco-fashion to the mainstream with her Project Runway win in 2010. “I aim to do the best job I can for my environment, economy and community wherever and whenever I can, but I don’t claim to be the most ethical designer out there. I’m just doing what I can so I sleep better at night.” While the following five designers take different approaches to eco-fashion, their work is united by a commitment to producing garments with respect to people and the environment. And they don’t allow the ethical nature of their work to compromise the quality of their designs. “I don’t think ethical fashion can ever make an impact if it only appeals to the ethically-minded,” says Jones. “I want to introduce conscious consumption and ethical practices to a consumer who didn’t think about it, but wanted my work because it was good enough to get their attention.” www.organicspamagazine.com
MARCIA PATMOS OF M.PATMOS Eco-priorities: using organic/
recycled fibers, sourcing materials close to factories, using lowenergy production techniques like hand-knitting Design philosophy: “Elegant
and timeless pieces that can be worn season after season, with the added benefit of eco-luxury.” Fall fashion inspiration:
“Edward Curtis’ book ‘The Women’–portraits of American Indian women from over 100 years ago that still look so graphic and modern.” mpatmos.com Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
45
supporting local production
Eco-priorities: water conservation, craft preservation, using vegetable dyes, supporting local production
Design philosophy: “I make clothing for real women who want to be comfortable and feminine; who are strong, yet vulnerable; who are thoughtful, yet spontaneous; but always embracing in themselves the woman we all want to fall in love with.”
Design philosophy: “As a conscious designer, if I am about to encourage shopping, I want that purchase decision to be based on need, love or both. That’s why I always strive to design timeless pieces that are practical and fashion-forward.”
Fall fashion inspiration: “My father
Fall fashion inspiration: “My collec-
passed way right after I presented my Spring 2012 collection. This fall collection is deeply connected to the process of acceptance, letting go, and most importantly, the thin line between life and weather, dark and light.” gretchenjonesnyc.com
tions are always inspired by different elements of city culture and island life. This collection was inspired by the ultimate Puerto Rican beauty icon: Iris Chacón. In my vision, this character from the Caribbean travels to Scotland and wears my collection throughout the trip, wining and dining and leaving the men in kilts speechless!” auralistudio.com
46
Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
TARA ST JAM ES COLLECTION: PHOTOS BY ALEXAN DRA ROXO, PORTRAIT BY SARA KE R E NS. CAR R I E PAR RY COLLECTION: PHOTOS FROM TH E SE LF PORTRAIT PROJ ECT (SE LFPORTRAITPROJ ECT.COM)
Eco-priorities: using natural fibers,
AURALÍS HERRERO-LUGO OF AURALÍS
G R ETCH E N JON ES COLLECTION: PHOTOS BY KAVA G OR NA. PORTRAIT BY CH R IS CRAG OE. AU RALIS COLLECTION: PHOTOS BY MÓN ICA FÉLIX, PORTRAIT BY MAR IÁNG E L G ONZÁLES.
GRETCHEN JONES
TARA ST JAMES OF STUDY NY
CARRIE PARRY
Eco-priorities: zero-waste pattern-
Eco-priorities: working with
making, working with artisan cooperatives, using organic/recycled/ overstock fabrics, supporting local production
artisan groups, using sustainable fabrics, supporting local production Design philosophy: “A timeless style rooted in sustainability and wearability. Sophisticated and tailored, with an appreciation for luxury, simplicity, color and print, from intricately textured fabrics, to whimsical touches and fastidious workmanship.” Fall fashion inspiration: “The lines and geometric shapes of Bauhaus Design as well as the Festival of Holi (Festival of Color) in India.” carrieparry.com
Design philosophy: “I like to play
with the unexpected: menswear fabrics for women, obscure shapes, items that can be transformed. I don’t follow trends, nor do I aim to create them. I want to create unique, timeless pieces that will outlast seasons.” Fall fashion inspiration: “The fall
collection focuses on warmth and comfort. Most of the fabrics are hand-woven by a collective in India that uses no electricity in its process. The sweaters are hand-knit using alpaca I sourced in Peru mixed with vintage remnants.” study-ny.com www.organicspamagazine.com
Organic Spa Magazine | September–October 2012
47
