tutorial
Kommatia patterns
FLASH...
A cropped sweatshirt featuring ribbed trims, topstitching details and dropped shoulders. Inspired by the 80’s, its boxy shape and slouchy neckline will look great with hi-rise jeans or leggings. ■ Garment length: approx. 43.6cm (17 ¼") ■ Sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL ■ Difficulty lelel: beginner
PATTERN PIECES
1- Front, cut x1 on the fold 2- Back, cut x1 on the fold 3- Sleele, cut x2
4- Neckline band, cut x2 on the fold 5- Cuff, cut x2
CHOOSE YOUR SIZE
To choose a size, pick the one which has the closest measurement to your bust. If it falls in between two sizes, opt for the smaller one. Because of its loose shape, it is not necessary to combine another size at the waist. The pattern is drafted with 15cm (6") of ease around the bust. XS 80cm 31 ½" 65cm 25 ½" 88cm 34 ½"
Bust Waist Hips
S 87cm 34 ¼" 72cm 28 ¼" 95cm 37 ¼"
M 94cm 37" 79cm 31" 102cm 40"
L 101cm 39 ¾" 86cm 33 ¾" 109cm 42 ¾"
XL 108cm 42 ½" 93cm 36 ½" 116cm 45 ½"
**It is possible to add sizes to the pattern if your measurements are not within the sizing range.
PREPARATIONS
Print and assemble your pattern, then cut directly into the pattern board or trace the pattern in the desired size. If your height is less than 1m63 or more than 1m74, it is recommended to adjust the pattern length to preserle the proportions of the garment. FABRICS Ponte knit, sweatshirt or micro polar feece Width: 150cm (59"), length: 1m10 (1yd¼) **Print matching may require extra fabric.
Tubular rib knit Width: 45cm (18"), length: 0m25 (0yd⅜) OR rib knit trimming Width: 18cm (7"), length: 1m15 (46")
Notes: the cuffs and neck band (4&5) can be cut in the same fabric as the body if it has at least 60% of stretch. This means that a section measuring 10cm (4") can be stretched lengthwise, without resistance, to at least 16cm (6 ⅜")
NOTIONS & TOOLS
Flash
All-purpose thread Stretch needle
Double stretch needle (optional) Textured thread (optional)
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P.1
tutorial
Kommatia patterns CUTTING OUT
First, be sure to wash and dry the fabric according to your liking. Then, set your iron at medium temperature and press the fabric to remole any creases. To press velvet, place a towel on the ironing board to aloid damaging the pile and iron on the wrong side of the fabric. Then, indicate the pile direction by drawing an arrow in the sellage. Use the cutting layouts below to lay the pieces on the fabric. Be sure to lay the pieces oler the velvet so that the pile direction is going to the bottom of the garment.
Notes: fold the fabric lengthwise, as shown, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER (F-P = fold, S-L = sellage). Cut the rib knit trimming into strips corresponding to the pattern pieces (4 & 5). BEFORE REMOVING THE PATTERN, notch the edge of the fabric as indicated on the pattern. Then, transfer the markings to the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric.
SEWALONG
Unless stated otherwise, stitch at 12mm (½") from the edge and match notches and markings according to the corresponding numbers. Assemble RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn. For stretch-proof seams, use a straight stretch stitch or a narrow and short zigzag stitch. Then, thread the needle with all-purpose thread and the bobbin with textured thread.
GLOSSARY
EDGE-FINISH: with an overlocker (serger), serge cutting away the excess of seam allowances. With a standard machine, stitch next to the seam stitches with a zigzag and cut away the excess of seam allowances close to the second stitches, as shown in the illustration below.
EDGE-STITCH: stitch RIGHT SIDE up lery close to a seam or fnished edge, oler the seam allowance. Flash
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P.2
tutorial
Kommatia patterns STEP 01: V TOPSTITCH Make the “V” shaped topstitching on the front piece (1) by connecting the markings 1 with a decoratile stitch or the double needle. **To prevent wavy seams, place a tissue paper between the machine and the bottom fabric piece.
STEP 02: SHOULDERS Stitch together the front and back pieces (1 & 2) at the shoulders. EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances and press to the back.
STEP 03: SLEEVES Stitch the sleeles (3) to the RIGHT SIDE of the garment armholes by matching up the notches 2 and 3. EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances. If wished, EDGESTITCH the seam on the garment using a decoratile stitch or a double needle.
STEP 04: SIDE SEAMS Stitch together the front and back of the garment at the side and underarm seams. EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances.
Flash
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P.3
tutorial
Kommatia patterns STEP 05: NECKLINE BAND Stitch together the neckline bands at the shoulder seams (4). Trim the seam allowances to half and press the seams open. With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the band on itself and press the folded edge.
Stitch the band to the RIGHT SIDE of the neckline edge by matching up the centre front, centre back and shoulder seams. To do so, be sure that the band is stretched. EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances and press the neckline.
STEP 06: CUFF Stitch together the short sides of each cuff (5), trim the seam allowances to half and press open. With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold each cuff on itself and press the folded edge.
Stitch the cuffs to the RIGHT SIDE of the sleeles by matching up the underarm seams and the notches 4. To do so, be sure that the cuffs are stretched. EDGEFINISH the seam allowances.
Flash
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P.4
tutorial
Kommatia patterns STEP 07: HEM Hem the bottom of the garment by folding the edge in at 20mm (¾") and stitch down using a double needle, a zigzag or decoratile stitch. Press.
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Flash
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P.5