FUSION â Shawl/Scarf
FUSION – Shawl/Scarf Happy Sixth Anniversary to Auburn Needleworks!
(April, 2013)
elen pass brandt, © 2013 Exclusive to: Auburn Needleworks (www.auburnneedleworks.com) 839 Lincoln Way, Auburn, CA 95603 530 – 888-0202
YARN: MOHAIR, MOHAIR…did I say MOHAIR? Ah come on, its not that tough to play with – and it is so friendly when soaked and blocked. You need 135 yards of Chunky weight & size 11, 24” circular needles. Finished size is approx. 36” long, by 16” high, after wet blocking. (Sample was done in, Quelle Surprise!, Fusion – 64% Mohair, 9% Wool, 27% Acrylic, 136 yards ) PATTERN: All rows start and end with 3 stitches of garter (knit). All increases are taken on the Right Side (Odd Numbered), occurring right after the border stitches, and right next to the Center Stitch. The Wrong Side (Even Numbered) rows are, with exceptions, all purled in the central section. Abbreviations: K = knit P = Purl pm = place marker sm = slip marker YO = yarn over SSKP = slip 2 stitches, knit the 3rd stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch. K2tog = knit two stitches together M1R = Make 1 stitch right Note: For this stitch, there is a great clip on YouTube called (Make One (M1, M1R, M1R) , which is the style incorporated in this pattern. _________________________________ Cast On 7 stitches (Long tail style, and leave at least an 8” tail, see *** at the end of this section and photos at the end of the written pattern), and work as follows: Set-up Row (Row 0): K3, pm, K (this is the Center Stitch (which is always underlined for your reference), pm, K3. Section I: 26 Row Total ROW 1 - K3, sm, YO, pm, K , pm, YO, sm, K3. (9) ROW 2 – K3 sm, P to last marker, sm, K3 . This instruction applies for all even ROWS (2-26) in this section. Always remember to do this “purling “ROW. ROW 3 – K3, sm YO, K, YO sm, K, sm, YO, K, YO sm, K3. ROW 5 - K3, sm K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K3. ROW 7 - K3, sm K2, YO, K, YO, K2, sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K, YO, K2, sm, K3. ROW 9 – K3, sm YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K, sm, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K3. ROW 11 - K3, sm K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K3. ROW 13 - K3, sm, K2, YO, K7, YO, K2, sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K7, YO, K2, sm, K3. ROW 15 - K3, sm, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K, sm, YO,
1
K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K3. ROW 17 - K3, sm, [K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP] (2 times), K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (2 times), sm, K3. ROW 19 - K3, sm, K2, YO, K13, YO, K2 sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K13, YO, K2 sm, K3. ROW 21 - K3, sm, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (2 times), SSKP, K, YO, K, YO sm, K, sm, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (2 times), SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K3. ROW 23 - K3, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (3 times), sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K], (3 times), sm, K3. ROW 25 - K3, sm, K2, YO, K19, YO, K2 sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K19, YO, K2 sm, K3. ________________________________________________________________________ *** What to do with the long tail cast on – two choices: just weave in the end and call it good (it will appear to be a small bowl) or…. pinch the two sides of the bowl/edge together and lightly seam the three stitches on each side together with the tail yarn, then weave in the balance. It makes the edge look uniform and completes the appearance of the pattern. ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION II (Ridge) ROW A: K3, sm, M1R, K to just before middle stitch, M1R, sm, K, Sm, M1R, K to last stitch, M1R, sm, K3. ROW B: K3 sm, K to last marker, sm K3 ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION III (Solid Section) ROW A: K3, sm, M1R, K to just before middle stitch, M1R, sm, K, Sm, M1R, K to last stitch, M1R, sm, K3. ROW B: K3 sm, P to last marker, sm K3 Do this A/B Sequence 4 Times = 8 rows. ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION IV
Repeat Section II (Ridge) ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION V (Essence of Holes) ROW 1 - K3, sm, M1R, [K2tog, YO] to middle marker M1R sm, K, sm, M1R, [YO, K2tog] to last marker, M1R, sm, K3. ROW 2 - K3, sm, Knit the purls, Purl the YO’s to last marker, sm K3. Note: On Row 1 sequence – if you come to the marker and the count is short a stitch, then just knit that stitch and do the exact reverse sequence after the center stitch. Do this Sequence 4 Times = 8 Rows _________________________________________________________________________ SECTION VI
Repeat Section II (Ridge) _________________________________________________________________________
2
SECTION VII
Repeat Section III (Solid Section) Do this A/B Sequence 2 Times : = 4 rows. ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION VIII (Finale) ROW 1 - K3, sm, M1R, [K2tog, YO] to middle marker M1R sm, K, sm, M1R, [YO, K2tog] to last marker, M1R, sm, K3. ROW 2 - K3, sm, Knit the purls, Purl the YO’s to last marker, sm K3. ROW 3 - K3, sm, M1R, [K2tog, YO] to middle marker M1R sm, K, sm, M1R, [YO, K2tog] to last marker, M1R, sm, K3. ROW 4 - K3, sm, Purl to last marker, sm K3. Note: On Row 1 and Row 3 sequence – if you come to the marker and the count is short a stitch, then just knit that stitch and do the exact reverse sequence after the center stitch.
Bind off can be something simple and stretchy or……… PICOT Bind Off: Bind off 1 stitch (leave it on the left-hand needle). Using the next stitch on the left-hand needle, cast on 3 more stitches. Bind off 11 stitches, (the samples were done using a “transfer the left-hand stitch back to the right hand needle and then knit the two stitches together through the back-side of the stitches” method), repeat this sequence until the end, then create a 3 stitch bump at the last stitch. If you want the “picot bump” to land at the point of the center stitch, keep an eye out for that place on the last row (and make a note of what bind off stitch number you are on) and do your 3 stitch picot cast on at that point. To make it look more even, bind off the same number of stitches after the center bump as just before it - then go back to the 11-stitch pattern. Wet block the piece gently soak in water, hand wring, and form it to dry - to soften the mohair and stretch the shawl. Cheers!
3
(April, 2013)
elen pass brandt, © 2013 Exclusive to: Auburn Needleworks (www.auburnneedleworks.com) 839 Lincoln Way, Auburn, CA 95603 530 – 888-0202
YARN: MOHAIR, MOHAIR…did I say MOHAIR? Ah come on, its not that tough to play with – and it is so friendly when soaked and blocked. You need 135 yards of Chunky weight & size 11, 24” circular needles. Finished size is approx. 36” long, by 16” high, after wet blocking. (Sample was done in, Quelle Surprise!, Fusion – 64% Mohair, 9% Wool, 27% Acrylic, 136 yards ) PATTERN: All rows start and end with 3 stitches of garter (knit). All increases are taken on the Right Side (Odd Numbered), occurring right after the border stitches, and right next to the Center Stitch. The Wrong Side (Even Numbered) rows are, with exceptions, all purled in the central section. Abbreviations: K = knit P = Purl pm = place marker sm = slip marker YO = yarn over SSKP = slip 2 stitches, knit the 3rd stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch. K2tog = knit two stitches together M1R = Make 1 stitch right Note: For this stitch, there is a great clip on YouTube called (Make One (M1, M1R, M1R) , which is the style incorporated in this pattern. _________________________________ Cast On 7 stitches (Long tail style, and leave at least an 8” tail, see *** at the end of this section and photos at the end of the written pattern), and work as follows: Set-up Row (Row 0): K3, pm, K (this is the Center Stitch (which is always underlined for your reference), pm, K3. Section I: 26 Row Total ROW 1 - K3, sm, YO, pm, K , pm, YO, sm, K3. (9) ROW 2 – K3 sm, P to last marker, sm, K3 . This instruction applies for all even ROWS (2-26) in this section. Always remember to do this “purling “ROW. ROW 3 – K3, sm YO, K, YO sm, K, sm, YO, K, YO sm, K3. ROW 5 - K3, sm K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K3. ROW 7 - K3, sm K2, YO, K, YO, K2, sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K, YO, K2, sm, K3. ROW 9 – K3, sm YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K, sm, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K3. ROW 11 - K3, sm K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K3. ROW 13 - K3, sm, K2, YO, K7, YO, K2, sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K7, YO, K2, sm, K3. ROW 15 - K3, sm, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K, sm, YO,
1
K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K3. ROW 17 - K3, sm, [K, YO, K, YO, K, SSKP] (2 times), K, YO, K, YO, K, sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (2 times), sm, K3. ROW 19 - K3, sm, K2, YO, K13, YO, K2 sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K13, YO, K2 sm, K3. ROW 21 - K3, sm, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (2 times), SSKP, K, YO, K, YO sm, K, sm, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (2 times), SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, sm, K3. ROW 23 - K3, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K, [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K] (3 times), sm, K, sm, K, YO, K, YO, K [SSKP, K, YO, K, YO, K], (3 times), sm, K3. ROW 25 - K3, sm, K2, YO, K19, YO, K2 sm, K, sm, K2, YO, K19, YO, K2 sm, K3. ________________________________________________________________________ *** What to do with the long tail cast on – two choices: just weave in the end and call it good (it will appear to be a small bowl) or…. pinch the two sides of the bowl/edge together and lightly seam the three stitches on each side together with the tail yarn, then weave in the balance. It makes the edge look uniform and completes the appearance of the pattern. ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION II (Ridge) ROW A: K3, sm, M1R, K to just before middle stitch, M1R, sm, K, Sm, M1R, K to last stitch, M1R, sm, K3. ROW B: K3 sm, K to last marker, sm K3 ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION III (Solid Section) ROW A: K3, sm, M1R, K to just before middle stitch, M1R, sm, K, Sm, M1R, K to last stitch, M1R, sm, K3. ROW B: K3 sm, P to last marker, sm K3 Do this A/B Sequence 4 Times = 8 rows. ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION IV
Repeat Section II (Ridge) ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION V (Essence of Holes) ROW 1 - K3, sm, M1R, [K2tog, YO] to middle marker M1R sm, K, sm, M1R, [YO, K2tog] to last marker, M1R, sm, K3. ROW 2 - K3, sm, Knit the purls, Purl the YO’s to last marker, sm K3. Note: On Row 1 sequence – if you come to the marker and the count is short a stitch, then just knit that stitch and do the exact reverse sequence after the center stitch. Do this Sequence 4 Times = 8 Rows _________________________________________________________________________ SECTION VI
Repeat Section II (Ridge) _________________________________________________________________________
2
SECTION VII
Repeat Section III (Solid Section) Do this A/B Sequence 2 Times : = 4 rows. ________________________________________________________________________ SECTION VIII (Finale) ROW 1 - K3, sm, M1R, [K2tog, YO] to middle marker M1R sm, K, sm, M1R, [YO, K2tog] to last marker, M1R, sm, K3. ROW 2 - K3, sm, Knit the purls, Purl the YO’s to last marker, sm K3. ROW 3 - K3, sm, M1R, [K2tog, YO] to middle marker M1R sm, K, sm, M1R, [YO, K2tog] to last marker, M1R, sm, K3. ROW 4 - K3, sm, Purl to last marker, sm K3. Note: On Row 1 and Row 3 sequence – if you come to the marker and the count is short a stitch, then just knit that stitch and do the exact reverse sequence after the center stitch.
Bind off can be something simple and stretchy or……… PICOT Bind Off: Bind off 1 stitch (leave it on the left-hand needle). Using the next stitch on the left-hand needle, cast on 3 more stitches. Bind off 11 stitches, (the samples were done using a “transfer the left-hand stitch back to the right hand needle and then knit the two stitches together through the back-side of the stitches” method), repeat this sequence until the end, then create a 3 stitch bump at the last stitch. If you want the “picot bump” to land at the point of the center stitch, keep an eye out for that place on the last row (and make a note of what bind off stitch number you are on) and do your 3 stitch picot cast on at that point. To make it look more even, bind off the same number of stitches after the center bump as just before it - then go back to the 11-stitch pattern. Wet block the piece gently soak in water, hand wring, and form it to dry - to soften the mohair and stretch the shawl. Cheers!
3
