Goromity (5,609m), attempts. Goromity (local name Riyucaibao ...
G orom ity (5,609m ), attem pts. G o rom ity (local n am e R iyucaibao), tow ard th e so u th e rn end o f the Siguniang Shan, is the highest unclim bed m o u n tain in the range. In autu m n 2010 two C hinese clim bers, Luo Biao and Z hou Peng, a p p ro ach ed via th e S huangqiao an d Xiao N iu
C hang Valleys to the west, set up base cam p at 4,450m, and attem pted the southw est ridge. At 5,250m they retreated due to bad w eather and dangerously loose rock. Hitoshi Onodera and I attempted the peak in August 2011. After reconnoitering the access from both east and west, we dismissed the approach from the Changping Valley to the east as being far too long. We approached from the west, via the Da Niu Chang valley, which is south of the Xiao Niu Chang and leads toward Wuse Shan (5,430m). The Xiao Niu Chang is steep and narrow (as reported by the Chinese), while the Da Niu Chang has a trail. We established base camp in the latter at 4,200m and crossed the ridge north, to place advance base at 4,400m in the upper Xiao Niu Chang. This crossing took four hours. O n A ugust 11 we set off up the couloir tow ard the col at the base o f the southeast ridge but at 5,000m found ourselves dangerously exposed to frequent rockfall. We retreated. T a k a o O h e , Japan, supplied by Tamotsu Nakamura
C hang Valleys to the west, set up base cam p at 4,450m, and attem pted the southw est ridge. At 5,250m they retreated due to bad w eather and dangerously loose rock. Hitoshi Onodera and I attempted the peak in August 2011. After reconnoitering the access from both east and west, we dismissed the approach from the Changping Valley to the east as being far too long. We approached from the west, via the Da Niu Chang valley, which is south of the Xiao Niu Chang and leads toward Wuse Shan (5,430m). The Xiao Niu Chang is steep and narrow (as reported by the Chinese), while the Da Niu Chang has a trail. We established base camp in the latter at 4,200m and crossed the ridge north, to place advance base at 4,400m in the upper Xiao Niu Chang. This crossing took four hours. O n A ugust 11 we set off up the couloir tow ard the col at the base o f the southeast ridge but at 5,000m found ourselves dangerously exposed to frequent rockfall. We retreated. T a k a o O h e , Japan, supplied by Tamotsu Nakamura
