Great Garage Makeovers
Support cleats
1 wall-cleat mounting heights
Drywall or other wallboard surface Wall cleats
Wall cleats 82½"
Wall stud
64¾"
Spacer
2 cleats
wall-cleat basics M
¾"
WD325192.ai 2/09
SUPPORT CLEAT
easure your shop for the total linear feet of wall cleat you’ll need. This workshop has cleats at two levels [Drawing 1] although not necessarily on every wall. Plan your wall-cleat mounting heights according to your needs. Joint one edge of your boards straight, rip them to 3" wide, and then bevel-rip one edge [Drawing 2]. Sand the cleats, and apply two coats of satin polyurethane. Locate the wall studs, and drill countersunk shank holes in the cleats at these locations. Level the cleats, drill pilot holes, and drive the screws. The spacer (same thickness as the support cleat) prevents a cleated panel from wobbling on the wall and keeps the panel hanging perfectly vertical.
woodmagazine.com
3"
5⁄32" shank hole, countersunk FILENAME:152WallSystem1.eps Date: 8-03 Lor na J .
#8 x 1¼ " F.H. wood screw
Fasten this cleat to the wall organizer.
45o bevel 1⁄8"
1⁄8"
WALL CLEAT #10 x 2½" F.H. wood screw
45° bevel 3" Fasten this cleat to a wall stud.
3⁄16" shank hole, countersunk
53
wall organizers #8 x 1¼" F.H. wood screw 24"
23¼"
¾" rabbet 3⁄8" deep
F
2" D
3"
B ¾"
22½"
45o bevel 5⁄32" shank hole, countersunk on back face
A Note: All stock is ¾" except panel C .
48"
¼ x 23¼ x 47¼" perforated hardboard
A
#8 x 1¼" F.H. wood screw 24" C
¼" grooves 3⁄8" deep ¼" from front edge
¾" rabbet 3⁄8" deep
E
24"
2"
5⁄32" shank hole, countersunk on back face
B 1¼"
WD325194.ai 2/09 CHANGED
add a perforated hardboard panel
FILENAME:152WallSystem3.eps Date: 8-03 Keep frequently tools Lor na J used .
organized on a panel near your workbench. You’ll find a variety of hooks and hangers at hardware stores and in woodworking catalogs.
54
C
ut the frame sides (A) and frame top and bottom (B) to the sizes noted on the drawing above. With a dado blade, cut 1/4" grooves 3/8" deep in the sides, top, and bottom, where shown above. Then cut the 3/4" rabbets 3/8" deep in the ends of the sides. Cut the 1 ⁄4" perforated hardboard panel (C) to size. Squeeze glue into the frame members’ grooves, and clamp them to the panel. Cut the top back rail (D) and
bottom spacer (E) to size. Glue and clamp the rail to the back of the perforated hardboard panel (C). Clamp the spacer in place, drill screw holes through the spacer and into the frame bottom (B), and drive the screws. Cut the support cleat (F) to size, and then bevel one edge, where shown on page 53. Glue and clamp it in place, flush with the top of the frame top (B). Drill screw holes, and drive the screws.
Great Garage Makeovers 2010
1 wall-cleat mounting heights
Drywall or other wallboard surface Wall cleats
Wall cleats 82½"
Wall stud
64¾"
Spacer
2 cleats
wall-cleat basics M
¾"
WD325192.ai 2/09
SUPPORT CLEAT
easure your shop for the total linear feet of wall cleat you’ll need. This workshop has cleats at two levels [Drawing 1] although not necessarily on every wall. Plan your wall-cleat mounting heights according to your needs. Joint one edge of your boards straight, rip them to 3" wide, and then bevel-rip one edge [Drawing 2]. Sand the cleats, and apply two coats of satin polyurethane. Locate the wall studs, and drill countersunk shank holes in the cleats at these locations. Level the cleats, drill pilot holes, and drive the screws. The spacer (same thickness as the support cleat) prevents a cleated panel from wobbling on the wall and keeps the panel hanging perfectly vertical.
woodmagazine.com
3"
5⁄32" shank hole, countersunk FILENAME:152WallSystem1.eps Date: 8-03 Lor na J .
#8 x 1¼ " F.H. wood screw
Fasten this cleat to the wall organizer.
45o bevel 1⁄8"
1⁄8"
WALL CLEAT #10 x 2½" F.H. wood screw
45° bevel 3" Fasten this cleat to a wall stud.
3⁄16" shank hole, countersunk
53
wall organizers #8 x 1¼" F.H. wood screw 24"
23¼"
¾" rabbet 3⁄8" deep
F
2" D
3"
B ¾"
22½"
45o bevel 5⁄32" shank hole, countersunk on back face
A Note: All stock is ¾" except panel C .
48"
¼ x 23¼ x 47¼" perforated hardboard
A
#8 x 1¼" F.H. wood screw 24" C
¼" grooves 3⁄8" deep ¼" from front edge
¾" rabbet 3⁄8" deep
E
24"
2"
5⁄32" shank hole, countersunk on back face
B 1¼"
WD325194.ai 2/09 CHANGED
add a perforated hardboard panel
FILENAME:152WallSystem3.eps Date: 8-03 Keep frequently tools Lor na J used .
organized on a panel near your workbench. You’ll find a variety of hooks and hangers at hardware stores and in woodworking catalogs.
54
C
ut the frame sides (A) and frame top and bottom (B) to the sizes noted on the drawing above. With a dado blade, cut 1/4" grooves 3/8" deep in the sides, top, and bottom, where shown above. Then cut the 3/4" rabbets 3/8" deep in the ends of the sides. Cut the 1 ⁄4" perforated hardboard panel (C) to size. Squeeze glue into the frame members’ grooves, and clamp them to the panel. Cut the top back rail (D) and
bottom spacer (E) to size. Glue and clamp the rail to the back of the perforated hardboard panel (C). Clamp the spacer in place, drill screw holes through the spacer and into the frame bottom (B), and drive the screws. Cut the support cleat (F) to size, and then bevel one edge, where shown on page 53. Glue and clamp it in place, flush with the top of the frame top (B). Drill screw holes, and drive the screws.
Great Garage Makeovers 2010
