handsomely handmade
HANDSOMELY HANDMADE
W
hen Jeanne Lanvin set up shop in St Honoré in Paris in 1889, she was, probably unknowingly, building the foundations of a legacy. A legacy that still holds true today. Jeanne Lanvin’s founding rules encompassed a dedication to using the finest materials, exceptional attention to detail and a style that never overpowers the individuality of the man wearing the clothes. So no wonder, then, that these were the values adhered to when Lanvin decided to readdress its menswear lines across the board. Under the watchful eye of artistic director Alber Elbaz, Lanvin’s menswear has been given the stand-talllook-sharp treatment. A job that was apparently more than a little daunting: “This is the fear I felt when the decision was taken five years ago to change the image of Lanvin Man. With the arrival of Lucas Ossendrijver, we took all the Lanvin menswear lines back to the drawing board, from ready-towear to made-to-measure and bespoke. We had to dive in the deep end of a different men’s style without jeopardising the brand’s essential comfort, fine materials, painstaking
56
attention to detail, excellence and restraint. At the edge of the diving board, we were both frightened of the leap and excited by it. And then we jumped…” And jump they did. Lanvin’s ready-to-wear lines have been both refreshed and rejuvenated – broadening its appeal to younger customers. An additional service was created to bridge the gap between ready-to-wear and bespoke in the form of made-to-measure; a service that blends the classism of modern cuts with a customised approach. It provides Lavin ready-to-wear customers with the option of having a suit not only altered, but also adjusted to fit the shape of the individual. This service is perfect for customers who may have a physique that doesn’t necessarily fall into the stereotyped suit sizes, or for someone looking to add little personal touches. This can include the addition of initials, the selection of two or three buttons on a sleeve, the shape of lapels, an open buttonhole, the colour of the lining and, of course, access to the wealth of Lanvin’s fabrics. Made-to-measure customers are given 20 bunches, i.e. 1,200 to 1,500 different fabrics, both
images: sipplied
When a man knows exactly what he wants, he heads to the one place that knows exactly how to give it to him…
57
Above: The remarkable window displays in Lanvin stores in Paris. Above centre: the flagship Lanvin store and workshop on Rue Faubourg Saint -Honoré Centre and Right: Backstage images from the latest Lanvin ready-to-wear collections.
58
permanent and seasonal, to choose from. For those wishing to experience la grande mesure of hand-made excellence, Lanvin’s bespoke service is located on the third floor of 15 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where a workshop is nestled away. Behind the luxury changing rooms and Alber Eraz-designed sofas lies the heart of Lanvin Man creativity. Under the supervision of Lanvin’s master tailor Vito d’Onghia, 12 people work in a silent and measured dedication. A silence that is apparently necessary to “foster the concentration necessary for the cult of the exceptional of which they are the high priests”. Or in other words, “ we need quiet…or we’d make mistakes”, as d’Onghia succinctly puts it. This approach would undoubtedly apply to any bastion of bespoke such as Lanvin whose reputation runs on that which is flawless elegance. It is what Lanvin’s male clients have come to expect: “Bespoke tailoring is a tradition; we started in 1926,” says store manager Alexandre Bernard “Our male clientele has always
been elitist; that’s why they come here. They want this constant tradition, this standard of brilliance, and the complete freedom to ask for what you want.” This can encompass anything from morning coats to dinner jackets and dressing gowns to pyjamas; there’s is no limit to the luxuries that can be custom-made by Lanvin as long as they adhere to the style ethics and reputation of the brand. This can sometimes involve refusing certain of the more eccentric requests, but on the whole, the Lanvin approach involves creating a design and cut that is completely tailored around the customer, rather than working off a base pattern: “It’s not like made-to-measure, where you start with a kit or pattern, for example. It’s completely cut and tailored, constructed for the customer,” Bernard explains. “We choose the fabric according to his needs: does he often visit hot countries? Is he conscientious? Does he want a garment that travels well? Does he take the plane often? Has he got good staff for maintenance – a good 59
Below: Some of Lanvin’s striking artwork from recent campaigns for Lanvin Man Centre and Left: Lanvin’s flagship store houses all aspects of clothing for men
dry-cleaner? His requirements, too; his tastes and habits are important. If he uses a large fountain pen, we can create a special pocket for it. If he wants a hidden pocket, we can make one.” All of this requires the skill of listening, which is of an importance paramount to that of cutting cloth. Lanvin’s male clientele are hand-picked and predictably demanding. Before any measurements are taken, an initial meeting is held away from the busy lower floors of the store, in the hushed haven of privacy on the third floor. Lanvin sales assistants are specially trained to provide a service that is discreet, efficient and restrained; everything a typical Lanvin made-to-measure client would expect. He will be guided through a choice of more than 17,000 suit fabrics and 4,000 shirt fabrics, some of which are 60
in stock, some of which are rotated every six months from such prestigious names as Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, Scabal and Loro Piana. Once the customer’s individual tastes have been identified and catered to, master tailor Vito d’Onghia steps in to take a series of measurements, which will then be translated onto a toile that will be used to fine-tune the garments being created. The toiles are made of horsehair, which is highly durable, and onto which various pieces of fabric are attached with Velcro in order to show the customer the effect and to be able to make alterations to move on to the second fitting. Further tweaks and adjustments will be made before the garment is ready for its final production and assembly by a team of staff who all specialise in different areas: sleeves, jacket fronts, trousers and so on. The
final garment is ready after approximately three to five weeks, at which point all that is required is the look of satisfaction on the client’s face as he wears the item that has been crafted for him and him alone by d’Onghia and his talented team. The story doesn’t end, however, once the customers walks out of the door. Lanvin bespoke carries a lifetime guarantee. But who are these men who demand this kind of impeccable service and whose dedication to impeccable dress is unwavering? “It’s epicureans who fall for the perfect finish, a supple line, a natural cut…Men who, when they look at their jacket collar and see the label marked ‘Lanvin, 15 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris’, and, by hand, their name, the date of their order and a chessboard symbol, know that they have just achieved the last word in elegance.” 61
W
hen Jeanne Lanvin set up shop in St Honoré in Paris in 1889, she was, probably unknowingly, building the foundations of a legacy. A legacy that still holds true today. Jeanne Lanvin’s founding rules encompassed a dedication to using the finest materials, exceptional attention to detail and a style that never overpowers the individuality of the man wearing the clothes. So no wonder, then, that these were the values adhered to when Lanvin decided to readdress its menswear lines across the board. Under the watchful eye of artistic director Alber Elbaz, Lanvin’s menswear has been given the stand-talllook-sharp treatment. A job that was apparently more than a little daunting: “This is the fear I felt when the decision was taken five years ago to change the image of Lanvin Man. With the arrival of Lucas Ossendrijver, we took all the Lanvin menswear lines back to the drawing board, from ready-towear to made-to-measure and bespoke. We had to dive in the deep end of a different men’s style without jeopardising the brand’s essential comfort, fine materials, painstaking
56
attention to detail, excellence and restraint. At the edge of the diving board, we were both frightened of the leap and excited by it. And then we jumped…” And jump they did. Lanvin’s ready-to-wear lines have been both refreshed and rejuvenated – broadening its appeal to younger customers. An additional service was created to bridge the gap between ready-to-wear and bespoke in the form of made-to-measure; a service that blends the classism of modern cuts with a customised approach. It provides Lavin ready-to-wear customers with the option of having a suit not only altered, but also adjusted to fit the shape of the individual. This service is perfect for customers who may have a physique that doesn’t necessarily fall into the stereotyped suit sizes, or for someone looking to add little personal touches. This can include the addition of initials, the selection of two or three buttons on a sleeve, the shape of lapels, an open buttonhole, the colour of the lining and, of course, access to the wealth of Lanvin’s fabrics. Made-to-measure customers are given 20 bunches, i.e. 1,200 to 1,500 different fabrics, both
images: sipplied
When a man knows exactly what he wants, he heads to the one place that knows exactly how to give it to him…
57
Above: The remarkable window displays in Lanvin stores in Paris. Above centre: the flagship Lanvin store and workshop on Rue Faubourg Saint -Honoré Centre and Right: Backstage images from the latest Lanvin ready-to-wear collections.
58
permanent and seasonal, to choose from. For those wishing to experience la grande mesure of hand-made excellence, Lanvin’s bespoke service is located on the third floor of 15 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where a workshop is nestled away. Behind the luxury changing rooms and Alber Eraz-designed sofas lies the heart of Lanvin Man creativity. Under the supervision of Lanvin’s master tailor Vito d’Onghia, 12 people work in a silent and measured dedication. A silence that is apparently necessary to “foster the concentration necessary for the cult of the exceptional of which they are the high priests”. Or in other words, “ we need quiet…or we’d make mistakes”, as d’Onghia succinctly puts it. This approach would undoubtedly apply to any bastion of bespoke such as Lanvin whose reputation runs on that which is flawless elegance. It is what Lanvin’s male clients have come to expect: “Bespoke tailoring is a tradition; we started in 1926,” says store manager Alexandre Bernard “Our male clientele has always
been elitist; that’s why they come here. They want this constant tradition, this standard of brilliance, and the complete freedom to ask for what you want.” This can encompass anything from morning coats to dinner jackets and dressing gowns to pyjamas; there’s is no limit to the luxuries that can be custom-made by Lanvin as long as they adhere to the style ethics and reputation of the brand. This can sometimes involve refusing certain of the more eccentric requests, but on the whole, the Lanvin approach involves creating a design and cut that is completely tailored around the customer, rather than working off a base pattern: “It’s not like made-to-measure, where you start with a kit or pattern, for example. It’s completely cut and tailored, constructed for the customer,” Bernard explains. “We choose the fabric according to his needs: does he often visit hot countries? Is he conscientious? Does he want a garment that travels well? Does he take the plane often? Has he got good staff for maintenance – a good 59
Below: Some of Lanvin’s striking artwork from recent campaigns for Lanvin Man Centre and Left: Lanvin’s flagship store houses all aspects of clothing for men
dry-cleaner? His requirements, too; his tastes and habits are important. If he uses a large fountain pen, we can create a special pocket for it. If he wants a hidden pocket, we can make one.” All of this requires the skill of listening, which is of an importance paramount to that of cutting cloth. Lanvin’s male clientele are hand-picked and predictably demanding. Before any measurements are taken, an initial meeting is held away from the busy lower floors of the store, in the hushed haven of privacy on the third floor. Lanvin sales assistants are specially trained to provide a service that is discreet, efficient and restrained; everything a typical Lanvin made-to-measure client would expect. He will be guided through a choice of more than 17,000 suit fabrics and 4,000 shirt fabrics, some of which are 60
in stock, some of which are rotated every six months from such prestigious names as Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, Scabal and Loro Piana. Once the customer’s individual tastes have been identified and catered to, master tailor Vito d’Onghia steps in to take a series of measurements, which will then be translated onto a toile that will be used to fine-tune the garments being created. The toiles are made of horsehair, which is highly durable, and onto which various pieces of fabric are attached with Velcro in order to show the customer the effect and to be able to make alterations to move on to the second fitting. Further tweaks and adjustments will be made before the garment is ready for its final production and assembly by a team of staff who all specialise in different areas: sleeves, jacket fronts, trousers and so on. The
final garment is ready after approximately three to five weeks, at which point all that is required is the look of satisfaction on the client’s face as he wears the item that has been crafted for him and him alone by d’Onghia and his talented team. The story doesn’t end, however, once the customers walks out of the door. Lanvin bespoke carries a lifetime guarantee. But who are these men who demand this kind of impeccable service and whose dedication to impeccable dress is unwavering? “It’s epicureans who fall for the perfect finish, a supple line, a natural cut…Men who, when they look at their jacket collar and see the label marked ‘Lanvin, 15 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris’, and, by hand, their name, the date of their order and a chessboard symbol, know that they have just achieved the last word in elegance.” 61
