ICBI KNitting Sock
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COZY, COMFY, COLORFUL SOCKS —with this book, knitting them by the dozens is INCREDIBLY EASY! Make them cabled or plain, striped or solid, ribbed, lacy, or laddered. Wear them with your favorite clogs, pair them with jeans or skirts, or let them replace your fussy old house shoes. You’ll fly through our helpful hints and photos to create an entire wardrobe of indispensable tootsie-warmers in three sizes. Look for our Extras and General Instructions sections for useful information on yarn, needles, techniques, and terminology. You’ll be thrilled right down to your (pampered) toes when you say,
"I CAN’T BELIEVE I’M KNITTING SOCKS!”
Let’s Get Started There are many options for knitting socks. There are different cast on techniques, choices between double pointed needles and circular needles, and different types of Heels and Toes, not to mention all the yarn choices available. Let’s begin by making a basic sock, using double pointed needles, working the Leg in ribbing and the remainder of the sock in Stockinette Stitch. The instructions are also on page 24 for easy reference. After you learn the basics, you can try the different options for your next pair of socks, and the next pair, and the pair after that! These lessons are written for anyone who knows how to knit and purl—you can turn to the General Instructions to learn how to decrease or anything else that you may not know how to do. If you want to jump right in and make a Sock of your choice, go ahead. Use the instructions for the design you want to make as you follow the Basic Sock lesson. Once you finish your first pair of socks, the fun doesn’t have to stop. Just pick another sock from the project section on pages 28-51, and keep on knitting!
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Circular: Circular needles are available in 12" (30.5 cm) to 47" (119.5 cm) lengths. They consist of two short needles joined by a nylon cable. It pays to invest in good quality needles that have a non-coiling cable and a very smooth join
SIZING First, measure around your ankle. Sock sizing is based on this measurement. When deciding which size to make, consider the fit of a sock. As long as the socks are made from a yarn with elasticity, the fabric will have some give. You want the socks to fit snugly, but not so tight that you’ll have a hard time getting them on or that the stitches are stretched out. The length of the Leg is from the top of the sock to the top of the Heel and can be adjusted. The Foot length can also be adjusted and is measured from the Heel to the Toe. To adjust the Foot length, measure the total length of the foot that will be wearing the socks. Subtract 21/2" (6.5 cm) from the total foot length. Work the Foot to this measurement.
of the needles out to hold a third or a fourth of the stitches and divide the rest onto the other needles.
SLINGSHOT OR LONG TAIL METHOD Pull a length of yarn from the skein, allowing about an inch for each stitch to be cast on. Make a slip knot at this point and slip it onto the needle (this counts as your first stitch). Hold the needle with the slip knot in your right hand with your index finger resting on the slip knot. With the short end of yarn in front, insert your left thumb and index finger between the two yarns hanging from the needle (Fig. 1a) and grab both yarn ends with your other three fingers and hold them in your palm (Fig. 1b). This is the “slingshot.” Fig. 1a
Leg length
Fig. 1b Heel Foot length
Toe
CASTING ON METHODS The cast on needs to be elastic enough to comfortably fit over your instep and heel. If you tend to cast on tightly, you may want to cast on using larger size needles than called for in the instructions. You can also hold two needles together and cast on over both of them. Once all the stitches are on, slide one 3
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Insert the tip of the needle under the outside strand of yarn on your thumb (Fig.1c), bring needle to the nearest strand on your index finger and slip the tip over the strand and between it and your index finger (Fig. 1d), pulling the yarn and needle down through the loop on the thumb (Fig. 1e).
Slip your thumb out of the loop, but don’t let go of the yarn ends you are holding in your palm. Insert your thumb back between the two yarns hanging from the needle, gently pulling to tighten the new stitch on the needle (Fig. 1f). Repeat these steps for each stitch. Fig. 1e
Fig. 1c
Fig. 1d
Fig. 1f
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SOCK Follow the instructions as written to make a solid colored sock. To make one in many colors like ours, make each section in a different color.
LEG
Hold the needles so that they form a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle (Fig. 2b). Be very careful to not twist the cast on ridges around the needle (Fig. 1c). All cast on ridges should lay on the inside of the square. Fig. 2b straight
Fig. 2c twisted
Using the Slingshot method (Figs. 1a-f, pages 3 and 4) or any other stretchy cast on method, cast on 40{48-56} stitches onto one double pointed needle. The stitches need to be divided evenly between four double pointed needles. Slip 10{12-14} stitches onto each of three double pointed needles, leaving 10{12-14} stitches on the fourth needle (Fig. 2a). Fig. 2a Joining Tip: The first stitch should be wrapped so that you’ll have a smooth upper edge and not a stair-step one. Bring the working yarn to the front between the needles; use the empty needle to slip the first stitch as if to purl, then bring the working yarn between the needles to the back, and slip the stitch back onto the first needle (Fig. 2d). Fig. 2d
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Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53). If you have worked in the round with a circular needle, you probably have placed a marker to indicate the beginning of the rounds. The difference here is that you could easily lose a marker from the double pointed needles, so marking the stitch itself is the best way to go.
Working in the round (without turning the work), continue to work in K1, P1 ribbing until Leg measures approximately 51/2{61/2-8}"/ 14{16.5-20.5} cm from cast on edge or 1/2" (1.5 cm) less than desired length to the top of the Heel. Move the marker as you complete each round of ribbing. Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for 1/2" (1.5 cm).
Rnd 1: With the empty needle, (K1, P1) across the stitches on the first needle (Fig. 2e). You have emptied a needle of its stitches; use it to work across the next needle. Fig. 2e
HEEL Remove the marker since it won’t be needed while working the Heel. Working the first stitch of each needle firmly to prevent gaps (Fig. 2f ), (K1, P1) across the remaining three needles to complete Rnd 1.
Dividing Stitches: In order to have the beginning of the round at the center back, you’ll work across the first needle only.
Fig. 2f
Knit across the first needle; slip the stitches from the next two needles onto two separate stitch holders (slipping as if to purl) for the Instep that will be worked later; turn the work. Tip: If your needles aren’t too slippery and it doesn’t scare you to have two needles just hanging there, you can leave the stitches on the needles, ready to work the Instep later. Place point protectors on the ends to keep the stitches from slipping off. Or, you can place the stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.
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SLIPPING STITCHES The first stitch of every row on the Heel will be slipped. You simply transfer it from the left needle to the right needle, holding the working yarn on the wrong side of the work, so that it won’t show – without knitting or purling it. If the slipped stitch will not be used in a decrease, as on the Heel Turning, you can prevent twisted stitches by slipping as if to purl (Fig. 3a). Otherwise, slip as if to knit (Fig. 3b). Fig. 3a
You now have 20{24-28} stitches on one needle and they are centered at the back of the Sock. Row 2 (Right side): Slip 1 (as if to purl), knit across. Row 3: Slip 1 (as if to purl), purl across. Rows 4 thru 19{21-25}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 8{9-11} times. The slipped stitches form an edge of elongated stitches that look like a chain. When it’s time to make the Gusset, you will work in these stitches. COMPLETED HEEL FLAP
Fig. 3b
HEEL FLAP The Heel will be worked in rows using two double pointed needles. Row 1: Slip 1 (as if to purl), purl across the needle and across the next needle.
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TURNING THE HEEL Short rows are formed by only working across some of the stitches on the left needle before turning. This shapes and turns the Heel. Tip: When learning a new technique such as short rows, try to be in a quiet place where you won’t have any interruptions.
Second Size (7 3/4") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn. Third Size (9") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Begin working short rows as follows: Row 10: Slip 1, P 13, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 1: Slip 1, K 11{13-15}, K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K1, leave remaining 5{7-9} stitches unworked; turn.
Row 11: Slip 1, K 14, K2 tog; turn. Row 12: Slip 1, P 14, P2 tog; turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 5{7-9} stitches unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn.
All Sizes: All of the stitches have now been used and 12{14-16} stitches remain on needle; do not cut yarn.
The decrease at the end of each row uses the slipped stitch from the previous row and a stitch that was left unworked on the first or second row (Fig. 4). Fig. 4
GUSSET It’s time to use the Instep stitches that were set aside and start working in rounds again. You will also pick up stitches along both edges of the Heel.
Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Slip the Instep stitches from the stitch holders onto two double pointed needles, placing 10{12-14} stitches on each needle.
Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K0{1-1} (see Zeros, page 53); turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 10{11-11}, P2 tog, P0{1-1}; turn. 9
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FOUNDATION ROUND With the right side of the Heel facing you, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{7-8} of the Heel stitches. Place a split-ring marker around the next stitch to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{7-8} Heel stitches. With the same needle, pick up 10{11-13} stitches along the side of the Heel Flap working under both strands of the slipped stitches (Fig. 21a, page 55). Pick up one stitch in the corner, working into the center of a stitch, rather than under the running yarn between stitches (Fig. 21b, page 55). This will help prevent a hole at the corner. With separate needles, knit across the Instep stitches (Needles 2 and 3). With an empty needle, pick up one stitch in the corner and 10{11-13} stitches along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{7-8} Heel stitches (Needle 4).
GUSSET DECREASES The total number of stitches for the Foot is equal to the number you cast on for the Leg. You will work decreases at the bottom corners of the Heel Flap until you have the same number of stitches on each needle (10, 12, or 14 stitches, depending on the size being made). Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): On Needle 1, knit across to the last 3 stitches, K2 tog, K1; knit across Needles 2 and 3; on Needle 4, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 52{60-70} sts. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 40{48-56} sts, 10{12-14} stitches on each needle.
The stitch count for the Foundation Round is 17{19-22} stitches on Needle 1, 10{12-14} stitches on Needles 2 and 3, and 17{19-22} stitches on Needle 4 for a total of 54{62-72} sts.
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FOOT Knit every round until Foot Length measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5).
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Fig. 5
Rnds 8-11: Knit around. Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 13-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Second Size (7 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts. Foot Length
Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts.
Tip: Feet come in every length and so can your socks. To adjust the foot length, just knit to within 21/2" (6.5 cm) of the total length of your foot (or whosever foot you are knitting for!) before starting the toe.
Rnds 9-13: Knit around. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around.
TOE You’re almost finished with your sock. All that’s left are the toe decreases. You’ll alternate working decrease rounds and even rounds until you have 8 stitches on each needle.
Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 20-22: Knit around. Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
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Third Size (9") Only Rnd 1: (K5, K2 tog) 8 times: 48 sts. Rnds 2-8: Knit around.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining stitches onto tapestry needle (Fig. 6); gather tightly and secure.
Rnd 9: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts. Fig. 6 Rnds 10-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 17-21: Knit around. Rnd 22: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 23-26: Knit around. Rnd 27: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 28-30: Knit around. Rnd 31: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
CONGRATULATIONS!!! You’ve made your very first sock. It wasn’t so bad, now was it? It’s a good idea to start its twin while you’re on a roll. That way your project will be ready to take along the next time you need a small travel project. Now that you’re a sock maker, you can follow the condensed instructions on page 24 for the second one.
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Slide those stitches just worked onto the cable, then move the cast on stitches still on the cable onto the left-hand needle point. Keeping the cable looped to the side, turn the work so that the stitches on the cable are behind the cast on stitches and work across the cast on stitches (Fig. 7d).
ADAPTING PATTERN TO NEEDLES Most sock patterns are written with using double pointed needles in mind, but with a little adjusting, you can follow a pattern using one circular needle. After casting on the stitches, complete the Leg as written.
Fig. 7d Since your stitches are already divided in half, skip the Dividing Stitches and begin the Heel Flap with Row 1. Let the Instep stitches hang out on the cable as you compete the Heel through the Turning. After completing the Heel Turning, you need to adjust the position of the stitches on the cable before beginning the Foundation Round. To do this, pull the excess loop between the center stitches of the Instep group.
Work each round in this manner, slipping the half of the stitches to be worked in place onto the needle point and keeping the other half waiting on the cable. Keep the excess of the cable pulled in a loop to the side. When moving from one set of stitches to the next, be careful to keep an even tension on the working yarn, so that the last stitch worked doesn’t get pulled tight around the cable or be so loose that it forms a hole. If the stitches don’t easily slide back onto the needle point or they slide much too easily, adjust your tension.
The Foundation Round would be then worked as follows: For the first set of stitches, you knit across the Heel stitches, pick up stitches for the left-hand side of the Gusset, place a marker, then work across half of the Instep stitches to the loop. Slide all these stitches onto the cable and move the remaining stitches to the left-hand needle point. Knit across the remaining Instep stitches, place a marker, then pick up stitches for the right-hand side of the Gusset. At the end of the round, you will see that your sock is placed on the needle in a basically “profile” mode. Work the Gusset decreases between the markers on the following rounds. Reposition the stitches after the last Gusset round so that once again half of the stitches are on each side of the excess loop with all the stitches between the markers as the first half; remove markers. Complete the Foot and Toe as written.
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TWO CIRCULAR NEEDLES This method is another alternative to working with the stitches divided on four double pointed needles. Instead, the stitches are divided on two circular needles. Each needle is used independently of the other. While you are knitting across the first half of stitches with the other end of the same needle, the second needle will hang out of the way with the stitches at the center of the cable. Then, you will pick up both ends of the second needle and work across it while the first needle hangs. The best way to master this method is to jump right in and try it. You will need two circular needles (both the same size). They can both be 16" (40.5 cm) or 24" (61 cm) or one of each length so you can easily tell the needles apart. In the photos, we used two different 24" (61 cm) size 4 circular needles.
Cast on all of the stitches for a pattern onto one circular needle. Slip the second half of the cast on stitches onto the second circular needle and place them at the center of the cable. Push the stitches on the first needle to the tip at the opposite end (Fig. 8a). Fig. 8a
Place a marker around any stitch to mark the first needle. Move the first needle so that it’s in front of and parallel to the cable of the second needle (Fig. 8b). Fig. 8b
Holding both needles in your left hand, straighten your stitches so that they’re not twisted around the needles. Using the opposite end of the same needle, work across the stitches on the first needle following the instructions for the Sock of your choice (Fig. 8c). Slide the stitches to the center of the cable and turn your work. Slide the stitches that are on the second needle from the cable to the points and continue working the pattern. Fig. 8c
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When moving from one needle to the next, be careful to keep an even tension on the working yarn, so that the last stitch worked doesn’t get pulled tight around the cable or be so loose that it forms a hole. If the stitches don’t easily slide back onto the needle point or they slide much too easily, adjust your tension.
HEELS Our projects are written for a basic Heel Flap and the round Turning Heel, but there are many other choices.
HEEL FLAP For a more durable heel try the following two variations. Remember, when working the Heel Flap, slip stitches as if to purl.
ADAPTING PATTERN TO NEEDLES Most sock patterns are written with using double pointed needles in mind, but with a little adjusting, you can follow a pattern using two circular needles.
VARIATION 1 Row 1 (Right side): (Slip 1, K1) across.
After casting on the stitches, complete the Leg as written.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, for Heel pattern.
Since your stitches are already divided in half, skip the Dividing Stitches and begin the Heel Flap with Row 1. Let the Instep stitches hang out on the second needle cable as you compete the Heel Turning. The Foundation Round would be then worked as follows: Knit across half of the Heel stitches and place them on a stitch holder or a piece of scrap yarn. Knit across the remaining half of the Heel stitches. Pick up stitches for the lefthand side of the Gusset and place a marker. With the same needle, knit across half of the Instep stitches. With the second needle, knit across the remaining Instep stitches and place a marker. Pick up stitches for the right-hand side of the Gusset. Slip the Heel stitches from the stitch holder onto the left-hand needle point and knit across. At the end of the round, you will see that your sock is placed on the needles in “profile” mode.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl across.
VARIATION 2 Row 1 (Right side): (Slip 1, K1) across. Row 2: (Slip 1, P1) across. Repeat Rows 1 and 2, for Heel pattern.
SQUARE TURNING HEEL The Square Heel is worked in short rows the same as the conventional Heel, but it’s more of a box shape than a tapered shape. On the first row, knit across 2/3 of the stitches working a SSK decrease with the last stitch of the group and the next stitch. On the next row, purl across 1/3 of the stitches working a P2 tog decrease with the last stitch of the group and the next stitch, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. On the following rows, work in Stockinette Stitch across the center third of the stitches (always the same number), then decrease with the last stitch and the next unworked stitch until all of the unworked stitches have been used.
Work the Gusset decreases between the markers on the following rounds. Reposition the stitches after the last Gusset round so that once again the instep and the Heel stitches are on the needle they started on. Complete the Foot and Toe as written.
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For example, if the Heel has 24 sts: Row 1: K 15, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), leave remaining 7 stitches unworked; turn. Row 2: P7, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55); turn.
TOE SHAPING Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): On first needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54) knit across; on second needle, knit across to the last 3 sts, K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K1; on third needle, K1, SSK, knit across; on fourth needle, knit across to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1: 4 stitches decreased.
Row 3: K7, SSK; turn. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rows 4-16: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 6 times; then repeat Row 2 once more: 8 stitches.
TOE ALTERNATIVES GRAFTING
If you prefer a rounded toe rather than a slightly pointed one, you might want to consider grafting your socks together at the toe. Grafting, also known as Kitchener Stitch, is a way of joining the Toe together horizontally without a seam. The stitches are woven directly from the needles using a tapestry needle. The yarn forms a knit row between the stitches on the needles.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, until there are about 4 to 7 stitches left on each needle. Slip half the stitches from the middle needles to each of the other needles, so there are the same amount on the first and last needles.
HOW TO GRAFT Either hold both needles in your left hand with wrong sides together (Fig. 9a), or lay both pieces on a table with the right sides facing you (Fig. 9b). Fig. 9a
To graft, both edges must have the same number of stitches. Instead of working the Toe Shaping as given, you will need to work an alternative shaping. Work the Foot until desired measurement to Toe, then work the following Toe shaping.
Fig. 9b
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Cut the yarn on the front piece leaving a long end and thread a tapestry needle with this end. Work in the following sequence, pulling yarn through as if to knit or as if to purl with an even tension and keeping the yarn below the points of the needles to avoid tangling.
Step 3: Knit first stitch on front needle, slip the stitch off the needle (Fig. 9e). Fig. 9e
Step 1: Purl first stitch on front needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9c). Fig. 9c
Step 4: Purl the next stitch on front needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9f). Fig. 9f
Step 2: Knit first stitch on back needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9d). Fig. 9d
Step 5: Purl first stitch on back needle, slip the stitch off the needle (Fig. 9g). Fig. 9g
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Step 6: Knit next stitch on back needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9h). Fig. 9h
With the yarn to the back, slip the next stitch as if to purl, bring the yarn to the front and slip the same stitch back onto the left needle (Fig. 10a). Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Fig. 10a
Repeat Steps 3-6 across (Fig. 9i) until all stitches are worked off the needles, then secure the end. Fig. 9i
On the following rows, when meeting the wrapped stitch, knit or purl the wrap and the stitch it wraps together (Figs. 10b & c). Fig. 10b
SHORT ROWS & WRAPPING STITCHES The Heel Turning section is worked in short rows, only working across some of the stitches. Sometimes a hole is formed when you turn the work. In order to prevent this gap, you can wrap the yarn around the first unworked stitch before turning.
Fig.10c
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Tip: If you have loose stitches or holes along your picked up edge, try knitting the first row working in the back loops (Fig. 11). This will twist your stitches, making them tighter and eliminating holes. Fig. 11 back loop
front loop
Twisted Stitches
STRIPED SOCK JOININGS Even though you are knitting circularly, when you change colors, you will notice that there’s a stair-step at the end of the round. To rid your stripe of that jog is a simple thing. When beginning a new round, insert the tip of the right needle into the loop of the stitch below the first stitch. Lift the loop of this old color stitch up onto the left needle and knit the first stitch and the loop together with the new color. Tug on the old yarn end and the jog will disappear. The only downside to this method is that every time you use it, the beginning of the round moves over one stitch, so that it is not practical to use on one round stripes.
Tip: If you want to knit someone a pair of socks, but don’t want them to know what you are up to, ask to measure them from their wrist to their elbow. This measurement corresponds to most people’s foot length. They may think that you are knitting them a sweater!
TUBE SOCKS Tube socks are wonderful gifts for toddlers or little kids. Simply extend the Leg rounds to include the length of the Foot, then work the Toe. The kiddies can put them on or take them off by themselves. And, because the same side isn’t always on bottom, the socks will wear longer.
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SOCK (Make 2)
TURNING HEEL Begin working short rows as follows:
LEG
Cast on 40{48-56} sts. Slip 10{12-14} sts onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 10{12-14} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7). Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle.
Row 1: Slip 1, K 11{13-15}, K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K1, leave remaining 5{7-9} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 5{7-9} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53).
Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Rnd 1: (K1, P1) around. Repeat Rnd 1 for ribbing until Leg measures approximately 51/2{61/2-8}"/14{16.5-20.5} cm from cast on edge or 1/2" (1.5 cm) less than desired length to heel. 1
Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for /2" (1.5 cm).
Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K0{1-1} (see Zeros, page 53); turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 10{11-11}, P2 tog, P0{1-1}; turn. Second Size (7 3/4") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn.
HEEL Dividing Stitches: Remove marker; knit across first needle; slip sts from the next 2 needles onto 2 separate st holders or scrap yarn for Instep to be worked later; turn.
Third Size (9") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog, K1; turn.
HEEL FLAP Row 1: Slip 1, P 19{23-27} all onto same needle.
Row 11: Slip 1, K 14, K2 tog; turn.
The Heel Flap will be worked back and forth across these 20{24-28} sts.
All Sizes: 12{14-16} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
Row 10: Slip 1, P 13, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Row 12: Slip 1, P 14, P2 tog; turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, knit across. Row 3: Slip 1, purl across. Rows 4 thru 19{21-25}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 8{9-11} times.
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GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds. Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles, 10{12-14} sts each. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{7-8} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{7-8} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 10{11-13} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55).
GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 52{60-70} sts. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 40{48-56} sts, 10{12-14} sts on each needle.
FOOT Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3).
TOE With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 10{11-13} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{7-8} Heel sts (Needle 4).
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts.
Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 17{19-22} sts on first needle, 10{12-14} sts on second and third needles, and 17{19-22} sts on fourth needle for a total of 54{62-72} sts.
Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Rnds 2-6: Knit around.
Rnds 8-11: Knit around.
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Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts.
Rnd 9: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts.
Rnds 13-15: Knit around.
Rnds 10-15: Knit around.
Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
Rnd 16: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts.
Second Size (7 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts.
Rnds 17-21: Knit around. Rnd 22: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnds 23-26: Knit around. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnd 27: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 9-13: Knit around. Rnds 28-30: Knit around. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnd 31: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 20-22: Knit around.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end.
Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Third Size (9") Only Rnd 1: (K5, K2 tog) 8 times: 48 sts. Rnds 2-8: Knit around.
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SOCK (Make 2)
Rnds 1-5: (K2, P2) around.
Cast on 40{48-56} sts.
Rnds 6-10: (P2, K2) around.
Slip 10{12-14} sts onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 10{12-14} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7).
Repeat Rnds 1-10 for Syncopated Rib pattern until Leg measures approximately 51/2{61/2-8}"/ 14{16.5-20.5} cm from cast on edge or 1/2" (1.5 cm) less than desired length to heel, ending by working Rnd 5 or Rnd 10.
LEG
Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53).
Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for 1/2" (1.5 cm). Beginning with Heel, complete same as Basic Sock, page 24.
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When instructed to slip a stitch, slip as if to purl with yarn held to wrong side unless otherwise indicated (Fig. 3a, page 8).
Fig. 12
SOCK (Make 2) GARTER TOP
Leaving a long end for sewing, cast on 16 sts. Row 1 (Right side): Knit across. Note: Place a split-ring marker around any stitch to mark Row 1 as right side. Row 2: K2, YO (Fig. 14, page 53), K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K 11, P1.
Dividing Stitches: With right side facing. slip 9{10-12} stitches onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 9{10-12} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7).
Row 3: Slip 1, K 12, YO, K2 tog, K1. Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 34{38-46} times; then repeat Row 2 once more for Garter Top pattern. Bind off all sts in knit leaving last st on needle (counts as first st of Leg); do not cut yarn. There will be 35{39-47} slipped stitches along one side edge plus one stitch still on the needle.
LEG With right side facing and continuing with the working yarn, pick up stitches along edge of Garter Top to form a decorative ridge on the right side as follows: insert the needle from the back to the front under two strands of a slipped stitch (Fig. 12). Put the yarn around the needle as if to purl, then bring the needle with the yarn back through the stitch to the wrong side, resulting in a stitch on the needle. Repeat this along the edge, picking up a stitch in each slipped stitch: 36{40-48} sts.
The Leg will be worked in rounds. Hold the needles forming a square with the decorative ridge facing toward the outside and the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53). Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) until Leg measures approximately 6{7-81/2}"/15{18-21.5} cm from top edge of Sock or to desired length to heel.
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HEEL Dividing Stitches: Remove marker; knit across first needle; slip sts from the next 2 needles onto 2 separate st holders or scrap yarn for Instep to be worked later; turn.
Third Size (8 3/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn.
HEEL FLAP Row 1: Slip 1, P 17{19-23} all onto same needle. The Heel Flap will be worked back and forth across these 18{20-24} sts. Row 2: Slip 1, knit across.
Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn. All Sizes: 12{12-14} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds.
Row 3: Slip 1, purl across. Rows 4 thru 17{19-23}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 7{8-10} times. TURNING HEEL Begin working short rows as follows: Row 1: Slip 1, K 10{11-13}, K2 tog, K1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles, 9{10-12} sts on each needle. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{6-7} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{6-7} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55).
Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Second Size (7 1/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 10, P2 tog; turn.
With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3). With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{6-7} Heel sts (Needle 4). Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 16{17-20} sts on first needle, 9{10-12} sts on second and third needles, and 16{17-20} sts on fourth needle for a total of 50{54-64} sts.
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GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 48{52-62} sts. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 36{40-48} sts, 9{10-12} sts on each needle.
Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 13-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Third Size (8 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts. Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 9-13: Knit around.
FOOT Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts.
TOE
Rnds 20-22: Knit around.
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K2, K2 tog) 9 times: 27 sts.
Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
Rnds 2-5: Knit around. Rnd 6: (K1, K2 tog) 9 times: 18 sts. Rnds 7-9: Knit around. Rnd 10: K2 tog 9 times: 9 sts.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end. Sew the cast on and the bound off edges of the Garter Top together.
Second Size (7 1/4") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 8-11: Knit around.
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When instructed to slip a stitch, slip as if to purl with yarn held to wrong side unless otherwise indicated (Fig. 3a, page 8).
STITCH GUIDE RIGHT TWIST (abbreviated RT) Insert right needle into the front loop of the second stitch on the left needle as if to knit (Fig. 13a). Wrap the yarn knitwise and draw it through. Do not slip the stitch off the needle. Knit the first stitch (Fig. 13b), letting both stitches drop off the left needle. Fig. 13a
SOCK (Make 2) LEG
Cast on 36{40-48} sts. Divide sts onto 4 needles as follows (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7): 8{10-12} sts on first needle, 10{10-12} sts on second needle, 8{10-12} sts on third needle, and 10{10-12} sts on fourth needle. Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53). Rnds 1-5: (K2, P2) around. Rnd 6: (RT, P2) around. Rnds 7 thru 32{44-50}: Repeat Rnds 1-6 for Baby Cables pattern, 4{6-7} times; then repeat Rnds 1 and 2 once more.
Fig. 13b
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rearrange sts so there are 9 sts on each needle. All Sizes: Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) until Leg measures approximately 53/4{7-81/2}"/ 14.5{18-21.5} cm from cast on edge or desired length to heel.
Beginning with Heel, complete same as Garter Top Socks, page 30.
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TURNING HEEL
GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds.
Begin working short rows as follows: Row 1: Slip 1, K 10{11-13}, K2 tog, K1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Second Size (7 1/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog; turn.
Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{6-7} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{6-7} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55). With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3).
Row 8: Slip 1, P 10, P2 tog; turn. Third Size (9") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn.
With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{6-7} Heel sts (Needle 4).
Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn. All Sizes: 12{12-14} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 16{17-20} sts on first needle, 8{10-13} sts on second needle, 9{10-13} sts on third needle, and 16{17-20} sts on fourth needle for a total of 49{54-66} sts. GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK, knit across: 47{52-64} sts.
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Rnd 2: Knit around.
Rnds 8-11: Knit around.
Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 35{40-50} sts.
Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 13-15: Knit around.
FOOT
Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
Third Size (9") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 10 times: 40 sts. Rnds 2-7: Knit around.
TOE First Size (6 1/4") Only Rnd 1: K3, (K2 tog, K2) 8 times: 27 sts.
Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 9-13: Knit around.
Rnds 2-5: Knit around. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnd 6: (K1, K2 tog) 9 times: 18 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnds 7-9: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnd 10: K2 tog 9 times: 9 sts. Rnds 20-22: Knit around. Second Size (7 1/4") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end.
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SOCK (Make 2) LEG
Tip: Due to the pattern multiple and the make ones and decreases, this design might be easier to work with circular needle(s) than with double pointed needles (see Needle Methods, pages 13-16). Cast on 36{48-60} sts. Slip 9{12-15} sts onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 9{12-15} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7).
HEEL Dividing Stitches: Remove marker; knit across first needle; slip sts from the next 2 needles onto 2 separate st holders or scrap yarn for Instep to be worked later; turn. HEEL FLAP Row 1: Slip 1, P 17{23-29} all onto same needle. The Heel Flap will be worked back and forth across these 18{24-30} sts. Row 2: Slip 1, knit across.
Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53).
Row 3: Slip 1, purl across. Rows 4 thru 17{23-29}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 7{10-13} times. TURNING HEEL Begin working short rows as follows:
Rnds 1-12: (K1, P1) around. Rnd 13: Knit around. Note: When you work the Make One, be sure to work in the front of the lifted strand as the hole is part of the design.
Row 1: Slip 1, K 10{13-16}, K2 tog, K1, leave remaining 4{7-10} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 4{7-10} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Rnd 14: H K1, M1 (Fig. 15, page 53), K4, [slip 1 as if to knit, K2 tog, PSSO (Figs. 18a & b, page 54)], K4, M1; repeat from H around.
Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Repeat Rnds 13 and 14 for Chevron pattern until Leg measures approximately 5{6-71/2}"/ 12.5{15-19} cm from cast on edge or 1" (2.5 cm) less than desired length to heel. Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for 1" (2.5 cm).
Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Second Size (7 3/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn.
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Third Size (9 1/2") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 13, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 11: Slip 1, K 14, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 15{19-24} sts on first needle, 9{12-15} sts on second and third needles, and 15{19-24} sts on fourth needle for a total of 48{62-78} sts. GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 46{60-76} sts.
Row 12: Slip 1, P 15, P2 tog, P1; turn. Rnd 2: Knit around. All Sizes: 12{14-18} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
Rnds 3 thru 12{14-18}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 5{6-8} times: 36{48-60} sts, 9{12-15} sts on each needle.
GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds.
FOOT Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles, placing 9{12-15} sts on each one. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{7-9} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{7-9} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 8{11-14} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55).
Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
TOE First Size (5 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 7 times, K1: 29 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 7 times, K1: 22 sts. Rnds 8-11: Knit around. Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 7 times, K1: 15 sts.
With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3). With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 8{11-14} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{7-9} Heel sts (Needle 4).
Rnds 13-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: K2 tog 7 times, K1: 8 sts.
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Second Size (7 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts.
Rnd 22: (K2, K2 tog) 9 times: 27 sts. Rnds 23-26: Knit around.
Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnd 27: (K1, K2 tog) 9 times: 18 sts. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 28-30: Knit around. Rnds 9-13: Knit around. Rnd 31: K2 tog 9 times: 9 sts. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end.
Rnds 20-22: Knit around. Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Third Size (9 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K8, K2 tog) 6 times: 54 sts. Rnds 2-8: Knit around. Rnd 9: (K4, K2 tog) 9 times: 45 sts. Rnds 10-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: (K3, K2 tog) 9 times: 36 sts. Rnds 17-21: Knit around.
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KNIT TERMINOLOGY UNITED STATES INTERNATIONAL gauge = tension bind off = cast off yarn over (YO) = yarn forward (yfwd) or yarn around needle (yrn)
Yarn Weight Symbol & Names Type of Yarns in Category
Sock, Fingering Baby
Sport, Baby
DK, Light Worsted
Worsted, Afghan, Aran
Chunky, Craft, Rug
Bulky, Roving
Knit Gauge Ranges in Stockinette St to 4" (10 cm)
27-32 sts
23-26 sts
21-24 sts
16-20 sts
12-15 sts
6-11 sts
Advised Needle Size Range
1-3
3-5
5-7
7-9
9-11
11 and larger
KNITTING NEEDLES U.S.
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
101/2
11
13
15
17
U.K.
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
00
000
---
2
2.25
2.75
3.25
3.5
3.75
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
8
9
10
12.75
Metric - mm
Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal shaping. Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing. Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace, simple intarsia, double-pointed needles and knitting in the round needle techniques, mid-level shaping and finishing. Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows, fair isle, more intricate intarsia, cables, lace patterns, and numerous color changes.
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ZEROS
MAKE ONE (abbreviated M1)
To consolidate the length of an involved pattern, zeros are sometimes used so that all sizes can be combined. For example, K0{1-1} means the first size would do nothing, the second and third sizes would knit one.
Insert the left needle from the front under the horizontal strand between the stitches (Fig. 15). Then knit into the front of the strand. This will create a hole and will be part of the pattern.
MARKERS As a convenience to you, we have used markers to help distinguish the beginning of a round and to mark placement for decreases. Place markers as instructed. When using double pointed needles and marking the beginning of a round, a splitring marker is placed around the first stitch to prevent the marker from slipping off the needle. When you reach the marker, move it to the new stitch after it has been made. When marking placement for decreases or using circular needles, you may use split-ring markers or tie a length of contrasting color yarn around the needle. When you reach a marker, move it from the left needle to the right needle; remove it when no longer needed.
Fig. 15
KNIT 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated K2 tog)
Insert the right needle into the front of the first two stitches on the left needle as if to knit (Fig. 16), then knit them together as if they were one stitch. Fig. 16
YARN OVER (abbreviated YO) Bring the yarn forward between the needles, then back over the top of the right hand needle, so that it is now in position to knit the next stitch (Fig. 14). On the following round, treat the YO as a stitch. Fig. 14
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SLIP, SLIP, KNIT
SLIP 1, KNIT 2 TOGETHER, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER
(abbreviated SSK)
With yarn in back of work, separately slip two stitches as if to knit (Fig. 17a). Insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches (Fig. 17b) and knit them together as if they were one stitch (Fig. 17c). Fig. 17a
(abbreviated slip 1, K2 tog, PSSO)
Slip one stitch as if to knit (Fig. 18a), then knit the next two stitches together (Fig. 16, page 53). With the left needle, bring the slipped stitch over the stitch just made (Fig. 18b) and off the needle.
Fig. 17b Fig. 18a
Fig. 18b
Fig. 17c
SLIP 2, KNIT 1, PASS 2 SLIPPED STITCHES OVER (abbreviated slip 2 as if to knit, K1, P2SSO)
With yarn in back, separately slip two stitches as if to knit (Fig. 19a), then knit the next stitch. With the left needle, bring both slipped stitches over the knit stitch (Fig. 19b) and off the needle. Fig. 19a
Fig. 19b
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PURL 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated P2 tog)
Insert the right needle into the front of the first two stitches on the left needle as if to purl (Fig. 20), then purl them together as if they were one stitch.
Repeat this along the edge, picking up and knitting the required number of stitches. Pick up a stitch in the corner of the Heel by inserting the needle into the center of the stitch (Fig. 21b). A crochet hook may be helpful to pull yarn through.
Fig. 20 Fig. 21b
PICKING UP STITCHES When instructed to pick up stitches, insert the needle from the front to the back under two strands of the slipped stitches at the edge of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a). Put the yarn around the needle as if to knit, then bring the needle with the yarn back through the stitch to the right side, resulting in a stitch on the needle. Fig. 21a
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YARN INFORMATION Socks in this leaflet were made using Light or Super Fine Weight Yarn. Any brand of the same weight yarn may be used. It is best to refer to the yardage/meters when determining how many balls or skeins to purchase. Remember, to arrive at the finished size, it is the GAUGE/TENSION that is important, not the brand of yarn. For your convenience, listed below are the specific yarns used to create our photography models.
BASIC SOCKS Patons® Astra #02895 Lip Pink #02941 School Bus Yellow #08317 Hot Lilac #08416 Hot Pink #08712 Hot Green #08742 Hot Blue BABY CABLES SOCKS Moda Dea™ Sassy Stripes™ #6930 Stormy GARTER TOP SOCKS Moda Dea™ Sassy Stripes™ #6946 Crush OPENWORK LADDER SOCKS Moda Dea™ Sassy Stripes™ #6952 Swish SYNCOPATED RIB SOCKS Lion Brand® Magic Stripes #201 Denim Stripe
BASIC CHEVRON SOCKS Lion Brand® Magic Stripes #200 Jelly Bean Stripe PURL BARRED CHEVRON SOCKS Lion Brand® Magic Stripes #207 Regatta Blue Stripe EYELET CHEVRON SOCKS Patons® Kroy Socks #54801 Krazy Stripes CREST O’ THE WAVE SOCKS Patons® Kroy Socks Main Color - #54603 Crayon Jacquard Contrasting Color - #54727 Retro Red (color is no longer available) LITTLE ARROWHEAD LACE SOCKS Patons® Kroy Socks #54744 Pink Power (color is no longer available)
PRODUCTION TEAM: Technical Editor - Cathy Hardy Contributing Editors - Elizabeth Field, Katie Galucki, Sarah J. Green, and Mary Hutcheson Editorial Writer - Susan McManus Johnson
Graphic Artist - Ashley Carozza Senior Graphic Artist - Chaska Richardson Lucas Photo Stylist - Christy Meyers Photographer - Jerry Davis
We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work. ©2007 by Leisure Arts, Inc., 5701 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, AR 72223. All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution of this publication or any other Leisure Arts publication, including publications which are out of print, is prohibited unless specifically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning, or e-mail transmission.
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ISBN-10: 1-60140-250-3 ISBN-13: 978-1-60140-250-9
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COZY, COMFY, COLORFUL SOCKS —with this book, knitting them by the dozens is INCREDIBLY EASY! Make them cabled or plain, striped or solid, ribbed, lacy, or laddered. Wear them with your favorite clogs, pair them with jeans or skirts, or let them replace your fussy old house shoes. You’ll fly through our helpful hints and photos to create an entire wardrobe of indispensable tootsie-warmers in three sizes. Look for our Extras and General Instructions sections for useful information on yarn, needles, techniques, and terminology. You’ll be thrilled right down to your (pampered) toes when you say,
"I CAN’T BELIEVE I’M KNITTING SOCKS!”
Let’s Get Started There are many options for knitting socks. There are different cast on techniques, choices between double pointed needles and circular needles, and different types of Heels and Toes, not to mention all the yarn choices available. Let’s begin by making a basic sock, using double pointed needles, working the Leg in ribbing and the remainder of the sock in Stockinette Stitch. The instructions are also on page 24 for easy reference. After you learn the basics, you can try the different options for your next pair of socks, and the next pair, and the pair after that! These lessons are written for anyone who knows how to knit and purl—you can turn to the General Instructions to learn how to decrease or anything else that you may not know how to do. If you want to jump right in and make a Sock of your choice, go ahead. Use the instructions for the design you want to make as you follow the Basic Sock lesson. Once you finish your first pair of socks, the fun doesn’t have to stop. Just pick another sock from the project section on pages 28-51, and keep on knitting!
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Circular: Circular needles are available in 12" (30.5 cm) to 47" (119.5 cm) lengths. They consist of two short needles joined by a nylon cable. It pays to invest in good quality needles that have a non-coiling cable and a very smooth join
SIZING First, measure around your ankle. Sock sizing is based on this measurement. When deciding which size to make, consider the fit of a sock. As long as the socks are made from a yarn with elasticity, the fabric will have some give. You want the socks to fit snugly, but not so tight that you’ll have a hard time getting them on or that the stitches are stretched out. The length of the Leg is from the top of the sock to the top of the Heel and can be adjusted. The Foot length can also be adjusted and is measured from the Heel to the Toe. To adjust the Foot length, measure the total length of the foot that will be wearing the socks. Subtract 21/2" (6.5 cm) from the total foot length. Work the Foot to this measurement.
of the needles out to hold a third or a fourth of the stitches and divide the rest onto the other needles.
SLINGSHOT OR LONG TAIL METHOD Pull a length of yarn from the skein, allowing about an inch for each stitch to be cast on. Make a slip knot at this point and slip it onto the needle (this counts as your first stitch). Hold the needle with the slip knot in your right hand with your index finger resting on the slip knot. With the short end of yarn in front, insert your left thumb and index finger between the two yarns hanging from the needle (Fig. 1a) and grab both yarn ends with your other three fingers and hold them in your palm (Fig. 1b). This is the “slingshot.” Fig. 1a
Leg length
Fig. 1b Heel Foot length
Toe
CASTING ON METHODS The cast on needs to be elastic enough to comfortably fit over your instep and heel. If you tend to cast on tightly, you may want to cast on using larger size needles than called for in the instructions. You can also hold two needles together and cast on over both of them. Once all the stitches are on, slide one 3
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Insert the tip of the needle under the outside strand of yarn on your thumb (Fig.1c), bring needle to the nearest strand on your index finger and slip the tip over the strand and between it and your index finger (Fig. 1d), pulling the yarn and needle down through the loop on the thumb (Fig. 1e).
Slip your thumb out of the loop, but don’t let go of the yarn ends you are holding in your palm. Insert your thumb back between the two yarns hanging from the needle, gently pulling to tighten the new stitch on the needle (Fig. 1f). Repeat these steps for each stitch. Fig. 1e
Fig. 1c
Fig. 1d
Fig. 1f
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SOCK Follow the instructions as written to make a solid colored sock. To make one in many colors like ours, make each section in a different color.
LEG
Hold the needles so that they form a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle (Fig. 2b). Be very careful to not twist the cast on ridges around the needle (Fig. 1c). All cast on ridges should lay on the inside of the square. Fig. 2b straight
Fig. 2c twisted
Using the Slingshot method (Figs. 1a-f, pages 3 and 4) or any other stretchy cast on method, cast on 40{48-56} stitches onto one double pointed needle. The stitches need to be divided evenly between four double pointed needles. Slip 10{12-14} stitches onto each of three double pointed needles, leaving 10{12-14} stitches on the fourth needle (Fig. 2a). Fig. 2a Joining Tip: The first stitch should be wrapped so that you’ll have a smooth upper edge and not a stair-step one. Bring the working yarn to the front between the needles; use the empty needle to slip the first stitch as if to purl, then bring the working yarn between the needles to the back, and slip the stitch back onto the first needle (Fig. 2d). Fig. 2d
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Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53). If you have worked in the round with a circular needle, you probably have placed a marker to indicate the beginning of the rounds. The difference here is that you could easily lose a marker from the double pointed needles, so marking the stitch itself is the best way to go.
Working in the round (without turning the work), continue to work in K1, P1 ribbing until Leg measures approximately 51/2{61/2-8}"/ 14{16.5-20.5} cm from cast on edge or 1/2" (1.5 cm) less than desired length to the top of the Heel. Move the marker as you complete each round of ribbing. Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for 1/2" (1.5 cm).
Rnd 1: With the empty needle, (K1, P1) across the stitches on the first needle (Fig. 2e). You have emptied a needle of its stitches; use it to work across the next needle. Fig. 2e
HEEL Remove the marker since it won’t be needed while working the Heel. Working the first stitch of each needle firmly to prevent gaps (Fig. 2f ), (K1, P1) across the remaining three needles to complete Rnd 1.
Dividing Stitches: In order to have the beginning of the round at the center back, you’ll work across the first needle only.
Fig. 2f
Knit across the first needle; slip the stitches from the next two needles onto two separate stitch holders (slipping as if to purl) for the Instep that will be worked later; turn the work. Tip: If your needles aren’t too slippery and it doesn’t scare you to have two needles just hanging there, you can leave the stitches on the needles, ready to work the Instep later. Place point protectors on the ends to keep the stitches from slipping off. Or, you can place the stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.
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SLIPPING STITCHES The first stitch of every row on the Heel will be slipped. You simply transfer it from the left needle to the right needle, holding the working yarn on the wrong side of the work, so that it won’t show – without knitting or purling it. If the slipped stitch will not be used in a decrease, as on the Heel Turning, you can prevent twisted stitches by slipping as if to purl (Fig. 3a). Otherwise, slip as if to knit (Fig. 3b). Fig. 3a
You now have 20{24-28} stitches on one needle and they are centered at the back of the Sock. Row 2 (Right side): Slip 1 (as if to purl), knit across. Row 3: Slip 1 (as if to purl), purl across. Rows 4 thru 19{21-25}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 8{9-11} times. The slipped stitches form an edge of elongated stitches that look like a chain. When it’s time to make the Gusset, you will work in these stitches. COMPLETED HEEL FLAP
Fig. 3b
HEEL FLAP The Heel will be worked in rows using two double pointed needles. Row 1: Slip 1 (as if to purl), purl across the needle and across the next needle.
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TURNING THE HEEL Short rows are formed by only working across some of the stitches on the left needle before turning. This shapes and turns the Heel. Tip: When learning a new technique such as short rows, try to be in a quiet place where you won’t have any interruptions.
Second Size (7 3/4") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn. Third Size (9") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Begin working short rows as follows: Row 10: Slip 1, P 13, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 1: Slip 1, K 11{13-15}, K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K1, leave remaining 5{7-9} stitches unworked; turn.
Row 11: Slip 1, K 14, K2 tog; turn. Row 12: Slip 1, P 14, P2 tog; turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 5{7-9} stitches unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn.
All Sizes: All of the stitches have now been used and 12{14-16} stitches remain on needle; do not cut yarn.
The decrease at the end of each row uses the slipped stitch from the previous row and a stitch that was left unworked on the first or second row (Fig. 4). Fig. 4
GUSSET It’s time to use the Instep stitches that were set aside and start working in rounds again. You will also pick up stitches along both edges of the Heel.
Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Slip the Instep stitches from the stitch holders onto two double pointed needles, placing 10{12-14} stitches on each needle.
Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K0{1-1} (see Zeros, page 53); turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 10{11-11}, P2 tog, P0{1-1}; turn. 9
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FOUNDATION ROUND With the right side of the Heel facing you, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{7-8} of the Heel stitches. Place a split-ring marker around the next stitch to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{7-8} Heel stitches. With the same needle, pick up 10{11-13} stitches along the side of the Heel Flap working under both strands of the slipped stitches (Fig. 21a, page 55). Pick up one stitch in the corner, working into the center of a stitch, rather than under the running yarn between stitches (Fig. 21b, page 55). This will help prevent a hole at the corner. With separate needles, knit across the Instep stitches (Needles 2 and 3). With an empty needle, pick up one stitch in the corner and 10{11-13} stitches along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{7-8} Heel stitches (Needle 4).
GUSSET DECREASES The total number of stitches for the Foot is equal to the number you cast on for the Leg. You will work decreases at the bottom corners of the Heel Flap until you have the same number of stitches on each needle (10, 12, or 14 stitches, depending on the size being made). Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): On Needle 1, knit across to the last 3 stitches, K2 tog, K1; knit across Needles 2 and 3; on Needle 4, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 52{60-70} sts. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 40{48-56} sts, 10{12-14} stitches on each needle.
The stitch count for the Foundation Round is 17{19-22} stitches on Needle 1, 10{12-14} stitches on Needles 2 and 3, and 17{19-22} stitches on Needle 4 for a total of 54{62-72} sts.
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FOOT Knit every round until Foot Length measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5).
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Fig. 5
Rnds 8-11: Knit around. Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 13-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Second Size (7 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts. Foot Length
Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts.
Tip: Feet come in every length and so can your socks. To adjust the foot length, just knit to within 21/2" (6.5 cm) of the total length of your foot (or whosever foot you are knitting for!) before starting the toe.
Rnds 9-13: Knit around. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around.
TOE You’re almost finished with your sock. All that’s left are the toe decreases. You’ll alternate working decrease rounds and even rounds until you have 8 stitches on each needle.
Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 20-22: Knit around. Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
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Third Size (9") Only Rnd 1: (K5, K2 tog) 8 times: 48 sts. Rnds 2-8: Knit around.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining stitches onto tapestry needle (Fig. 6); gather tightly and secure.
Rnd 9: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts. Fig. 6 Rnds 10-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 17-21: Knit around. Rnd 22: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 23-26: Knit around. Rnd 27: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 28-30: Knit around. Rnd 31: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
CONGRATULATIONS!!! You’ve made your very first sock. It wasn’t so bad, now was it? It’s a good idea to start its twin while you’re on a roll. That way your project will be ready to take along the next time you need a small travel project. Now that you’re a sock maker, you can follow the condensed instructions on page 24 for the second one.
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Slide those stitches just worked onto the cable, then move the cast on stitches still on the cable onto the left-hand needle point. Keeping the cable looped to the side, turn the work so that the stitches on the cable are behind the cast on stitches and work across the cast on stitches (Fig. 7d).
ADAPTING PATTERN TO NEEDLES Most sock patterns are written with using double pointed needles in mind, but with a little adjusting, you can follow a pattern using one circular needle. After casting on the stitches, complete the Leg as written.
Fig. 7d Since your stitches are already divided in half, skip the Dividing Stitches and begin the Heel Flap with Row 1. Let the Instep stitches hang out on the cable as you compete the Heel through the Turning. After completing the Heel Turning, you need to adjust the position of the stitches on the cable before beginning the Foundation Round. To do this, pull the excess loop between the center stitches of the Instep group.
Work each round in this manner, slipping the half of the stitches to be worked in place onto the needle point and keeping the other half waiting on the cable. Keep the excess of the cable pulled in a loop to the side. When moving from one set of stitches to the next, be careful to keep an even tension on the working yarn, so that the last stitch worked doesn’t get pulled tight around the cable or be so loose that it forms a hole. If the stitches don’t easily slide back onto the needle point or they slide much too easily, adjust your tension.
The Foundation Round would be then worked as follows: For the first set of stitches, you knit across the Heel stitches, pick up stitches for the left-hand side of the Gusset, place a marker, then work across half of the Instep stitches to the loop. Slide all these stitches onto the cable and move the remaining stitches to the left-hand needle point. Knit across the remaining Instep stitches, place a marker, then pick up stitches for the right-hand side of the Gusset. At the end of the round, you will see that your sock is placed on the needle in a basically “profile” mode. Work the Gusset decreases between the markers on the following rounds. Reposition the stitches after the last Gusset round so that once again half of the stitches are on each side of the excess loop with all the stitches between the markers as the first half; remove markers. Complete the Foot and Toe as written.
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TWO CIRCULAR NEEDLES This method is another alternative to working with the stitches divided on four double pointed needles. Instead, the stitches are divided on two circular needles. Each needle is used independently of the other. While you are knitting across the first half of stitches with the other end of the same needle, the second needle will hang out of the way with the stitches at the center of the cable. Then, you will pick up both ends of the second needle and work across it while the first needle hangs. The best way to master this method is to jump right in and try it. You will need two circular needles (both the same size). They can both be 16" (40.5 cm) or 24" (61 cm) or one of each length so you can easily tell the needles apart. In the photos, we used two different 24" (61 cm) size 4 circular needles.
Cast on all of the stitches for a pattern onto one circular needle. Slip the second half of the cast on stitches onto the second circular needle and place them at the center of the cable. Push the stitches on the first needle to the tip at the opposite end (Fig. 8a). Fig. 8a
Place a marker around any stitch to mark the first needle. Move the first needle so that it’s in front of and parallel to the cable of the second needle (Fig. 8b). Fig. 8b
Holding both needles in your left hand, straighten your stitches so that they’re not twisted around the needles. Using the opposite end of the same needle, work across the stitches on the first needle following the instructions for the Sock of your choice (Fig. 8c). Slide the stitches to the center of the cable and turn your work. Slide the stitches that are on the second needle from the cable to the points and continue working the pattern. Fig. 8c
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When moving from one needle to the next, be careful to keep an even tension on the working yarn, so that the last stitch worked doesn’t get pulled tight around the cable or be so loose that it forms a hole. If the stitches don’t easily slide back onto the needle point or they slide much too easily, adjust your tension.
HEELS Our projects are written for a basic Heel Flap and the round Turning Heel, but there are many other choices.
HEEL FLAP For a more durable heel try the following two variations. Remember, when working the Heel Flap, slip stitches as if to purl.
ADAPTING PATTERN TO NEEDLES Most sock patterns are written with using double pointed needles in mind, but with a little adjusting, you can follow a pattern using two circular needles.
VARIATION 1 Row 1 (Right side): (Slip 1, K1) across.
After casting on the stitches, complete the Leg as written.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, for Heel pattern.
Since your stitches are already divided in half, skip the Dividing Stitches and begin the Heel Flap with Row 1. Let the Instep stitches hang out on the second needle cable as you compete the Heel Turning. The Foundation Round would be then worked as follows: Knit across half of the Heel stitches and place them on a stitch holder or a piece of scrap yarn. Knit across the remaining half of the Heel stitches. Pick up stitches for the lefthand side of the Gusset and place a marker. With the same needle, knit across half of the Instep stitches. With the second needle, knit across the remaining Instep stitches and place a marker. Pick up stitches for the right-hand side of the Gusset. Slip the Heel stitches from the stitch holder onto the left-hand needle point and knit across. At the end of the round, you will see that your sock is placed on the needles in “profile” mode.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl across.
VARIATION 2 Row 1 (Right side): (Slip 1, K1) across. Row 2: (Slip 1, P1) across. Repeat Rows 1 and 2, for Heel pattern.
SQUARE TURNING HEEL The Square Heel is worked in short rows the same as the conventional Heel, but it’s more of a box shape than a tapered shape. On the first row, knit across 2/3 of the stitches working a SSK decrease with the last stitch of the group and the next stitch. On the next row, purl across 1/3 of the stitches working a P2 tog decrease with the last stitch of the group and the next stitch, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. On the following rows, work in Stockinette Stitch across the center third of the stitches (always the same number), then decrease with the last stitch and the next unworked stitch until all of the unworked stitches have been used.
Work the Gusset decreases between the markers on the following rounds. Reposition the stitches after the last Gusset round so that once again the instep and the Heel stitches are on the needle they started on. Complete the Foot and Toe as written.
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For example, if the Heel has 24 sts: Row 1: K 15, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), leave remaining 7 stitches unworked; turn. Row 2: P7, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55); turn.
TOE SHAPING Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): On first needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54) knit across; on second needle, knit across to the last 3 sts, K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K1; on third needle, K1, SSK, knit across; on fourth needle, knit across to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1: 4 stitches decreased.
Row 3: K7, SSK; turn. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rows 4-16: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 6 times; then repeat Row 2 once more: 8 stitches.
TOE ALTERNATIVES GRAFTING
If you prefer a rounded toe rather than a slightly pointed one, you might want to consider grafting your socks together at the toe. Grafting, also known as Kitchener Stitch, is a way of joining the Toe together horizontally without a seam. The stitches are woven directly from the needles using a tapestry needle. The yarn forms a knit row between the stitches on the needles.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, until there are about 4 to 7 stitches left on each needle. Slip half the stitches from the middle needles to each of the other needles, so there are the same amount on the first and last needles.
HOW TO GRAFT Either hold both needles in your left hand with wrong sides together (Fig. 9a), or lay both pieces on a table with the right sides facing you (Fig. 9b). Fig. 9a
To graft, both edges must have the same number of stitches. Instead of working the Toe Shaping as given, you will need to work an alternative shaping. Work the Foot until desired measurement to Toe, then work the following Toe shaping.
Fig. 9b
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Cut the yarn on the front piece leaving a long end and thread a tapestry needle with this end. Work in the following sequence, pulling yarn through as if to knit or as if to purl with an even tension and keeping the yarn below the points of the needles to avoid tangling.
Step 3: Knit first stitch on front needle, slip the stitch off the needle (Fig. 9e). Fig. 9e
Step 1: Purl first stitch on front needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9c). Fig. 9c
Step 4: Purl the next stitch on front needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9f). Fig. 9f
Step 2: Knit first stitch on back needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9d). Fig. 9d
Step 5: Purl first stitch on back needle, slip the stitch off the needle (Fig. 9g). Fig. 9g
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Step 6: Knit next stitch on back needle, leave the stitch on the needle (Fig. 9h). Fig. 9h
With the yarn to the back, slip the next stitch as if to purl, bring the yarn to the front and slip the same stitch back onto the left needle (Fig. 10a). Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Fig. 10a
Repeat Steps 3-6 across (Fig. 9i) until all stitches are worked off the needles, then secure the end. Fig. 9i
On the following rows, when meeting the wrapped stitch, knit or purl the wrap and the stitch it wraps together (Figs. 10b & c). Fig. 10b
SHORT ROWS & WRAPPING STITCHES The Heel Turning section is worked in short rows, only working across some of the stitches. Sometimes a hole is formed when you turn the work. In order to prevent this gap, you can wrap the yarn around the first unworked stitch before turning.
Fig.10c
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Tip: If you have loose stitches or holes along your picked up edge, try knitting the first row working in the back loops (Fig. 11). This will twist your stitches, making them tighter and eliminating holes. Fig. 11 back loop
front loop
Twisted Stitches
STRIPED SOCK JOININGS Even though you are knitting circularly, when you change colors, you will notice that there’s a stair-step at the end of the round. To rid your stripe of that jog is a simple thing. When beginning a new round, insert the tip of the right needle into the loop of the stitch below the first stitch. Lift the loop of this old color stitch up onto the left needle and knit the first stitch and the loop together with the new color. Tug on the old yarn end and the jog will disappear. The only downside to this method is that every time you use it, the beginning of the round moves over one stitch, so that it is not practical to use on one round stripes.
Tip: If you want to knit someone a pair of socks, but don’t want them to know what you are up to, ask to measure them from their wrist to their elbow. This measurement corresponds to most people’s foot length. They may think that you are knitting them a sweater!
TUBE SOCKS Tube socks are wonderful gifts for toddlers or little kids. Simply extend the Leg rounds to include the length of the Foot, then work the Toe. The kiddies can put them on or take them off by themselves. And, because the same side isn’t always on bottom, the socks will wear longer.
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SOCK (Make 2)
TURNING HEEL Begin working short rows as follows:
LEG
Cast on 40{48-56} sts. Slip 10{12-14} sts onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 10{12-14} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7). Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle.
Row 1: Slip 1, K 11{13-15}, K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K1, leave remaining 5{7-9} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 5{7-9} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53).
Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Rnd 1: (K1, P1) around. Repeat Rnd 1 for ribbing until Leg measures approximately 51/2{61/2-8}"/14{16.5-20.5} cm from cast on edge or 1/2" (1.5 cm) less than desired length to heel. 1
Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for /2" (1.5 cm).
Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K0{1-1} (see Zeros, page 53); turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 10{11-11}, P2 tog, P0{1-1}; turn. Second Size (7 3/4") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn.
HEEL Dividing Stitches: Remove marker; knit across first needle; slip sts from the next 2 needles onto 2 separate st holders or scrap yarn for Instep to be worked later; turn.
Third Size (9") Only Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog, K1; turn.
HEEL FLAP Row 1: Slip 1, P 19{23-27} all onto same needle.
Row 11: Slip 1, K 14, K2 tog; turn.
The Heel Flap will be worked back and forth across these 20{24-28} sts.
All Sizes: 12{14-16} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
Row 10: Slip 1, P 13, P2 tog, P1; turn.
Row 12: Slip 1, P 14, P2 tog; turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, knit across. Row 3: Slip 1, purl across. Rows 4 thru 19{21-25}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 8{9-11} times.
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GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds. Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles, 10{12-14} sts each. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{7-8} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{7-8} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 10{11-13} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55).
GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 52{60-70} sts. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 40{48-56} sts, 10{12-14} sts on each needle.
FOOT Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3).
TOE With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 10{11-13} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{7-8} Heel sts (Needle 4).
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts.
Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 17{19-22} sts on first needle, 10{12-14} sts on second and third needles, and 17{19-22} sts on fourth needle for a total of 54{62-72} sts.
Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Rnds 2-6: Knit around.
Rnds 8-11: Knit around.
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Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts.
Rnd 9: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts.
Rnds 13-15: Knit around.
Rnds 10-15: Knit around.
Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
Rnd 16: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts.
Second Size (7 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts.
Rnds 17-21: Knit around. Rnd 22: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnds 23-26: Knit around. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnd 27: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 9-13: Knit around. Rnds 28-30: Knit around. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnd 31: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 20-22: Knit around.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end.
Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Third Size (9") Only Rnd 1: (K5, K2 tog) 8 times: 48 sts. Rnds 2-8: Knit around.
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SOCK (Make 2)
Rnds 1-5: (K2, P2) around.
Cast on 40{48-56} sts.
Rnds 6-10: (P2, K2) around.
Slip 10{12-14} sts onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 10{12-14} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7).
Repeat Rnds 1-10 for Syncopated Rib pattern until Leg measures approximately 51/2{61/2-8}"/ 14{16.5-20.5} cm from cast on edge or 1/2" (1.5 cm) less than desired length to heel, ending by working Rnd 5 or Rnd 10.
LEG
Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53).
Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for 1/2" (1.5 cm). Beginning with Heel, complete same as Basic Sock, page 24.
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When instructed to slip a stitch, slip as if to purl with yarn held to wrong side unless otherwise indicated (Fig. 3a, page 8).
Fig. 12
SOCK (Make 2) GARTER TOP
Leaving a long end for sewing, cast on 16 sts. Row 1 (Right side): Knit across. Note: Place a split-ring marker around any stitch to mark Row 1 as right side. Row 2: K2, YO (Fig. 14, page 53), K2 tog (Fig. 16, page 53), K 11, P1.
Dividing Stitches: With right side facing. slip 9{10-12} stitches onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 9{10-12} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7).
Row 3: Slip 1, K 12, YO, K2 tog, K1. Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 34{38-46} times; then repeat Row 2 once more for Garter Top pattern. Bind off all sts in knit leaving last st on needle (counts as first st of Leg); do not cut yarn. There will be 35{39-47} slipped stitches along one side edge plus one stitch still on the needle.
LEG With right side facing and continuing with the working yarn, pick up stitches along edge of Garter Top to form a decorative ridge on the right side as follows: insert the needle from the back to the front under two strands of a slipped stitch (Fig. 12). Put the yarn around the needle as if to purl, then bring the needle with the yarn back through the stitch to the wrong side, resulting in a stitch on the needle. Repeat this along the edge, picking up a stitch in each slipped stitch: 36{40-48} sts.
The Leg will be worked in rounds. Hold the needles forming a square with the decorative ridge facing toward the outside and the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53). Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) until Leg measures approximately 6{7-81/2}"/15{18-21.5} cm from top edge of Sock or to desired length to heel.
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HEEL Dividing Stitches: Remove marker; knit across first needle; slip sts from the next 2 needles onto 2 separate st holders or scrap yarn for Instep to be worked later; turn.
Third Size (8 3/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn.
HEEL FLAP Row 1: Slip 1, P 17{19-23} all onto same needle. The Heel Flap will be worked back and forth across these 18{20-24} sts. Row 2: Slip 1, knit across.
Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn. All Sizes: 12{12-14} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds.
Row 3: Slip 1, purl across. Rows 4 thru 17{19-23}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 7{8-10} times. TURNING HEEL Begin working short rows as follows: Row 1: Slip 1, K 10{11-13}, K2 tog, K1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles, 9{10-12} sts on each needle. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{6-7} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{6-7} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55).
Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Second Size (7 1/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 10, P2 tog; turn.
With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3). With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{6-7} Heel sts (Needle 4). Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 16{17-20} sts on first needle, 9{10-12} sts on second and third needles, and 16{17-20} sts on fourth needle for a total of 50{54-64} sts.
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GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 48{52-62} sts. Rnd 2: Knit around. Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 36{40-48} sts, 9{10-12} sts on each needle.
Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 13-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Third Size (8 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts. Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 9-13: Knit around.
FOOT Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts.
TOE
Rnds 20-22: Knit around.
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K2, K2 tog) 9 times: 27 sts.
Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
Rnds 2-5: Knit around. Rnd 6: (K1, K2 tog) 9 times: 18 sts. Rnds 7-9: Knit around. Rnd 10: K2 tog 9 times: 9 sts.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end. Sew the cast on and the bound off edges of the Garter Top together.
Second Size (7 1/4") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 8-11: Knit around.
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When instructed to slip a stitch, slip as if to purl with yarn held to wrong side unless otherwise indicated (Fig. 3a, page 8).
STITCH GUIDE RIGHT TWIST (abbreviated RT) Insert right needle into the front loop of the second stitch on the left needle as if to knit (Fig. 13a). Wrap the yarn knitwise and draw it through. Do not slip the stitch off the needle. Knit the first stitch (Fig. 13b), letting both stitches drop off the left needle. Fig. 13a
SOCK (Make 2) LEG
Cast on 36{40-48} sts. Divide sts onto 4 needles as follows (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7): 8{10-12} sts on first needle, 10{10-12} sts on second needle, 8{10-12} sts on third needle, and 10{10-12} sts on fourth needle. Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53). Rnds 1-5: (K2, P2) around. Rnd 6: (RT, P2) around. Rnds 7 thru 32{44-50}: Repeat Rnds 1-6 for Baby Cables pattern, 4{6-7} times; then repeat Rnds 1 and 2 once more.
Fig. 13b
First Size (6 1/2") Only Rearrange sts so there are 9 sts on each needle. All Sizes: Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) until Leg measures approximately 53/4{7-81/2}"/ 14.5{18-21.5} cm from cast on edge or desired length to heel.
Beginning with Heel, complete same as Garter Top Socks, page 30.
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TURNING HEEL
GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds.
Begin working short rows as follows: Row 1: Slip 1, K 10{11-13}, K2 tog, K1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 4{5-7} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Second Size (7 1/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog; turn.
Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{6-7} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{6-7} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55). With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3).
Row 8: Slip 1, P 10, P2 tog; turn. Third Size (9") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn.
With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 9{10-12} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{6-7} Heel sts (Needle 4).
Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn. All Sizes: 12{12-14} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 16{17-20} sts on first needle, 8{10-13} sts on second needle, 9{10-13} sts on third needle, and 16{17-20} sts on fourth needle for a total of 49{54-66} sts. GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK, knit across: 47{52-64} sts.
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Rnd 2: Knit around.
Rnds 8-11: Knit around.
Rnds 3 thru 14{14-16}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 6{6-7} times: 35{40-50} sts.
Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnds 13-15: Knit around.
FOOT
Rnd 16: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts.
Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
Third Size (9") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 10 times: 40 sts. Rnds 2-7: Knit around.
TOE First Size (6 1/4") Only Rnd 1: K3, (K2 tog, K2) 8 times: 27 sts.
Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 9-13: Knit around.
Rnds 2-5: Knit around. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnd 6: (K1, K2 tog) 9 times: 18 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnds 7-9: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts. Rnd 10: K2 tog 9 times: 9 sts. Rnds 20-22: Knit around. Second Size (7 1/4") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts.
Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end.
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SOCK (Make 2) LEG
Tip: Due to the pattern multiple and the make ones and decreases, this design might be easier to work with circular needle(s) than with double pointed needles (see Needle Methods, pages 13-16). Cast on 36{48-60} sts. Slip 9{12-15} sts onto each of 3 double pointed needles, leaving 9{12-15} sts on the fourth needle (Figs. 2a-f, pages 6 and 7).
HEEL Dividing Stitches: Remove marker; knit across first needle; slip sts from the next 2 needles onto 2 separate st holders or scrap yarn for Instep to be worked later; turn. HEEL FLAP Row 1: Slip 1, P 17{23-29} all onto same needle. The Heel Flap will be worked back and forth across these 18{24-30} sts. Row 2: Slip 1, knit across.
Hold the needles forming a square with the working yarn coming from the stitch on the last needle. Be careful to not twist stitches around the needle. Place a split-ring marker around the first stitch to indicate the beginning of the round (see Markers, page 53).
Row 3: Slip 1, purl across. Rows 4 thru 17{23-29}: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 7{10-13} times. TURNING HEEL Begin working short rows as follows:
Rnds 1-12: (K1, P1) around. Rnd 13: Knit around. Note: When you work the Make One, be sure to work in the front of the lifted strand as the hole is part of the design.
Row 1: Slip 1, K 10{13-16}, K2 tog, K1, leave remaining 4{7-10} sts unworked; turn. Row 2: Slip 1, P5, P2 tog (Fig. 20, page 55), P1, leave remaining 4{7-10} sts unworked; turn. Row 3: Slip 1, K6, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Rnd 14: H K1, M1 (Fig. 15, page 53), K4, [slip 1 as if to knit, K2 tog, PSSO (Figs. 18a & b, page 54)], K4, M1; repeat from H around.
Row 4: Slip 1, P7, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 5: Slip 1, K8, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Repeat Rnds 13 and 14 for Chevron pattern until Leg measures approximately 5{6-71/2}"/ 12.5{15-19} cm from cast on edge or 1" (2.5 cm) less than desired length to heel. Knit every round (Stockinette Stitch) for 1" (2.5 cm).
Row 6: Slip 1, P9, P2 tog, P1; turn. Second Size (7 3/4") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 12, P2 tog; turn.
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Third Size (9 1/2") Only Row 7: Slip 1, K 10, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 8: Slip 1, P 11, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 9: Slip 1, K 12, K2 tog, K1; turn. Row 10: Slip 1, P 13, P2 tog, P1; turn. Row 11: Slip 1, K 14, K2 tog, K1; turn.
Stitch count for the Foundation Round is 15{19-24} sts on first needle, 9{12-15} sts on second and third needles, and 15{19-24} sts on fourth needle for a total of 48{62-78} sts. GUSSET DECREASES Rnd 1 (Decrease rnd): Knit across to the last 3 sts on first needle, K2 tog, K1; knit across second and third needles; on fourth needle, K1, SSK (Figs. 17a-c, page 54), knit across: 46{60-76} sts.
Row 12: Slip 1, P 15, P2 tog, P1; turn. Rnd 2: Knit around. All Sizes: 12{14-18} sts remaining on needle; do not cut yarn.
Rnds 3 thru 12{14-18}: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2, 5{6-8} times: 36{48-60} sts, 9{12-15} sts on each needle.
GUSSET The remainder of the Sock is worked in rounds.
FOOT Slip the Instep sts from the st holders onto 2 double pointed needles, placing 9{12-15} sts on each one. FOUNDATION ROUND With right side of Heel facing, using an empty double pointed needle and continuing with the working yarn, knit 6{7-9} of the Heel sts. Place a split-ring marker around the next st to indicate the beginning of the round. Using an empty double pointed needle (this will be Needle 1), knit across the remaining 6{7-9} Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 8{11-14} sts along the side of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a, page 55) and one st in the corner (Fig. 21b, page 55).
Knit every round until Foot measures approximately 61/4{71/2-83/4}"/16{19-22} cm from the back of the Heel (Fig. 5, page 10) or desired length to Toe.
TOE First Size (5 3/4") Only Rnd 1: (K3, K2 tog) 7 times, K1: 29 sts. Rnds 2-6: Knit around. Rnd 7: (K2, K2 tog) 7 times, K1: 22 sts. Rnds 8-11: Knit around. Rnd 12: (K1, K2 tog) 7 times, K1: 15 sts.
With separate needles, knit across the Instep sts (Needles 2 and 3). With an empty needle, pick up one st in the corner and 8{11-14} sts along the side of the Heel Flap. With the same needle, knit 6{7-9} Heel sts (Needle 4).
Rnds 13-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: K2 tog 7 times, K1: 8 sts.
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Second Size (7 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K4, K2 tog) 8 times: 40 sts.
Rnd 22: (K2, K2 tog) 9 times: 27 sts. Rnds 23-26: Knit around.
Rnds 2-7: Knit around. Rnd 27: (K1, K2 tog) 9 times: 18 sts. Rnd 8: (K3, K2 tog) 8 times: 32 sts. Rnds 28-30: Knit around. Rnds 9-13: Knit around. Rnd 31: K2 tog 9 times: 9 sts. Rnd 14: (K2, K2 tog) 8 times: 24 sts. Rnds 15-18: Knit around. Rnd 19: (K1, K2 tog) 8 times: 16 sts.
All Sizes Cut yarn leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) end. Thread tapestry needle with end and slip remaining sts onto tapestry needle; gather tightly and secure end.
Rnds 20-22: Knit around. Rnd 23: K2 tog 8 times: 8 sts. Third Size (9 1/2") Only Rnd 1: (K8, K2 tog) 6 times: 54 sts. Rnds 2-8: Knit around. Rnd 9: (K4, K2 tog) 9 times: 45 sts. Rnds 10-15: Knit around. Rnd 16: (K3, K2 tog) 9 times: 36 sts. Rnds 17-21: Knit around.
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KNIT TERMINOLOGY UNITED STATES INTERNATIONAL gauge = tension bind off = cast off yarn over (YO) = yarn forward (yfwd) or yarn around needle (yrn)
Yarn Weight Symbol & Names Type of Yarns in Category
Sock, Fingering Baby
Sport, Baby
DK, Light Worsted
Worsted, Afghan, Aran
Chunky, Craft, Rug
Bulky, Roving
Knit Gauge Ranges in Stockinette St to 4" (10 cm)
27-32 sts
23-26 sts
21-24 sts
16-20 sts
12-15 sts
6-11 sts
Advised Needle Size Range
1-3
3-5
5-7
7-9
9-11
11 and larger
KNITTING NEEDLES U.S.
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
101/2
11
13
15
17
U.K.
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
00
000
---
2
2.25
2.75
3.25
3.5
3.75
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
8
9
10
12.75
Metric - mm
Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal shaping. Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing. Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace, simple intarsia, double-pointed needles and knitting in the round needle techniques, mid-level shaping and finishing. Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows, fair isle, more intricate intarsia, cables, lace patterns, and numerous color changes.
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ZEROS
MAKE ONE (abbreviated M1)
To consolidate the length of an involved pattern, zeros are sometimes used so that all sizes can be combined. For example, K0{1-1} means the first size would do nothing, the second and third sizes would knit one.
Insert the left needle from the front under the horizontal strand between the stitches (Fig. 15). Then knit into the front of the strand. This will create a hole and will be part of the pattern.
MARKERS As a convenience to you, we have used markers to help distinguish the beginning of a round and to mark placement for decreases. Place markers as instructed. When using double pointed needles and marking the beginning of a round, a splitring marker is placed around the first stitch to prevent the marker from slipping off the needle. When you reach the marker, move it to the new stitch after it has been made. When marking placement for decreases or using circular needles, you may use split-ring markers or tie a length of contrasting color yarn around the needle. When you reach a marker, move it from the left needle to the right needle; remove it when no longer needed.
Fig. 15
KNIT 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated K2 tog)
Insert the right needle into the front of the first two stitches on the left needle as if to knit (Fig. 16), then knit them together as if they were one stitch. Fig. 16
YARN OVER (abbreviated YO) Bring the yarn forward between the needles, then back over the top of the right hand needle, so that it is now in position to knit the next stitch (Fig. 14). On the following round, treat the YO as a stitch. Fig. 14
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SLIP, SLIP, KNIT
SLIP 1, KNIT 2 TOGETHER, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER
(abbreviated SSK)
With yarn in back of work, separately slip two stitches as if to knit (Fig. 17a). Insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches (Fig. 17b) and knit them together as if they were one stitch (Fig. 17c). Fig. 17a
(abbreviated slip 1, K2 tog, PSSO)
Slip one stitch as if to knit (Fig. 18a), then knit the next two stitches together (Fig. 16, page 53). With the left needle, bring the slipped stitch over the stitch just made (Fig. 18b) and off the needle.
Fig. 17b Fig. 18a
Fig. 18b
Fig. 17c
SLIP 2, KNIT 1, PASS 2 SLIPPED STITCHES OVER (abbreviated slip 2 as if to knit, K1, P2SSO)
With yarn in back, separately slip two stitches as if to knit (Fig. 19a), then knit the next stitch. With the left needle, bring both slipped stitches over the knit stitch (Fig. 19b) and off the needle. Fig. 19a
Fig. 19b
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PURL 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated P2 tog)
Insert the right needle into the front of the first two stitches on the left needle as if to purl (Fig. 20), then purl them together as if they were one stitch.
Repeat this along the edge, picking up and knitting the required number of stitches. Pick up a stitch in the corner of the Heel by inserting the needle into the center of the stitch (Fig. 21b). A crochet hook may be helpful to pull yarn through.
Fig. 20 Fig. 21b
PICKING UP STITCHES When instructed to pick up stitches, insert the needle from the front to the back under two strands of the slipped stitches at the edge of the Heel Flap (Fig. 21a). Put the yarn around the needle as if to knit, then bring the needle with the yarn back through the stitch to the right side, resulting in a stitch on the needle. Fig. 21a
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YARN INFORMATION Socks in this leaflet were made using Light or Super Fine Weight Yarn. Any brand of the same weight yarn may be used. It is best to refer to the yardage/meters when determining how many balls or skeins to purchase. Remember, to arrive at the finished size, it is the GAUGE/TENSION that is important, not the brand of yarn. For your convenience, listed below are the specific yarns used to create our photography models.
BASIC SOCKS Patons® Astra #02895 Lip Pink #02941 School Bus Yellow #08317 Hot Lilac #08416 Hot Pink #08712 Hot Green #08742 Hot Blue BABY CABLES SOCKS Moda Dea™ Sassy Stripes™ #6930 Stormy GARTER TOP SOCKS Moda Dea™ Sassy Stripes™ #6946 Crush OPENWORK LADDER SOCKS Moda Dea™ Sassy Stripes™ #6952 Swish SYNCOPATED RIB SOCKS Lion Brand® Magic Stripes #201 Denim Stripe
BASIC CHEVRON SOCKS Lion Brand® Magic Stripes #200 Jelly Bean Stripe PURL BARRED CHEVRON SOCKS Lion Brand® Magic Stripes #207 Regatta Blue Stripe EYELET CHEVRON SOCKS Patons® Kroy Socks #54801 Krazy Stripes CREST O’ THE WAVE SOCKS Patons® Kroy Socks Main Color - #54603 Crayon Jacquard Contrasting Color - #54727 Retro Red (color is no longer available) LITTLE ARROWHEAD LACE SOCKS Patons® Kroy Socks #54744 Pink Power (color is no longer available)
PRODUCTION TEAM: Technical Editor - Cathy Hardy Contributing Editors - Elizabeth Field, Katie Galucki, Sarah J. Green, and Mary Hutcheson Editorial Writer - Susan McManus Johnson
Graphic Artist - Ashley Carozza Senior Graphic Artist - Chaska Richardson Lucas Photo Stylist - Christy Meyers Photographer - Jerry Davis
We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work. ©2007 by Leisure Arts, Inc., 5701 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, AR 72223. All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution of this publication or any other Leisure Arts publication, including publications which are out of print, is prohibited unless specifically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning, or e-mail transmission.
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ISBN-10: 1-60140-250-3 ISBN-13: 978-1-60140-250-9
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