In its 100-year history, Neiman Marcus has discovered
PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEFF VON HOENE STYLED BY DARCI ADLER
ACentury of Style In its 100-year history,
Neiman Marcus has discovered,
launched, and developed some of the finest names in fashion.
That was the plan all along when founders Herbert Marcus, Carrie
Marcus Neiman, and Al Neiman opened the first store in Dallas. An ad in the Dallas Morning News on Sunday, September 8, 1907, announcing the opening, clearly stated that they had
“secured exclusive lines” and would be
“hypercritical” in their selections. “Only the finest productions of the best garment makers are good enough for us,” vowed the founders. While the makers have changed over the years, the promises have not. The following are just a few of Neiman Marcus’ great finds—some as old as 60 years and some as recent as 3—all
innovative and visionary in their respective fields.
Manolo Blahnik: Women’s Shoes Every fashionable woman either has Manolos in her closet (and more pairs than she’ll ever admit) or wants to have them. Blahnik made the idea of running around all day in stilettos or silk mules de rigueur. Many women talk about their Manolos with reverence, and while one pair may fall out of favor for a while, it’s unlikely to ever be retired. The Spanish-born,
London-based designer is now a household name, but it wasn’t always that way. Neiman Marcus was among Blahnik’s first customers in 1984. Since 1985, he has made more than 200 visits to stores around the country. “Our relationship with Neiman Marcus has not only been vital to making our mark in this country, but it has also become one of our dearest friendships,” says Blahnik, adding that “Neiman Marcus is America.”
Chantecaille: Cosmetics Even though it has grown from 1 store to 39 in the last 100 years, Neiman Marcus is still open to new, untried labels if the idea is good and the talent is there. When Sylvie Chantecaille started her own company, she took her fragrance to Neiman Marcus. “They said, ‘Sylvie, we love it. We’ll take it,’ ” says Chantecaille. “They were so positive and encouraging.” When she branched into cosmetics and skin care, Neiman Marcus
helped her find the best way to go about it. “I just had a couple of samples of this foundation I developed in Japan, and that was enough for them. They understand the innovative quality and craftsmanship that goes into each product.” Chantecaille’s line is very specialized; she uses the finest ingredients and produces in the most expensive markets—Tokyo, Switzerland, France, and Italy. Customers simply love the way it feels on their skin. “It’s hard to explain; it’s just a sense,” says Chantecaille.
Pucci: Women’s Designer Collections Emilio Pucci had a way with prints, to say the least—his exotic and vivid color combinations were a fresh look that was snatched up by chic women everywhere. So popular were his prints that he was much copied and imitated, but true Pucci connoisseurs know the difference. The Italian label also celebrates an anniversary this year—its 60th—thanks in part to Neiman Marcus. Emilio Pucci’s daughter Laudomia shares this recollection: “I remember my father telling me that after he had been inspired in his choice of colors by the flags at the Palio horse race, he met with Stanley Marcus, who said, ‘Emilio, I’d like to see some shirts and dresses,’ and so he did exactly that, and the Palio collection of 1957 was born. My father often said that Stanley not only had an eye but also had inspired him so very much.” Pucci is still desirable today under the reins of Matthew Williamson, who is putting his own stamp on the legendary prints. “To be included in the 60th anniversary of such an amazing house is a huge honor for me,” says Williamson.
Above: (clockwise from bottom left) Chantecaille limited edition compact with enameled coral branch designed by Jay Strongwater (five percent of proceeds will benefit critically endangered coral reefs around the world; $420 NM/BG); Eau de Rose de Mai Pure Rosewater spray ($48 NM/BG); lipstick ($26 NM/BG) in Rose de Mai; and Biodynamic Lifting Mask ($145 NM/BG). Opposite page: Pucci Ceramiche-print sequined shift dress ($2,460 NM/BG) and intarsia knit turtleneck dress ($1,290 NM) with cuffed sleeve. Previous page: Manolo Blahnik Art Deco–inspired Descortes pump ($755 NM) with marcasite buckle.
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Henry Dunay: Precious Jewelry In the early days, Neiman Marcus did not officially carry fine jewelry, although Carrie Neiman sometimes bought pieces for special clients. Stanley Marcus saw an opportunity and helped start the department toward the end of World War II. Longtime designer Henry Dunay, who has been involved with Neiman Marcus for most of his 50 years in business, describes their success: “Neiman Marcus is the only store that has the ability to sell fine couture and fine apparel at the same time. Customers used to have to go to two places. Neiman Marcus broke down that door. They really know their customers and are not going to go wrong.” Dunay has come to know the customers of Neiman Marcus as well, designing pieces with certain customers in mind. His designs, often in intricate pavé settings, have graced many celebrities, First Ladies, and royalty. Dunay’s 50 years will be celebrated in Henry Dunay: A Precious Life by Penny Proddow and Marion Fasel (Abrams, 2007).
Robert Rodriguez: Contemporary Sportswear Neiman Marcus has embraced not only couture collections but also the designers of contemporary sportswear, such as bright new talent Robert Rodriguez, whose line launched in October 2004. Rodriguez, who trained at Christian Dior under Marc Bohan and Geri Gerald, stands out in this crowded, trend-oriented field due to his haute couture–like craftsmanship and attention to
Kiton: Menswear The store’s first foray into menswear came in 1928, when it began introducing the type of fine merchandise that men usually had to go to New York to purchase. Neiman Marcus continues to bring the best lines, such as Kiton, known for its sophisticated, old-world tailoring; bespoke detailing; and fine fabrics. All of the suits are completely handmade, and most take about 25 hours to complete. The Italian line is certainly one the founders would approve of, and Massimo Bizzocchi, chairman of Kiton
detail. Rodriguez credits Neiman Marcus with giving him one of his first big breaks. “They are a great supporter and have branded the Robert Rodriguez name and collection with their usual high standards,” says Rodriguez, who has made four personal appearances at Neiman Marcus stores. “Every appearance was a memorable experience because of the way Neiman Marcus handled the event for myself and the customer. They devote exceptional attention to both their suppliers and their consumers.”
Corp., is also pleased with the relationship. “Working with Neiman Marcus is almost like a daily conversation with a partner. Concentrating all our efforts on providing the most exclusive qualities combined with the best balance with prices has been, and continues to be, the best way to reinforce the fundamental principles of the founders,” says Bizzocchi. “It is amazing that through a special retail store, we are able to reach consumers all over the country that are contributing, with their culture and knowledge, to the seasonal innovation of our business.”
Above: Robert Rodriguez waist-seamed dress ($374 NM) and Kiton cashmere sport coat ($4,595 NM) in charcoal. Opposite page: Henry Dunay platinum necklace with 8.83 carats of diamonds and 71 carats of blue-sheen moonstones ($234,000 NM/BG).
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Below: Jerry Sorbara natural beige chinchilla short coat ($29,500 NM). Opposite page: (clockwise from left) Leiber Goddess Austrian crystal minaudière ($2,495 NM/BG) in jet, with matching silk satin trim; satin and crystal minaudière ($1,495 NM) with channel-set crystals; and Diamondback sterling silver minaudière ($2,695 NM/BG).
Jerry Sorbara: Furs The founders promised exclusive lines, and that is still a part of the company’s philosophy. Italian-born master furrier Jerry Sorbara started working with Stanley Marcus in 1961, as a fashion assistant, and 14 years later started his own business. In 1981, after Sorbara’s business partners had retired, the Marcus family asked him to be exclusive with the store. Because the philosophy of the company—dedication to the best—fit his
Leiber: Handbags Before the dazzling minaudières that Leiber is so known for, the company started in another luxurious but more subdued manner with exotic-skin handbags in 1963, and Neiman Marcus was there, buying a whipsnake tote bag from Judith Leiber’s first line. “We used the same skin this year, and Neiman Marcus bought it again,” says Frank Zambrelli, president and creative director of Leiber. “Neiman Marcus has been there from the beginning, and working with them is more like working with family because the team is so consistent. It doesn’t feel like a business transaction.” Leiber’s handbags have always been in the limelight as red carpet and charity ball staples and are now in the permanent collections of museums such as the Met, the Smithsonian, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Under Zambrelli’s guidance, the brand has updated its image, collaborated with überstylist Rachel Zoe, and entered other categories such as eyewear, sold at Neiman Marcus. The company’s first fragrance, é Leiber, will debut in September.
own, he didn’t hesitate. Sorbara, who says he “feels like an employee of Neiman Marcus,” often creates one-of-a-kind and visionary designs for clients. “If they can think of it, I can deliver it 99.9 percent of the time,” he says. Sorbara certainly has logged enough hours to be on the payroll. Last year he held trunk shows every weekend from September to December all over the country. One store loved the elegant Sorbara so much that he made two visits in one season.
ACentury of Style In its 100-year history,
Neiman Marcus has discovered,
launched, and developed some of the finest names in fashion.
That was the plan all along when founders Herbert Marcus, Carrie
Marcus Neiman, and Al Neiman opened the first store in Dallas. An ad in the Dallas Morning News on Sunday, September 8, 1907, announcing the opening, clearly stated that they had
“secured exclusive lines” and would be
“hypercritical” in their selections. “Only the finest productions of the best garment makers are good enough for us,” vowed the founders. While the makers have changed over the years, the promises have not. The following are just a few of Neiman Marcus’ great finds—some as old as 60 years and some as recent as 3—all
innovative and visionary in their respective fields.
Manolo Blahnik: Women’s Shoes Every fashionable woman either has Manolos in her closet (and more pairs than she’ll ever admit) or wants to have them. Blahnik made the idea of running around all day in stilettos or silk mules de rigueur. Many women talk about their Manolos with reverence, and while one pair may fall out of favor for a while, it’s unlikely to ever be retired. The Spanish-born,
London-based designer is now a household name, but it wasn’t always that way. Neiman Marcus was among Blahnik’s first customers in 1984. Since 1985, he has made more than 200 visits to stores around the country. “Our relationship with Neiman Marcus has not only been vital to making our mark in this country, but it has also become one of our dearest friendships,” says Blahnik, adding that “Neiman Marcus is America.”
Chantecaille: Cosmetics Even though it has grown from 1 store to 39 in the last 100 years, Neiman Marcus is still open to new, untried labels if the idea is good and the talent is there. When Sylvie Chantecaille started her own company, she took her fragrance to Neiman Marcus. “They said, ‘Sylvie, we love it. We’ll take it,’ ” says Chantecaille. “They were so positive and encouraging.” When she branched into cosmetics and skin care, Neiman Marcus
helped her find the best way to go about it. “I just had a couple of samples of this foundation I developed in Japan, and that was enough for them. They understand the innovative quality and craftsmanship that goes into each product.” Chantecaille’s line is very specialized; she uses the finest ingredients and produces in the most expensive markets—Tokyo, Switzerland, France, and Italy. Customers simply love the way it feels on their skin. “It’s hard to explain; it’s just a sense,” says Chantecaille.
Pucci: Women’s Designer Collections Emilio Pucci had a way with prints, to say the least—his exotic and vivid color combinations were a fresh look that was snatched up by chic women everywhere. So popular were his prints that he was much copied and imitated, but true Pucci connoisseurs know the difference. The Italian label also celebrates an anniversary this year—its 60th—thanks in part to Neiman Marcus. Emilio Pucci’s daughter Laudomia shares this recollection: “I remember my father telling me that after he had been inspired in his choice of colors by the flags at the Palio horse race, he met with Stanley Marcus, who said, ‘Emilio, I’d like to see some shirts and dresses,’ and so he did exactly that, and the Palio collection of 1957 was born. My father often said that Stanley not only had an eye but also had inspired him so very much.” Pucci is still desirable today under the reins of Matthew Williamson, who is putting his own stamp on the legendary prints. “To be included in the 60th anniversary of such an amazing house is a huge honor for me,” says Williamson.
Above: (clockwise from bottom left) Chantecaille limited edition compact with enameled coral branch designed by Jay Strongwater (five percent of proceeds will benefit critically endangered coral reefs around the world; $420 NM/BG); Eau de Rose de Mai Pure Rosewater spray ($48 NM/BG); lipstick ($26 NM/BG) in Rose de Mai; and Biodynamic Lifting Mask ($145 NM/BG). Opposite page: Pucci Ceramiche-print sequined shift dress ($2,460 NM/BG) and intarsia knit turtleneck dress ($1,290 NM) with cuffed sleeve. Previous page: Manolo Blahnik Art Deco–inspired Descortes pump ($755 NM) with marcasite buckle.
94
Henry Dunay: Precious Jewelry In the early days, Neiman Marcus did not officially carry fine jewelry, although Carrie Neiman sometimes bought pieces for special clients. Stanley Marcus saw an opportunity and helped start the department toward the end of World War II. Longtime designer Henry Dunay, who has been involved with Neiman Marcus for most of his 50 years in business, describes their success: “Neiman Marcus is the only store that has the ability to sell fine couture and fine apparel at the same time. Customers used to have to go to two places. Neiman Marcus broke down that door. They really know their customers and are not going to go wrong.” Dunay has come to know the customers of Neiman Marcus as well, designing pieces with certain customers in mind. His designs, often in intricate pavé settings, have graced many celebrities, First Ladies, and royalty. Dunay’s 50 years will be celebrated in Henry Dunay: A Precious Life by Penny Proddow and Marion Fasel (Abrams, 2007).
Robert Rodriguez: Contemporary Sportswear Neiman Marcus has embraced not only couture collections but also the designers of contemporary sportswear, such as bright new talent Robert Rodriguez, whose line launched in October 2004. Rodriguez, who trained at Christian Dior under Marc Bohan and Geri Gerald, stands out in this crowded, trend-oriented field due to his haute couture–like craftsmanship and attention to
Kiton: Menswear The store’s first foray into menswear came in 1928, when it began introducing the type of fine merchandise that men usually had to go to New York to purchase. Neiman Marcus continues to bring the best lines, such as Kiton, known for its sophisticated, old-world tailoring; bespoke detailing; and fine fabrics. All of the suits are completely handmade, and most take about 25 hours to complete. The Italian line is certainly one the founders would approve of, and Massimo Bizzocchi, chairman of Kiton
detail. Rodriguez credits Neiman Marcus with giving him one of his first big breaks. “They are a great supporter and have branded the Robert Rodriguez name and collection with their usual high standards,” says Rodriguez, who has made four personal appearances at Neiman Marcus stores. “Every appearance was a memorable experience because of the way Neiman Marcus handled the event for myself and the customer. They devote exceptional attention to both their suppliers and their consumers.”
Corp., is also pleased with the relationship. “Working with Neiman Marcus is almost like a daily conversation with a partner. Concentrating all our efforts on providing the most exclusive qualities combined with the best balance with prices has been, and continues to be, the best way to reinforce the fundamental principles of the founders,” says Bizzocchi. “It is amazing that through a special retail store, we are able to reach consumers all over the country that are contributing, with their culture and knowledge, to the seasonal innovation of our business.”
Above: Robert Rodriguez waist-seamed dress ($374 NM) and Kiton cashmere sport coat ($4,595 NM) in charcoal. Opposite page: Henry Dunay platinum necklace with 8.83 carats of diamonds and 71 carats of blue-sheen moonstones ($234,000 NM/BG).
97
Below: Jerry Sorbara natural beige chinchilla short coat ($29,500 NM). Opposite page: (clockwise from left) Leiber Goddess Austrian crystal minaudière ($2,495 NM/BG) in jet, with matching silk satin trim; satin and crystal minaudière ($1,495 NM) with channel-set crystals; and Diamondback sterling silver minaudière ($2,695 NM/BG).
Jerry Sorbara: Furs The founders promised exclusive lines, and that is still a part of the company’s philosophy. Italian-born master furrier Jerry Sorbara started working with Stanley Marcus in 1961, as a fashion assistant, and 14 years later started his own business. In 1981, after Sorbara’s business partners had retired, the Marcus family asked him to be exclusive with the store. Because the philosophy of the company—dedication to the best—fit his
Leiber: Handbags Before the dazzling minaudières that Leiber is so known for, the company started in another luxurious but more subdued manner with exotic-skin handbags in 1963, and Neiman Marcus was there, buying a whipsnake tote bag from Judith Leiber’s first line. “We used the same skin this year, and Neiman Marcus bought it again,” says Frank Zambrelli, president and creative director of Leiber. “Neiman Marcus has been there from the beginning, and working with them is more like working with family because the team is so consistent. It doesn’t feel like a business transaction.” Leiber’s handbags have always been in the limelight as red carpet and charity ball staples and are now in the permanent collections of museums such as the Met, the Smithsonian, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Under Zambrelli’s guidance, the brand has updated its image, collaborated with überstylist Rachel Zoe, and entered other categories such as eyewear, sold at Neiman Marcus. The company’s first fragrance, é Leiber, will debut in September.
own, he didn’t hesitate. Sorbara, who says he “feels like an employee of Neiman Marcus,” often creates one-of-a-kind and visionary designs for clients. “If they can think of it, I can deliver it 99.9 percent of the time,” he says. Sorbara certainly has logged enough hours to be on the payroll. Last year he held trunk shows every weekend from September to December all over the country. One store loved the elegant Sorbara so much that he made two visits in one season.
