ISTANBUL
TUSCANY
SUMMER 2015
TEL AVIV
IBIZA
FUNEN
VENICE
YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON EARTH
INSIDER ACCESS:
ISTANBUL
CALIFORNIA COOL Palm Springs to Napa Valley Europe’s New CULINARY CAPITAL
U.S. EDITION
SECRET SHOPS, HIDDEN MARKETS, EMERGING NEIGHBORHOODS AND MORE!
+
Poppy Delevingne’s Summer Essentials Moby’s Foodie Fantasies Kelly Wearstler’s Literary Escapes
54 ultratravel
BRAZIL BY THE BOTTLE
The country of samba is South America’s next need-to-know wine destination. BY CHADNER NAVARRO
D PHOTO BY SILVIA TONON
iscerning oenophiles now have one more winemaking region to add to their travel plans: Brazil. Sure, the country is synonymous with golden beaches and exotic rainforests, but as of late, its southernmost region is putting Brazil on the map as one of South America’s largest and most promising wine producers. Admittedly, finding the best of Brazilian wines requires a bit of a trek—if you want them from the source. Brazil’s only designation of origin, Vale dos Vinhedos (Valley of the Vineyards), is in its southernmost state of Rio Grande do Sul in the lush mountainous region of Serra Gaúcha. But the excursion is worth it, as plenty of awardwinning wineries are working diligently to trump the caipirinha. Here are the labels to know. It was Italian immigrants who introduced winemaking to southern Brazil when they came toward the end of the 19th century and eventually cultivated Vitis vinifera in its soil. Today, Serra Gaúcha is most often lauded for its merlot, and Pizzato Vinhas e Vinhos’ DNA99 single-vineyard merlot from 2011 is one of the region’s finest. Named after a marquee season in 1999, this single-vineyard merlot is only produced in years when the season resembles the one from that nowlegendary harvest. Deep red, spicy and fruity, featuring soft, easy-to-drink tannins, this medium-bodied wine sets a high standard for what is possible in Brazil. For white grapes, chardonnay is Brazil’s most prevalent. Lidio Carraro’s winemaker Monica Rossetti has a beautiful one bottled under the Dádivas label from 2013. With a fabulous balance of acidity and minerality, this unoaked wine has tropical flourishes that are at once elegant and refreshing. “The main goal is to produce wines of great quality with a purity of fruit, which reminds you of their origins,” says Rossetti. The Miolo Wine Group, the largest domestic producer in Brazil, can trace its founder’s roots back to Italy. Its prized Lote 43, a robust merlot/cabernet sauvignon blend, is rich in intensity with everything from tobacco and truffle aromas to ripe tannins. The first vines for Lote 43 were planted in 1897 on the first piece of land that Miolo’s patriarch purchased. While they make up a smaller portion of countrywide production, sparkling wines are more popular among locals, who prefer colder, partyready beverages. Winemaker Gregório Salton of Vinícola Salton believes that this is where Brazil can really impact the international scene. “Chile and Argentina have their grapes, carménère and malbec, but Brazil is adopting the sparkling wine as its marquee product,” he says. Salton’s Intenso Sparkling Brut, crafted with chardonnay, prosecco and trebbiano grapes, is well-rounded, with a slight acidity and a touch of creaminess. Its aromas express notes of fruit with white pulp. Located less than an hour northeast of Vale dos Vinhedos in hilly Pinto Bandeira is another premier sparkling wine producer: Vinícola Geisse. Chilean winemaker Mario Geisse founded this plot of land back in 1979 after being tasked by Moët & Chandon to scout out grapegrowing opportunities in Brazil. Today, the Geisse brand produces high-quality sparkling wines and rosés using the traditional Champagne method, champenoise. Its sophisticated sparkling wine, Rosé Brut Terroir, is an absolute winner: the rich pinot noir—which was on the lees for four years—has an aroma of red berries with a high definition of strawberry preserves. The wine is elegant, bold and soft.
As Brazil’s only designation of origin, Vale dos Vinhedos has become the country’s most important wine destination.
ultratravel 55
SUMMER 2015
TEL AVIV
IBIZA
FUNEN
VENICE
YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON EARTH
INSIDER ACCESS:
ISTANBUL
CALIFORNIA COOL Palm Springs to Napa Valley Europe’s New CULINARY CAPITAL
U.S. EDITION
SECRET SHOPS, HIDDEN MARKETS, EMERGING NEIGHBORHOODS AND MORE!
+
Poppy Delevingne’s Summer Essentials Moby’s Foodie Fantasies Kelly Wearstler’s Literary Escapes
54 ultratravel
BRAZIL BY THE BOTTLE
The country of samba is South America’s next need-to-know wine destination. BY CHADNER NAVARRO
D PHOTO BY SILVIA TONON
iscerning oenophiles now have one more winemaking region to add to their travel plans: Brazil. Sure, the country is synonymous with golden beaches and exotic rainforests, but as of late, its southernmost region is putting Brazil on the map as one of South America’s largest and most promising wine producers. Admittedly, finding the best of Brazilian wines requires a bit of a trek—if you want them from the source. Brazil’s only designation of origin, Vale dos Vinhedos (Valley of the Vineyards), is in its southernmost state of Rio Grande do Sul in the lush mountainous region of Serra Gaúcha. But the excursion is worth it, as plenty of awardwinning wineries are working diligently to trump the caipirinha. Here are the labels to know. It was Italian immigrants who introduced winemaking to southern Brazil when they came toward the end of the 19th century and eventually cultivated Vitis vinifera in its soil. Today, Serra Gaúcha is most often lauded for its merlot, and Pizzato Vinhas e Vinhos’ DNA99 single-vineyard merlot from 2011 is one of the region’s finest. Named after a marquee season in 1999, this single-vineyard merlot is only produced in years when the season resembles the one from that nowlegendary harvest. Deep red, spicy and fruity, featuring soft, easy-to-drink tannins, this medium-bodied wine sets a high standard for what is possible in Brazil. For white grapes, chardonnay is Brazil’s most prevalent. Lidio Carraro’s winemaker Monica Rossetti has a beautiful one bottled under the Dádivas label from 2013. With a fabulous balance of acidity and minerality, this unoaked wine has tropical flourishes that are at once elegant and refreshing. “The main goal is to produce wines of great quality with a purity of fruit, which reminds you of their origins,” says Rossetti. The Miolo Wine Group, the largest domestic producer in Brazil, can trace its founder’s roots back to Italy. Its prized Lote 43, a robust merlot/cabernet sauvignon blend, is rich in intensity with everything from tobacco and truffle aromas to ripe tannins. The first vines for Lote 43 were planted in 1897 on the first piece of land that Miolo’s patriarch purchased. While they make up a smaller portion of countrywide production, sparkling wines are more popular among locals, who prefer colder, partyready beverages. Winemaker Gregório Salton of Vinícola Salton believes that this is where Brazil can really impact the international scene. “Chile and Argentina have their grapes, carménère and malbec, but Brazil is adopting the sparkling wine as its marquee product,” he says. Salton’s Intenso Sparkling Brut, crafted with chardonnay, prosecco and trebbiano grapes, is well-rounded, with a slight acidity and a touch of creaminess. Its aromas express notes of fruit with white pulp. Located less than an hour northeast of Vale dos Vinhedos in hilly Pinto Bandeira is another premier sparkling wine producer: Vinícola Geisse. Chilean winemaker Mario Geisse founded this plot of land back in 1979 after being tasked by Moët & Chandon to scout out grapegrowing opportunities in Brazil. Today, the Geisse brand produces high-quality sparkling wines and rosés using the traditional Champagne method, champenoise. Its sophisticated sparkling wine, Rosé Brut Terroir, is an absolute winner: the rich pinot noir—which was on the lees for four years—has an aroma of red berries with a high definition of strawberry preserves. The wine is elegant, bold and soft.
As Brazil’s only designation of origin, Vale dos Vinhedos has become the country’s most important wine destination.
ultratravel 55
