Jannu, north face attempt. The all-star team of Erhard Loretan ...
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Jannu , north f a c e attem pt. T he all-star team o f Erhard Loretan, Fredéric Roux, Ueli Steck, and Stefan Siegrist attempted the north face o f 7,710m Jannu but were defeated at around 7,100m by the storm s and heavy snow fall that plagued the Kangchenjunga region during the season. The team began early, reaching base camp at the end o f March. Although the lower pillar leading to the large ramp/snow basin at the foot o f the face was quite snowy, conditions higher looked good. In fairly settled weather at the start o f April the four had soon established ropes up to Cam p 1 and clim bed the basin to the foot o f the face at around 6,200m . Later, Cam p 2 was placed at this point. After discovering some o f Loretan’s ropes from the previous year, the climbers reached the big serac on the face around April 20. However, the weather then becam e increasingly unsettled with large dumps o f snow. M uch tim e was spent at base camp, and it wasn’t until the second week in May that they could resume the climb. By this stage the team had opted to climb the face by the easiest line. O n the night o f May 16 m ore bad weather moved in and a retreat becam e inevitable. W ith the m onsoon rapidly approaching, the team decided to throw in the towel and remove all their equipm ent and ropes on the descent. L in d s a y G
r if f in
,
H igh M ou ntain IN FO
a n g c h e n ju n g a
H
im a l
Jannu , north f a c e attem pt. T he all-star team o f Erhard Loretan, Fredéric Roux, Ueli Steck, and Stefan Siegrist attempted the north face o f 7,710m Jannu but were defeated at around 7,100m by the storm s and heavy snow fall that plagued the Kangchenjunga region during the season. The team began early, reaching base camp at the end o f March. Although the lower pillar leading to the large ramp/snow basin at the foot o f the face was quite snowy, conditions higher looked good. In fairly settled weather at the start o f April the four had soon established ropes up to Cam p 1 and clim bed the basin to the foot o f the face at around 6,200m . Later, Cam p 2 was placed at this point. After discovering some o f Loretan’s ropes from the previous year, the climbers reached the big serac on the face around April 20. However, the weather then becam e increasingly unsettled with large dumps o f snow. M uch tim e was spent at base camp, and it wasn’t until the second week in May that they could resume the climb. By this stage the team had opted to climb the face by the easiest line. O n the night o f May 16 m ore bad weather moved in and a retreat becam e inevitable. W ith the m onsoon rapidly approaching, the team decided to throw in the towel and remove all their equipm ent and ropes on the descent. L in d s a y G
r if f in
,
H igh M ou ntain IN FO
