Lofoten Islands July 2013
Lofoten Islands July 2013 Climber Team: Simon Kehrer and Helmut Gargitter from Italy, Federico Pisani and Ivan Calderon from Venezuela and Fernando Gonzalez Rubio by Colombia
Climbing Location: Lofoten Islands in North of Norway.
Lofoten Islands although if not so well considered, are offering several wild and vertical walls to motivated climbers for new routes and open space. In these 3 weeks the team was able to open two new routes and to repeat some classic one thanks to the good weather.
Gaitgalijen:
A new route has been traced on the south face of West Gaitgaljen of 108 5 m above sea level. In the 1997 some Italian team opened a new route but unfortunately up to approx. 2 shots below the summit. On 2011 Helmut Gargitter, Pauli Trenkwalder and Renato Botte on the same route tried to win the last wall but at the 5th they needed to make a pendulum to achieve the left the logical line to reach the top, unfortunately for lack of spit they had to give up and abseiling using some friend. On July 2013 the new team using same route succeeded to reach the summit winning the last and exposed step of 350 m above Austnesfjorden. The Gaitgaljen is one of the highest mountains of Lofoten islands and often is shrouded by dense clouds that envelop densely the rocks. This environmental situation is leaving the cracks very wet and make it impossible to climb and it can be done only after a couple of days of good weather. The new route was named “Trolls meets Latinos '' and is offering a large variety of climbing up from the cracks in the overhanging dihedral in a great granite rock. Declared difficulty is 7/7 + in Norwegian climbing stair corresponding to 7a in French one. The route was equipped only in the stops with spits but nothing else in between using friends and nut.
Breitflogtinden:
Another new route was opened on the Breitflogtinden a wall of 750 m at the bottom of Kirkefjord. This magnificent top shaped needle is very well glimpsed from the village called Reine. This mountain was climbed for the first time exactly 100 years ago along the west wall. For this reason the new route was named “One hundred Years later '' and is definitely one of the most beautiful route on the Lofoten Islands. Perfect cracks of every type and width that lead after 500 meters on top of the Breitflogtinden. Except for one shot even this route was uphill and has been rising in clean mode with movable guards. The route was graded 7+ in Norwegian scale or 7a+ in French scale with the descent by double ropes. By Franco Mucchietto _ Manager of Simon Kehrer Photos Gallery:
Climbing Location: Lofoten Islands in North of Norway.
Lofoten Islands although if not so well considered, are offering several wild and vertical walls to motivated climbers for new routes and open space. In these 3 weeks the team was able to open two new routes and to repeat some classic one thanks to the good weather.
Gaitgalijen:
A new route has been traced on the south face of West Gaitgaljen of 108 5 m above sea level. In the 1997 some Italian team opened a new route but unfortunately up to approx. 2 shots below the summit. On 2011 Helmut Gargitter, Pauli Trenkwalder and Renato Botte on the same route tried to win the last wall but at the 5th they needed to make a pendulum to achieve the left the logical line to reach the top, unfortunately for lack of spit they had to give up and abseiling using some friend. On July 2013 the new team using same route succeeded to reach the summit winning the last and exposed step of 350 m above Austnesfjorden. The Gaitgaljen is one of the highest mountains of Lofoten islands and often is shrouded by dense clouds that envelop densely the rocks. This environmental situation is leaving the cracks very wet and make it impossible to climb and it can be done only after a couple of days of good weather. The new route was named “Trolls meets Latinos '' and is offering a large variety of climbing up from the cracks in the overhanging dihedral in a great granite rock. Declared difficulty is 7/7 + in Norwegian climbing stair corresponding to 7a in French one. The route was equipped only in the stops with spits but nothing else in between using friends and nut.
Breitflogtinden:
Another new route was opened on the Breitflogtinden a wall of 750 m at the bottom of Kirkefjord. This magnificent top shaped needle is very well glimpsed from the village called Reine. This mountain was climbed for the first time exactly 100 years ago along the west wall. For this reason the new route was named “One hundred Years later '' and is definitely one of the most beautiful route on the Lofoten Islands. Perfect cracks of every type and width that lead after 500 meters on top of the Breitflogtinden. Except for one shot even this route was uphill and has been rising in clean mode with movable guards. The route was graded 7+ in Norwegian scale or 7a+ in French scale with the descent by double ropes. By Franco Mucchietto _ Manager of Simon Kehrer Photos Gallery:
