luminosity redefined
making of luxury
T
LUMINOSITY REDEFINED
2
3 4
5
1. 1 2. 3. 4. 5.
Naval pursuits underwater with soldiers armed with Panerai equipment Panerai watches performed well in extreme conditions (aboard the Veliero) The Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days with a 47 mm dial and minimalist design The Radiomir California 3 Days with a similar 47 mm with only 500 units created A 1938 version of the Radiomir with a typical Panerai dial style
atelier
IMAGING BY VIKAS SHARMA
1
watches with the Radiomir becoming the first underwater model functioning at 200-metre depths in the history of horology. At the same time, radioactive Radiomir is replaced by Luminor, isotope of tritiumbased hydrogen, patented by Panerai for the first time in Italy in 1949. The genus of this first creation is timelessly visible in the modern-day tribute watches – Radiomir California 3 Days and the Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days. Many of the characteristics of the original are retained in these models – the same cushion steel case with a 47 mm diameter, the slender wire-strap attachments, the conical crown and the simple dial reduced to essentials to increase legibility to the maximum even in conditions of very poor light. The Radiomir California 3 Days has a dial conforming certainly to the first one fitted to the Radiomir case, almost identical with its alternation of markers, Arabic figures and Roman numerals. The design of the dial is enhanced by the OP logo, the inscription ‘California’ engraved on the flange at 12 o’clock and the little date window at 3 o’clock. On the other hand, the Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days also has a strongly minimalist design sensibility, with alternating bar and dot-shaped hour markers. The S.L.C stands ffor ‘Siluro a Lento Corsa’, the slow-speed ttorpedo on which the commandos of tthe Royal Italian Navy rode during their h heroic underwater missions, equipped with P Panerai watches and instruments. The dial ffeatures a slow-speed tornado in relief and tthe letters S.L.C is engraved on the flange aat 12 o’clock. As the house skilfully met tthe demands of modern-day technology, tthe movements for these new versions w were redefined. Both models are fitted w with the sophisticated P.3000 manufacture ccalibre developed in the Officine Panerai m manufacture. With a diameter of 16.5 lignes, the P.3000 has the typical structure of large bridges, two spring barrels giving a power reserve of three days and a balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter with variable inertia, enabling the rate of the watch to be adjusted through external screws on the rim. The movement is visible through the crystal on the back. Both these watches form a part of the Historic Collection of Panerai and are supplied with a cambered sapphire crystal and a brown leather strap fastened by a polished steel buckle inspired by period models. •
l
72
The Radiomir was developed due to the patronage of the Royal Italian Navy, a legacy that clearly defines the watch even now
After being subjected to multiple innovations, the Radiomir became the first model functioning at 200-metre depths in the history of horology.
2012 l november
atelier l november l 2012
Officine Panerai’s legendary watch creation Radiomir is a matter of national pride for the Italians. Reinvented to become a coveted luxury possession with an iconic history, Maleeka Kashyap traces the brand’s timekeeping journey.
he art of watchmaking, one may say, has always been monopolised by the Swiss. Then you have the Italians, harmonising together the best of Swiss expertise enveloped with indigenous statements that create true, powerful sensations. A legacy masterminded by Giovanni Panerai, this Italian saga began in 1860 with the first watchmaker’s shop in Florence on the Ponte alle Grazie, which established contact with the most prestigious and longest established Swiss watch manufacturers of that time. Now, 152 years later, the house of Officine Panerai is a name to reckon with when it comes to fine timekeeping. By 1900, Panerai had become the official supplier to the Royal Italian Navy. Decades of experimentation with movements, mechanisms and materials delivered masterpieces time and again, with histories as diverse as of the house itself. The experimentation with materials went the luminous route in 1910, and the brand developed a system to make instrument dials, sighting and telescopic devices luminous. The luminosity is achieved using a mix of zinc sulphide and radium bromide, later given the name Radiomir, which is to become one of the most iconic watch series Panerai is known for. Due to the ongoing relation with the Royal Italian Navy, Panerai was asked to develop a watch that would be able to withstand extreme conditions that it might be subjected to on the sensitive front, which other watches available at the time failed. Thus in 1936 was born the first d prototype of the Radiomir watch submitted to the Command of the First Submarine Group – and it surpassed all expectations. This first original had many of the featuress which still distinguish the new generation versions today. The timepiece had a large steel cushion-shaped case measuring 47 mm, luminous numerals and markers, wire loop strap attachments welded to the case, a hand-wound mechanical movement, and a wide water-resistant strap that was long enough to be fastened over the diving suit of underwater exploiters. In 1938 began the first production for the Navy, with the typical Panerai dial style. To take this watch to the next level, the Radiomir was subjected to multiple innovations that elevated its performance – this produced more resistant, water-tight
73
T
LUMINOSITY REDEFINED
2
3 4
5
1. 1 2. 3. 4. 5.
Naval pursuits underwater with soldiers armed with Panerai equipment Panerai watches performed well in extreme conditions (aboard the Veliero) The Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days with a 47 mm dial and minimalist design The Radiomir California 3 Days with a similar 47 mm with only 500 units created A 1938 version of the Radiomir with a typical Panerai dial style
atelier
IMAGING BY VIKAS SHARMA
1
watches with the Radiomir becoming the first underwater model functioning at 200-metre depths in the history of horology. At the same time, radioactive Radiomir is replaced by Luminor, isotope of tritiumbased hydrogen, patented by Panerai for the first time in Italy in 1949. The genus of this first creation is timelessly visible in the modern-day tribute watches – Radiomir California 3 Days and the Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days. Many of the characteristics of the original are retained in these models – the same cushion steel case with a 47 mm diameter, the slender wire-strap attachments, the conical crown and the simple dial reduced to essentials to increase legibility to the maximum even in conditions of very poor light. The Radiomir California 3 Days has a dial conforming certainly to the first one fitted to the Radiomir case, almost identical with its alternation of markers, Arabic figures and Roman numerals. The design of the dial is enhanced by the OP logo, the inscription ‘California’ engraved on the flange at 12 o’clock and the little date window at 3 o’clock. On the other hand, the Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days also has a strongly minimalist design sensibility, with alternating bar and dot-shaped hour markers. The S.L.C stands ffor ‘Siluro a Lento Corsa’, the slow-speed ttorpedo on which the commandos of tthe Royal Italian Navy rode during their h heroic underwater missions, equipped with P Panerai watches and instruments. The dial ffeatures a slow-speed tornado in relief and tthe letters S.L.C is engraved on the flange aat 12 o’clock. As the house skilfully met tthe demands of modern-day technology, tthe movements for these new versions w were redefined. Both models are fitted w with the sophisticated P.3000 manufacture ccalibre developed in the Officine Panerai m manufacture. With a diameter of 16.5 lignes, the P.3000 has the typical structure of large bridges, two spring barrels giving a power reserve of three days and a balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter with variable inertia, enabling the rate of the watch to be adjusted through external screws on the rim. The movement is visible through the crystal on the back. Both these watches form a part of the Historic Collection of Panerai and are supplied with a cambered sapphire crystal and a brown leather strap fastened by a polished steel buckle inspired by period models. •
l
72
The Radiomir was developed due to the patronage of the Royal Italian Navy, a legacy that clearly defines the watch even now
After being subjected to multiple innovations, the Radiomir became the first model functioning at 200-metre depths in the history of horology.
2012 l november
atelier l november l 2012
Officine Panerai’s legendary watch creation Radiomir is a matter of national pride for the Italians. Reinvented to become a coveted luxury possession with an iconic history, Maleeka Kashyap traces the brand’s timekeeping journey.
he art of watchmaking, one may say, has always been monopolised by the Swiss. Then you have the Italians, harmonising together the best of Swiss expertise enveloped with indigenous statements that create true, powerful sensations. A legacy masterminded by Giovanni Panerai, this Italian saga began in 1860 with the first watchmaker’s shop in Florence on the Ponte alle Grazie, which established contact with the most prestigious and longest established Swiss watch manufacturers of that time. Now, 152 years later, the house of Officine Panerai is a name to reckon with when it comes to fine timekeeping. By 1900, Panerai had become the official supplier to the Royal Italian Navy. Decades of experimentation with movements, mechanisms and materials delivered masterpieces time and again, with histories as diverse as of the house itself. The experimentation with materials went the luminous route in 1910, and the brand developed a system to make instrument dials, sighting and telescopic devices luminous. The luminosity is achieved using a mix of zinc sulphide and radium bromide, later given the name Radiomir, which is to become one of the most iconic watch series Panerai is known for. Due to the ongoing relation with the Royal Italian Navy, Panerai was asked to develop a watch that would be able to withstand extreme conditions that it might be subjected to on the sensitive front, which other watches available at the time failed. Thus in 1936 was born the first d prototype of the Radiomir watch submitted to the Command of the First Submarine Group – and it surpassed all expectations. This first original had many of the featuress which still distinguish the new generation versions today. The timepiece had a large steel cushion-shaped case measuring 47 mm, luminous numerals and markers, wire loop strap attachments welded to the case, a hand-wound mechanical movement, and a wide water-resistant strap that was long enough to be fastened over the diving suit of underwater exploiters. In 1938 began the first production for the Navy, with the typical Panerai dial style. To take this watch to the next level, the Radiomir was subjected to multiple innovations that elevated its performance – this produced more resistant, water-tight
73
