lyman folding utility clamp - Thingiverse
LYMAN FOLDING UTILITY CLAMP CONSTRUCTION MANUAL
Hugh Lyman Inventor
The LYMAN MINIATURE LED LAMP inspired this LYMAN FOLDING UTILITY CLAMP.
Photo 1
Holds a Printed Circuit Board for soldering. The Lamp is helpful.
Photo 2
Photo 4 Splice two wires together with ease. I am retiring the Lyman Wire Splicer and now use these two clamps. The clothes pins are much easier to clamp than small alligator clips.
Photo 3
The shape of the pins are perfect for holding the LED bulb and a switch. Note that I have sanded the ends of the pins to a beveled point.
The LYMAN FOLDING UTILITY CLAMP is an open source product licensed under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4/0/ 1
PARTS: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Photo 5
Base Right Arm Left Arm Center Arm Pin Bracket 3 ea M3 Brass Inserts 3 ea M3 x 20mm SHCS Lead Box (not shown) 2 ea #2 x 1/2” PHSMS (not shown)
Resize holes in each part for 3mm cap screws (SHCS).
Photo 6
In the Right Arm dress the enlarged hole at each end to 5mm diameter and a depth of 4mm to receive the brass inserts.
Photo 7
In the Left Arm dress the enlarged hole at each end to 6mm diameter and a depth of 4mm to receive the head of the cap screws.
Photo 8
Photo 9 Photo 9 illustrates the arms from Left to Right and Center. The inside of the Left and Right Arms have a 0.40mm standoff at each end so they fit better without binding.
Insert the M3 Brass Insert at each end of the Right Arm. I like to thread a cap screw in the insert about one turn so I can pull it into the 5mm hole and align perpendicular to the arm with the screw. Photo 10 shows using a soldering iron to heat the insert.
Photo 11 illustrates heating the insert with a mini torch. I mostly use this method. I heat the insert for about 7 seconds and pull into the hole and make sure it is aligned perpendicular to the Arm.
Photo 10
Photo 11
Photo 12 Photo 11 illustrates the assembly of the 3 arms. Note the lug on the Center Arm points up when attached to the Base. Yeh, I attached it wrong the first time and the lug pointed down.
Assemble the Arms to the Base and the Pin Bracket to the Center Arm. Tighten the Cap Screws to where you can rotate the arms. Option: Apply a drop of red thread lock in the insert to prevent the screw from turning.
Photo 13
This is the first time I tried casting lead into a ABS box. The Lead Box is sized to fit into the Base.
Photo 14 I printed a water tank 100 x 100 x 45mm. Then I applied solvent cement on it to waterproof it. In the bottom I fit two popsicle sticks on edge for standoffs. Place the Lead Box on the standoffs, fill the tank with ice cubes. Next clamp the box to the tank with a clothes pin so it won’t float and add water up near the top edge of the box.
Photo 15
Place the box area under the lead heater spout and fill the box with lead. Leave it set till it cools down before moving. I removed it too soon and got water in the box which promptly sizzled and deformed the lead top surface. As the lead pours into the box the sides will bow out a little. As it cools the sides will concave in a little. You can detect that in Photo 14 and 15.
Photo 16 After cooling I sanded the Lead Box so it fit into the Base with ease and placed it with the bottom up. Add a few drops of solvent cement in the joints and it is there to stay.
4
Next, attach the clothes pin to the Pin Bracket with 2 #2 x 1/2” screws.
Photo 17
I am making a third clamp now and I plan to set a Brass Insert in the center of the Pin Bracket and attach it with one M3x10mm Cap Screw. This will allow the clothes pin to rotate 360°.
With photo spray adhesive I mounted sandpaper to the bottom of my clamps to keep them from sliding around on my epoxy coated work top.
Photo 18
Photo 20
Photo 19
Note: Left Clamp is made using Locknuts in place of Brass Inserts. GREAT!! We are done. Happy tinkering.
5
Hugh Lyman Inventor
The LYMAN MINIATURE LED LAMP inspired this LYMAN FOLDING UTILITY CLAMP.
Photo 1
Holds a Printed Circuit Board for soldering. The Lamp is helpful.
Photo 2
Photo 4 Splice two wires together with ease. I am retiring the Lyman Wire Splicer and now use these two clamps. The clothes pins are much easier to clamp than small alligator clips.
Photo 3
The shape of the pins are perfect for holding the LED bulb and a switch. Note that I have sanded the ends of the pins to a beveled point.
The LYMAN FOLDING UTILITY CLAMP is an open source product licensed under http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4/0/ 1
PARTS: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Photo 5
Base Right Arm Left Arm Center Arm Pin Bracket 3 ea M3 Brass Inserts 3 ea M3 x 20mm SHCS Lead Box (not shown) 2 ea #2 x 1/2” PHSMS (not shown)
Resize holes in each part for 3mm cap screws (SHCS).
Photo 6
In the Right Arm dress the enlarged hole at each end to 5mm diameter and a depth of 4mm to receive the brass inserts.
Photo 7
In the Left Arm dress the enlarged hole at each end to 6mm diameter and a depth of 4mm to receive the head of the cap screws.
Photo 8
Photo 9 Photo 9 illustrates the arms from Left to Right and Center. The inside of the Left and Right Arms have a 0.40mm standoff at each end so they fit better without binding.
Insert the M3 Brass Insert at each end of the Right Arm. I like to thread a cap screw in the insert about one turn so I can pull it into the 5mm hole and align perpendicular to the arm with the screw. Photo 10 shows using a soldering iron to heat the insert.
Photo 11 illustrates heating the insert with a mini torch. I mostly use this method. I heat the insert for about 7 seconds and pull into the hole and make sure it is aligned perpendicular to the Arm.
Photo 10
Photo 11
Photo 12 Photo 11 illustrates the assembly of the 3 arms. Note the lug on the Center Arm points up when attached to the Base. Yeh, I attached it wrong the first time and the lug pointed down.
Assemble the Arms to the Base and the Pin Bracket to the Center Arm. Tighten the Cap Screws to where you can rotate the arms. Option: Apply a drop of red thread lock in the insert to prevent the screw from turning.
Photo 13
This is the first time I tried casting lead into a ABS box. The Lead Box is sized to fit into the Base.
Photo 14 I printed a water tank 100 x 100 x 45mm. Then I applied solvent cement on it to waterproof it. In the bottom I fit two popsicle sticks on edge for standoffs. Place the Lead Box on the standoffs, fill the tank with ice cubes. Next clamp the box to the tank with a clothes pin so it won’t float and add water up near the top edge of the box.
Photo 15
Place the box area under the lead heater spout and fill the box with lead. Leave it set till it cools down before moving. I removed it too soon and got water in the box which promptly sizzled and deformed the lead top surface. As the lead pours into the box the sides will bow out a little. As it cools the sides will concave in a little. You can detect that in Photo 14 and 15.
Photo 16 After cooling I sanded the Lead Box so it fit into the Base with ease and placed it with the bottom up. Add a few drops of solvent cement in the joints and it is there to stay.
4
Next, attach the clothes pin to the Pin Bracket with 2 #2 x 1/2” screws.
Photo 17
I am making a third clamp now and I plan to set a Brass Insert in the center of the Pin Bracket and attach it with one M3x10mm Cap Screw. This will allow the clothes pin to rotate 360°.
With photo spray adhesive I mounted sandpaper to the bottom of my clamps to keep them from sliding around on my epoxy coated work top.
Photo 18
Photo 20
Photo 19
Note: Left Clamp is made using Locknuts in place of Brass Inserts. GREAT!! We are done. Happy tinkering.
5
