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TRAVELS A view across central Madrid, with the Beaux Arts Metropolis Building In the foreground.
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Insiders share their tips-including where to find the chicest shops and best restaurants-for getting the most out of Spain's enthralling capital city
u t as dashing new monarchs King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia have ascended to the Span.ish throne, a b\:eeze of fresh energy is
blowing through the capital city of Madrid. After the previous decade's fran tic boom-and-bust period of massive development-from parks and museums to office and residential towers and a sparkling airport terminal-followed by a crushing recession, the city is catching up to itself. The dust has settled, and Madrid has emerged with an enterprising spirit and a new diversity that make it, more than ever, a must-visit destination. 116
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The Prado, Reina Sofia, and Thyssen Bornemisza museums, the city's aug11st trio of temples to Western art, have all expanded, while the striking Herzog & de Meuron-designed Ca.ixaForum arts cen ter opened in a converted power station. The Museo Cerralbo and Museo Sorolla, charmingly quirky house museums, have been polished up and once again evoke the refinement and ambition of Madrid a cen tu1y ago. And while the city that seduced Hemingway with stalwart traditions like afternoon bullfights and 11 P.M. dinners is still alive, the Madrid of today is decidedly younger, hipper, and more multicultural.
Relations between the U.S. and Spain got a stylish boost with the arrival last year of American ambassador James Costas and his partner, Michael S. Smith, the designer who crafted interiors for the Obama White House. Not long after landing here, Smith set about sprucing up the emissary's residence, filling it with a worldly mix of art by the likes of Josef Albers and Ed Ruscha. "I didn't expect to love Madrid as much as I do;' says Smith, who celebrated his 50th birthday earlier this year at the Ritz, the grande-dame hotel next to the Prado. "James and I travel a lot, and sometimes
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