Mustagh Ata. In September John Amatt, leader, Lloyd Gallagher, Pat ...

M ustagh A ta. In Septem ber John A m att, leader, Lloyd Gallagher, P at M orrow and I journeyed to the western flank of M ustagh Ata. We ascended the broad “writing-desk” slopes, choosing a route one glacier system south of th at climbed in 1980 by N ed G illette’s party. (See A .A .J., 1981, pages 71-81.) We took camels to Base Cam p at 14,300 feet near the Chal Tum ak G lacier on Septem ber 5 and the next day three of them carried to 15,000 feet. Initial poor w eather and a storm slowed progress. Loud thum ps as the snow settled kept us nervous. G allagher, M orrow and I reached the sum m it in clear but windy w eather on Septem ber 16. This may be a new route. W e ascended and descended on skis; M orrow used nordic skis and we other two, traditional ski-m ountaineering skis. U p high, the snow was wind-blown and crusty w ith only a few feet covering the ice. St e p h e n B ezr u c h k a