Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota; Huascarán from the east. A ...
N u d o A yacach i, C o rd iller a V ilc a n o ta ; H u ascará n fr o m th e east. A strong Spanish party sponsored by the Federación Españ ola de la M ontañ a and led by F é lix M éndez Torres established Base Camp on Ju n e 12 at 1 5 ,0 0 0 feet southeast o f Coylloriti
(1 7 ,7 2 3
f e e t ) , which Salvador Rivas and
A ntonio Pérez Ayuso clim bed soon after their arrival. T h e group made in all some 36 first ascents; these included the peaks they called “H auser” ( 1 7 ,2 5 7 fe e t ), P 1 6 ,8 3 1 , “Guadarram a” (1 6 ,5 6 8 fe e t) and P 1 6 ,5 6 8 on the ridge southwest o f C o y llo riti; two peaks o f 1 7 ,5 0 3 feet on the ridge northwest o f the p eak ; P 1 7 ,2 2 5 on the southeast rid g e; and P 1 7 ,4 8 7 , P 1 7 ,4 2 2 and P 1 7 ,1 2 6 on the ridge running to the northeast. O n the southernmost o f the two ridges which tend from northwest to southeast from
C oylloriti’s northeast
ridge
they clim bed
(fro m
west
to
east)
P 1 7 ,3 8 9 , P 1 7 ,2 4 1 , P 1 7 ,1 5 9 , P 1 7 ,0 6 1 , P 1 7 ,2 2 5 , P 1 7 ,2 5 7 , another P
1 7 ,2 5 7 , another P
1 7 ,1 5 9 ,
another two P
1 7 ,2 2 5
and
“Cataluñ a”
(1 7 ,2 9 0 f e e t). O n the ridge roughly parallel which lies to the north they ascended (fro m west to east) “B arcelona” ( 1 7 ,8 1 5 f e e t ) , “M ontserrat” (1 7 ,8 1 5 fe e t), P 1 7 ,8 1 5 , P 1 8 ,1 4 3 , P 1 7 ,3 8 9 , P 1 7 ,2 2 5 , P 1 7 ,0 6 1 and another P 1 7 ,2 2 5 . They clim bed the southernmost peak
(1 6 ,7 3 3
fe e t)
o f a spur that extends southeast from the ridge. They also ascended on the extension o f the main ridge, which juts north and then east, “Punta A ragon” “España”
( 1 6 ,8 9 7 (1 7 ,1 2 6
fe e t), fe e t),
“N uestra P
Señ ora
1 7 ,1 2 6 , P
del P ila r”
(1 7 ,0 6 1
1 7 ,4 8 7 another P
fe e t),
1 7 ,1 2 6 and
P 1 7 ,0 9 3 . A map which appeared in R ivista M en s ile N o. 9 / 1 0 o f 1961 makes clear which peaks these are but gives many names which Peruvian officials have indicated are not acceptable and w ill not be adopted. W h ich are the second ascents made by the Japanese (see below ) is not clear. César M orales Arnao, who supplied most o f the above inform ation to the Editor, continues as follow s: “They then moved to the Cordillera Blanca to clim b the extrem ely difficult eastern route o f H uascarán which had been unsuccessfully attempted by the N ew Zealanders a year before. ( A .A .J ., 1961, 1 2 :2 , pp. 2 8 8 -2 9 0 .)
O n July 10 they placed their base between
H uascarán and Chopicalqui and in the follow ing days fixing ropes and clim bing with direct aid, they prepared a route o f technical difficulty at considerable risk. Thus on July 18 Rivas, Ayuso and Pedro A cuñ a and the Peruvian, Fortunato M autino, reached the south summit o f Huascarán (2 2 ,2 0 5 fe e t ) . A nother group made up o f Jo sé M anuel Anglada, Jorge Pons and Francisco G uillam ó n conquered H uascarán again on the 20th, m aking three bivouacs. U nfortunately while
descending the Raim ondi
G lacier on the western side, Pedro A cunñ a fe ll into a crevasse and perished. They also climbed the Nevados E lola ( 1 8 ,5 3 7 fe e t) and D elgado U beda (1 8 ,2 0 9 f e e t ) , elegant prominences on the western ridge o f Huascarán to Chopicalqui.” O ther members o f the party were D r. M ariano Arrazola, Jo sé M aría R egil, José A ntonio Bescós and Juan Jo sé D íaz.
(1 7 ,7 2 3
f e e t ) , which Salvador Rivas and
A ntonio Pérez Ayuso clim bed soon after their arrival. T h e group made in all some 36 first ascents; these included the peaks they called “H auser” ( 1 7 ,2 5 7 fe e t ), P 1 6 ,8 3 1 , “Guadarram a” (1 6 ,5 6 8 fe e t) and P 1 6 ,5 6 8 on the ridge southwest o f C o y llo riti; two peaks o f 1 7 ,5 0 3 feet on the ridge northwest o f the p eak ; P 1 7 ,2 2 5 on the southeast rid g e; and P 1 7 ,4 8 7 , P 1 7 ,4 2 2 and P 1 7 ,1 2 6 on the ridge running to the northeast. O n the southernmost o f the two ridges which tend from northwest to southeast from
C oylloriti’s northeast
ridge
they clim bed
(fro m
west
to
east)
P 1 7 ,3 8 9 , P 1 7 ,2 4 1 , P 1 7 ,1 5 9 , P 1 7 ,0 6 1 , P 1 7 ,2 2 5 , P 1 7 ,2 5 7 , another P
1 7 ,2 5 7 , another P
1 7 ,1 5 9 ,
another two P
1 7 ,2 2 5
and
“Cataluñ a”
(1 7 ,2 9 0 f e e t). O n the ridge roughly parallel which lies to the north they ascended (fro m west to east) “B arcelona” ( 1 7 ,8 1 5 f e e t ) , “M ontserrat” (1 7 ,8 1 5 fe e t), P 1 7 ,8 1 5 , P 1 8 ,1 4 3 , P 1 7 ,3 8 9 , P 1 7 ,2 2 5 , P 1 7 ,0 6 1 and another P 1 7 ,2 2 5 . They clim bed the southernmost peak
(1 6 ,7 3 3
fe e t)
o f a spur that extends southeast from the ridge. They also ascended on the extension o f the main ridge, which juts north and then east, “Punta A ragon” “España”
( 1 6 ,8 9 7 (1 7 ,1 2 6
fe e t), fe e t),
“N uestra P
Señ ora
1 7 ,1 2 6 , P
del P ila r”
(1 7 ,0 6 1
1 7 ,4 8 7 another P
fe e t),
1 7 ,1 2 6 and
P 1 7 ,0 9 3 . A map which appeared in R ivista M en s ile N o. 9 / 1 0 o f 1961 makes clear which peaks these are but gives many names which Peruvian officials have indicated are not acceptable and w ill not be adopted. W h ich are the second ascents made by the Japanese (see below ) is not clear. César M orales Arnao, who supplied most o f the above inform ation to the Editor, continues as follow s: “They then moved to the Cordillera Blanca to clim b the extrem ely difficult eastern route o f H uascarán which had been unsuccessfully attempted by the N ew Zealanders a year before. ( A .A .J ., 1961, 1 2 :2 , pp. 2 8 8 -2 9 0 .)
O n July 10 they placed their base between
H uascarán and Chopicalqui and in the follow ing days fixing ropes and clim bing with direct aid, they prepared a route o f technical difficulty at considerable risk. Thus on July 18 Rivas, Ayuso and Pedro A cuñ a and the Peruvian, Fortunato M autino, reached the south summit o f Huascarán (2 2 ,2 0 5 fe e t ) . A nother group made up o f Jo sé M anuel Anglada, Jorge Pons and Francisco G uillam ó n conquered H uascarán again on the 20th, m aking three bivouacs. U nfortunately while
descending the Raim ondi
G lacier on the western side, Pedro A cunñ a fe ll into a crevasse and perished. They also climbed the Nevados E lola ( 1 8 ,5 3 7 fe e t) and D elgado U beda (1 8 ,2 0 9 f e e t ) , elegant prominences on the western ridge o f Huascarán to Chopicalqui.” O ther members o f the party were D r. M ariano Arrazola, Jo sé M aría R egil, José A ntonio Bescós and Juan Jo sé D íaz.
