P 19,200 Betw een Bualtar and Barpu Glaciers. Our expedition was ...
P 19,200 Betw een Bualtar and Barpu Glaciers. O ur expedition was com posed o f C olonel R ichard H. H ardie, C aptain John Jam es F. Farquharson, L ieu tenant Peter R obson, Lance C orporal A nthony W illiam s, T roopers Stephen W illiam s, Sim on Prince and U lrich R o m f and me as leader. O ur objective was an unnam ed peak o f 19,200 feet (5852 m eters) in the R akaposhi R ange o f the K arakoram . [The m ountain clim bed lies 16 m iles due w est o f R akaposhi. It is ju st south o f a peak w hich is show n on Baltit N J 43-14 Series U 502 o f the US A rm y M ap Service as being 19,625 feet (5982 m eters) high. O n m any other m aps, how ever, the altitude o f the latter peak is given as 5669 m eters (18,600 feet). The peak clim bed m ay therefore be som ew hat low er than 19,200 feet.— Editor .] All British m em bers reached the sum m it via the northw est
ridge. Base C am p was established at 14,000 feet on July 3 ju st below the snout o f the K oro G lacier. The route to C am p I bypassed the glacier by contouring across snowfields on the northw est side o f the glacier. C am p I was placed on July 6 at 16,000 feet on the bend o f the K oro G lacier. C am p II, a snow cave at 18,200 feet, was placed above tw o icefalls on July 8. W e put in 600 feet o f fixed rope in the upper icefall. From there we clim bed 200 feet to the north col and then follow ed the northw est ridge, steep in places, to the top. The sum m it was reached on July 13 by H ardie and Prince, on July 14 by F arquharson, S. and A. W illiam s and on July 15 by R obson, R om f and me. A
l is t a ir
M
R
oxburgh
,
Lieutenant, Queens Dragoon Guards
ridge. Base C am p was established at 14,000 feet on July 3 ju st below the snout o f the K oro G lacier. The route to C am p I bypassed the glacier by contouring across snowfields on the northw est side o f the glacier. C am p I was placed on July 6 at 16,000 feet on the bend o f the K oro G lacier. C am p II, a snow cave at 18,200 feet, was placed above tw o icefalls on July 8. W e put in 600 feet o f fixed rope in the upper icefall. From there we clim bed 200 feet to the north col and then follow ed the northw est ridge, steep in places, to the top. The sum m it was reached on July 13 by H ardie and Prince, on July 14 by F arquharson, S. and A. W illiam s and on July 15 by R obson, R om f and me. A
l is t a ir
M
R
oxburgh
,
Lieutenant, Queens Dragoon Guards
