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THE WORLD’S HIGHEST-PAID FEMALE ATHLETES S E P TE MBE R 2013 IS S UE 17

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CULTURED Abdulla Al Suwaidi co-founder of RAK Pearls Holding is breathing life back into a regional legacy

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LIFE LUXURY TRAVEL

Paradise Found Have an otherworldly experience on Villingili Island, the southernmost destination in the Maldives and a Shangri-La resort.

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By Nina Glinski

82 FORBES MIDDLE EAST SEPTEMBER 2013

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very mind’s eye holds an image of what heaven looks like. For the vast majority, this picture of after-life paradise bears a striking resemblance to the Maldives. With their white sand beaches and pristine waters, the more than one thousand islands of the equatorial country have become a haven for those seeking an ethereal experience. On Villingili, where a perfect remote jungle island atmosphere is met with the expert touch of Shangri-La’s world-class staff, paradise is not just a place to go but also a state of mind. Whether you are seeking to pamper yourself rotten with spa treatments and culinary delights, dive on wrecks, or simply enjoy the seclusion of a private tree house overlooking the flawless Indian Ocean, you will find your own personal heaven on the exclusive island. From the moment you step onto the island’s dock and hand off the baby coconut you’ve been sipping from, there is a sense that you’ve done something right in life to have made it there. And then you pinch yourself, just to be sure. Perhaps the inflated sense of arrival comes from being ushered from a small speedboat into what can only Forbes Middle East’s Nina Glinski exploring the best of the Maldives by bicycle. be described as a palatial tiki hut that serves as the island’s lobby. Or maybe it’s the white-clad staff, who bow, hand there was a bizarre waking dream. As come out of a thoroughly relaxing hot on heart, before escorting you to your I coasted on a complimentary white cowrie-shell massage with coconut private villa via golf cart, attentively bicycle through a diligently manicured oil all over us, or finished up a woeful noting your dinner tastes,From every quirky jungle on that first day, every third match of badminton in the hot sun, the the moment you step onto the island’s dock and hand off the baby coconut you’ve been bikes had our hearts and we would ride I released wassomething one of those need and your overall disposition inthere an is breath sipping from, a sense that you’ve done right deepin life to have made it there. attempt to understand how to better ly contented sighs reserved for new love them faithfully. On our most memorable morning, and total relaxation. serve you. Apparently, my version of heaven Charles managed to coax me out of bed As a typical American, I had always considered the Maldives the des- involves spending a lot of time riding with the smell of espresso to catch dawn tination of a lifetime—an inaccessible around on bicycles. In addition to fill- at the best vantage point on the island paradise reserved for indulgent hon- ing my pantry with an ample supply of for a Technicolor sunrise; the first tee at eymooners and jet setting billionaires. “strong” Nespresso k-cups, the Shangri- the Maldives’ one and only golf course. That was, until I moved from New York La staff noted an unbridled enthusiasm At 5:30 a.m. on an island designed for to Dubai, which could not be more ide- for using the bicycle rather than foot or tranquility rather than pre-dawn alarm ally located to reach the getaway nation. golf cart to explore the three-kilometer ringing and strenuous activity, this was a true test of willpower. When flydubai launched its route to the island resort, regardless of activity. As we tore down the sand pathways It didn’t matter if my partner capital city of Malé in January 2013, it Charles and I had just gorged ourselves on our beloved bicycles from one end seemed heaven-sent. Having spent almost a year fantasiz- silly on a five-course, five-star meal at of the island to the other in the quiet of ing about the Maldives, actually being one of the island’s three restaurants, predawn I reflected on the moments of SEPTEMBER 2013 FORBES MIDDLE EAST 83

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LIFE — LUXURY TRAVEL

the trip that had transformed the fantasy of the Maldivian paradise into a fond memory. We biked past the best location for snorkeling on the island, along one of the docks of Villingili’s iconic stilted water villas. The azure water, teeming with marine life, finds baby sharks, manta rays, sea turtles and giant napoleon fish going about their business. We had also kayaked in the atoll, went on a diving excursion and a dolphin cruise during our stay, but the shallow water made for the best ‘fish in your face’ voyeurism. Continuing along the path, we passed banyan trees, lagoons and mangrove forests. Only the night before had a trail been illuminated by tiki torches 84 FORBES MIDDLE EAST SEPTEMBER 2013

At the jungle clearing, the skinny North end of the island leads to more idyllic water villas and ultimately the nine-hole golf course, where the sunrise awaited specifically for our private dinner in the jungle; we had enjoyed one of the Shangri-La Villingili’s unique “dine by design” experiences. Seated at a white clothed table under the canopy of an

impressive banyan tree with a chef at work just around the tree’s massive trunk, we wiled away three hours in candlelit conversation, enchanted by the romantic, mosquito-free jungle atmosphere and exceptional seafood and service. At the jungle clearing, the skinny North end of the island leads to more idyllic water villas and ultimately the nine-hole golf course, where the sunrise awaited. The colors of a Villingili sunrise are remarkably different from Dubai’s monochrome haze, first illuminating low hanging clouds in the softest pink, then filling the clear sky with robust purple and crimson. The fish are the first to wake, disturbing the surfaces of

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The Maldives’ one and only golf course provides the perfect vantage point to enjoy an amazing sunrise

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the tranquil tidal pools, while fist-sized ghost crabs shuffle nervously across the shore. Walking around the golf course and taking in the morning, we tried to estimate just how many golf balls we had driven into the ocean during the two rounds we played during our stay. Though I had never really swung a golf club before in my life, I figured the Maldives was not a bad place for a first effort. Charles, who worked as a caddy when he was a teenager (which does not in fact mean that he can play with any skill), described the relatively short course as a “pitch and putt,” meaning I could basically throw the ball as hard as I could toward the hole after about four or five failed tee-off attempts. Thankfully, it is hard to get frustrated when you’re surrounded by nature’s perfection. As we cruised back to our villa 86 FORBES MIDDLE EAST SEPTEMBER 2013

The azure water, teeming with marine life, finds baby sharks, manta rays, sea turtles and giant napoleon fish going about their business with the sun fully emerged, ShangriLa’s staff trickled out to attend to the island’s 12 hectares of verdant foliage. Two Maldivian men pushed around a cart to collect fallen coconuts from the island’s 17,000 trees. Women brushed the jungle lanes with broad palm leaf brooms, clearing the way for golf buggies and bicycles. We passed another couple pedaling their way to breakfast,

and exchanged knowing nods, silently saying, “amazing, isn’t it?” As we packed our bags for departure later that day, it began to rain. While stormy weather is unwelcome by most island resort travelers, especially those counting on a flight home, we reveled in it. As any Dubai resident will tell you, a good cleansing rain is hard to come by. When a staff member apologized for the only element of the island that was out of her control, I shook my head and corrected her. “This couldn’t be more perfect,” I said, “I hope our flight gets canceled.” I had already known what the Maldives were going to be like without ever having to go there. They have existed in my mind and in my dreams. Indeed, my experience differed from the honeymooners, billionaires, and getaway travelers who had made it there, but one thing was certain: we had all found our paradise.

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The Maldives Shangri-La resort is as captivating by night as by day