Planting Guide - Henry Fields
Since 1892
Seed & nursery Co.
Planting Guide
Thanks for shopping with Henry Field’s!
We’ve prepared this Planting Guide to answer as many of your planting questions as possible.
Order Online at HenryFields.com
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Where Do I Begin?
of soil. Each 2/3 of sandy soil should have 1/3 topsoil added.
When you receive your order, please open it and examine the items to be sure you received everything you ordered and to verify that all are in good condition. Immediate planting is always best, but if that is not possible, sprinkle trees, shrubs and roses generously with water and rewrap loosely in their original packaging. Store in a cool area, dampening the roots every day. Bareroot perennials, bulbs, strawberries and potatoes keep best in your refrigerator, preferably the vegetable crisper drawer. Cover their roots with damp newspaper or paper towels. Be sure to keep them away from fruits that release ethylene gas as they ripen (such as apples). Plants that are potted (not bareroot) should be placed in a sunny window or outdoors in an area protected from frost or direct sun for 5-10 days to acclimate to their new environment before being planted outdoors or moved into larger pots. Water pots as needed whenever the soil begins to dry out. Follow the steps below for planting the items you ordered:
STEP 3: Proper planting depth for trees, shrubs and roses can be determined by looking for the nursery line, the area on the stem where it changes color, usually just above the roots. Grafted trees (most fruit and nuts) are the exception. The graft/ bud union (swelled, slightly offset area about 4-8 inches above the roots) must be at least 2-3 inches above the soil line (after the soil settles). Potted plants should be planted at the same depth as in their pot.
STEP 1: For best success, trim out any damaged roots and branches. Bareroot trees, shrubs and roses should then be soaked in warm water for 1-2 hours. Bareroot perennials can be soaked for 1/2 to 1 hour. STEP 2: Choose the planting location and dig the planting hole wide enough and deep enough so the roots will not be crowded. If your soil is less than ideal, amend the soil before replacing it on top of the roots of the new plant. If the soil is very hard, break it up as best you can, mixing in 1/3 organic matter (peat moss or compost) to every 2/3
STEP 4: Use the soil mixture you prepared in step 2 to fill in the planting hole. Use only slow-release fertilizer in the planting hole. Other fertilizers can be used after planting, following label directions. Gently firm the soil around the roots as you fill. STEP 5: Use the remaining soil to form a moat-like channel around the plant. Fill the moat with water and let it soak in. Then fill in any sunken areas with more soil and moisten again. Cover the moat area with mulch to prevent the soil from drying out. Keep mulch at least 1 inch away from plant stems and trunks. During the first growing season, keep the soil evenly moist. Supplement natural rainfall, when it is less than 1 inch per week, with irrigation. Water if necessary, right through the fall season. Stake your trees immediately after planting. Lifelong support is mandatory for dwarf- and Li’l-BIG™-size trees. Drive a 6-7 foot stake into the ground close to the tree and at least 18 inches deep. Attach the tree using our Tree Support System, loose twine or other nonbinding material. Or, plant these trees next to a fence and loosely attach the trunk (and limbs as they develop) to the fence.
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STEP 6: It may take 4-6 weeks for plants to break dormancy; nut trees, grapes and raspberries can take up to 10 weeks. To determine if woody plants are still alive, scratch a small piece of bark with your thumbnail—if it’s green underneath, it’s still alive. For all other plants, carefully dig around them to observe plant condition and look for new growth.
Fruit Trees Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Use the accompanying Fruit Tree Planting Chart to select a planting site for your fruit trees. Prune fruit trees in early spring to remove dead or diseased branches and any crossing limbs. This allows more sunlight to reach the innermost branches. Leave the short spurs on the main stem since they bear the first fruit.
Avoid overfertilizing fruit trees. If fed too well, energy goes into producing branches and leaves instead of fruit. Overfed trees may also bear at a later age than trees fertilized at the proper rate. To encourage your trees to bear earlier in their life, spread the limbs to a near-horizontal position (70-80° angle). Use heavy twine attached to stakes in the ground, or insert braces between the branches. This practice helps the plant capture more sunlight which is needed for flower bud formation. For best results, we recommend a spraying program to help control disease and insects. With proper pruning, feeding and spraying, most fruit trees bear heavy crops. Too much production can exhaust trees and cause them to bear only every other year. To prevent overcropping
Fruit Tree Planting Chart Variety
Planting Distance
Height
Li’l-BIG Apple Standard Apple Semi-Dwarf Apricot Standard Apricot Bush Cherry Standard Sour Cherry Standard Sweet Cherry Dwarf Sour Cherry Dwarf Cherry Standard Nectarine Semi-Dwarf Nectarine Semi-Dwarf Peach Standard Peach Semi-Dwarf Pear Standard Pear Persimmon Semi-Dwarf Plum Standard Plum
6 feet 25-35 feet 10-14 feet 15-20 feet 5 feet 25 feet 25 feet 8-10 feet 5-7 feet 15-20 feet 10-15 feet 10 feet 15-20 feet 10-15 feet 20-25 feet 20 feet 10 feet 15-20 feet
5-7 feet 20-25 feet 12-14 feet 15-20 feet 5 feet 15-20 feet 25 feet 10-15 feet 6-7 feet 15-20 feet 12-14 feet 12-14 feet 20 feet 8-15 feet 20-30 feet 20-40 feet 12-14 feet 15-25 feet
™
Avg. Yield 1/2 bushel 10-20 bushels 2-4 bushels 3-5 bushels 1-2 quarts 2-5 bushels 3-7 bushels 1-2 bushels 2-5 bushels 3-8 bushels 1-3 bushels 2-5 bushels 3-8 bushels 2-3 bushels 4-8 bushels 2-3 gallons 1-2 bushels 2-4 bushels 3
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and alternate-year bearing, thin apples and pears to one fruit per cluster immediately after the flower petals have fallen or when you see tiny fruitlets. Likewise, thin peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots by removing all but one fruit per 8-10 inches of limb surface. This results in higher quality and larger fruit produced annually.
Shade Trees Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Shade trees that reach 50 feet or more should be planted at least 30 feet from the house or street to allow plenty of growing space. Don’t plant under power lines or too close to sidewalks. Keep in mind the mature height and width of the tree. After planting, protect the trunk with a freestanding wire mesh guard around the tree for the first year to prevent mechanical and animal damage. The first 2 or 3 fall seasons, wrap the trunk with tree wrap for the winter, from the ground up to the first crotch of branches. This will help prevent damage by winter sun and by animals. Remove wrap in spring to discourage unwanted insect activity. Mulch will also help keep weeds down and conserve moisture. Keep mulch a few inches away from trunk as wet mulch may cause bark to rot.
Nut Tree Planting Chart Planting Variety Distance Almond 25 feet Butternut 40-50 feet Chestnut 50 feet Hazelnut 15 feet Hickory 40 feet Pecan 50 feet Black Walnut 40-50 feet
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Height 15-20 feet 40-60 feet 50 feet 15 feet 50-60 feet 70 feet 50-75 feet
Nut Trees Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Nut trees grow best in full sun and welldrained soil. Choose an appropriate site, then space nut trees according to the planting chart below left. If the tree is grafted, plant with the graft union above the ground. Most nut trees are not self-pollinating and need a pollinator to set fruit. Even self-pollinators bear heavier crops when a pollinator is nearby. For best production, plant two or more varieties of the same nut within 50 feet of each other. Pests and diseases are not common problems for nut trees. After nuts are harvested, test for soundness by placing them in a bucket of water. Save only those that sink to the bottom. Once nuts are dry, store in a cool place. To freeze, shell and store in airtight containers for up to one year.
Hedges Choose the hedge site and dig a trench about 1 foot wide. Set plants in along the straightest side, at the same depth as their old soil line (where the stem starts to darken). Pinch off the tips of new shoots to encourage branching. When new growth reaches 10-12 inches, trim back 4-5 inches to stimulate additional branching. Prune hedges throughout the growing season. A weak, straggly or overly woody hedge should be cut back to within a few inches of the ground and then fertilized to encourage new growth. When pruning, be sure the top of the hedge is narrower than the bottom so sunlight reaches the entire plant for full, even growth.
Shrubs Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Provide room between shrubs to allow for air circulation and to allow them to
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achieve their natural size, shape and grace (unless you want to form a dense, upright hedge). Generally, set small shrubs 1 to 2 feet apart, medium shrubs 1 1/2 to 3 feet apart and large shrubs 3 to 6 feet apart. Keep mature size in mind when planting. Place shrubs far enough from your house so they won’t touch the walls when grown. This avoids a crowded look, makes maintenance easier and protects plants by permitting air to circulate, reducing the chance of diseases. Never plant shrubs directly under the drip line of a roof where they can be easily damaged by falling icicles, snow clumps or too much water. And don’t plant shrubs beneath overhangs where they may lack sufficient moisture. Many shrubs look better with some pruning to help shape the plant. Many flowering shrubs will produce more flowers when properly pruned.
mulch plants after freezing to prevent winter injury. Blueberries and huckleberries generally don’t need pruning until the third year after planting. Then pruning is important to achieve the best fruit and highest yield. After plants begin regular bearing (5-6 years after planting), cut off all but 6-8 of the most vigorous canes each year in early spring when the plants are still dormant.
Native & Small Fruits
BRAMBLES—Includes several kinds of trailing and upright berries. They require deep, well-drained, loamy soil high in organic matter. They can’t tolerate “wet feet” caused by heavy soil. Before planting, cut the tops back 6 inches. Pack soil firmly around plants and mulch with a thick layer of shredded bark, leaves, wood chips or straw to prevent competition from weeds. No fertilizer is required the first year. However, the next season a 10-10-10 fertilizer should be applied in the spring. Blackberries and Boysenberries should be spaced 5 feet apart for upright and 8 feet apart for trailing varieties in rows 8-10 feet apart. Pinch or cut off buds so canes can’t set fruit the first year. Prune back in spring, leaving the heaviest new canes at 6-8 inches apart. Prune tips back, leaving 8-12 buds per cane. Cut all other canes to the ground. Tie canes to wire supports similar to a grape trellis. (See illustration on page 6).
Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Before planting, trim dead or damaged roots and tops. Prevention is the key to fighting pests and disease. A regular spraying program will stop insects before they damage your fruit crop. It can also make a big difference in the fruit quality and production. BLUEBERRIES and huckleberries—Plant blueberries and huckleberries where they have full sun most of the day and well-drained, porous soil high in organic matter. Add peat moss and a rich compost along with an acid fertilizer, being careful not to overfertilize. Plants have a shallow root system and should be irrigated and heavily mulched. Space plants 4 feet apart in rows 8-10 feet apart. Incorporate organic matter in and around planting holes. Control weeds with mulch. In cold climates,
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Pruning Blueberries Cut out worn old wood
Cut out twiggy stems Cut out weak laterals Cut out heavy old stems
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Training Blackberries
Weave onto trellis
Tie onto wires
Red and Gold Raspberries should be pruned in the spring, leaving four to six of the heaviest new canes per clump to produce the next crop. Be sure they’re at least 2-3 inches apart. Cut the rest of the canes to the ground. Prune the tips back on the remaining canes, leaving 8-10 buds on each cane. Plants benefit greatly from a simple trellis. Keep black and red raspberries at least 300 feet apart to prevent the spread of disease. Black and Purple Raspberries need to be pruned back in the spring. Leave the heaviest new canes about 6-8 inches apart to produce the next crop of fruit. Prune the tips back, leaving 8-12 buds per cane. Cut all other canes to the ground. Tie canes to wire supports similar to a grape trellis. CRANBERRIES—Very rich, organic, moist and highly acidic soils are the key to success with cranberries. Work large amounts of sphagnum peat and leaf mold into the soil before planting. Full sun is best in the North, while afternoon shade
is helpful in the South. Water frequently to keep the soil moist but not wet, and fertilize in spring and summer with a formula for acid-loving plants. CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRIES AND Jostaberries—Plants do best in cool, moist soil with good air circulation and good drainage. Heavy soil high in organic matter is also excellent. Plant in full sun where summers are mild, in partial shade where hot and dry. Set plants 5 feet apart in rows 8 feet apart. After planting, trim stems back to half the original length. Each spring, fertilize soil above roots with 1 cup of 10-10-10 formula per plant. In early spring, before growth starts, prune out old weak wood and unproductive branches older than 3-4 years (berries form on 1-year-old wood). Avoid deep cultivation by using mulch. ELDERBERRIES—Elderberries tolerate most soils, even wet, heavy soil. Plant two varieties for pollination. Set 6 feet apart in full sun or partial shade. Fertilize and mulch annually. Prune regularly—plants are most productive on 2-year-old wood. Remove wood older than 3 years. FIGS—Hardy figs can be grown outside in zones 6-10. In Northern areas they can be grown in pots. Figs like a well-drained soil that is mostly clay. In overly fertile soil, figs will not bear fruit. Place in a sunny location. No fertilizing is required when planted outside, but those planted in pots will benefit from 1/2 strength fertilizer (15-30-15 in the spring and a side dressing of 1/4 cup of bonemeal per 8inch pot). Bring potted figs indoors in late fall after leaves drop and keep in a cool area (30-35°F) throughout the winter. Continue to water through the winter.
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GOJI BERRIES—Goji berries, or wolfberries, tolerate almost any type of soil, except wet, soggy soil. They tend to fruit best in well-drained soil of moderate quality. Space plants 5-8 feet apart in an area with full sun to partial shade. Heavy pruning in the fall will help keep the plant looking nice and increase fruit production. Goji berries will typically begin yielding after their second or third growing season, and fruit will ripen over an extended period starting in July. GRAPES—Choose a location protected from strong winds and late frosts, with well-drained soil and plenty of organic matter. If possible, run vines in an east-west line to reduce shade cast by the trellis. Work 1 quart of manure or compost into soil per plant before planting. Trim roots and cut back tops, leaving two buds above surface. Set plants 8 feet apart in rows 10 feet apart. Allow main stems to grow unchecked the first year and train vines to grow horizontally on a trellis. Use two wires: one at 3 feet and one at 5 feet above the ground. Prune in late winter when plants are still dormant. Leave four new canes (shoots that started to grow the previous spring) and remove all other canes coming from main stem. New canes should be cut back to 6-8 inches so three to four buds remain. Buds will produce the new shoots that bear leaves and grapes the following summer. honeyberries—Plants do best in moderately drained, yet moist soil. Mulch to retain moisture. Plant in full sun where summers are mild, in partial sun where hot and dry. Set plants 4-5 feet apart— plant at least two varieties, as cross-pollination is required to produce fruit. Fertilize and mulch annually; prune to maintain shape.
Pruning Grapes
Before pruning
After pruning
KIWIS—Kiwis will grow in almost any soil that has good drainage, full sun and some wind protection. Kiwis are vigorous vines that need a support. To keep the vines healthy and bearing, they require regular pruning and training to a sturdy trellis. The trellis should consist of support wires 15 feet long for two plants attached to end posts about 6 feet high. No heavy pruning is necessary the first year, just train to grow to the top of the trellis. MAYPOPS—Plants do best in moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Plant in partial to full sun in an area that is protected from wind. Plants need some support and can be planted on a trellis, fence or arbor. Pick up ripe fruit when it is fully colored and fallen off of the vine. Space plants 4-6 feet apart. Trim as needed after flowering. In areas with cold winters, provide mulch to protect the root system. MULBERRIES—Plants prefer a damp location in fertile loam soil with lots of organic matter. Space trees 15 feet apart, (3 feet apart for hedge). Provide plenty of water the first few years, especially during fruit development. Plant three to five trees to ensure fruit pollination. PAWPAWS—Plant in a sunny, fertile, moist location. Set 15-20 feet apart. Pawpaws require very little care; just water during dry spells, add fertilizer each spring. Harvest 7
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when outside of the fruit is coppery brown.
Vines
PERSIMMONS—Plant in full sun. Dig a deep hole so the taproot will fit without curling. Curling or crowding of the taproot can kill the tree. Each spring apply fertilizer and mulch. Water during dry spells. Remove suckers. Persimmons don’t ripen until late fall, and fruit flavor is generally better after a light frost.
Plant vines about 1 foot away from their support. Climbing vines need fertile soil, ample water and staking. Firm the soil lightly around roots and fertilize after new growth appears. Vines that grow by tendrils or twining (clematis, honeysuckle and silver lace) need a support for climbing. Vines that climb by aerial roots (trumpet vine and ivy) cling to brick or stone. Clambering vines like bittersweet need to lean on a fence or other similar support. Honeysuckle vine, trumpet vine and bittersweet bloom on new wood, so prune in early spring to promote new growth and abundant flowers. Silver lace vine should be pruned severely in late fall/early winter. Some varieties of clematis (Jackmanii, Sweet Autumn Clematis) bloom on current season’s growth and should be pruned to about 1 foot in late winter/early spring to encourage new growth. Other clematis bloom on old wood and should be pruned lightly after bloom. A key essential to establishing your clematis plants is to make sure the root system is kept cool. A sunny location where roots can grow under a cool covering, such as other perennials, mulch or a large flat rock is ideal. Deep planting—about a half inch deeper than it was grown in the nursery—encourages extra-strong root development.
SEA BUCKTHORNS—Plants do best in well-drained soil with high amounts of organic matter. Plant in full to partial sun, spacing 15 feet apart. Plant two or more trees for pollination purposes. Established plants are drought-resistant, but be sure to water regularly until established. Fruit ripens August through October and can be harvested any time after it is fully colored. Fruit will persist through the winter. STRAWBERRIES—Strawberries need soil with good drainage and plenty of organic matter. Strawberry plants have a crown where roots and tops meet—this crown should be planted even with the soil surface. Set plants 15-24 inches apart. Mulch after watering to retain soil moisture, keep weeds down and keep berries off soil so they’re cleaner with less chance of rotting. Remove all blossoms on Junebearing varieties the first year. Remove everbearing blossoms until July, then allow plants to set fruit. Junebearers are generally grown in matted rows or in the hill system. In the matted row system, allow runners to root within a row about 18 inches wide. Remove extra runners or late runners (those that grow after mid to late July). Everbearers are usually grown in the hill system. Space plants about 12 inches apart and remove all but one or two runners.
Windbreaks Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Site your windbreak where it will offer the most protection—usually to the north and west of your house. Plant the first row of trees 100-150 feet away from the buildings you want to shelter. Keep shrubs and trees weeded and provide wa-
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ter to help them become well-established. Trees will grow two to three times faster if weeds are kept under control during the first 2 years. Plant the tallest trees in the center row of your shelter belt, with shorter trees next and shrubs in the outside row facing the wind. Evergreens will provide a dense screen for maximum wind protection in all seasons.
Perennials & Ground Covers Perennials come back year after year if left undisturbed. Some do not bloom the first year but develop roots and foliage to support flowers the next year and after. The illustration at the bottom of the page shows typical planting depths for bareroot perennials. The packaging your perennials come in will have specific information on planting depth and spacing. Iris should be set so their roots are barely covered with soil (#1). Peonies, lilies of the valley, and hostas should be positioned with their buds 1-2 inches below the surface of the soil (#2). Arrange plants with a crown so the crown is even with the soil surface (#3). Plants without a distinct crown, often resembling a chunk of root,
should be placed 1 inch deep. If you can’t tell which end is up, plant the root on its side (#4). This will make it easier for the plant to grow than if it was planted upside down. Perennials require little care after planting. Mulching helps keep weeds down and retains soil moisture. Remove faded and dying flowers often to prolong the plant’s flowering period. Most perennials need to be divided every 3-5 years to rejuvenate the plant as it spreads. When you receive your potted perennials, you might find that some of the leaves appear yellow or dried. That does not mean the plants are dead. As long as the root system is healthy, upper foliage will soon regenerate. Remove your perennial from the pot it was shipped in by lightly squeezing or tapping the sides of the container. Plants that are difficult to remove from the pot may be “rootbound.” This means that a mass of roots is tightly woven into the planting medium. Cut or tear off the bottom third of the root ball. Use a trowel or knife to score vertical indentations on all four sides of the root ball. This helps the roots to grow directly into the surrounding soil rather than staying in the potting soil they are grown in.
PLANTING DEPTH DIAGRAMS Barely/partially under surface
#1 Iris
Crown at soil level 1-2" below surface
#2 Peony,
Hosta, Lily of the Valley
1" below soil surface
#3
Most plants with distinct crown
#4
Plants with no distinct crown (Ferns)
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Ellepot® paper plant pots–if you have received your plants in our new environmentally friendly, biodegradable paper Ellepots, you can simply plant the whole root ball directly into the ground. No plastic pot to remove and no need to attempt to remove the paper covering the root system. Your plants will be easier to plant, plus experience less transplant shock and therefore will establish much quicker in their new location. For the first two weeks after planting it is important to water regularly. The soil inside the Ellepot may be more porous than the surrounding soil and will dry out quicker. Once the roots take hold into the surrounding soil, less watering may be necessary. Ground cover plants prefer deeply worked, properly fertilized soil that is free of weeds. To create the most natural effect, stagger your ground cover plants so individual plants aren’t lined up like ranks of soldiers. When planting on a slope, stagger the plant arrangement and follow the contour of the slope. Leave a depression around each plant as a natural basin to hold water. Spread a 1-2 inch layer of mulch over the area surrounding the plants, being careful not to bury them. This helps to retain moisture in the soil and retard weed growth.
Bulbs We recommend planting your bulbs as soon as possible after they arrive. If planting must be delayed, open bulb bags to allow air circulation and place in a cool (4555°F) location, away from direct sunlight. Do not place bulbs where they can freeze. An excellent option for bulb storage is a spare refrigerator, though you should avoid storing your bulbs with fruit. The fruit
emits ethylene gas that is harmful to bulbs. Your bulbs will flourish in most types of well-drained soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs 1 inch deeper than the recommendation on the bag label. If your soil is heavy clay, plant bulbs 1 inch shallower than the label recommends. The addition of light organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold or compost will improve your soil and provide better drainage. After planting the bulbs, tamp the soil with your hands to eliminate any air pockets. Water thoroughly. Hardy bulbs such as tulips and daffodils do not need to be lifted in the fall, but a covering of mulch will help protect the bulbs in colder climates. Important note—Leave the foliage on all your bulbs after blooming. Allow the foliage to turn yellow and wither naturally. The leaves provide nourishment to the bulbs for next season’s blooms. In colder climates, tender bulbs such as gladiolus, cannas, dahlias or calla lilies that are planted in the spring, must be lifted in the fall. You may lift your bulbs prior to a killing frost or as soon as the frost has blackened the foliage. Dig up the bulbs gently, being careful not to cut or damage them. Cannas and dahlias can also be overwintered in zones 5-7 by covering with a 3- to 4-inch thick layer of mulch. Store them in a well-ventilated, frostfree area until the foliage has dried up. Remove the dried foliage and place your bulbs in an unsealed paper bag, old nylon stocking or a shallow, plastic-lined box with a blanket of peat moss or vermiculite. Summer-flowering tender bulbs require winter storage temperatures between 45-60°F. An ideal storage location would be the vegetable compartment of a refrigerator or an unheated garage or basement.
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Houseplants/ Patio Plants Remove your houseplant or patio plant from its packaging immediately and place in a bright window out of direct sunlight, watering as necessary. After several days, sun-loving plants may be placed in direct sunlight. Don’t be surprised if some plants lose their leaves due to shipping stress— they are not dying. Keep your plant in its original pot until it has had time to recover from shipping stress and produces two new leaves. Watch watering needs closely while your plant is in a small pot. When repotting, place into a larger pot and water thoroughly. Avoid moving your plant into a very large pot until it is ready or root rot will likely result. Most houseplants and patio plants thrive on a monthly application of watersoluble plant food. Be sure to follow the feeding directions on the package. Before freezing weather (below 29°F) arrives, the best option for winterizing patio plants is to bring the containers inside your home to a cool, sunny location. If this is not possible, next to a window in an unheated garage (above freezing) or cool basement would also work. Withhold fertilizer, and water just enough to keep the soil slightly moist. In spring, when the danger of frost has passed, return the containers to their outdoor location and water thoroughly. When night temperatures drop below 50°F in early fall, plants such as citrus, dwarf banana, dwarf fig and dwarf pomegranate need to be moved indoors. Provide as much sun as possible; a south- or west-facing window is ideal. Avoid areas that would expose your plants to hot dry air, such as near heat registers. Growth will slow down in wintertime. Withhold fertilizer at this time and only water as need-
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ed. Return to a patio setting once danger of frost has passed in late spring.
Roses Soak bareroot roses in a bucket of water or mud just before planting. Roses like sunny locations and rich, well-drained soil. Plant roots in early spring with the joint or bud union 1 inch aboveground in warm regions (up to 2 inches below ground in cold-winter areas). To help roots become well established before extensive top growth begins, mound 8-10 inches of loose soil around top of plant, but remove when first buds appear. Please see Rose Planting Guide on page 12 for diagram. Water the equivalent of 1 inch of rain weekly. Always water from ground level and avoid splashing on leaves. A light organic mulch will help protect from splashing, conserve moisture, keep weeds down and will add humus to the soil. Fertilize with a good plant food right after pruning in early spring and again at the beginning of flowering season. Apply rose dust as necessary to control pests and disease. Knockout® Roses—Knockout Roses need very little maintenance compared to the traditional rose plant. There is no need for deadheading to promote new growth, it only needs to be done for aesthetic reasons. Pruning may be done to keep the plant in the rounded mound shape it prefers. Major pruning can be done in late winter or early spring. When pruning the Knockout Rose, it’s good to cut down the plant by 1/3 to promote optimum flower production. Roses need winter protection in the North. After a few hard fall frosts, mound dirt, leaves, hay or straw over rose tops. Soil should be frozen to a depth of 2 inches before covering with rose cones. In early spring, prune roses back 11
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Proper Pruning for Roses
roses far enough away from large plants that may rob the roses of needed sunshine and moisture. Although the flowers are small, the miniature rose plants can get quite large. To keep them smaller, clip the plant back in the spring, shaping it as you trim. They can be cut back by as much as half their original size without causing damage.
Remove deadwood, weak and twiggy branches and any crossed branches
ROSE PLANTING GUIDE
In cold climates, reduce bush to half the size it was in fall
several inches. Remove suckers (canes emerging from roots) as they appear. For largest blooms, remove all but one bud per stem. To increase bloom, remove flowers as they fade (deadheading) and prune when first flush concludes. MINIATURE ROSES—Miniature roses are easy to grow both indoors and outdoors. Potted roses can also be moved inside for winter and outside during summer. Since miniature roses grow on their own roots, there’s no bud union to worry about. Remove spent flowers promptly to encourage blooming. Plant the rose in a 4-8 inch pot with a good soil mix and adequate drainage. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a cool, protected area for 2-4 weeks so the rose can acclimate. Miniature roses grown as houseplants will bloom year-round, except for a resting period of about 2 months. To grow miniature roses outside, space plants 10-12 inches apart. Plant miniature 12
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Vegetables ARTICHOKES, Jerusalem—Cut tubers into pieces so each knob is still attached to part of the main tuber. Plant each piece 3-5 inches deep and 18-24 inches apart in rows 36-42 inches apart. Tubers can be dug after the tops are killed by frost. Cut tops with a mower and dig like potatoes or leave in the ground and harvest through the winter. Although freezing won’t hurt them, you may want to use a heavy straw mulch to keep the ground from freezing so digging is easier. ASPARAGUS—Set crowns out in spring or fall. Plant 12-18 inches apart. Prepare a trench, 8 inches deep, in rich, fertile soil. Spread the crowns over the soil and cover them with 2 inches of soil. As the plants grow, gradually fill the trench with soil. (If your soil is clay or heavy, you may wish to add compost.) Each spring, feed with Henry Field’s Asparagus Food. Thoroughly work fertilizer into soil beside the row before growth starts. Repeat after harvest
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Trenching in Asparagus
is complete. Cut the tops back and mulch in late fall to help prevent deep freezing and sudden changes in soil temperature. Asparagus can be harvested in one or two cuttings by the second year. A full crop can be harvested by the third year. Pick when spears are 6-10 inches above the soil surface. Harvest for 6-8 weeks only, or until about the first of July in the North. To pick, snap spears off at ground level or cut them carefully without injuring new shoots. GARLIC—Garlic is adaptable to many different soil types, but prefers well-drained soil high in organic matter. Plant hardneck varieties in late fall. Softneck varieties can be planted in early spring or fall, depending on your location. Break bulbs into individual cloves just before planting, making sure not to let the cloves dry out. With pointed end facing up, set cloves at least 1 inch deep (2 inches for Elephant Garlic) and 4 inches apart. After planting, you may add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and maintain soil temperature. The tops will begin to die back as garlic reaches its peak maturity. Recommended harvest time is when most, but not all, of the foliage has died back. Hang your garlic up in a cool dry place for at least 2 weeks to allow it to cure. To store, place bulbs in mesh bags in a dark, cool, low humidity area.
GARLIC, Elephant—Plant in early spring or early fall. Set cloves 2 inches deep in soil with full sun. Feed with 10-10-10 fertilizer in early April and late June. If you feed at spring planting time, mix fertilizer and soil well before setting the bulb. Water weekly when weather is dry. Harvest in late summer after tops turn brown. Replant bulbs that haven’t split into cloves for harvest next season. If bulbs do divide into cloves, harvest large cloves for cooking and replant small ones for next year’s harvest. HORSERADISH—This hardy perennial grows 2 feet tall and thrives in sun or shade. Can become invasive in rich soil, so grow in an out-of-the-way corner. Plant cuttings 3-4 inches below the surface and 8 inches apart, in rows 16 inches apart. Keep soil evenly moist throughout growing season. Crop can be harvested in 2-3 years. Harvest large roots in fall, after frost, leaving smaller roots behind for a later harvest. ONION SETS—Plant sets as soon as ground can be worked. Onions are frost resistant and thrive in cool weather. One pint of sets will plant about 25 feet at 1-2 inches deep, 3-4 inches apart. Fertilize twice: at planting time and again when plants are about 6 inches tall. Onions have shallow, easily damaged roots so cultivate carefully. Keep moisture level constant. When foliage begins to turn yellow, bend stems over—this stops growth and allows the bulbs to ripen. Pull away some of the soil and any mulch around the bulbs until they’re half exposed. When the leaves turn brown, pull bulbs from the soil and spread out to dry for a week or more. Then remove dirt and papery skins; cut tops 1 1/2 inches above the bulbs. Store bulbs in mesh bags in a cool, airy spot. Use bulbs with thick, 13
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wide necks first since they’re often the first to soften and spoil. RHUBARB—Plant in spring, spacing divisions 3 feet apart in rich soil well supplied with water. Position so crowns are 3-4 inches below soil surface. Water and cultivate regularly; feed generously the first year. Harvest stalks lightly the second year. After that, harvest early spring until early summer. Plants can be mowed, dug and divided in fall or spring. SHALLOTS—Plant sets early in light, very well-drained soil, 1-2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart. When foliage starts to wither, dig bulbs and cure 2-3 weeks. Store like onions. POTATOES—Many varieties of potatoes produce large seed with many growth buds called eyes. In order to achieve greater yields, these larger whole-seed potatoes (2 inches or more in diameter) may be cut into pieces. Be sure that each potato seed piece has at least one or two eyes, cut into sections and allow them to air dry at room temperature for 2-4 days prior to planting. Potatoes do best in well-drained, wellcultivated, rich soil. Dig a shallow trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. Place cut seed pieces in the trench 8-10 inches apart, and cover with 3 inches of
soil. Continue to mound soil about halfway up the stem of the plant as it grows. Keep rows weeded, but do not cultivate too deeply, and irrigate weekly during dry periods. Harvest young potatoes whenever tubers are large enough to eat, usually 7-8 weeks after planting. Do not dig up the entire plant. Instead, dig carefully around the plant and remove large tubers. The smaller tubers can continue to grow. Dig for winter storage when plant tops begin to dry. Take care not to bruise the skin. Dry for 2-3 hours, then store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Sprouts—Sprouts can be grown in a few different ways. If you are growing them with a sprouter, place a small amount of seeds in a jar and cover with enough water to cover seeds. Soak overnight. It is normal for the seeds to swell. Drain the water and rinse seeds; drain all excess water. Spread in a thin layer in the tray. Repeat rinsing and draining 2 times a day to prevent seed from turning sour/molding. Seeds may also be sown in a shallow dish or pot filled lightly with soil. Water if needed. As sprouts grow they may be cut with scissors for use. Sprouts also can be grown between two moistened paper towels. When sprouts are ready for eating (usually after 2-5 days), rinse off excess hulls and drain thoroughly. Store in plastic bags in the refrigerator.
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VEGETABLE PLANTS, TOMATOES AND PEPPERS—Vegetable seedlings may be planted as soon as they are received if the weather is cloudy and cool. Set the plants out in the early evening if it is hot and sunny. Plants may be potted and hardened off in a protected location for a week if conditions are overly cool or hot. Fill the planting holes with water and allow water to soak in—this provides roots with plenty of moisture to get plants off to a good start. Set the plants in the holes and fill soil in around them, firming lightly to eliminate air pockets. Leave a slight depression around each plant to collect and hold moisture. Water thoroughly when finished planting
and again when plants are about 6 inches tall. Onions have shallow, easily damaged roots so cultivate carefully. Keep moisture level constant. When foliage begins to turn yellow, bend stems over—this stops growth and allows the bulbs to ripen. Pull away some of the soil and any mulch around the bulbs until they’re half exposed. When the leaves turn brown, pull bulbs from the soil and spread out to dry for a week or more. Then remove dirt and papery skins; cut tops 1 1/2 inches above the bulbs. Store bulbs in mesh bags in a cool, airy spot. Use bulbs with thick, wide necks first since they’re often the first to soften and spoil.
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NOTES
Henry Field’s ®
Guarantee Henry Field wrote the guarantee we still honor today: “Your money’s worth or your money back.” If not completely satisfied, you’ll get new merchandise, a credit or a refund for the full purchase price—whichever you prefer. We honor this guarantee on plants and nursery stock for as long as you garden. Seeds and merchandise are guaranteed for one year.
Customer Service hours:
24 hours a day, 7 days a week 513-354-1495 P.O. Box 397, Aurora, IN 47001-0397 Online at HenryFields.com © 2011 Scarlet Tanager LLC, d/b/a Henry Field’s Seed & Nursery Co. All rights reserved. Henry Field’s trademarks are trademarks of Scarlet Tanager LLC.
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Seed & nursery Co.
Planting Guide
Thanks for shopping with Henry Field’s!
We’ve prepared this Planting Guide to answer as many of your planting questions as possible.
Order Online at HenryFields.com
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Where Do I Begin?
of soil. Each 2/3 of sandy soil should have 1/3 topsoil added.
When you receive your order, please open it and examine the items to be sure you received everything you ordered and to verify that all are in good condition. Immediate planting is always best, but if that is not possible, sprinkle trees, shrubs and roses generously with water and rewrap loosely in their original packaging. Store in a cool area, dampening the roots every day. Bareroot perennials, bulbs, strawberries and potatoes keep best in your refrigerator, preferably the vegetable crisper drawer. Cover their roots with damp newspaper or paper towels. Be sure to keep them away from fruits that release ethylene gas as they ripen (such as apples). Plants that are potted (not bareroot) should be placed in a sunny window or outdoors in an area protected from frost or direct sun for 5-10 days to acclimate to their new environment before being planted outdoors or moved into larger pots. Water pots as needed whenever the soil begins to dry out. Follow the steps below for planting the items you ordered:
STEP 3: Proper planting depth for trees, shrubs and roses can be determined by looking for the nursery line, the area on the stem where it changes color, usually just above the roots. Grafted trees (most fruit and nuts) are the exception. The graft/ bud union (swelled, slightly offset area about 4-8 inches above the roots) must be at least 2-3 inches above the soil line (after the soil settles). Potted plants should be planted at the same depth as in their pot.
STEP 1: For best success, trim out any damaged roots and branches. Bareroot trees, shrubs and roses should then be soaked in warm water for 1-2 hours. Bareroot perennials can be soaked for 1/2 to 1 hour. STEP 2: Choose the planting location and dig the planting hole wide enough and deep enough so the roots will not be crowded. If your soil is less than ideal, amend the soil before replacing it on top of the roots of the new plant. If the soil is very hard, break it up as best you can, mixing in 1/3 organic matter (peat moss or compost) to every 2/3
STEP 4: Use the soil mixture you prepared in step 2 to fill in the planting hole. Use only slow-release fertilizer in the planting hole. Other fertilizers can be used after planting, following label directions. Gently firm the soil around the roots as you fill. STEP 5: Use the remaining soil to form a moat-like channel around the plant. Fill the moat with water and let it soak in. Then fill in any sunken areas with more soil and moisten again. Cover the moat area with mulch to prevent the soil from drying out. Keep mulch at least 1 inch away from plant stems and trunks. During the first growing season, keep the soil evenly moist. Supplement natural rainfall, when it is less than 1 inch per week, with irrigation. Water if necessary, right through the fall season. Stake your trees immediately after planting. Lifelong support is mandatory for dwarf- and Li’l-BIG™-size trees. Drive a 6-7 foot stake into the ground close to the tree and at least 18 inches deep. Attach the tree using our Tree Support System, loose twine or other nonbinding material. Or, plant these trees next to a fence and loosely attach the trunk (and limbs as they develop) to the fence.
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STEP 6: It may take 4-6 weeks for plants to break dormancy; nut trees, grapes and raspberries can take up to 10 weeks. To determine if woody plants are still alive, scratch a small piece of bark with your thumbnail—if it’s green underneath, it’s still alive. For all other plants, carefully dig around them to observe plant condition and look for new growth.
Fruit Trees Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Use the accompanying Fruit Tree Planting Chart to select a planting site for your fruit trees. Prune fruit trees in early spring to remove dead or diseased branches and any crossing limbs. This allows more sunlight to reach the innermost branches. Leave the short spurs on the main stem since they bear the first fruit.
Avoid overfertilizing fruit trees. If fed too well, energy goes into producing branches and leaves instead of fruit. Overfed trees may also bear at a later age than trees fertilized at the proper rate. To encourage your trees to bear earlier in their life, spread the limbs to a near-horizontal position (70-80° angle). Use heavy twine attached to stakes in the ground, or insert braces between the branches. This practice helps the plant capture more sunlight which is needed for flower bud formation. For best results, we recommend a spraying program to help control disease and insects. With proper pruning, feeding and spraying, most fruit trees bear heavy crops. Too much production can exhaust trees and cause them to bear only every other year. To prevent overcropping
Fruit Tree Planting Chart Variety
Planting Distance
Height
Li’l-BIG Apple Standard Apple Semi-Dwarf Apricot Standard Apricot Bush Cherry Standard Sour Cherry Standard Sweet Cherry Dwarf Sour Cherry Dwarf Cherry Standard Nectarine Semi-Dwarf Nectarine Semi-Dwarf Peach Standard Peach Semi-Dwarf Pear Standard Pear Persimmon Semi-Dwarf Plum Standard Plum
6 feet 25-35 feet 10-14 feet 15-20 feet 5 feet 25 feet 25 feet 8-10 feet 5-7 feet 15-20 feet 10-15 feet 10 feet 15-20 feet 10-15 feet 20-25 feet 20 feet 10 feet 15-20 feet
5-7 feet 20-25 feet 12-14 feet 15-20 feet 5 feet 15-20 feet 25 feet 10-15 feet 6-7 feet 15-20 feet 12-14 feet 12-14 feet 20 feet 8-15 feet 20-30 feet 20-40 feet 12-14 feet 15-25 feet
™
Avg. Yield 1/2 bushel 10-20 bushels 2-4 bushels 3-5 bushels 1-2 quarts 2-5 bushels 3-7 bushels 1-2 bushels 2-5 bushels 3-8 bushels 1-3 bushels 2-5 bushels 3-8 bushels 2-3 bushels 4-8 bushels 2-3 gallons 1-2 bushels 2-4 bushels 3
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and alternate-year bearing, thin apples and pears to one fruit per cluster immediately after the flower petals have fallen or when you see tiny fruitlets. Likewise, thin peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots by removing all but one fruit per 8-10 inches of limb surface. This results in higher quality and larger fruit produced annually.
Shade Trees Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Shade trees that reach 50 feet or more should be planted at least 30 feet from the house or street to allow plenty of growing space. Don’t plant under power lines or too close to sidewalks. Keep in mind the mature height and width of the tree. After planting, protect the trunk with a freestanding wire mesh guard around the tree for the first year to prevent mechanical and animal damage. The first 2 or 3 fall seasons, wrap the trunk with tree wrap for the winter, from the ground up to the first crotch of branches. This will help prevent damage by winter sun and by animals. Remove wrap in spring to discourage unwanted insect activity. Mulch will also help keep weeds down and conserve moisture. Keep mulch a few inches away from trunk as wet mulch may cause bark to rot.
Nut Tree Planting Chart Planting Variety Distance Almond 25 feet Butternut 40-50 feet Chestnut 50 feet Hazelnut 15 feet Hickory 40 feet Pecan 50 feet Black Walnut 40-50 feet
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Height 15-20 feet 40-60 feet 50 feet 15 feet 50-60 feet 70 feet 50-75 feet
Nut Trees Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Nut trees grow best in full sun and welldrained soil. Choose an appropriate site, then space nut trees according to the planting chart below left. If the tree is grafted, plant with the graft union above the ground. Most nut trees are not self-pollinating and need a pollinator to set fruit. Even self-pollinators bear heavier crops when a pollinator is nearby. For best production, plant two or more varieties of the same nut within 50 feet of each other. Pests and diseases are not common problems for nut trees. After nuts are harvested, test for soundness by placing them in a bucket of water. Save only those that sink to the bottom. Once nuts are dry, store in a cool place. To freeze, shell and store in airtight containers for up to one year.
Hedges Choose the hedge site and dig a trench about 1 foot wide. Set plants in along the straightest side, at the same depth as their old soil line (where the stem starts to darken). Pinch off the tips of new shoots to encourage branching. When new growth reaches 10-12 inches, trim back 4-5 inches to stimulate additional branching. Prune hedges throughout the growing season. A weak, straggly or overly woody hedge should be cut back to within a few inches of the ground and then fertilized to encourage new growth. When pruning, be sure the top of the hedge is narrower than the bottom so sunlight reaches the entire plant for full, even growth.
Shrubs Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Provide room between shrubs to allow for air circulation and to allow them to
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achieve their natural size, shape and grace (unless you want to form a dense, upright hedge). Generally, set small shrubs 1 to 2 feet apart, medium shrubs 1 1/2 to 3 feet apart and large shrubs 3 to 6 feet apart. Keep mature size in mind when planting. Place shrubs far enough from your house so they won’t touch the walls when grown. This avoids a crowded look, makes maintenance easier and protects plants by permitting air to circulate, reducing the chance of diseases. Never plant shrubs directly under the drip line of a roof where they can be easily damaged by falling icicles, snow clumps or too much water. And don’t plant shrubs beneath overhangs where they may lack sufficient moisture. Many shrubs look better with some pruning to help shape the plant. Many flowering shrubs will produce more flowers when properly pruned.
mulch plants after freezing to prevent winter injury. Blueberries and huckleberries generally don’t need pruning until the third year after planting. Then pruning is important to achieve the best fruit and highest yield. After plants begin regular bearing (5-6 years after planting), cut off all but 6-8 of the most vigorous canes each year in early spring when the plants are still dormant.
Native & Small Fruits
BRAMBLES—Includes several kinds of trailing and upright berries. They require deep, well-drained, loamy soil high in organic matter. They can’t tolerate “wet feet” caused by heavy soil. Before planting, cut the tops back 6 inches. Pack soil firmly around plants and mulch with a thick layer of shredded bark, leaves, wood chips or straw to prevent competition from weeds. No fertilizer is required the first year. However, the next season a 10-10-10 fertilizer should be applied in the spring. Blackberries and Boysenberries should be spaced 5 feet apart for upright and 8 feet apart for trailing varieties in rows 8-10 feet apart. Pinch or cut off buds so canes can’t set fruit the first year. Prune back in spring, leaving the heaviest new canes at 6-8 inches apart. Prune tips back, leaving 8-12 buds per cane. Cut all other canes to the ground. Tie canes to wire supports similar to a grape trellis. (See illustration on page 6).
Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Before planting, trim dead or damaged roots and tops. Prevention is the key to fighting pests and disease. A regular spraying program will stop insects before they damage your fruit crop. It can also make a big difference in the fruit quality and production. BLUEBERRIES and huckleberries—Plant blueberries and huckleberries where they have full sun most of the day and well-drained, porous soil high in organic matter. Add peat moss and a rich compost along with an acid fertilizer, being careful not to overfertilize. Plants have a shallow root system and should be irrigated and heavily mulched. Space plants 4 feet apart in rows 8-10 feet apart. Incorporate organic matter in and around planting holes. Control weeds with mulch. In cold climates,
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Pruning Blueberries Cut out worn old wood
Cut out twiggy stems Cut out weak laterals Cut out heavy old stems
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Training Blackberries
Weave onto trellis
Tie onto wires
Red and Gold Raspberries should be pruned in the spring, leaving four to six of the heaviest new canes per clump to produce the next crop. Be sure they’re at least 2-3 inches apart. Cut the rest of the canes to the ground. Prune the tips back on the remaining canes, leaving 8-10 buds on each cane. Plants benefit greatly from a simple trellis. Keep black and red raspberries at least 300 feet apart to prevent the spread of disease. Black and Purple Raspberries need to be pruned back in the spring. Leave the heaviest new canes about 6-8 inches apart to produce the next crop of fruit. Prune the tips back, leaving 8-12 buds per cane. Cut all other canes to the ground. Tie canes to wire supports similar to a grape trellis. CRANBERRIES—Very rich, organic, moist and highly acidic soils are the key to success with cranberries. Work large amounts of sphagnum peat and leaf mold into the soil before planting. Full sun is best in the North, while afternoon shade
is helpful in the South. Water frequently to keep the soil moist but not wet, and fertilize in spring and summer with a formula for acid-loving plants. CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRIES AND Jostaberries—Plants do best in cool, moist soil with good air circulation and good drainage. Heavy soil high in organic matter is also excellent. Plant in full sun where summers are mild, in partial shade where hot and dry. Set plants 5 feet apart in rows 8 feet apart. After planting, trim stems back to half the original length. Each spring, fertilize soil above roots with 1 cup of 10-10-10 formula per plant. In early spring, before growth starts, prune out old weak wood and unproductive branches older than 3-4 years (berries form on 1-year-old wood). Avoid deep cultivation by using mulch. ELDERBERRIES—Elderberries tolerate most soils, even wet, heavy soil. Plant two varieties for pollination. Set 6 feet apart in full sun or partial shade. Fertilize and mulch annually. Prune regularly—plants are most productive on 2-year-old wood. Remove wood older than 3 years. FIGS—Hardy figs can be grown outside in zones 6-10. In Northern areas they can be grown in pots. Figs like a well-drained soil that is mostly clay. In overly fertile soil, figs will not bear fruit. Place in a sunny location. No fertilizing is required when planted outside, but those planted in pots will benefit from 1/2 strength fertilizer (15-30-15 in the spring and a side dressing of 1/4 cup of bonemeal per 8inch pot). Bring potted figs indoors in late fall after leaves drop and keep in a cool area (30-35°F) throughout the winter. Continue to water through the winter.
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GOJI BERRIES—Goji berries, or wolfberries, tolerate almost any type of soil, except wet, soggy soil. They tend to fruit best in well-drained soil of moderate quality. Space plants 5-8 feet apart in an area with full sun to partial shade. Heavy pruning in the fall will help keep the plant looking nice and increase fruit production. Goji berries will typically begin yielding after their second or third growing season, and fruit will ripen over an extended period starting in July. GRAPES—Choose a location protected from strong winds and late frosts, with well-drained soil and plenty of organic matter. If possible, run vines in an east-west line to reduce shade cast by the trellis. Work 1 quart of manure or compost into soil per plant before planting. Trim roots and cut back tops, leaving two buds above surface. Set plants 8 feet apart in rows 10 feet apart. Allow main stems to grow unchecked the first year and train vines to grow horizontally on a trellis. Use two wires: one at 3 feet and one at 5 feet above the ground. Prune in late winter when plants are still dormant. Leave four new canes (shoots that started to grow the previous spring) and remove all other canes coming from main stem. New canes should be cut back to 6-8 inches so three to four buds remain. Buds will produce the new shoots that bear leaves and grapes the following summer. honeyberries—Plants do best in moderately drained, yet moist soil. Mulch to retain moisture. Plant in full sun where summers are mild, in partial sun where hot and dry. Set plants 4-5 feet apart— plant at least two varieties, as cross-pollination is required to produce fruit. Fertilize and mulch annually; prune to maintain shape.
Pruning Grapes
Before pruning
After pruning
KIWIS—Kiwis will grow in almost any soil that has good drainage, full sun and some wind protection. Kiwis are vigorous vines that need a support. To keep the vines healthy and bearing, they require regular pruning and training to a sturdy trellis. The trellis should consist of support wires 15 feet long for two plants attached to end posts about 6 feet high. No heavy pruning is necessary the first year, just train to grow to the top of the trellis. MAYPOPS—Plants do best in moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Plant in partial to full sun in an area that is protected from wind. Plants need some support and can be planted on a trellis, fence or arbor. Pick up ripe fruit when it is fully colored and fallen off of the vine. Space plants 4-6 feet apart. Trim as needed after flowering. In areas with cold winters, provide mulch to protect the root system. MULBERRIES—Plants prefer a damp location in fertile loam soil with lots of organic matter. Space trees 15 feet apart, (3 feet apart for hedge). Provide plenty of water the first few years, especially during fruit development. Plant three to five trees to ensure fruit pollination. PAWPAWS—Plant in a sunny, fertile, moist location. Set 15-20 feet apart. Pawpaws require very little care; just water during dry spells, add fertilizer each spring. Harvest 7
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when outside of the fruit is coppery brown.
Vines
PERSIMMONS—Plant in full sun. Dig a deep hole so the taproot will fit without curling. Curling or crowding of the taproot can kill the tree. Each spring apply fertilizer and mulch. Water during dry spells. Remove suckers. Persimmons don’t ripen until late fall, and fruit flavor is generally better after a light frost.
Plant vines about 1 foot away from their support. Climbing vines need fertile soil, ample water and staking. Firm the soil lightly around roots and fertilize after new growth appears. Vines that grow by tendrils or twining (clematis, honeysuckle and silver lace) need a support for climbing. Vines that climb by aerial roots (trumpet vine and ivy) cling to brick or stone. Clambering vines like bittersweet need to lean on a fence or other similar support. Honeysuckle vine, trumpet vine and bittersweet bloom on new wood, so prune in early spring to promote new growth and abundant flowers. Silver lace vine should be pruned severely in late fall/early winter. Some varieties of clematis (Jackmanii, Sweet Autumn Clematis) bloom on current season’s growth and should be pruned to about 1 foot in late winter/early spring to encourage new growth. Other clematis bloom on old wood and should be pruned lightly after bloom. A key essential to establishing your clematis plants is to make sure the root system is kept cool. A sunny location where roots can grow under a cool covering, such as other perennials, mulch or a large flat rock is ideal. Deep planting—about a half inch deeper than it was grown in the nursery—encourages extra-strong root development.
SEA BUCKTHORNS—Plants do best in well-drained soil with high amounts of organic matter. Plant in full to partial sun, spacing 15 feet apart. Plant two or more trees for pollination purposes. Established plants are drought-resistant, but be sure to water regularly until established. Fruit ripens August through October and can be harvested any time after it is fully colored. Fruit will persist through the winter. STRAWBERRIES—Strawberries need soil with good drainage and plenty of organic matter. Strawberry plants have a crown where roots and tops meet—this crown should be planted even with the soil surface. Set plants 15-24 inches apart. Mulch after watering to retain soil moisture, keep weeds down and keep berries off soil so they’re cleaner with less chance of rotting. Remove all blossoms on Junebearing varieties the first year. Remove everbearing blossoms until July, then allow plants to set fruit. Junebearers are generally grown in matted rows or in the hill system. In the matted row system, allow runners to root within a row about 18 inches wide. Remove extra runners or late runners (those that grow after mid to late July). Everbearers are usually grown in the hill system. Space plants about 12 inches apart and remove all but one or two runners.
Windbreaks Follow instructions on page 2 for planting. Site your windbreak where it will offer the most protection—usually to the north and west of your house. Plant the first row of trees 100-150 feet away from the buildings you want to shelter. Keep shrubs and trees weeded and provide wa-
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ter to help them become well-established. Trees will grow two to three times faster if weeds are kept under control during the first 2 years. Plant the tallest trees in the center row of your shelter belt, with shorter trees next and shrubs in the outside row facing the wind. Evergreens will provide a dense screen for maximum wind protection in all seasons.
Perennials & Ground Covers Perennials come back year after year if left undisturbed. Some do not bloom the first year but develop roots and foliage to support flowers the next year and after. The illustration at the bottom of the page shows typical planting depths for bareroot perennials. The packaging your perennials come in will have specific information on planting depth and spacing. Iris should be set so their roots are barely covered with soil (#1). Peonies, lilies of the valley, and hostas should be positioned with their buds 1-2 inches below the surface of the soil (#2). Arrange plants with a crown so the crown is even with the soil surface (#3). Plants without a distinct crown, often resembling a chunk of root,
should be placed 1 inch deep. If you can’t tell which end is up, plant the root on its side (#4). This will make it easier for the plant to grow than if it was planted upside down. Perennials require little care after planting. Mulching helps keep weeds down and retains soil moisture. Remove faded and dying flowers often to prolong the plant’s flowering period. Most perennials need to be divided every 3-5 years to rejuvenate the plant as it spreads. When you receive your potted perennials, you might find that some of the leaves appear yellow or dried. That does not mean the plants are dead. As long as the root system is healthy, upper foliage will soon regenerate. Remove your perennial from the pot it was shipped in by lightly squeezing or tapping the sides of the container. Plants that are difficult to remove from the pot may be “rootbound.” This means that a mass of roots is tightly woven into the planting medium. Cut or tear off the bottom third of the root ball. Use a trowel or knife to score vertical indentations on all four sides of the root ball. This helps the roots to grow directly into the surrounding soil rather than staying in the potting soil they are grown in.
PLANTING DEPTH DIAGRAMS Barely/partially under surface
#1 Iris
Crown at soil level 1-2" below surface
#2 Peony,
Hosta, Lily of the Valley
1" below soil surface
#3
Most plants with distinct crown
#4
Plants with no distinct crown (Ferns)
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Ellepot® paper plant pots–if you have received your plants in our new environmentally friendly, biodegradable paper Ellepots, you can simply plant the whole root ball directly into the ground. No plastic pot to remove and no need to attempt to remove the paper covering the root system. Your plants will be easier to plant, plus experience less transplant shock and therefore will establish much quicker in their new location. For the first two weeks after planting it is important to water regularly. The soil inside the Ellepot may be more porous than the surrounding soil and will dry out quicker. Once the roots take hold into the surrounding soil, less watering may be necessary. Ground cover plants prefer deeply worked, properly fertilized soil that is free of weeds. To create the most natural effect, stagger your ground cover plants so individual plants aren’t lined up like ranks of soldiers. When planting on a slope, stagger the plant arrangement and follow the contour of the slope. Leave a depression around each plant as a natural basin to hold water. Spread a 1-2 inch layer of mulch over the area surrounding the plants, being careful not to bury them. This helps to retain moisture in the soil and retard weed growth.
Bulbs We recommend planting your bulbs as soon as possible after they arrive. If planting must be delayed, open bulb bags to allow air circulation and place in a cool (4555°F) location, away from direct sunlight. Do not place bulbs where they can freeze. An excellent option for bulb storage is a spare refrigerator, though you should avoid storing your bulbs with fruit. The fruit
emits ethylene gas that is harmful to bulbs. Your bulbs will flourish in most types of well-drained soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs 1 inch deeper than the recommendation on the bag label. If your soil is heavy clay, plant bulbs 1 inch shallower than the label recommends. The addition of light organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold or compost will improve your soil and provide better drainage. After planting the bulbs, tamp the soil with your hands to eliminate any air pockets. Water thoroughly. Hardy bulbs such as tulips and daffodils do not need to be lifted in the fall, but a covering of mulch will help protect the bulbs in colder climates. Important note—Leave the foliage on all your bulbs after blooming. Allow the foliage to turn yellow and wither naturally. The leaves provide nourishment to the bulbs for next season’s blooms. In colder climates, tender bulbs such as gladiolus, cannas, dahlias or calla lilies that are planted in the spring, must be lifted in the fall. You may lift your bulbs prior to a killing frost or as soon as the frost has blackened the foliage. Dig up the bulbs gently, being careful not to cut or damage them. Cannas and dahlias can also be overwintered in zones 5-7 by covering with a 3- to 4-inch thick layer of mulch. Store them in a well-ventilated, frostfree area until the foliage has dried up. Remove the dried foliage and place your bulbs in an unsealed paper bag, old nylon stocking or a shallow, plastic-lined box with a blanket of peat moss or vermiculite. Summer-flowering tender bulbs require winter storage temperatures between 45-60°F. An ideal storage location would be the vegetable compartment of a refrigerator or an unheated garage or basement.
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Houseplants/ Patio Plants Remove your houseplant or patio plant from its packaging immediately and place in a bright window out of direct sunlight, watering as necessary. After several days, sun-loving plants may be placed in direct sunlight. Don’t be surprised if some plants lose their leaves due to shipping stress— they are not dying. Keep your plant in its original pot until it has had time to recover from shipping stress and produces two new leaves. Watch watering needs closely while your plant is in a small pot. When repotting, place into a larger pot and water thoroughly. Avoid moving your plant into a very large pot until it is ready or root rot will likely result. Most houseplants and patio plants thrive on a monthly application of watersoluble plant food. Be sure to follow the feeding directions on the package. Before freezing weather (below 29°F) arrives, the best option for winterizing patio plants is to bring the containers inside your home to a cool, sunny location. If this is not possible, next to a window in an unheated garage (above freezing) or cool basement would also work. Withhold fertilizer, and water just enough to keep the soil slightly moist. In spring, when the danger of frost has passed, return the containers to their outdoor location and water thoroughly. When night temperatures drop below 50°F in early fall, plants such as citrus, dwarf banana, dwarf fig and dwarf pomegranate need to be moved indoors. Provide as much sun as possible; a south- or west-facing window is ideal. Avoid areas that would expose your plants to hot dry air, such as near heat registers. Growth will slow down in wintertime. Withhold fertilizer at this time and only water as need-
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ed. Return to a patio setting once danger of frost has passed in late spring.
Roses Soak bareroot roses in a bucket of water or mud just before planting. Roses like sunny locations and rich, well-drained soil. Plant roots in early spring with the joint or bud union 1 inch aboveground in warm regions (up to 2 inches below ground in cold-winter areas). To help roots become well established before extensive top growth begins, mound 8-10 inches of loose soil around top of plant, but remove when first buds appear. Please see Rose Planting Guide on page 12 for diagram. Water the equivalent of 1 inch of rain weekly. Always water from ground level and avoid splashing on leaves. A light organic mulch will help protect from splashing, conserve moisture, keep weeds down and will add humus to the soil. Fertilize with a good plant food right after pruning in early spring and again at the beginning of flowering season. Apply rose dust as necessary to control pests and disease. Knockout® Roses—Knockout Roses need very little maintenance compared to the traditional rose plant. There is no need for deadheading to promote new growth, it only needs to be done for aesthetic reasons. Pruning may be done to keep the plant in the rounded mound shape it prefers. Major pruning can be done in late winter or early spring. When pruning the Knockout Rose, it’s good to cut down the plant by 1/3 to promote optimum flower production. Roses need winter protection in the North. After a few hard fall frosts, mound dirt, leaves, hay or straw over rose tops. Soil should be frozen to a depth of 2 inches before covering with rose cones. In early spring, prune roses back 11
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Proper Pruning for Roses
roses far enough away from large plants that may rob the roses of needed sunshine and moisture. Although the flowers are small, the miniature rose plants can get quite large. To keep them smaller, clip the plant back in the spring, shaping it as you trim. They can be cut back by as much as half their original size without causing damage.
Remove deadwood, weak and twiggy branches and any crossed branches
ROSE PLANTING GUIDE
In cold climates, reduce bush to half the size it was in fall
several inches. Remove suckers (canes emerging from roots) as they appear. For largest blooms, remove all but one bud per stem. To increase bloom, remove flowers as they fade (deadheading) and prune when first flush concludes. MINIATURE ROSES—Miniature roses are easy to grow both indoors and outdoors. Potted roses can also be moved inside for winter and outside during summer. Since miniature roses grow on their own roots, there’s no bud union to worry about. Remove spent flowers promptly to encourage blooming. Plant the rose in a 4-8 inch pot with a good soil mix and adequate drainage. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a cool, protected area for 2-4 weeks so the rose can acclimate. Miniature roses grown as houseplants will bloom year-round, except for a resting period of about 2 months. To grow miniature roses outside, space plants 10-12 inches apart. Plant miniature 12
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Vegetables ARTICHOKES, Jerusalem—Cut tubers into pieces so each knob is still attached to part of the main tuber. Plant each piece 3-5 inches deep and 18-24 inches apart in rows 36-42 inches apart. Tubers can be dug after the tops are killed by frost. Cut tops with a mower and dig like potatoes or leave in the ground and harvest through the winter. Although freezing won’t hurt them, you may want to use a heavy straw mulch to keep the ground from freezing so digging is easier. ASPARAGUS—Set crowns out in spring or fall. Plant 12-18 inches apart. Prepare a trench, 8 inches deep, in rich, fertile soil. Spread the crowns over the soil and cover them with 2 inches of soil. As the plants grow, gradually fill the trench with soil. (If your soil is clay or heavy, you may wish to add compost.) Each spring, feed with Henry Field’s Asparagus Food. Thoroughly work fertilizer into soil beside the row before growth starts. Repeat after harvest
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Trenching in Asparagus
is complete. Cut the tops back and mulch in late fall to help prevent deep freezing and sudden changes in soil temperature. Asparagus can be harvested in one or two cuttings by the second year. A full crop can be harvested by the third year. Pick when spears are 6-10 inches above the soil surface. Harvest for 6-8 weeks only, or until about the first of July in the North. To pick, snap spears off at ground level or cut them carefully without injuring new shoots. GARLIC—Garlic is adaptable to many different soil types, but prefers well-drained soil high in organic matter. Plant hardneck varieties in late fall. Softneck varieties can be planted in early spring or fall, depending on your location. Break bulbs into individual cloves just before planting, making sure not to let the cloves dry out. With pointed end facing up, set cloves at least 1 inch deep (2 inches for Elephant Garlic) and 4 inches apart. After planting, you may add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and maintain soil temperature. The tops will begin to die back as garlic reaches its peak maturity. Recommended harvest time is when most, but not all, of the foliage has died back. Hang your garlic up in a cool dry place for at least 2 weeks to allow it to cure. To store, place bulbs in mesh bags in a dark, cool, low humidity area.
GARLIC, Elephant—Plant in early spring or early fall. Set cloves 2 inches deep in soil with full sun. Feed with 10-10-10 fertilizer in early April and late June. If you feed at spring planting time, mix fertilizer and soil well before setting the bulb. Water weekly when weather is dry. Harvest in late summer after tops turn brown. Replant bulbs that haven’t split into cloves for harvest next season. If bulbs do divide into cloves, harvest large cloves for cooking and replant small ones for next year’s harvest. HORSERADISH—This hardy perennial grows 2 feet tall and thrives in sun or shade. Can become invasive in rich soil, so grow in an out-of-the-way corner. Plant cuttings 3-4 inches below the surface and 8 inches apart, in rows 16 inches apart. Keep soil evenly moist throughout growing season. Crop can be harvested in 2-3 years. Harvest large roots in fall, after frost, leaving smaller roots behind for a later harvest. ONION SETS—Plant sets as soon as ground can be worked. Onions are frost resistant and thrive in cool weather. One pint of sets will plant about 25 feet at 1-2 inches deep, 3-4 inches apart. Fertilize twice: at planting time and again when plants are about 6 inches tall. Onions have shallow, easily damaged roots so cultivate carefully. Keep moisture level constant. When foliage begins to turn yellow, bend stems over—this stops growth and allows the bulbs to ripen. Pull away some of the soil and any mulch around the bulbs until they’re half exposed. When the leaves turn brown, pull bulbs from the soil and spread out to dry for a week or more. Then remove dirt and papery skins; cut tops 1 1/2 inches above the bulbs. Store bulbs in mesh bags in a cool, airy spot. Use bulbs with thick, 13
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wide necks first since they’re often the first to soften and spoil. RHUBARB—Plant in spring, spacing divisions 3 feet apart in rich soil well supplied with water. Position so crowns are 3-4 inches below soil surface. Water and cultivate regularly; feed generously the first year. Harvest stalks lightly the second year. After that, harvest early spring until early summer. Plants can be mowed, dug and divided in fall or spring. SHALLOTS—Plant sets early in light, very well-drained soil, 1-2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart. When foliage starts to wither, dig bulbs and cure 2-3 weeks. Store like onions. POTATOES—Many varieties of potatoes produce large seed with many growth buds called eyes. In order to achieve greater yields, these larger whole-seed potatoes (2 inches or more in diameter) may be cut into pieces. Be sure that each potato seed piece has at least one or two eyes, cut into sections and allow them to air dry at room temperature for 2-4 days prior to planting. Potatoes do best in well-drained, wellcultivated, rich soil. Dig a shallow trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. Place cut seed pieces in the trench 8-10 inches apart, and cover with 3 inches of
soil. Continue to mound soil about halfway up the stem of the plant as it grows. Keep rows weeded, but do not cultivate too deeply, and irrigate weekly during dry periods. Harvest young potatoes whenever tubers are large enough to eat, usually 7-8 weeks after planting. Do not dig up the entire plant. Instead, dig carefully around the plant and remove large tubers. The smaller tubers can continue to grow. Dig for winter storage when plant tops begin to dry. Take care not to bruise the skin. Dry for 2-3 hours, then store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Sprouts—Sprouts can be grown in a few different ways. If you are growing them with a sprouter, place a small amount of seeds in a jar and cover with enough water to cover seeds. Soak overnight. It is normal for the seeds to swell. Drain the water and rinse seeds; drain all excess water. Spread in a thin layer in the tray. Repeat rinsing and draining 2 times a day to prevent seed from turning sour/molding. Seeds may also be sown in a shallow dish or pot filled lightly with soil. Water if needed. As sprouts grow they may be cut with scissors for use. Sprouts also can be grown between two moistened paper towels. When sprouts are ready for eating (usually after 2-5 days), rinse off excess hulls and drain thoroughly. Store in plastic bags in the refrigerator.
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VEGETABLE PLANTS, TOMATOES AND PEPPERS—Vegetable seedlings may be planted as soon as they are received if the weather is cloudy and cool. Set the plants out in the early evening if it is hot and sunny. Plants may be potted and hardened off in a protected location for a week if conditions are overly cool or hot. Fill the planting holes with water and allow water to soak in—this provides roots with plenty of moisture to get plants off to a good start. Set the plants in the holes and fill soil in around them, firming lightly to eliminate air pockets. Leave a slight depression around each plant to collect and hold moisture. Water thoroughly when finished planting
and again when plants are about 6 inches tall. Onions have shallow, easily damaged roots so cultivate carefully. Keep moisture level constant. When foliage begins to turn yellow, bend stems over—this stops growth and allows the bulbs to ripen. Pull away some of the soil and any mulch around the bulbs until they’re half exposed. When the leaves turn brown, pull bulbs from the soil and spread out to dry for a week or more. Then remove dirt and papery skins; cut tops 1 1/2 inches above the bulbs. Store bulbs in mesh bags in a cool, airy spot. Use bulbs with thick, wide necks first since they’re often the first to soften and spoil.
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NOTES
Henry Field’s ®
Guarantee Henry Field wrote the guarantee we still honor today: “Your money’s worth or your money back.” If not completely satisfied, you’ll get new merchandise, a credit or a refund for the full purchase price—whichever you prefer. We honor this guarantee on plants and nursery stock for as long as you garden. Seeds and merchandise are guaranteed for one year.
Customer Service hours:
24 hours a day, 7 days a week 513-354-1495 P.O. Box 397, Aurora, IN 47001-0397 Online at HenryFields.com © 2011 Scarlet Tanager LLC, d/b/a Henry Field’s Seed & Nursery Co. All rights reserved. Henry Field’s trademarks are trademarks of Scarlet Tanager LLC.
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Printed in the U.S.A. HF-PG-S11
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