ReinventinG
manual destination House of World Cultures
Reinventing
BERLIN
Berlin remains Europe’s capital of cool. Here are 11 reasons why Words by Mary Holland
I
f you thought the kids in West Side Story had it bad, you clearly aren’t familiar with Berlin’s Eastside/Westside story. It’s no surprise that a city torn apart by war for most of the 20th century is steeped in so much history and culture. Unapologetic but very aware of its turbulent past, Berlin sits as the pop culture capital of Europe. With artists flocking to the city for its affordable living and an edgy urban setting, Berlin is about as conventional as a Wes Anderson film. From the austere tree-lined streets in the west, to the grey Communist blocks in the east and the hip city centre, Berlin is an unstoppable force of urban cool.
Where to stay ✭ Michelberger Set in Friedrichshain, which is pretty much as ‘east’ as you can get, you’ll find the incredibly hip Michelberger Hotel. You only need to visit its website to get a feel for what the hotel is like. A few steps away is The Arena (where loads of bands perform), the Eastside Gallery (the world’s largest outdoor gallery) and Karl Marx Avenue. Ask the annoyingly cool people at the front desk for their recommendations on restaurants and shops in the area. Warschauer Straße 39/40, 10243 Berlin. +4930-2977-8590, michelbergerhotel.com
✭ Casa Camper Situated within the city centre, in the former East District of Berlin, Casa Camper 32 GQ.co.za june 2013
has neat, functional rooms with views of the hippest shops, bars and restaurants in the city. If you’re up for exploring, you can rent a bike (so you feel like a true Berliner). If you prefer staying in, you can gorge on unlimited snacks, 24 hours a day. Weinmeisterstraße 1, 10178, Berlin. +4930-2000-3410, casacamper.com/berlin
✭ Schloss Hotel Home to the former Kaizer of Germany, the Schloss Hotel (set near a forest in the affluent former West District) is truly fit for a king. Although a train ride is necessary to get in to the city centre, there are more than enough five-star perks to keep you entertained. We’d suggest taking a walk in the Gruneweld (a nearby forest) where you’ll find a small castle tucked away on a lake, so beautiful you might want to let out a little yodel. Brahmstraße 10, 14193 Berlin. +4930-895840, schlosshotelberlin.com
manual destination Restaurants
Bars and clubs
✭ Burgermeister Set in a century-old men’s public toilet under the arches of the U-Bahn station, Burgermeister is where you’ll find the best burger in town (this is verified by locals). The guys who run the joint have burger-flipping down to an art. Whether it’s sit-down or takeaway they’ll deliver your meal in a couple of minutes. Although there aren’t many places to sit, grab yourself a beer, find a spot outside and enjoy the hustle and bustle of surrounding Kreuzberg. Oberbaumstraße 8, 10997 Berlin. +4930-2634-8764, burger-meister.de
Sony Center, Potsdamer Platz
Shopping
✭ Cookies & Cream Like all bars and clubs in Berlin, the trick is not to get there early. A tricky place to find, Cookies & Cream is set behind the service entrance of the Westin Grand. So if you find yourself next to dumpsters in a small alley and wonder where the hell you are, don’t be confused, keep going until you see a door lit by show lights - this marks the entrance to one of the most famous restaurants and clubs in town. And while Cookies nightclub is certainly worth a visit, don’t forget the restaurant upstairs, which serves gastronomic vegetarian food that will blow even a carnivore’s brain. Book in advance. Behrenstraße 55, 10117 Berlin. +49302749-2940, cookiescream.com
✭ The Kurfürstendamm Although the entire city is littered with an array of shops, the Kurfürstendamm has become known as the centre of shopping. Berlin’s very own Champs-Elysees, you’ll find a wide selection of high-end brands such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, as well as edgier stores including Urban Outfitters and All Saints.
✭ Wir Lieben Wurst No trip to Berlin is complete without trying a curry wurst. One of the tastiest things you’ll eat while visiting, a curry wurst - which consists of a German wurst sausage with tomato sauce, curried seasoning and slices of fresh baguette - is an ideal meal on the go. Although you’ll find many currywurst stands, we recommend Wir Lieben Wurst – Berlin’s artisanal version of the traditional curry wurst stand. ✭ Café Einstein It only seems right that you’d find Cafe Einstein in the former West district of Berlin. Tucked away on tree-lined street, Café Einstein is the kind of place that probably hasn’t changed in 50 years. With delicious breakfasts and lunches, and just about every morning paper you could read, Café Einstein is definitely worth a visit. If you don’t have much time, stop by for a mean cup of coffee. Kurfürstenstraße 58, 10785 Berlin. +4930-2639-190, cafeeinstein.com
✭ Paris Bar If you like hanging with the big shots, this French eatery is your place. Although we can’t guarantee you’ll bump into a celeb, we can guarantee that you’ll get delicious foie gras and lambchops. Kantstraße 152, 10623 Berlin. +4930-3138-052, parisbar.net 34 GQ.co.za june 2013
✭ Flohmarkt am Mauerpark Although you’re not going to find yourself a brand new pair of Paul Smith shoes here, you’ll find just about everything else. From bicycles to second-hand shoes and war memorabilia, Berlin’s biggest flea market is more of an experience than a shopping extravaganza. With hundreds of different shopping stalls and food stands that spill out onto a large field, this is where all the Berliners hang on a Sunday. There’s also loads of entertainment, from performances in the amphitheatre to live street art. Every Sunday from 8:00 - 18:00 Bernauer Straße 63-64, 13355 Berlin. +4917-6292-50021, mauerparkmarkt.de
✭>King Size Get there late. Like two-and-a-half hours late. If you think you’re arriving late - go back to your hotel bar, have a drink or three and then make your return. King Size Bar is a local favourite, and although you may not get why when you first enter, as it fills up you’ll realise it’s where all the cool kids kick it. Friedrichstraße 112b, 10117 Berlin. kingsizebar.de
Was is das? Mitte (between the East and the West) Mitte is considered Berlin’s city centre. Combine old city charm (and some of Berlin’s biggest landmarks) with a cool, cosmopolitan, urban setting. Charlottenburg The upscale district in the West. You’ll find austere, tree-lined streets with upmarket bars and five-star hotels. Kreuzberg Formerly known as the black sheep of West Berlin. Filled with graffiti and street art; it’s home to young and alternative folk. Prenzlauer Berg The up-and-coming east. The ‘greenest’ district, filled with outdoor markets, art galleries and cafes.
Reinventing
BERLIN
Berlin remains Europe’s capital of cool. Here are 11 reasons why Words by Mary Holland
I
f you thought the kids in West Side Story had it bad, you clearly aren’t familiar with Berlin’s Eastside/Westside story. It’s no surprise that a city torn apart by war for most of the 20th century is steeped in so much history and culture. Unapologetic but very aware of its turbulent past, Berlin sits as the pop culture capital of Europe. With artists flocking to the city for its affordable living and an edgy urban setting, Berlin is about as conventional as a Wes Anderson film. From the austere tree-lined streets in the west, to the grey Communist blocks in the east and the hip city centre, Berlin is an unstoppable force of urban cool.
Where to stay ✭ Michelberger Set in Friedrichshain, which is pretty much as ‘east’ as you can get, you’ll find the incredibly hip Michelberger Hotel. You only need to visit its website to get a feel for what the hotel is like. A few steps away is The Arena (where loads of bands perform), the Eastside Gallery (the world’s largest outdoor gallery) and Karl Marx Avenue. Ask the annoyingly cool people at the front desk for their recommendations on restaurants and shops in the area. Warschauer Straße 39/40, 10243 Berlin. +4930-2977-8590, michelbergerhotel.com
✭ Casa Camper Situated within the city centre, in the former East District of Berlin, Casa Camper 32 GQ.co.za june 2013
has neat, functional rooms with views of the hippest shops, bars and restaurants in the city. If you’re up for exploring, you can rent a bike (so you feel like a true Berliner). If you prefer staying in, you can gorge on unlimited snacks, 24 hours a day. Weinmeisterstraße 1, 10178, Berlin. +4930-2000-3410, casacamper.com/berlin
✭ Schloss Hotel Home to the former Kaizer of Germany, the Schloss Hotel (set near a forest in the affluent former West District) is truly fit for a king. Although a train ride is necessary to get in to the city centre, there are more than enough five-star perks to keep you entertained. We’d suggest taking a walk in the Gruneweld (a nearby forest) where you’ll find a small castle tucked away on a lake, so beautiful you might want to let out a little yodel. Brahmstraße 10, 14193 Berlin. +4930-895840, schlosshotelberlin.com
manual destination Restaurants
Bars and clubs
✭ Burgermeister Set in a century-old men’s public toilet under the arches of the U-Bahn station, Burgermeister is where you’ll find the best burger in town (this is verified by locals). The guys who run the joint have burger-flipping down to an art. Whether it’s sit-down or takeaway they’ll deliver your meal in a couple of minutes. Although there aren’t many places to sit, grab yourself a beer, find a spot outside and enjoy the hustle and bustle of surrounding Kreuzberg. Oberbaumstraße 8, 10997 Berlin. +4930-2634-8764, burger-meister.de
Sony Center, Potsdamer Platz
Shopping
✭ Cookies & Cream Like all bars and clubs in Berlin, the trick is not to get there early. A tricky place to find, Cookies & Cream is set behind the service entrance of the Westin Grand. So if you find yourself next to dumpsters in a small alley and wonder where the hell you are, don’t be confused, keep going until you see a door lit by show lights - this marks the entrance to one of the most famous restaurants and clubs in town. And while Cookies nightclub is certainly worth a visit, don’t forget the restaurant upstairs, which serves gastronomic vegetarian food that will blow even a carnivore’s brain. Book in advance. Behrenstraße 55, 10117 Berlin. +49302749-2940, cookiescream.com
✭ The Kurfürstendamm Although the entire city is littered with an array of shops, the Kurfürstendamm has become known as the centre of shopping. Berlin’s very own Champs-Elysees, you’ll find a wide selection of high-end brands such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, as well as edgier stores including Urban Outfitters and All Saints.
✭ Wir Lieben Wurst No trip to Berlin is complete without trying a curry wurst. One of the tastiest things you’ll eat while visiting, a curry wurst - which consists of a German wurst sausage with tomato sauce, curried seasoning and slices of fresh baguette - is an ideal meal on the go. Although you’ll find many currywurst stands, we recommend Wir Lieben Wurst – Berlin’s artisanal version of the traditional curry wurst stand. ✭ Café Einstein It only seems right that you’d find Cafe Einstein in the former West district of Berlin. Tucked away on tree-lined street, Café Einstein is the kind of place that probably hasn’t changed in 50 years. With delicious breakfasts and lunches, and just about every morning paper you could read, Café Einstein is definitely worth a visit. If you don’t have much time, stop by for a mean cup of coffee. Kurfürstenstraße 58, 10785 Berlin. +4930-2639-190, cafeeinstein.com
✭ Paris Bar If you like hanging with the big shots, this French eatery is your place. Although we can’t guarantee you’ll bump into a celeb, we can guarantee that you’ll get delicious foie gras and lambchops. Kantstraße 152, 10623 Berlin. +4930-3138-052, parisbar.net 34 GQ.co.za june 2013
✭ Flohmarkt am Mauerpark Although you’re not going to find yourself a brand new pair of Paul Smith shoes here, you’ll find just about everything else. From bicycles to second-hand shoes and war memorabilia, Berlin’s biggest flea market is more of an experience than a shopping extravaganza. With hundreds of different shopping stalls and food stands that spill out onto a large field, this is where all the Berliners hang on a Sunday. There’s also loads of entertainment, from performances in the amphitheatre to live street art. Every Sunday from 8:00 - 18:00 Bernauer Straße 63-64, 13355 Berlin. +4917-6292-50021, mauerparkmarkt.de
✭>King Size Get there late. Like two-and-a-half hours late. If you think you’re arriving late - go back to your hotel bar, have a drink or three and then make your return. King Size Bar is a local favourite, and although you may not get why when you first enter, as it fills up you’ll realise it’s where all the cool kids kick it. Friedrichstraße 112b, 10117 Berlin. kingsizebar.de
Was is das? Mitte (between the East and the West) Mitte is considered Berlin’s city centre. Combine old city charm (and some of Berlin’s biggest landmarks) with a cool, cosmopolitan, urban setting. Charlottenburg The upscale district in the West. You’ll find austere, tree-lined streets with upmarket bars and five-star hotels. Kreuzberg Formerly known as the black sheep of West Berlin. Filled with graffiti and street art; it’s home to young and alternative folk. Prenzlauer Berg The up-and-coming east. The ‘greenest’ district, filled with outdoor markets, art galleries and cafes.
