ridge. Boris Dedeshko, Gennady Durov, and Denis Urubko made
P ik E ig h t W om en C lim bers, w est face; P ik B ayancol, so u th e a s t ridge; P ik K aza k h sta n , so u th e a st ridge. Boris Dedeshko, Gennady Durov, and Denis Urubko made the second ascent of Pik Eight Women Climbers (Pik Vosni Alpinistok or M ramornaya Stena Yuzhnaya, 6 ,1 10m ) via the west face. The only previous ascent of the m ountain, indeed the only previous attem pt, took place
on September 6, 1974, when Kaza khs Yevgeniy Ilyinskiy, N. Ivanov, N. Shevchenko, Vadim Smirnov, and Boris Solomatov (leader) climbed the south ridge during a traverse from Pik 6,261m to M ramom aya Stena. On August 19 Dedeshko, Durov, and Urubko left a camp at 4,700m on the glacier below the face, climbed snow, ice, and mixed ground on the lower wall to a bivouac at 5,250m and the next day climbed through a difficult rocky barrier to reach a snow/ice ram p leading up left toward the summ it. They bivouacked at 5,750m and reached the top on the 22nd (33 pitches, 6A; F6a+ M 5). Prior to this ascent the climbers acclimatized by climbing two new routes. On August 12, Dedeshko and Durov made the first ascent of the elegant southeast ridge (5A ) of Bayancol (5 ,68 1m ), while on the following day Urubko and Kolbin climbed the southeast ridge of Pik Kazakhstan (5 ,60 0m ) at 4B. Bayancol, Kaza khstan, and Eight Women Climbers lie on the northern rim of the
N orth Inylchek Glacier (north of Khan Tengri), on the ridge running west from M ram ornaya Stena (M arble Wall, 6,400m ). This area of the N orth Inylchek is popular for the norm al route up Khan Tengri, but almost no one tries routes on neighboring m oun tains. Eight Women Clim-bers Peak was named as a tribute to a Soviet female expedition, mem bers of which were caught in a storm and died high on Pik Lenin’s Lipkin route in August 1974. From notes p ro v id ed by D e n is U r u b k o , K azakhstan
on September 6, 1974, when Kaza khs Yevgeniy Ilyinskiy, N. Ivanov, N. Shevchenko, Vadim Smirnov, and Boris Solomatov (leader) climbed the south ridge during a traverse from Pik 6,261m to M ramom aya Stena. On August 19 Dedeshko, Durov, and Urubko left a camp at 4,700m on the glacier below the face, climbed snow, ice, and mixed ground on the lower wall to a bivouac at 5,250m and the next day climbed through a difficult rocky barrier to reach a snow/ice ram p leading up left toward the summ it. They bivouacked at 5,750m and reached the top on the 22nd (33 pitches, 6A; F6a+ M 5). Prior to this ascent the climbers acclimatized by climbing two new routes. On August 12, Dedeshko and Durov made the first ascent of the elegant southeast ridge (5A ) of Bayancol (5 ,68 1m ), while on the following day Urubko and Kolbin climbed the southeast ridge of Pik Kazakhstan (5 ,60 0m ) at 4B. Bayancol, Kaza khstan, and Eight Women Climbers lie on the northern rim of the
N orth Inylchek Glacier (north of Khan Tengri), on the ridge running west from M ram ornaya Stena (M arble Wall, 6,400m ). This area of the N orth Inylchek is popular for the norm al route up Khan Tengri, but almost no one tries routes on neighboring m oun tains. Eight Women Clim-bers Peak was named as a tribute to a Soviet female expedition, mem bers of which were caught in a storm and died high on Pik Lenin’s Lipkin route in August 1974. From notes p ro v id ed by D e n is U r u b k o , K azakhstan
